Databank Botato.csv

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"""How To Grow Potatoes In A Greenhouse

You can easily grow potatoes in a greenhouse so you can harvest your favorite varieties all year round. Plus, growing potatoes in a greenhouse, hoop house, or cold frame not only keeps potato plants safe from frost but also numerous pests. You can grow potatoes in raised beds, grow bags, or pots, so you can even do it in small spaces.

To grow potatoes in a greenhouse, you’ll want to first find seed potatoes of your preferred variety, then decide on a location. You can grow potatoes in a raised bed, but any container that’s at least 24 inches tall and about 18 inches in diameter will do.

When done right, you can get continuous harvests of potatoes that taste better than anything you can find in the store. So are you ready to get your hands dirty and learn how to grow potatoes in a greenhouse? Read on!

Quick overview of growing potatoes in a greenhouse
Type: cold-season crop
Time from seed to harvest: 80-100 days
Germination temp: 4°C
Time until first emergence: 14-28 days
Best temp to grow: 18-21°C
Height: 18-36 in
Spread: 18-36 in
Grow from seed: 7-8 in deep, 10-12 in apart in rows 36 in apart;
Companions: cabbage, corn, chives, cilantro, leeks
Keep away from: tomatoes, eggplants, fennel, pumpkins, root vegetables
The benefits of growing potatoes in a greenhouse
Garden potatoes are typically planted a few weeks before the last frost date, or when the soil is at least 7-12°C. In most regions, this is usually around April. But in warmer climates, potatoes are often planted in the fall or even winter for a spring harvest!

Because they are frost-tender and don’t love extreme heat, potatoes grown outside are limited to the seasons. In a greenhouse, however, you can control variables such as light and temperature, allowing you to extend the growing season. This way you can easily have several harvests of potatoes in a single year, or more!

You can grow potatoes in the winter
There’s nothing quite like a freshly-harvested potato. Like tomatoes, they taste remarkably better fresh than they do after weeks or months of storage.

In winter, grocery stores typically only stock a handful of potato varieties that have been kept in storage since the previous season or have been imported from abroad. With a greenhouse, you can plant potatoes using a method called succession planting, planting potatoes in intervals so you can have regular, extended harvests!

Depending on your climate, you can grow potatoes this way in the winter even in an unheated greenhouse. Even in colder climates, you can continue growing your potatoes through the winter as long as you supplement with some heat and light.

How to pick the right variety of potato to grow
Did you know that there are thousands of varieties of potatoes? Historically, they’ve been cultivated throughout the Andes, particularly in Peru, but over the last two centuries they’ve become one of the top food crops in the world.

Grocery stores typically only carry a handful of the most popular potatoes, such as Russets or Burbanks. When growing potatoes at home or in your greenhouse, you can choose from many different kinds of potatoes, which is both an exciting and daunting opportunity.

To make it a little easier, we’ll help you understand the three main kinds of potatoes, and some of our favorite varieties to grow in the greenhouse!

First early potatoes
First early potatoes are also known as “new” potatoes because they’re typically the first ones to be harvested. These varieties are usually planted a few weeks before the average last frost date because they can tolerate a light frost. 

For that reason, first early potatoes are a particularly good option for growing in a greenhouse during the winter, especially an unheated one.

Our favorite varieties of first early potatoes to grow in the greenhouse include: Yukon Gold, Dark Red Norland, and Purple Viking.

Second early potatoes
As suggested, second early potatoes, or mid-season potatoes, take a few more weeks to mature than first early potatoes. They taste best when just harvested, so they’re a great option to grow at home for year-round eating.

An often-overlooked advantage of growing first early or second early potatoes is that they tend to be less prone to common potato diseases, because the potatoes are harvested before the disease has had a chance to take hold.

Our favorite varieties of second early potatoes to grow in the greenhouse include: Kennebec, Red Chieftain, and Gold Rush.

Maincrop potatoes
Maincrop potatoes, or late-season potatoes, take the longest to mature and set good-sized potatoes. Due to the longer growing season, these varieties tend to be better for long-term storage and are more often found in grocery stores.

Maincrop potatoes are a good option for greenhouse growing if you have a short growing season but would still like to grow some good storage potatoes. These potatoes tend to be great options for baking, mashing, or frying.

Our favorite varieties of maincrop potatoes to grow in the greenhouse include: Burbank Russet, French Fingerling, and German Butterball.

How to plant potatoes in a greenhouse
Depending on your greenhouse setup, you have several different options for planting potatoes. You can either choose to grow potatoes in pots or raised beds, and both have some distinct advantages.

Planting in pots vs. raised beds
Planting potatoes in pots or planters makes growing potatoes easy. When placed in your greenhouse, your potatoes are safe from many animals, pests, and diseases, but also give you the flexibility of moving them around.

While any pot at least 24 inches deep and 12-18 inches wide will be able to accommodate 1-2 potato plants, you can also find many specialized potato planters. Compared to other pots, these planters have openings that allow for observing your potatoes as they develop and harvesting “new” potatoes without digging.

It’s important that the container you choose is deep enough to add more soil as the plants grow in a process called hilling. This protects your potatoes from the sunlight and results in a better harvest.

While growing potatoes in a container is easy, you can also plant your potatoes in raised beds with no issues. Just make sure that the bed is deep enough for the roots to develop properly, and that you have room to hill the potato plants several times through their growing season.

Planting preparation
When planting potatoes in a raised bed, you can plant them just as you would if you were farming an open field. Keep in mind that potatoes thrive in loose, well-drained soil, so the beds should have compost or high quality potting soil. Potatoes are also high feeders, so it’s a good idea to mix in some organic fertilizer at the time of planting.

If choosing to plant in containers, you might consider choosing a planter bag made of fabric or sturdy plastic. These flexible bags are great for growing potatoes because they allow the spuds to grow relatively freely.

Whichever method you choose, it’s good to chit your potatoes first. This process is simple: just set the seed potatoes out in a dark spot in your greenhouse to allow them to start developing some sprouts on the eyes!

Lastly, because potatoes are sensitive to freezing temperatures, it’s important to either heat your greenhouse or use frost covers if there are indications that the temperature may fall below freezing.

How to plant seed potatoes
Planting potatoes is incredibly easy. Just keep these tips in mind:

Make sure to only use certified seed potatoes that are disease-resistant and haven’t been treated with sprout inhibitors.
Examine the seed potatoes thoroughly before planting and cut off all symptoms of rot.
Larger seed potatoes can be cut in multiple pieces that have at least 1-2 eyes. Seed potatoes smaller than an egg should be planted whole.
Allow at least 24 hours for cut exteriors to harden before sowing, or the seed potato may rot in moist soil before it has a chance to sprout.
Some gardeners allow the seed potatoes to grow sprouts before planting by leaving them in a dark and warm place 16-29°C. If you do this, be careful not to break the sprouts off when handling.
When planting in a raised bed, plant seed potatoes about 12 inches apart (eye side up!) and space the rows about 3 feet apart. Cover the potatoes with approximately 3-4 inches of soil and water well.

How to care for potatoes in a greenhouse
To ensure a good crop of potatoes, you can’t just leave them alone and forget about them for 4 months. Luckily, it doesn’t take a lot of effort to care for potato plants.

Hilling up potato plants
Unlike most plants, potato plants will develop new roots (and tubers) when the stem gets covered up in a process called “hilling up.”

There are a few reasons why hilling up is important for potatoes. First, if potatoes are exposed to daylight, they will start to turn green. While the chlorophyll isn’t dangerous, it indicates the presence of solanine, a toxic compound that can cause headaches or nausea when consumed.

Another purpose of hilling potatoes is to improve the harvest, as more potatoes will develop along the submerged stem.

The best time to start hilling is when your plants attain a height of 8-12 inches:

Add more soil or compost along both sides of the stem in a hill formation. When growing in containers, simply add more soil to the pot.
Proceed to “earth up” every time the plants are at least 4 inches above the soil. If you are planting in a container, continue hilling until you are up to 2 inches from the top of your container.
Hilling up has the added benefit of preventing weed problems, cooling the soil, and preserving moisture. At the end of the season, you can reuse the soil in the garden or add it to your compost pile.

Water requirements
Your potatoes will rot in the soil if they are overwatered, but that doesn’t mean they should sit dry, either. Make sure to water your potato plants regularly, especially when tuber-formation begins. Remember that soil in containers dries out faster than in raised beds, so be prepared to water more often.

Maintain a moist (but not soggy) soil when the potato plants begin sprouting until a few more weeks after blossoming. Avoid watering too much in the first few weeks after planting to avoid the seed potatoes from rotting or developing disease.

It is best to use rainwater from a water barrel instead of tap water. Tap water usually has a neutral to high pH or alkaline and potatoes grow best in slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.5. They can develop scab in more alkaline soils.

Soil requirements
Potatoes are heavy feeders, so make sure to plant them in rich soil with organic fertilizer mixed in. Potatoes grow best in an acidic soil between 5 and 5.5, in more alkaline soils potatoes tend to develop scab. You can test your soil pH easily at home, and amend if needed with sulfur or pine needle mulch.

Another tip to get near-perfect skins for your potatoes is to put the compost into a shredder to make a fine blend.

Common potato pests and diseases
One of the most common issues with home-grown potatoes is the development of scab, or rough patches on the skins that are tough and ugly. Potato scab is usually caused by high pH levels in the soil, which can be amended if necessary.

Every potato grower’s worst fear is potato blight, which usually emerges after a period of warm, wet weather. If your greenhouse is particularly warm and humid, you’ll have to keep an eye out for signs of blight. You can grow early potatoes to further reduce the risk, but make sure to always use fresh soil and rotate crops in raised beds.

Aphids are small pests that may feed on foliage and spread viral diseases. They extract fluids from the leaves and stems of your potato plants, which may cause serious damage. Insecticidal soaps are effective at controlling infestations, or you can manually remove the bugs with a jet of water.

Colorado potato beetles can be handpicked or be eaten by birds. If you see more of them, you can apply an organic pesticide at dawn or dusk to prevent hurting beneficial insects.

How to harvest your greenhouse-grown potatoes
Potatoes, especially those of the earlier varieties, take between 80-100 days to mature. Cut off the water supply about a week before the anticipated harvest date. This helps to ensure the soil in your greenhouse or planter is dry enough for harvesting.

After your potato plants start to flower, you can collect some early “new” potatoes. The plant heads will die back eventually, at which point the whole crop can be harvested. Dig gently with a garden fork to avoid puncturing the tubers.

For potatoes grown in containers, simply empty out the soil onto the ground or in a wheelbarrow and separate your potatoes by hand. Ensure you harvest all tubers no more than a few weeks after the vines die back so that the tubers don’t rot in the ground.

Harvest your potatoes on a dry day to simplify your job. A wet soil could mean that you will have to wait until the potatoes are air-dried before placing them into bags or boxes.

Storing your potatoes
Greenhouse-grown potatoes are best eaten the day they’re harvested, but they can be stored if needed. Store potatoes in a cool dry place preferably around 7-16°C for up to a couple of weeks. This will let their skins cure and help them last longer.

Brush off any remaining soil after curing. Don’t wash the potatoes unless you are ready to cook them. Washing them may reduce their shelf life. Place them in a dark and humid place with a temperature of around 3-4°C.

Also, don’t put your potatoes near apples to prevent them from spoiling. Apples contain ethylene gas which makes them ripen faster. Don’t refrigerate your potatoes.""",
"HOW TO GET EARLY POTATOES IN THE GREENHOUSE

At one time the potato was something you would feed the pigs with, but today it is almost like gold, and we fight so valiantly to get the gold and be among the first to get it. You can easily join this fight when you have a greenhouse.

 

The easiest way to cultivate potatoes in your greenhouse is to use a container. It does not matter whether it is an old rain boot (which by the way can be quite decorative), a large biscuit tin, a plastic bag or a bucket as long as there is a drain in it so the water can drain away.

 

HOW TO DO IT
 

Choose an early sort

There are several hundred different varieties of potatoes, but you need to get hold of those that are the earliest to crop.

I will recommend: “Solist”, “Hamlet”, “Frieslander” and “Sofia”

 

Seed potatoes or your own potatoes

You can use your own potatoes from your garden or table potatoes you have bought. If you choose to use your own from the garden, you must make sure that they are free of diseases. If they are not, they can infect your new potatoes. You can also buy seed potatoes which are not infected with any viruses, but they may have other plant diseases so check that they are healthy-looking before you buy them. Seed potatoes should have a medium size.

 

Pre-germination

To pre-germinate means that you prepare the potatoes for sprouting. Sometimes the potatoes have already begun this process when you buy them. There are two ways.

 

The first method says that you can place them somewhere dark and with a temperature of 22 degrees for 14 days. When the shoots are 5 cm long, they are moved to somewhere with more light at a temperature of 15 degrees. Hereafter they are ready to be put outside after a couple of days.

 

A more common method is to place them somewhere with light at 16 degrees Celsius for 6 weeks. This makes the shoots thick and they do not easily break. But both methods work, and if you want, you can try both and see what works best for you.

 

Transplant in buckets

When your potatoes have been through the pre-germination process, you can transplant them to buckets.

The benefit of this is that you can take out the buckets in case the potatoes are not ready when you are about to transplant tomatoes. Tomatoes and potatoes together are not a good match.

 

The first thing I do is to fill the buckets with soil. Then a lump of sheep wool (not a must), the potato on top of the wool and then soil again. Wool is good to store water even when it is being decomposed to fertiliser.

Tips

Boe Jørgensen, an experienced Danish horticulturist, shares the method he uses when cultivating in the greenhouse.

 

First week in March

Place the pre-germinated potatoes in milk or juice cartons without a bottom and with some topsoil the first week in March and place them in a plastic bucket filled with 5 cm peat.
Plant the potato in the middle of the carton with soil on top and under it.
Soak the soil in the carton and place the bucket somewhere inside the house where the temperature is between 15-20 degrees.
The peat in the bucket should always be fairly moist.
 

Between 25th and 28th March

Now the potatoes can be transplanted to the greenhouse. This is done in 12 litres buckets with compost. Remember to irrigate. (Boe has an automatic irrigation system). Especially while the potatoes are forming tubers, they should never be in need of water. Potatoes are not frost resistant so if there is a chance of days or nights with frost they must be covered. You can for instance use bubble wrap. One time Boe had to use a warming cable. Alternatively, you can use a greenhouse heater. Should they get damaged by the frost, then the buds will start coming up again, but this will delay the project.

Potatoes are ready to be harvested 15th May.

 

Duration

From pre-germination to transplantation 5-6 weeks
From planting to harvesting 80-100 days

 

The potato sort determines the usage

The potatoes that most of us know are the potatoes called table potatoes.

As previously mentioned, there are many potato varieties. And some sorts are more suitable for mash or backed potatoes compared to those you use for boiling or roasted potatoes. If you make backed potatoes, it is best if they are not too firm. And if it is for mashed potatoes, they must be able to become mushy after they are boiled.",
"What are the Ideal Conditions for Greenhouse Tomatoes?
Tomatoes grow in relatively warm temperatures, making them the perfect greenhouse crop. Compared to outdoor tomato cultivation, growing in a controlled greenhouses increases yields and quality, reduces pests and diseases, and increases the growing season.
Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables (well, fruit…) in the world. So, it’s no surprise that they’re one of the most common crops in commercial horticulture. In fact, in 2020, over 185 million kgs were grown globally, on over 5 million hectares.

Tomato plants have a relatively short growing season, contrasted by a high demand year-round. Which is one of the main reasons growers around the world choose to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse.

The ability to control the temperature, humidity level, and lighting, allow growers to provide ideal growing conditions throughout the year. In most of the world, this wouldn’t be possible without a controlled environment.

Optimal Growing Conditions for Tomato Crops
Greenhouse cultivation has many benefits, but not without challenges. Cultivating tomatoes in a closed environment requires growers to create the optimal growing conditions, rather than rely on the weather.

This guide will help you provide the ideal tomato growing conditions. It’s important to remember, however, that specific conditions may differ between different tomato varieties.

Ideal Temperature for Tomato Greenhouse
Maintaining the right temperature is one of the most basic functions of greenhouse, regardless of how technological or advanced it is.

Providing optimal temperatures allows the plants to take in and break down nutrients as efficiently as possible. This leads to faster growth and fruit development. If conditions are too cold, or too warm, the plants will experience stress, which affects growth, as well as quality. In a temperature-controlled environment, there’s no reason to reach temperatures outside of the ideal range.

The ideal temperature for tomato cultivation is between 21-27°C (70-82°F). This range is also best during pollination. These temperatures are considered optimal for day time. During the night, tomato crops may enjoy lower temperatures, reaching 16-18°C (62-64°F).

Tomato plants grow best within this range, meaning they will exhibit the quickest development, largest yields, and highest fruit quality. However, depending on the variety, they may be able to grow well between 15-32°C (59-89°F).

The ideal temperature to germinate tomato seeds is between 18-29°C (65-85°F).

Ideal Temperatures for Tomato Cultivation:
Day time – 21-27°C (70-82°F)
Night time – 16-18°C (62-64°F)
Seed germination – 18-29°C (65-85°F)

How to Maintain Optimal Temperatures for Tomatoes
Maintaining the right temperature for tomatoes differs from greenhouse to greenhouse. Some greenhouses are located in warmer climates than others. So, while most greenhouses require heating, some actually need cooling to reach the ideal range.

You can use ducts, heat pumps, boilers, chillers, HVAC, or other forms of air conditioning depending on your local climate.

Ideal Humidity for Tomato Greenhouse
Humidity, like temperature, has a major impact on tomato plants’ growth, development, yield and quality. In order to reach full potential, it’s important to maintain the right relative humidity level, or VPD range.

Outside of the ideal range, plants will struggle to perform physiological tasks, such as taking in nutrients or performing photosynthesis.

When humidity is too high, the tomato plants won’t be able to evaporate water through their stomata. This stops them from being able to take in more water and nutrients from the soil, inhibiting development.

Low humidity, on the other hand, will lead to water stress. In this case, the stomata close, in order to retain water. This has a similar effect, in which the plant shuts down important processes, slowing down growth and development.

It’s also important to note that many common diseases and mildews develop in high humidity, including botrytis and powdery mildew. So, maintaining ideal humidity levels also protects against diseases and reduces crop loss.

The optimal relative humidity level for tomatoes is between 60-85% RH. However, you can improve growth further by dialing in different relative humidity set points for night and day.

During the day, tomato plants may enjoy higher humidity levels of 80-85% RH. However, during the night, when the plants are less active, humidity levels of 65-75% are ideal.

The ideal relative humidity level for pollination is around 70%. In higher humidity, pollen may stick together, making it harder to disperse. In lower humidity, the plants’ stigma tends to dry out, reducing its ability to collect pollen.

In terms of VPD, the ideal range for tomatoes is generally between 0.5-0.8 kPa. However, higher VPD levels may be better during later developmental stages, such as flowering. In these stages optimal VPD levels can reach 1.2 kPa.

Ideal Relative Humidity & VPD for Tomato Cultivation:
Day time – 60-85% RH
Night time – 65-75% RH
Pollination – 70% RH
VPD – 0.5-1.2 kPa
How to Maintain Optimal Humidity for Tomatoes
It’s important to note that tomato crops, like all plants, release water vapor. So, in fact, they increase the humidity levels around them. In a closed environment, this will inevitably lead to high humidity.

Humidity is a complex issue. There are numerous factors that impact it. So it may be difficult to predict relative humidity levels at all times, throughout the growing space. Some factors that directly affect humidity include temperatures, grow lights, irrigation systems and airflow.

In most cases, greenhouse growers will need to reduce humidity, rather than increase it. There are two main methods to do so – through heating and ventilation, or through dehumidification.

Heating and venting is the traditional way greenhouse operators deal with humidity. It involves opening up windows and vents, in order to let the humid air out.

However, releasing air from inside and introducing outdoor air affects the conditions inside. In most cases, the air outside is cooler, meaning it lowers the temperature inside the greenhouse. That means you need more heating to compensate for the heat loss.

Heating and venting may be useful and even efficient when weather outside is fair. However, this method is highly inefficient in cold, humid, or rainy conditions, requiring a lot of additional heating just to maintain temperatures. Additionally, this method might not work in high humidity or rain, leaving growers with no solution.

So, in most climates, the only way to fully control humidity and ensure ideal conditions, is to use dedicated dehumidifiers. Dehumidification systems that are designed for greenhouse use provide the most comprehensive and energy efficient way to control humidity. In fact, using DryGair has been found to save an average of 50% on total energy consumption, compared to ventilation.

Use Air Circulation to Further Improve Conditions
Another important part of humidity control is air flow. While maintaining an overall ideal humidity level is crucial, conditions can vary throughout the greenhouse. Most importantly, humidity may be higher between densely placed plants, or inside the foliage.

These pockets of humid air are known as microclimates. They can be detrimental to tomato plants, slowing down growth and leading to disease outbreaks. This is especially problematic with grown tomato plants, due to the high amounts of foliage.

Different types of tomato crops may be more at risk from this issue, such as determinate tomatoes with many side shoots. However, indeterminate varieties aren’t risk-free, and still require comprehensive humidity control.

Maintaining constant air movement helps disperse these microclimates. But not all airflow is equally effective.

Air circulation is a type of airflow in which the air is circulated throughout the entire space. As opposed to simple horizontal or vertical fans, air circulation doesn’t create multiple competing airflow directions. Rather, it creates cohesive air movement. This doesn’t just disperse humid microclimates, but also creates uniform conditions throughout the entire space.

All DryGair units include a patented air circulation module that ensures ideal conditions at all points in the greenhouse. This is a critical part of tomato cultivation, significantly reducing common disease outbreaks, such as botrytis.

Additional Tips for Greenhouse Tomato Cultivation
Creating ideal growing conditions is key to producing large yields of high-quality tomatoes.

However, there are additional things you can do to further improve growth, prevent diseases, and save money by reducing energy costs.

Avoid Wet Surfaces
Some of the most common molds and mildews require water in order to develop. So, the most effective way to avoid these detrimental diseases is by avoiding the presence of water in your greenhouse.

There are two ways in which free water reaches the greenhouse. First, is through irrigation. When plants are watered from above, some of the water remains on the leaves and fruit. Under these conditions, disease development and spreading are very likely.

To prevent plants from getting wet, water or add the nutrient solution straight to the soil or potting mix.

The second way in which water appears in the greenhouse is through high humidity. When relative humidity reaches 100%, water starts to condense on various surfaces, including railings, equipment, and even on the plants themselves.

However, proper humidity control and air circulation prevent this condensation from occurring.

Keep Space Between Plants
High humidity and wet plants become increasingly problematic the more crowded the greenhouse is. When plants overlap, they prevent air from flowing between the leaves and increase the amount of moisture within the foliage. This makes it incredibly difficult to maintain ideal humidity levels between the leaves, where it matters most.

So, in order to be able to control conditions, it’s important to have enough space between plants.

Of course, this can work both ways. Proper dehumidification reduces the overall humidity level and provides powerful air circulation, allowing you to decrease the space between plants. It’s all about creating the right balance for your growing facility.",
"How Long Does it Take to Grow Tomatoes?

We’re sometimes asked how long it takes to grow tomatoes. It’s a good question, so we thought we’d take the opportunity to answer it here. With a Click & Grow smart garden, you can produce a mini tomato harvest starting from 98 days after planting.


In this article we’ll look at some key things to remember when growing tomatoes indoors and outdoors.

Growing tomatoes in a smart indoor garden

If this is your first time growing Click & Grow mini tomatoes, here’s a quick timeline of what to expect at each growth stage. A Click & Grow mini tomato plant pod contains pre-gardened tomato seeds. The optimum indoor room temperature for growing mini tomatoes is 68°F – 95°F.


7 - 21 days: When sprouts appear, thin your tomato seedlings to one per pod. This will help your plant get the space, light and nutrients it needs.


22 - 39 days: Stake tomato plants when they’re young. It will help them grow upright and bear the weight of their fruit later on.


40 - 60 days: You’ll start to notice yellow flowers on your plant. Be sure to pollinate them by shaking the plant to mimic a bee. Alternatively, use your index finger or a small brush to transfer pollen from one blossom to another.


61 - 72 days: Don’t be alarmed if you notice yellow petals falling off. Not every flower produces fruit but you’ll be rewarded with some delicious tomatoes later on.


73 - 89 days: Around this time your plant will produce tomatoes that look green. They won’t turn red until they reach maturity.


90 - 110 days: Your plant will start to produce beautiful ripe tomatoes. Once they’re red, they’re ready to eat, although the taste becomes even sweeter if you let them continue to grow for another 1-2 weeks.


Enjoy every bite knowing your Click and Grow Mini tomatoes have 2.5 times more antioxidative activity and 2 times more lycopene than any other type of tomato! 


For more plant tips, be sure to download the Click & Grow mobile app. Simply register your smart garden and plant on the app and we’ll send you tips to guide you through each stage of your plant’s life cycle.


Growing tomatoes outdoors

Growing tomatoes outdoors is a little more complicated and there are a few things to keep in mind. After transplanting young plants to their final growing spot, it usually takes anywhere from 60 days to more than 100 days before you can harvest your tomatoes.


Before growing varieties of tomatoes outside, the first thing to do is make sure you live in a tomato-friendly climate. Tomatoes grow best when the temperature is between 65°F and 85°F during the day. They stop growing if the temperature reaches above 95°F. If you live somewhere with a short growing season, it may be worth starting your plants indoors and transplanting them when the weather warms up.


Click & Grow smart gardens (particularly the Smart Garden 9), are suitable for pre-growing tomato seedlings indoors. You can then plant them outdoors when they’re ready to move out. We offer experimental pods which enable you to do just that. For instance, you can pre-grow tomatoes in your indoor garden during spring and later plant them in a greenhouse once it’s warm enough.


Two of the most popular tomatoes to grow are globe tomatoes and cherry tomatoes. Globe tomatoes are the most common type of tomato - deep red and full sized. Cherry tomatoes are their miniature, bite-sized counterparts.

When researching which tomatoes to plant, it’s also worth noting the difference between determinate tomatoes and indeterminate tomatoes. Determinate tomato plants stop growing at a certain height, whereas indeterminate varieties continue to grow and produce tomatoes throughout the growing season.


Tomato plants are usually started indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost date for your area. Transplant them outdoors when the soil reaches about 60°F.


Tomatoes require soil that’s well drained and rich in nutrients. The best tomatoes are still grown in traditional ways by people who understand what they're doing, so if you're trying this for the first time, don’t be shy to ask around and see if there are some experienced vegetable gardeners who will mentor you. 


Here are some quick tips for getting started:


Choose a spot where tomatoes will get at least 8 hours of sun every day.

Prepare the soil by digging it up, removing rocks, weeds and roots and adding compost to it. Add organic fertilizer too if you want to increase the yield of your tomato plants.

Spread the seeds out on top of the soil, about 1 inch apart from each corner to corner.

Water your seeds every day until they sprout.

Watch as your tomato seedlings grow up from the ground. 

Nutrition

Did you know that tomatoes are made up of about 95% water? They’re undeniably low in carbs. The bulk of their carbohydrates are made up of simple sugars and insoluble fibers. 


Tomatoes are also a great source of dietary fiber. An average sized tomato provides you with 1.5 grams of fiber. In addition to that, tomatoes are natural sources of vitamin C, vitamin K, potassium and folate.


Studies suggest that tomatoes may improve heart health. An example of this is how tomato products can fight inflammation and signs of oxidative stress. There’s also research that suggests tomatoes promote skin health. For instance, tomato-based foods that are rich in lycopene may protect against sunburn.",
"General Advice
Potatoes always do best in full sun. They are aggressively rooting plants, and we find that they will produce the best crop when planted in a light, loose, well-drained soil. Potatoes prefer a slightly acid soil with a PH of 5.0 to 7.0. Fortunately potatoes are very adaptable and will almost always produce a respectable crop, even when the soil conditions and growing seasons are less than perfect.

Always keep your potato patch weed-free for best results. Potatoes should be rotated in the garden, never being grown in the same spot until there has been a 3-4 year absence of potatoes.

When to Plant Potatoes 
Potatoes may be planted as soon as the ground can be worked in the early spring, but keep soil temperatures in mind. Potato plants will not begin to grow until the soil temperature has reached 45 degrees F. The soil should be moist, but not water-logged.

Potatoes can tolerate a light frost, but you should provide some frost protection for the plants if you know that a hard, late season freeze is coming. If you want to extend storage times, and have a long growing season, you can plant a second crop as late as June 15 and harvest the potatoes as late as possible.

Cutting Potatoes Before Planting
A week or two before your planting date, set your seed potatoes in an area where they will be exposed to light and temperatures between 60-70 degrees F. This will begin the sprouting process. A day or two before planting, use a sharp, clean knife to slice the larger seed potatoes into smaller pieces. Each piece should be approximately 2 inches square, and must contain at least 1 or 2 eyes or buds. Plant smaller potatoes whole. A good rule of thumb is to plant potatoes whole if they are smaller in size than a golf ball. In a day or so your seed will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help prevent rotting.

Planting Potatoes in the Garden
We find that potatoes are best grown in rows. To begin with, dig a trench that is 6-8 inches deep. Plant each piece of potato (cut side down, with the eyes pointing up) every 12-15 inches, with the rows spaced 3 feet apart. If your space is limited or if you would like to grow only baby potatoes, you can decrease the spacing between plants.

To begin with only fill the trench in with 4 inches of soil. Let the plants start to grow and then continue to fill in the trench and even mound the soil around the plants as they continue to grow. Prior to planting, always make sure to cultivate the soil one last time. This will remove any weeds and will loosen the soil and allow the plants to become established more quickly.

How to Water Potatoes 
Keep your potato vines well watered throughout the summer, especially during the period when the plants are flowering and immediately following the flowering stage. During this flowering period the plants are creating their tubers and a steady water supply is crucial to good crop outcome. Potatoes do well with 1-2 inches of water or rain per week. When the foliage turns yellow and begins to die back, discontinue watering. This will help start curing the potatoes for harvest time.

When to Harvesting Potatoes
Baby potatoes typically can be harvested 2-3 weeks after the plants have finished flowering. Gently dig around the plants to remove potatoes for fresh eating, being careful not to be too intrusive. Try to remove the biggest new potatoes and leave the smaller ones in place so they can continue to grow. Only take what you need for immediate eating. Homegrown new potatoes are a luxury and should be used the same day that they are dug.

Potatoes that are going to be kept for storage should not be dug until 2-3 weeks after the foliage dies back. Carefully dig potatoes with a sturdy fork and if the weather is dry, allow the potatoes to lay in the field, unwashed, for 2-3 days. This curing step allows the skins to mature and is essential for good storage. If the weather during harvest is wet and rainy, allow the potatoes to cure in a dry protected area like a garage or covered porch.

Storage Conditions
At Seed Savers Exchange.  we are able to store potatoes well into the spring in our underground root cellar. Try to find a storage area that is well ventilated, dark, and cool. The ideal temperature is between 35 and 40 degrees F. Keep in mind that some varieties are better keepers than others. Varieties like Red Gold and Rose Gold are best used in the fall, and others like Carola and Russets are exceptional keepers.

Saving Seed Stock
Home gardeners can save seed for several generations. Save the very best potatoes for planting. You may find that after several years the size begins to decrease; this is typical. Potatoes are very susceptible to viruses. If you are looking for maximum yields it is best to start with fresh, USDA Certified Seed Stock every year.

In collaboration with University of Wisconsin-Madison researchers, SSE is working to eradicate viruses from heritage potatoes in order to safely preserve potato genetic diversity and to offer high quality seed potatoes.",
"How Long Do Potatoes Take To Grow?

It’s safe to say that growers love to watch their crops grow. We wait patiently for each sprout to mature and produce perfectly ripe fruit or vegetables. But when it comes to root vegetables, we can’t just watch and wait. We have to time the harvest just right. Pull your produce too early, and you’re stuck with unripe, tiny veggies. Wait too long and you take a risk of the crop being overripe – or even beginning to rot underground.

How long do potatoes take to grow?
Many things influence how long potatoes take to grow. Variables such as the potato variety, climate, seed preparation, and amount of fertilizer all play a part. Taking all these things into account, the average length of the growing season for potatoes is between 90 to 120 days, or 3 to 4 months.

The following factors all have their part to play in how it takes potatoes to grow

Choosing early, mid-season, or maincrop varieties
The climate of your country
Seed preparations such as chitting
Potato planting date
Desired size at harvest
Choosing early, mid-season, or maincrop varieties
There are three main types of potato varieties and, while some are ready in just under 3 months, some take an extra month to mature. Early varieties or new potatoes will be harvested earlier in the year than maincrop.

Early varieties do not necessarily mean they grow faster – just that they are ready earlier in the year. The same goes for mid-season and maincrop. All potatoes take roughly the same amount of time to grow it’s just that their planting dates determine the time of year they are ready to harvest.

Earlies
Early potatoes planted in mid-February may only be ready by the middle of July which is around 112 days. It may be possible to harvest at 100 days in warmer climates or if they grow really well.

You can start harvesting them as soon as the first large tubers appear – these tender young spuds can be very tasty. Their thin skin means the potatoes need to be eaten within a few days or they will spoil.

Mid-season
Usually, mid-season potatoes are planted in mid-March and ready by August again around 120 days. A mid-season potato is deemed mid-season as this is the optimum time of year the variety has been bred to grow.

Maincrop
Maincrop or late-season potatoes take between 100 to 120 days to grow and mature. They are usually the highest-yielding potato varieties and are designed to grow to full maturity and have thick skin for long-term storage.

Maincrop potatoes are bred to mature later in the year so they are harvested in colder weather, enabling farmers to use the colder months to store them well.

The climate of your country
The first thing you’ll need to consider is your local climate. Potatoes don’t like very warm weather. This means that you can begin planting as soon as the danger of frost has passed and you’re able to work the soil.

In more Northern regions, it can be a gamble to plant early potatoes earlier than March. But you can cover young shoots with plastic containers, burlap sheeting, or mulch overnight to protect them from late frosts.

Temperature
On the other hand, if you live in a very hot climate, you may need to plant earlier – like in December or January. You may need to avoid the extreme heat of summer – it can wreak havoc on your crop.

Closer to the Equator, potatoes are even grown as a winter crop and you may be planting in November or December.

It’s really all about the soil – we need both the right temperature and humidity levels.

At planting the soil temperature should be at least 10°C (50°F). It should also be dry enough not to stick together – not only will clumpy soil be hard to plant in, but seed potatoes can rot if the soil is too wet.

Sunlight
Your potatoes will grow best in a sunny location with cool, loose, well-drained soil. The ideal temperature range is 16 to 20 degrees Celcius. Plant your potatoes away from high trees or hedges which prevent sunlight from getting to the plants.

Rainfall
If your climate has low rainfall, you will most likely need to water your potato crop. Growing potatoes require at least an inch of rain a week to grow well.

Do all potato varieties take the same time to grow? More or less. Most potatoes can be harvested between 90 and 110 days after planting.

Seed preparations such as chitting
If planting earlies, you should prepare your seed potatoes ahead of planting by “chitting” them. Find a warm frost-free place that is quite dark. Stand your seed potatoes in an egg carton or seedling tray with the rose end (where you see the most eyes, or small dents) pointing up.

When the shoots are about 2 cm (1”) long, prepare them for planting, by bringing them into the daylight where the buds will go from white and brittle to soft and green – perfect for planting with.

This method can also be useful for maincrop potatoes. You can begin the process indoors while there is still frost in the garden. This lets you get a jumpstart on the growing season.

Potato planting date
Planting time varies, depending on your location and the type of potato you’re growing. In colder regions, you’ll want to plant slightly later, and in warmer climates, you can plant a little earlier. If growing in containers, then you can also plant anytime as you will be indoors.

As a general rule, early potatoes should be planted by March. Mid-season varieties are typically planted by April and maincrop late-season potatoes by the end of May.

While healthy potato plants can tolerate light frosts or even a mild freeze, they can’t survive hard freezes. Potatoes should be planted in cool weather – after the danger of freezing has passed, but well before hot weather sets in for the summer.

Potato size at harvesting
Early potatoes are harvested from late June onwards and maincrop potatoes are harvested from September onwards.

A good rule of thumb is 100-120 days after planting. You can also watch your potato plants for signs that your crop is ready to harvest.

You can begin to harvest earlier if you prefer smaller potatoes or you can leave them in the soil for longer if you prefer larger potatoes.

You can check for new potatoes a few weeks after the plants have finished flowering. With their thin skins, these baby potatoes won’t be cured or stored, so only pull enough for 2-3 days, and be sure to store them somewhere cool.

When the foliage begins to yellow and die back, your potatoes will be almost ready. You can stop watering your crop at this point, and when the plant tops have completely died, you can begin to harvest the potatoes.

When growing with optimum fertilizer rates, your potatoes may begin to get too big. You may need to stop the crop growing by spraying with a crop desiccant or cut the tops down to soil level.

Digging your potatoes
Start by digging up a test hill to determine if your potatoes are mature enough to harvest. The skins of mature potatoes are thick and firmly attached to the flesh. If the skins are thin and rub off easily, your potatoes should be left in the ground for a few more days if you intend to store them

Remember that although potatoes can tolerate a light frost, you will need to dig them out before the first hard frost is expected. You shouldn’t wash newly dug potatoes – the freshly harvested tubers need time to cure and for the skins to dry before they can be stored.

You can cure your crop by arranging the potatoes to have good airflow through them and allowing them to sit at room temperature for about two weeks. Once cured, the potatoes can be stored in a cool, dark place for 6 months or more.

Factors affecting maturity
As mentioned earlier, chitting or pre-sprouting your potatoes will help cut the outdoor growing time by at least a couple of weeks.
Covering your young potatoes at planting can help them become established as well as protect them from late frosts. You can use plastic containers, mulch, or even an old blanket. Leaving your potatoes vulnerable to frost can definitely lengthen maturation times, and also puts them at risk of dying.
Using fertilizer will also help your plants grow well and increase their yield. You should add a suitable potato fertiliser when planting your seed potatoes. If you feel they are lacking in size later in the year – say at flowering – you can add more if you feel they need it. The fertiliser can be homemade fertiliser or bought in.
A note about adding a large amount of fertiliser is that it can extend the growing season of the potato. So although your potatoes will be bigger, they can take longer to mature.
Summary
Before you put any potatoes in the ground you should have the season ahead planned from planting to harvest. You should know the type of potatoes, if they’ll be chitted, when they should be planted, how much fertilizer you’ll use, and when they should be ready to harvest. Salad or baby potatoes will take the shortest length of time to grow at around 80 days, then early and mid-season varieties at 90 to 100 days, and finally maincrop potatoes which can take 100 to 120 days on average. Good luck!",
"Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited
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Agrico PSA Potato growing guide for farmers in Kenya
Potato farming can be a great venture if done well. Sadly, many farmers do not have
the right information on how to manage their potato farm and get maximum yields. The
purpose of this Potato Growing Guide is to share our experience growing potatoes in
Kenya successfully, and help farmers understand the basic needs and inputs for good
potato farming so that potato farming becomes enjoyable and profitable.
SEEDS:
When you use good and certified healthy seeds your crop will perform better and you
should expect higher yields than from uncertified or recycled seed.
Please note, some people will speak of ‘clean seed’; it is never clean and disease-free
until lab analysis by KEPHIS confirms so. Therefore, we always recommend, to buy
certified seed.
When collecting the seeds from the seed merchant Agrico PSA, the farmer is advised
not to store the seed for more than 5 days.
Potatoes should not be stored in a space where other potatoes are kept, where other
foodstocks, chemicals or fertilizers are kept. The storage space needs to be
disinfected prior to use.
If potatoes are stored temporarily, it should be in a dry, dark, very well-ventilated place
where temperatures don’t go below 10 degrees or above 20 degrees, and the potatoes
can not be affected by rodents or insects, or other elements of nature.
Be careful when transporting your seeds. Do not transport potato seeds in an open
truck. If it rains and the potatoes get wet, they can start rotting within 24 hours.
Potatoes should not be transported in a truck together with any other products,
especially with ripening fruits. Fruits emit high levels of ethylene, which can damage
the sprouts and stop the potatoes from germinating. Potatoes should not be
transported in a truck that carries or has carried fruits a day before.
If that is the case, make sure the truck is cleaned and keep the doors open for a long
time to reduce the level of ethylene prior to loading.
Just plant one variety in the field or, in case of more varieties, have them properly
separated for easy management. Different varieties may mature at different times, or
may need different agronomical management. Note that there is no risk of cross
pollination in potatoes.
The temperature of the seeds shouldn’t be too low. If too low the seeds will take a
longer time before germinating. Agrico PSA supplies the seed at the right temperature,
and farmers can store it above 12 degrees Celsius for maximum 5 days.
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We advise the farmer not to de-sprout the seeds if the sprouts are more than 1cms.
This is to prevent uneven growth and yield reduction. We also discourage splitting of
seed in two or four, a practice sometimes done by farmers. This practice can cause a
lot of viral and other disease transmission.
GOOD SEEDS ARE EXPENSIVE TO BUY, BUT WILL ASSURE YOU OF A GOOD CROP!
All farmers are advised to buy seeds from a certified seed multiplier. Agrico PSA’s
varieties are restricted by plant breeders’ rights from re-multiplying for seed use by
unauthorized parties. Those who buy Agrico PSA varieties and re-multiply them to sell
to farmers as seed stand to be reported to KEPHIS and shall face the law.
FIELD:
Have a good crop-rotation, just once in four years potatoes on the same field,
otherwise the number of nematodes will increase. Fields for ware production should
be free from nematodes! If no other alternatives, use a nematicide (nematode killing
or disabling chemical) before or simultaneously at planting. Chemicals can be Velum
prime (Bayer).
The same principle of crop rotation applies to the risk of bacterial wilt, which is
becoming a big challenge in many parts of the country. Once you have bacterial wilt
in your farm, you will hardly get rid of it and experience significant decrease in yields
plus a hardly sellable end product.
The fields from which you will harvest your potatoes, can be planted with other crops
that are not botanically related to potatoes. Potatoes are in the Solanacea family, other
crops in this family are e.g. tomatoes, capsicums, nightshade (managu), tobacco,
eggplant, but also weeds like sodom apple. Cereals and legumes are the best to rotate
with potatoes for better pest/disease cycle disruption.
Besides nematodes and bacterial wilt, it is useful to check the pH level of the field. The
pH plays a significant role in the availability of microelements.
SOIL TESTING & FERTILIZER:
Find out about the nutrients in the soil by doing soil sampling, and check for the
following nutrients:
Nitrogen: Nitrogen is important in fueling growth and providing high yields. It ensures
optimal photosynthate production in leaves. Nitrogen is important in fuelling growth
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and providing high yields. It is largely needed during leaf formation and then for tuber
growth and yield, when it ensures optimal photosynthate production in the leaves.1
Phosphorus: Phosphorus is important for early root and shoot development,
providing energy for plant processes such as ion uptake and transport. At tuber
initiation, an adequate supply of phosphorus ensures supplies of optimum numbers
of tubers are formed. While potatoes are very responsive to fresh soil phosphate, the
economic optimum rate is often very difficult to define. Rates will depend on soil type
and soil test results.
2
Potassium: Potassium plays a key role in water relations and good overall plant
health. Potato plants absorb large quantities of potassium throughout the growing
season. Potassium has an important role in the control of the plant water status and
ionic concentrations inside plant tissues, including stomata. As a result of the
improved cell strength that potassium provides in potatoes, stress such as frost can
be better tolerated.
3
Calcium: Calcium is a key component of cell walls, helping to build a strong
structure and ensuring cell stability. Internal disorders such as IRS (internal rust spot
or internal brown spot - IBS) can be reduced by a good calcium supply, in the form of
calcium nitrate, at ridging or during tuber initiation. Experience shows that ensuring
there is a minimum of 0.15% calcium in the peel, improves potato skin finish, boosts
disease tolerance and minimizes IRS.
4
The required amount of nutrients and fertilisers differs per potato variety, but also
available potash in the soil, expected crop, and weather conditions. All nutrients,
especially the major ones being N, P, and K, should be added in good balance as per
your soil analysis, to avoid irregular feeding. Irregular feeding can lead to tuber cracks
and hollow hearts, just like may happen if moisture is irregular during THE growing
season. Calcium, Magnesium, Sulphur, and Borium are considered as part of the most
secondary essential nutrients, just like NPK.
A potato crop needs to be given nutrition ideally three times during the crop cycle.
About 60% of the nutrition demand lies at planting and should be given to the plant
with a base fertilizer at planting, 20% to come during top dressing at 5 weeks after
germination during tuberisation, and another 20% of nutrition needs to be given
through top dress or foliar feed at 8-9 weeks.
The recommended pH level for potatoes is 6.2. However, from a soil with pH of 5.0
you can still grow potatoes, but then add lime to the soils.
1 https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/potato/role-of-nitrogen/
2 https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/potato/role-of-phosphorus/
3 https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/potato/role-of-potassium/
4 https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/potato/role-of-calcium/
Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited
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As said before, only once in four years potatoes in a field must be the rule. This also
means that volunteer potatoes in other crops during rotation should be taken out in the
three years without potatoes. If you don’t take out volunteer plants, bacteria and
nematodes can stay alive. The volunteer plants can also become a source of diseases,
such as blight or insects.
Also, the weeds that host bacterial wilt must be destroyed in those three years. This is
the only way to get rid of this disease, together with the use of clean seeds of course.
Be aware also of infections from other fields (clean your boots, jembe, machines,
tractor / car wheels). Farmers can use Kerrol or comparable products to disinfect.

LAND PREPARATION BEFORE PLANTING:
The field should be leveled, otherwise in the deeper parts water logging can occur
which will affect your plants and reduce yields.
Prepare the soil before planting in a way that will give you about 28-30 cm of loose
soil in the depth.
When you want to have a nice and equal field with plants it is good to grade the seeds
into several sizes. In Kenya we have 2 seed sizes; Size 1 is 28-45mm (egg size) and
Size 2 is 45-60mm (fist size).
Try to work properly with the row-distances of 75cms; it makes the ridging much easier.
Place the seed just under the ground and make a little ridge above it, so that the seeds
are just below the surface. It is important all seeds are planted at same depth to ensure
even germination and ease of harvesting.
When you want to do your land preparations mechanically, we suggest you use a
horizontal working rotovator to ensure you get enough loose soil for the 30cms depth.
In case you have been working your land with a disc plough for many seasons, you
may have a hard pan right under the top soil. You will need to break this hard pan
using either a ripper or a chisel plough. This will allow for better root penetration for
your potato, but also other crops resulting in a stronger, healthier crop and eventually
higher yields and higher quality tubers. This should translate into more profit for the
farmer. At the same having good loose soil also means better aerated soil and better
drainage of water.
If you are using a tractor for planting, use narrow wheels to avoid destroying your
ridges, or having a lot of space between the ridges. You can use a bed-former or
moulding board or ridger first, and then plant your seeds in the ridges, not in the
furrows.
Avoid working with machinery on wet soils, lest you create a hard pan.
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The best planting method for can be demonstrated to you by one of our technical staff
on the date of seed collection, if given advance notice.
In order to control erosion and damage from heavy rains, it is advisable for the farmer
to dig small water holes in between the ridges. These holes will hold water and soil in
case of very heavy rains. You can dig about 2-3 holes per meter, about 10cms or 6
inches deep, in between your ridges. This will also help with water retention in case of
drought.
PLANTING DISTANCES:
The distance of the plants in the row depends on the size of the seeds and also on the
variety. Good grading and even separation of tubers at planting will optimize the crop
and result in better yields for the farmer, therefore more profitable potato farming.
For ware potato growing, an average of 18 stems per square meter are required (3 –
5 stems per meter in the row) at a row width of 75cm.
Seed size Tuber diameter Avg # of stems Planting distance within the row
(seed to seed)
Size 1 28-45mm 3-4 25 - 30 cms
Size 2 45-60mm 4-6 30 – 35 cms
NB: May vary depending on variety&field conditions, ask the AgricoPSA agronomist for advise
If you follow the recommended spacing as above ranging from 25 - 35cms between
the tubers, and 75cms between the rows, you will need about 800 – 1,000kgs (16-20
bags) of seed size 1 and 1,000 – 1,500 (20-30 bags) of seed size 2 to cover 1 acre.
The targeted plant population per acre is about 18,000 plants.
RIDGING:
Ridging or hilling up the soil around the potato plant, helps the farmer in many ways.
One is controlling weeds. The best moment to re-ridge is when the new plant is just
emerging, at the 4-8 leave stage. If there are weeds at this stage, you can cover them
together with the potato plant, and they will not be strong enough to re-emerge,
contrary to your potato plant.
A second reason for re-ridging is to give the new tubers more space to grow.
A big ridge also protects your tubers from growing out of the ridge onto the surface
area, and as a result becoming green because of exposure to sunlight. Green tubers
are not suitable for consumption, they are poisonous!
Manual (re)ridging can be done with a jembe or hoe, where you dig some loose soil
from the furrow and put it on top of the ridge. The soil you heap to form a ridge also
plays an important role to protect the young roots and stolons from the scorching sun
when there are no rains. The trenches between ridges helps in harvesting the water
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during the rains, thus keeping your soil most until another rainfall. Always be careful
not to cut the stolons and roots when digging up the soil for ridging; they grow very
close to the surface and if you damage them a lower yield will be the result.
Ridging / hilling up is making a nice wide and high ridge. If the planting has been done
properly just 2cms of soil will be added on top of the original ridge. Never bury new
plants deeper than 4cms, as this may stress or suffocate the plant and will bring an
enormous decrease in yield. Do not ridge on very wet, or very dry, soils. Moderate soil
moisture is necessary for good firm ridges.
When using a tractor, you need narrow wheels to ensure you do not break or destroy
the ridges with the tyres.
IRRIGATION:
For a good and regular growth, the potato plant requires a sufficient water supply,
especially when the stolons (off shoots of the main roots where the potatoes are
attached) are developing and the number of tubers is established. When the soil is dry
during this period fewer tubers will be created. The ultimate way is the use of dripirrigation, this way the plant has sufficient water all the time, no water is spoiled by
evaporation and the soil condition stays good. In some soils the use of sprinkler
irrigation will compact the soil so oxygen becomes a problem and the potatoes grow
slowly and harvesting becomes difficult.
If you are able to manage your time well and it is practical, we recommend irrigation
to be done late afternoon to avoid a lot of evaporation.
WEED CONTROL:
Weed control can be done by hand, just be careful about the potato roots.
For chemical control, there are several methods and products that can be used.
Chemical use to control weeds should be subject to which weeds the farmer
experiences in his field. Farmers can call the representatives of agro-chemical
companies, or the Agrico agronomist for a referral, to get advise on the chemicals that
can control weeds on the different Agrico seed varieties.
Always read the label of any chemical you intend to use, and seek expert advise
whenever possible.
Also remember to wear the appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) when
using chemicals. A proper PPE should consist of boots, spray suit, gloves, glasses /
goggles, mask.
Ensure you also safely dispose of the empty chemical containers after use; best is to
ask the chemical company representative to come and collect, or return empty bottles
to your agrovet.
Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited
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WARNING: between spraying of different kinds of chemicals, always have at least 4
days interval between the sprays, especially when mineral oil is used! Manual weeding
is recommended.
DISEASE PREVENTION:
Prevention & Treatment of Late Blight5
:
When you are using certified seed from
Agrico PSA the prevention of fungi is
important especially Late Blight is commonly
observed. Late blight is caused by the funguslike oomycete pathogen Phytophthora
infestans. This potentially devastating disease
can infect potato foliage and tubers at any
stage of crop development and can have a
devasting impact on yield and tuber quality. Late blight mostly occurs during cool and
wet weather. Symptoms are lesions on the leaves, that are initially dark green or
black and at a later stage turn brown and surrounded by a lighter halo. During active
growth, especially in cool, wet weather, a white mildew-appearing area is visible at
the edge of the lesions. The white mildew is the actively growing part of the late
blight. Late blight infected tubers will show depressed dark rotten spots on the
surface of the skin which will grow deeper in the tuber itself (varying from brown to
purplish).6 Blight infested tubers can keep spreading the disease.
We recommend farmers do preventive sprays against blight every week, from when
the first plants emerge. When the first late blight infections will appear, the fungi can
destroy your crop in less than a week.
We recommend a mix of chemicals to be used, in order to avoid resistance of the
potatoes or the fields to one specific chemical.
Farmers can be referred by the Agrico agronomist to the chemical companies who can
develop a customized spray regime to follow. Farmers can also ask the chemical
companies for their specific spray programs, or have a look at the website of the
relevant chemical companies such as Bayer7 or Syngenta.
On a general note: Always start with a preventive chemical, one to three times during
the crop cycle, then apply preventive and curative. Rule of thumb is to spray at an
interval of once a week, but may be altered based on weather conditions (i.e. if the
weather or the season is very wet, the farmer may have to spray more often, like after
4-5 days).
5 https://www.potatopro.com/news/2015/idaho-late-blight-outbreak-worst-1998 24/07/2018
6 https://www.ag.ndsu.edu/publications/crops/late-blight-in-potato, 30/07/2020
7 https://www.cropscience.bayer.africa/ke/en-ke/products.html, 13/09/2021
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After flowering, when the plant starts tuber bulking, use a chemical that gives tubers
protection. Your chemical spraying regime should be depending on climate
circumstances.
No chemical is too strong to work alone without alternates, and no weather is too good
to do away with the spraying.
Prevention & Treatment of Early Blight:
Early blight is a fungal disease somewhat similar to
late blight. Early blight also gives stains on the leaves
and slowly deteriorates the plant till it dies. The main
difference with early blight is that the stains on the
leaves are small spots and not larger blotches as with
late blight. Early blight is also seen later on in the
season and comes in once the plant starts showing
signs of yellowing. This is why this disease is also called ‘the ageing disease’. Early
blight will accelerate the ageing process and have a big impact on your total yield at
harvest, since potato tubers will add most weight towards the end of the growing cycle.
Control of early blight can be done through anti-fungal sprays and can also be
combined with your normal late blight control. There are several products available.
We suggest you contact the leading agro-dealer in your area for advice on products,
or the regional representatives for Bayer, Syngenta or similar companies for the
correct products to use.8
Bacterial Wilt is common in Kenya.
Controlling this can be done by using certified seeds,
clean fields and by avoiding the use of contaminated
irrigation water. If you need to irrigate then test the
water first.
Watch out for spreading of the bacteria by tractor
and/or machinery or even by human beings. Disinfection of farm workers & tools is
important.
CONTROLLING PESTS & INSECTS:
Insects needs to be controlled as well as they can be major transporters of diseases
and viruses. Also, insects can damage the crop leaves and tubers, resulting in lower
yields or lower quality tubers, affecting farmers profits.
There is a wide range of insects that can affect potatoes, and different insects at
different stages of the crop may require different intervention from the farmer. Some
common insects affecting potato farmers are cutworms, millipedes, aphids, thrips,
8 https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/sitesgateway/files/alternaria%20%2824, 24/07/2018
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leaf minors, snails, bugs, spider-mites, whiteflies, potato tuber moth, wire worm, and
stemborer.
HARVESTING:
Your plants are ready for harvesting when the foliage has completely dried up, i.e.
leaves have wilted and turned yellow or brown and dry, and also the stems feeding
the tubers need to have dried off.
Harvesting should be done under good weather conditions, not too warm and not too
wet. Prevent bruising the tubers by waiting until the skin of tubers is hardened off
enough. You can do the ‘finger test’, with rubbing your thumb over a harvested tuber.
If the skin of the tuber comes off, or peels, that is an indicator the tubers are not yet
ready for harvesting.
Treat potatoes like eggs, they are very sensitive and fragile. Damaged and bruised
potatoes are more susceptible for diseases and are likely to lose more weight during
storage.
STORAGE:
Often the prices of potatoes are not so good during the harvesting period since most
farmers will plant and also harvest all at the same time. In such case you can decide
to store your potatoes and wait for better prices.
When storing potatoes, it is very important to do it correct. The potatoes must be
ventilated mechanically or by natural ventilation in order to dry the tubers. You need
to be careful to keep the potatoes dry but not to dry them out and cause weight loss.
If you are storing the potatoes in a place that has held potatoes before, you need to
disinfect the store from last years’ crop before putting in your fresh, clean potatoes.
Otherwise, potatoes can still pick up diseases from the storage facility.
Depending on desired storage time one has to look at different storage options.
It is important for processing varieties (chips, crisps) that the tuber temperature does
not drop below 7 degrees Celsius, otherwise sugar-content may increase above the
required levels. This will not be acceptable to the processors as it will give them brown
chips or crisps.
The cleaner (without dirt and rot and cuts) the crop is brought into the store, the better
it will stay during storage.
Disclaimer:
Please note that this document is a general guide to potato farming in East Africa, but
not an absolute instruction. Changes can be done depending on many factors, e.g.
type of soil, climate, weather, market, etc.
Agrico PSA does not take any responsibility or liability in case of misinterpretation and
loss of yields or crop as a result. When in doubt, always consult the Agrico agronomist,
or other agronomists or technically skilled people. ",
"Easy Gardening
Joseph Masabni, Assistant Professor and Extension Horticulturist, The Texas A&M University System
irish potatoes • irish potatoes • irish pota-
-1-
I
rish potatoes are one of America’s most
popular vegetables—the average American eats about 125 pounds of potatoes
and potato products each year.
The edible part of the plant is an underground stem called a tuber (not a root).
Irish potatoes contain 2 percent protein
and 18 percent starch. They are an inexpensive source of carbohydrates and, when
prepared properly, provide good amounts
of vitamins and minerals.
Irish potatoes are a cool-season crop;
they grow best in early spring and late fall
when the days are warm and the nights are
cool. However, the tops of the plant cannot withstand frost.
Varieties
The most common types of Irish potatoes are red or white. Most red varieties
store longer than do white varieties; on the
other hand, most white varieties have better cooking qualities than red varieties.
Many gardeners plant some of each
in the spring. The whites are used first and
the reds stored for later use.
Several varieties grow well in Texas:
	 •	 Red flesh: Dark Red Norland,
	 	 Norland, Red LaSoda, and Viking
	 •	 White flesh: Atlantic, Gemchip,
 Kennebec, and Superior
	 •	 Yellow flesh: Yukon Gold
	 •	 Russet: Century Russet, Norgold M,
	 	 and Russet Norkatah
Site selection
For best production, potatoes need
full sun. They do best in a loose, welldrained, slightly acid soil. Poorly drained
soils often cause poor stands and low
yields. Heavy soils can cause the tubers to
be small and rough.
Soil preparation
Before spading, remove the rocks,
trash, and large sticks from the soil. Spade
EHT-068
6-14
fertilizer—about 2 cups for each 30 feet of
row—in each trench.
The seed pieces will be planted in the
row between the two bands of fertilizer
(Fig. 3).
Seed preparation
Unlike most other vegetables, Irish
potatoes are not grown from seed. Instead,
pieces from the potato itself start new
plants. Buy good seed potatoes that are free
of disease and chemicals. Do not buy potatoes from a grocery store for planting.
The seed potato contains buds or
“eyes” that sprout and grow into plants.
The seed piece provides food for the plant
until it develops a root system. If the seed
is too small, it will produce a weak plant.
One pound of seed potatoes will make 9 to
10 seed pieces.
For
a spring
crop, cut
large seed
potatoes
into pieces
weighing
about 1½ to
2 ounces,
about the
size of a medium hen egg. Each seed piece
must have at least one good eye (Fig. 4).
	 Cut the seeds 5 or 6 days before planting. Hold the cut seed in a well-ventilated
spot so it can heal over to prevent rotting
when planted in cold, wet or very hot
weather. Plants killed by a late spring frost
will not come back if the seed piece is rotten.
For fall-grown potatoes, plant small,
uncut potatoes because they are more resistant to rotting in hot weather than cut
potatoes. Select mature potatoes about 1½
inches in diameter.
the soil 8 to 12 inches deep turning the
earth over to cover all plant material.
	 Work the soil into beds 10 to 12
inches high and 36 inches apart (Fig. 1).
Bedding is vital for drainage.
Because potatoes need adequate fertilizer early in the season, apply most of the
fertilizer just before planting. Use 2 to 3
pounds of complete fertilizer such as 10-
20-10 for each 30 feet of row in bands 2
inches to each side and 1 inch below the
seed piece. Do not allow the fertilizer to
touch the seed piece.
To apply the fertilizer, flatten the beds at
6 to 8 inches high and 10 to 12 inches
wide (Fig. 2). Using the corner of a hoe or
stick, open a trench about 4 inches deep
on each side of the bed. Apply half of the
-2-
Figure 1. Before planting potatoes, work the soil
into beds 10 to 12 inches high and 36 inches apart.
36”
10–12”
Figure 2. Flatten the beds at 6 to 8 inches high
and 10 to 12 inches wide.
10–12” 10–12”
6–8”
Figure 3. Plant the seed pieces in a row between
two bands of fertilizer.
Seed piece
Fertilizer
Figure 4. Cut large seed potatoes into pieces, each having at
least one good eye.
Seed pieces
inches apart in the trench (Fig. 5). Step on
each seed piece after dropping it to ensure
good contact with the soil.
	 Cover the seed about 3 inches deep. If
covered too deeply, the plants will be slow
to break through the soil and will be more
subject to disease and seed decay.
Fertilizing
The plant must have adequate moisture and fertilizer when the tubers are
forming. This usually occurs when the
plants are 6 to 8 inches tall. Apply 1 cup of
fertilizer for each 30 feet of row beside the
plants when they are about 4 inches tall.
Watering
	 During growth, keep the soil moisture
supply constant. Water the fertilizer into
the soil, especially on sandy soils.
Moisture stress followed by irrigation
or rainfall can cause growth cracks and
second growth (Fig. 6). If the rainfall is accompanied by hot weather, the rest period
of developing
tubers
can be
broken
and can
cause the
tubers to
sprout
in the
soil. Too
much
water enlarges the pores on the tubers and
makes them rot easily in storage.
Care during the season
All tubers produced on a potato plant
arise from above the seed piece. Because
-3-
Potatoes have a rest period that must
be broken before they will sprout. The rest
period is more easily broken in small, mature potatoes.
To be sure the rest period is broken,
store small seed potatoes under warm,
damp conditions for 2 weeks before planting by placing them in a shady spot and
covering them with moist burlap bags or
mulch. The potatoes should have small
sprouts at planting time.
Seed is usually more available in the
spring than in the fall. Many gardeners
buy extra seeds in the spring and hold it
over for fall planting. For best storage, keep
the potatoes in a cool, humid spot such as
the bottom of a refrigerator.
	 Do not save your potato seeds for
more than 1 year. This can cause buildup
of virus diseases and reduce yield.
Planting
Plant potatoes when the soil temperature 4 inches deep reaches about 50
degrees F, or about 3 weeks before the last
spring frost. In most areas of Texas, potatoes should be planted in February or early
March. If planted too early, the tops can be
frozen off by spring frost.
For a fall crop, plant about 110 days
before the first expected frost, or mid-August in most areas.
Use a hoe or stick to open a trench
about 3 inches deep down the center of
the bed. Drop the seed pieces 10 to 12
Figure 5. Drop the seed pieces 10 to 12 inches
apart in the trench.
3-4” 12”
Figure 6. Moisture stress followed by
watering can cause growth cracks and
second growth. Too much water causes
enlarged pores on the tubers.
Growth
crack
Second
growth
Enlarged
pores
Potato plants do not cross with tomato plants.
Insects
Many insecticides are available at garden centers for homeowner use. Sevin is a
synthetic insecticide; organic options include sulfur and Bt-based insecticides. Sulfur has also fungicidal properties and helps
in controlling many diseases.
Before using a pesticide, read the label
and always follow cautions, warnings, and
directions.
-4-
the seed piece is planted only 3 inches
deep, soil must be pulled toward the plant
as it grows (Fig. 7). This gives the tubers a place to form.
Some gardeners use thick mulch
for this purpose. Potatoes formed
in soft mulch often are smoother
and have a better shape than those
grown in soil. This is especially true
if the soil is heavy.
As the potatoes enlarge, they
must be protected from sunlight or
they will turn green. Apply a thick
layer of mulch when the plants are
8 to 10 inches tall to block sunlight,
reduce soil temperature, and increase
yield and quality.
 Potato plants usually produce flowers and sometimes produce fruits
(Fig. 8).
The fruits
bear the
true seed of
the potato
plant. They
look like
small tomatoes but
cannot be
eaten.
Figure 8. Potato plants
usually produce flowers
and sometimes produce
fruits.
Name and description Control
1
⁄16 inch long; metallic
bronze, black, blue or
green; jumps quickly; eats
small, round holes in leaves
Sevin
Adult: black and yellow
stripes; 3
⁄8 inch long;
Larva: red, light orange;
two rows of black dots on
each side; soft bodied; up
to 3
⁄8 inch long; feeds on
leaves
Sevin
1
⁄8 inch long; green, pink,
red, or brown; soft bodied;
usually found on underside
of leaves; sucks plant juices
Malathion
Yellow-white; dark head
and tail; slender; ½ to 1½
inches long; feeds on tubers
Weed
control,
sanitation
and hand
removal
Green; wedge shaped;
crawls sidewise when disturbed; up to 1
⁄8 inch long;
sucks juices from leaves;
leaves curl upward and turn
yellow to brown
Sevin
Flea beetle
Colorado potato
beetle
Wireworm
Aphid
Adult Larva
Leafhopper
Figure 7. Because all tubers produced on a potato
plant come from above the seed piece, the soil
must be pulled toward the plant as it grows.
Soil or
mulch
Tubers will
 turn green
 if not covered
Seed piece
Roots
To harvest potatoes, dig under the
plants with a shovel or spading fork. Keep
the pitchfork 8 to 10 inches away from the
plant to prevent cutting the potatoes. Raise
the plants and shake away the soil.
Potatoes should be dug when the soil
is moist. If it is too wet, the soil will stick
to the potatoes. If too dry, dirt clods will
bruise the potatoes.
Pull the potatoes from the vines and
handle them carefully to prevent damage;
damaged potatoes do not store well.
Allow the potatoes to dry; then store
them in a cool spot with plenty of air
movement. Most potato varieties are ready
to dig 95 to 110 days after planting.
After the potatoes are dug, place the
tops in the compost pile. The spring potato
crop often can be followed with a summer
crop such as southern peas.
Serving
Peel away the green areas on potatoes
before cooking. For suggestions on how to
prepare and serve potatoes, contact your
county Extension agent.
-5-
Diseases
Potatoes are troubled by several diseases. Treating seed pieces with a fungicide
before planting can be helpful.
	 Check the plants daily and treat them
with an approved fungicide if diseases appear. Neem oil, sulfur, and other fungicides
are available for use. Always follow label
directions.
A good rotation program is an effective way to control most potato diseases. If
possible, do not plant potatoes in the same
place more than once each 3 years. Do not
follow or precede potatoes with eggplant,
okra, pepper or tomato.
Seed piece treatment is especially important if your garden is too small for adequate rotation.
Harvesting and storing
Potatoes are ready to harvest when
the tops begin to die and the potato skin
becomes firm. The skin is set when it does
not scrape easily when rubbed with the
thumb. Skin set can be speeded by cutting
back the tops of the plants.
	 Most of the potatoes should weigh 6
to 12 ounces at harvest. You can harvest
small “new potatoes” during the growing season by carefully digging beside the
plants with your fingers.
Acknowledgments
This publication was revised from earlier versions written
by B. Dean McCraw, former Professor and Extension Horticulturist.
The information given herein is for educational purposes only. Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with
the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service is implied.
Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service
AgriLifeExtension.tamu.edu
More Extension publications can be found at AgriLifeBookstore.org
Educational programs of the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard
to race, color, sex, religion, national origin, age, disability, genetic information, or veteran status.
The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating.",
"Agriculture and Natural Resources
FSA6016
Home Gardening Series
Irish Potatoes
Craig R. Andersen
Associate Professor and
Extension Specialist ­
Vegetables
Arkansas Is
Our Campus
Visit our web site at:
https://www.uaex.uada.edu
Environment
Light – sunny
Soil – well-drained
Fertility – medium-rich
pH – 5.0 to 6.5
Temperature – cool
Moisture – uniform moisture
Culture
Planting – seed pieces late winter or
late summer
Spacing – 10-12 inches x 24-36 inches
Hardiness – cool season, hardy
Fertilizer – medium to heavy feeder
Irish Potatoes – Solanum
tuberosum
The potato is a cool-season
vegetable that ranks with wheat and
rice as one of the most important
staples in the human diet. Potatoes
are native to America and were cultivated from Chile to New Grenada at
the time the Spanish explorers
reached South America. The
Spaniards introduced the species to
Europe soon after 1580, and the popularity of potatoes spread all over
Europe and the British Isles by the
end of the 17th century. In 1719 Irish
immigrants introduced white potatoes
to New England, and now white potatoes are often called “Irish potatoes.”
Potatoes are not roots but
specialized underground storage
stems called “tubers.” Maximum tuber
formation occurs at soil temperatures
between 60 and 70 degrees F. The
tubers fail to form when the soil
temperature reaches 80 degrees F.
Potatoes will withstand light frost
in spring and can be grown
throughout Arkansas.
Cultural Practices
Planting Time
Potatoes are among the earliest
vegetables planted in the garden.
Early, midseason and late varieties
may be planted in early to midFebruary through early March in
southern Arkansas and early March to
early April in northern Arkansas.
Midseason and late varieties may be
planted as late as July 15 to August 1
for fall production. Late potatoes are
best for winter storage.
Spacing and Depth of Planting
Start potatoes from a “seed piece”
rather than from true seed. However,
there is a particular potato variety
called ‘Homestead Hybrid’ that is
grown from true potato seed. Plant
seed pieces in a window box or
greenhouse for transplants, or plant
directly in the garden. Seed pieces are
small whole potatoes or larger ones
that are cut into 1 1/2- to 2-ounce
pieces. Plant the pieces soon after
cutting. Be sure there are at least two
to three good “eyes” in each seed
piece. Some garden centers and seed
suppliers sell potato eyes that weigh
University of Arkansas, United States Department of Agriculture, and County Governments Cooperating
Cultivars
Crop Cultivar
Days to
Maturity
Seed Per
100 Feet
of Row Remarks
Irish Potatoes Kennebec 110 13 pounds Smooth, oblong white tuber; heavy yields; good quality; high
starch.
Irish Cobbler 95 13 pounds Round white tuber; early; well adapted, high starch.
Pontiac 100 13 pounds Round, oblong red tuber; heavy yields; low starch.
Superior 90 13 pounds Early, round white tubers; moderate heat tolerance; low starch.
All Blue 13 pounds Deep blue/purple-colored skins and flesh. Retains color after
cooking as well. Suitable for all cooking. Mid to late maturity;
vigorous plants. Blue flowered; medium starch.
Yukon Gold 13 pounds Mid-early variety; oval, medium-large potato with light yellow
flesh. Large, upright plants have violet flowers; medium starch.
Dark Red
Norland
13 pounds Early, stores well. Oval-oblong, smooth red potato with white
flesh. Great for early digging. Medium-large purple flowering
plants; low starch.
*NOTE: Check your local garden centers or farm stores for certified seed potatoes in the spring.
less than an ounce; these are not the desired size.
Small, whole, certified seed potatoes are the best
choice for home gardeners.
Plant seed pieces 10 to 12 inches apart and cover
them in a furrow 2 to 3 inches deep. Space the rows
24 to 36 inches apart. The 24-inch spacing is often
beneficial because plants will shade the soil and
prevent high soil temperatures that inhibit
tuber development.
Care
The soil should be fertile and well drained. Clay
soils should be improved with organic matter and
plowed in the fall. Use raised beds to improve
soil drainage. Band fertilizer 6 inches on both sides
of the row at the rate of 6 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of row. When the plants are 8 to
12 inches tall, side-dress another 3 pounds of
fertilizer per 100 feet of row about 6 inches from the
center of the row.
Mulching is usually helpful in growing potatoes.
Apply organic mulch after the potato plants have
emerged to conserve moisture, help keep down weeds
and cool the soil. Some gardeners cover rows of early
potatoes with clear plastic film at planting to warm
the soil and promote early growth. After the plants
emerge, remove the film to allow the plants to grow.
Hill the potatoes after they break the surface of
the ground, gradually build up a low ridge of loose
soil by cultivation and hoeing. This ridge, which may
become 4 to 6 inches high in summer, reduces the
number of sunburned (greened) tubers. The object of
potato cultivation is to eliminate competition from
weeds, to loosen and aerate the soil and to build up
the row. Misshaped potatoes result when the tubers
develop in hard, compacted soil.
Irrigate to ensure uniform moisture while the
tubers are developing. A uniform moisture supply
also helps cool the ground and helps eliminate knobs
caused by secondary growth.
Harvesting
Harvest potatoes after most of the vines have
died. Handle as gently as possible during harvest.
Leave the tubers exposed to the sun just long enough
for the soil to dry and fall off. Too much direct sunlight blisters the tubers and causes them to turn
green and rot in storage. Since the tubers develop
4 to 6 inches beneath the soil surface, a spade fork is
useful for digging potatoes.
Potatoes for use in early summer (“new”
potatoes) may be dug before the vines die (usually in
June or July). When the potatoes reach 1 to 2 inches
in size, dig a few hills to use for soups or to cook with
peas, cream or butter.
Late potatoes are usually dug in October. They
will keep in the garage or basement for several
weeks in their natural dormancy. Store over the
winter in a dark room or in a cooler at a temperature
between 38 and 40 degrees F with high humidity.
Check periodically for spoilage.
Common Problems
Early blight disease causes yellowing and dying
of the leaves. The presence of brown spots and
yellowing of the lower leaves are the first signs of the
disease. The entire plant will become infected if the
disease is not controlled. Control early blight by
weekly applications of suggested fungicides,
beginning when seedlings are 6 to 8 inches high.
Potato scab disease (indicated by scabby, rough
skin) does not develop when the soil pH is 5.6 or
below. Plant resistant varieties when available.
Colorado potato beetles, flea beetles and
leafhoppers can significantly reduce potato yields.
Control these insects with suggested insecticides.
diseases – early blight, scab, late blight, tuber
rots, virus complex, fusarium, verticillium and
bacterial wilts
insects – Colorado potato beetles, flea beetles,
leafhoppers
cultural – green skin (sun exposure), hollow
heart (alternate wet and dry conditions), black
walnut wilt (too close to a black walnut tree)
Harvesting and Storage
days to maturity – 100 to 120
harvest – Dig early potatoes when tubers are
large enough to eat. Harvest potatoes for storage
after the vines die down or just after the first light
fall frost nips the vines, before heavy freezing. Avoid
skinning tubers when digging and avoid long
exposure to light.
approximate yields (per 10 feet of row) – 6 to
15 pounds
amount to raise per person – 75 to 100 pounds
(plant about 15 pounds of seed potatoes per person)
storage – medium-cool conditions (38 to
42 degrees F), moist (90 percent relative humidity)
conditions; 6 to 8 months. Sprouting is a problem at
higher temperatures.
preservation – usually stored in medium cool,
moist conditions
There are more than 100 varieties of potatoes.
The horticultural varieties generally have white flesh
and light brown or red skin. There are different
types of potatoes with yellow to blue flesh and many
different skin colors. An interesting one now being
grown is ‘Yellow Finn.’ ‘Russet Burbank’ is one of the
most important varieties produced in the United
States. The weather in Arkansas is too warm and the
moisture fluctuation is too great for the production of
smooth ‘Russet Burbank’ tubers and good yields.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. Should I save some of my potatoes for seed
potatoes?
A.	 No. Saving your own seed potatoes can lead to a
buildup of viruses and diseases.
Q. My potato plants flowered and formed
green fruits that resemble small tomatoes.
What are they?
A.	 These small seed balls are the fruits that contain
the true seeds. They are not edible.
Q. What causes green skins on my potatoes?
A.	 The green areas on tubers develop where the
potato was exposed to the sun. This condition
occurs when potatoes are not planted deeply
enough or not covered with straw. The green
portions taste bitter because they contain an
alkaloid. Cut off and discard these green areas.
Exposure of potato tubers to fluorescent light or
sunlight will cause greening during storage.
Q. Can I make chips from homegrown
potatoes?
A.	 Yes. Any potato variety can be used to make
chips when the potatoes are freshly dug.
Commercial chips are made from selected
varieties that are carefully handled and stored.
Chips made from inferior varieties or improperly
stored potatoes will be brown and have a dark
ring because they contain excessive amounts
of sugars.
Q. I used potatoes bought at the grocery store
as seed for planting, and they rotted
without sprouting. Why?
A.	 Many potatoes sold for fresh market consumption
have been treated to prevent sprouting in storage
and when planted. Potatoes have a rest period
that must be broken before the seed pieces will
sprout. Cool or extremely warm temperatures
can break the rest period and allow potatoes to
sprout. Plant certified seed potatoes that have
been properly stored to induce sprouting.
Q. Can I save the small potatoes from my
spring crop for planting in the fall in
my garden?
A.	 Yes. This is commonly done. Sometimes the
potatoes saved from the spring garden fail to
sprout when planted in the fall because of a
natural dormancy in newly harvested potatoes. A
recommended procedure for breaking the
dormancy includes harvesting the potatoes and
placing them in a cool storage area, preferably
about 50 degrees F, until about three to four
weeks before the anticipated fall planting date.
To prevent rotting, do not cut. Plant the small
potatoes whole.
Q. How do I know when my potatoes are ready
for harvesting?
A.	 Potatoes are mature when the plant starts to
yellow. Potatoes require 75 to 140 days from
planting to maturity depending upon variety and
the season they are grown. Immature potatoes
often skin and bruise easily. Dig spring-planted
potatoes before the soil becomes hot. Avoid
harvesting potatoes when the soil is wet to avoid
storage diseases.
Q. I have some seed potatoes left from my
spring garden. Would it be all right to
eat them?
A.	 No. Potato tubers purchased for seed purposes
should not be eaten because they frequently have
been chemically treated. Like all treated seeds,
seed potatoes should not be fed to humans
or animals.
Q. After harvesting, how should I handle my
potatoes to result in the longest storage
time possible?
A.	 Dig potatoes when the soil is dry. Be careful not
to skin or bruise the tubers. Do not wash the
potatoes. Place them in crates or some suitable
container and store them in a dark area for three
to five days at 60 degrees F with high humidity.
After this curing period, keep the potatoes at
40 to 45 degrees F with humidity near 85 percent
and provide good air circulation.
Q. Can potatoes be left in the ground for
storage?
A.	 Generally no. Cool, humid conditions (38 to
45 degrees F and 85 percent relative humidity)
are best for Irish potato storage. The potatoes
would not stay dry enough in the soil to prevent
second growth or sprouting. Several weeks at
high temperatures can break the rest period in
homegrown potatoes, after which sprouts will
develop on the tuber. It is better to dig the
potatoes and put them in a cool, damp area.
Q. After a rainfall, the potato plants in one
area of my garden began to die rapidly. The
stems rotted. A dark discoloration is moving
up the stem to the top of the plant, and the
stem has a foul odor.
A.	 This is black leg of potatoes, one of the major
bacterial potato problems. To prevent this
problem, plant only in well-drained areas. Seed
piece treatment also helps prevent the entry of
bacteria and other organisms.
Q. The stems of my Irish potato plants are
decayed. The plants weaken but do not die.
A.	 This is Rhizoctonia, a soil-borne fungus that
causes decay in stems and seed pieces. Approved
seed-piece fungicides are the best control for this
disease. Always follow label instructions closely.
Q. When I dug my potatoes, they were covered
by small, raised bumps.
A.	 This is a physiological condition called large
lenticle. It is caused by water-saturated soil
conditions. Choose a well-drained site and
raised beds.
Q. After I dug my potatoes, I found that they
were rough with deep scars.
A.	 This is potato scab, caused by a soil-borne
organism. Control by maintaining an acid soil,
below pH 5.6, around your potato plants and a
uniform moisture level from the time the potato
is formed until it is harvested.
Q. The lower foliage on my potato plants is
beginning to turn yellow and is covered
with brown spots.
A.	 This is early blight of potatoes and is similar to
blight on tomatoes. Spray with a fungicide when
spots are observed and repeat at 7- to 14-day
intervals for two to three sprays.
Q. The foliage of my potato plants is distorted,
rolled and is not as healthy as it should be.
A.	 Several viruses attack potatoes. The best
prevention of potato viruses is to plant only
certified seed pieces.
Q. When I dug my potatoes, I noticed small
holes chewed in the tubers. How do I
prevent this?
A.	 Several soil-inhabiting insects, such as
wireworms and white grubs, cause this type of
damage. Use control measures for these pests
before planting. Use insecticides only as directed
on the label.
Q. The leaves of my potatoes are disappearing
fast. All I see on the plant are some pinkish
worms.
A.	 These pinkish larvae are immature Colorado
potato beetles. They defoliate plants and can be
controlled with insecticides. Use as directed on
label. In small plots, control by picking the larvae
off by hand and destroying them.
Photo Credit: Scott Bauer @ USDA-NRCS.
Printed by University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service Printing Services.
DR. CRAIG R. ANDERSEN is associate professor and Extension
specialist - vegetables, Horticulture Department, University of
Arkansas Division of Agriculture, Fayetteville.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and
June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture,
Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Arkansas. The
Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible
persons regardless of race, color, national origin, religion, gender, age,
disability, marital or veteran status, or any other legally protected status
FSA6016-PD-7-11RV and is an Affirmative Action/Equal Opportunity Employer. ",
"Growing Potatoes
in Your Home Garden A Guide to Growing Potatoes
In Your Home Garden
Yes potatoes are
nutritious!  They are a
great source of vitamin
C, potassium, fiber and
protein, all with no fat!
Potatoes, along with
many other vegetables,
can be prepared as
part of a healthy diet.  
Luckily,  potatoes are
versatile and are easy
to prepare. Whether
baked, boiled, roasted
or fried they are a
delicious addition to
Potatoes are native to the
Andean region of South
America.  European explorers
introduced the potato to
Europe in 1536 but it did not
arrive in the United States
until 1719 when Irish
immigrants brought the
potato with them to the New
World.  
Have you ever grown potatoes in
your garden?
Growing potatoes is fun and not that hard!  
Home gardeners can grow unique varieties that
are not sold in local supermarkets. Potatoes
come in all different shapes, sizes and colors.  Did
you know that there are purple, red and yellow
potatoes ? Potatoes make a great garden project
for your children or grandchildren.
Kelly A. Zarka, Donna C. Kells, David  S. Douches and  C. Robin Buell
Michigan State University
any meal.   
Should you eat the skin?  Yes!  We recommend
it!  The skin of the potato contains the majority
of the potato's fiber, and many of the nutrients
are located close to the skin. Wash the potato
thoroughly, cut away green discoloration and/or
sprouts, and enjoy your potato with the skin on.
Potatoes are the number one non‐grain food
crop in the world.  In the United States, over 1
million acres are planted each year for
commercial production. Potatoes are
important to developing nations as well.
Potatoes can grow in harsh climates and many
potato varieties can be produced in 90 days or
less on small parcels of land.
Potatoes are important in our world!
Figure 1. Children love helping in the garden and
getting dirty is an added bonus.  
Figure 2.  Source: U.S. Food and
Drug Administration
Are potatoes nutritious?
Where did potatoes come from?
© Michigan State University and the Potato Breeding and Genetics Program
Figure 3. Peru, South
America . Photo credit:
Allard Schmidt
All about potatoes
The potato is a member of the Solanaceae
(nightshade) family, which includes tomato,
pepper, eggplant, petunia and tobacco.  
The enlarged, edible, underground storage
portion of the potato plant is called a “tuber”.
The tuber develops from underground stems
called stolons.  Dormant buds (eyes) develop on
the tuber.  Tuber formation begins when plants
are 6 to 8 inches tall, or five to seven weeks
after planting, and results from the production
and movement of starch into the developing
tubers.  Many varieties develop fruits and
flowers, but these parts are not edible.  The
fruits look like small green tomatoes and
contain the true seed of the potatoes; however
they are genetically different from the parent.
Plants grown from this seed will not necessarily
resemble the original variety.  Commercial
potato production and home gardeners use
tuber pieces containing at least one dormant
bud (eye) that will sprout and form a potato
plant. These tuber pieces are sometimes
referred to as “potato seed” or “seed pieces”.
The potato is raised as an annual crop, however,
tubers left in the garden that do not completely
freeze during the winter, may emerge as
volunteer potato plants when the soil warms
again.
Potato types and uses
Potato varieties vary according to shape, flesh
color and skin appearance.  They are classified
according to the tuber types listed below (see
Figure 4).
Long Russet (A):  A thick‐skinned potato with a
long shape and dry texture; good for baking and
frying (French fries). This is the most popular
market type in the United States. Variety
example: Goldrush.
All about potatoes
Round white/Long white (B):  A thin‐light
brown skinned all‐purpose potato with firm,
creamy texture; best for boiling and frying.
Variety examples:  Onaway, Kennebec, Superior
(Round),
Shepody and Cal White (Long)
Round red skin (C): A thin, red‐skinned potato
with firm, creamy texture; good for boiling.
Variety examples: Red Norland, Chieftain and
Red Pontiac.
Yellow (D): There are several varieties with thin,
golden skins and creamy smooth yellow flesh;
good for boiling and frying, some for baking.
Variety examples: Yukon Gold, Yellow Finn.
Round Red skin yellow flesh (E): New varieties
with various color combinations are being
released every year. One example is a red
skinned potato with creamy yellow flesh. Good
for boiling. Variety example: Red Gold
Purple (F): A violet‐purple skinned potato with
purple flesh; for baking and frying. They retain
their color when cooked. Variety examples:
Adirondack Blue, Purple Majesty
Fingerlings (G): Small varieties that are narrow
almost finger shaped. Fingerlings are fully
mature when harvested. Variety examples:
Banana, Rose Finn Apple.
Figure 4: Potatoes come in many shapes and
colors. Photo credit: U.S. Potato Board
A B
C
D
E
F G
Variety Selection, Seed Purchasing and Soil Preparation
Variety Selection
Choice of a potato variety for growing in a home
garden depends on factors such as garden space
availability, desired uses, and storage plans.  
To ensure quality and maximum productivity,
purchase certified seed tubers.  Certified potato
tuber seed is seed of a known variety produced
under strict standards to maintain seed tubers
that are virus and disease free.   Saving tubers
from your garden will eventually result in
decreased yields and small tubers due to more
incidences of disease. For the same reason, you
do not want to plant tubers from the grocery
store.  Grocery store potatoes have been treated
to prevent sprouting so it may be difficult to
even get a plant started at planting time.
Certified potato tuber seed can be purchased at
area garden nurseries or through the internet.  If
you are interested in trying new or unique
varieties, try purchasing from reputable online
vendors including:  
Irish Eyes Garden Seeds
http://www.gardencityseeds.net
Wood Prairie Farm
http://www.woodprairie.com
Gardens Alive!
http://www.gardensalive.com
Burpee
http://burpee.com
Potato Garden.com
http://www.potatogarden.com
Seed Preparation
Depending on the source and the quantity you
buy you will receive either small tubers or large
tubers.  Small tubers (1 to 2 inches in diameter)
can be planted whole.  Cut large tubers into
block‐shaped, 2 to 2 1/2 ounce seed pieces
(about the size of an egg) (Figure 5). The seed
pieces should be firm, with at least one “eye”
per section and a maximum sprout length of
1/4 to 1/2 inch to ensure optimum
germination.  Seed tubers can be cut and
planted on the same day, however allowing the
cut surface to heal over for 4‐7 days may
reduce the risk of seed pieces rotting in the
soil.
Figure 5: Tuber seed piece cuttings.
Soil Preparation and Fertility
Potatoes grow on a wide range of soils, but are
best suited to a sandy loam or a soil that is well
drained.  Very sandy soils may require extra
watering to maintain adequate soil moisture.  
Fine‐textured soils that are high in silts and clay
may not be well drained, and they tend to
produce poorly shaped potatoes.
If possible, a soil test can be performed before
planting.  Contact your local Extension office
for details on soil testing.  The best soil pH for
potatoes is between 5.5 and 6.0. A pH above
6.0 may increase the incidence of common
scab (a disease) on tubers. If a soil test is not
available, follow these recommended
guidelines:
•Rototill into the seedbed about 2 pounds per
50 feet of row of 12‐12‐12 (N‐P‐K) analysis
fertilizer.
Planting and Care of Potatoes in Your Garden
•Beside the row, apply 1/3 pound per 50 feet of
row of 46‐0‐0 (urea) fertilizer one week after
plant emergence and again between 4 and 6
weeks after emergence.  Instead of working the
fertilizer into the soil, water thoroughly so that
the fertilizer moves into the root zone.  
Do not amend the soil with lime or manure in the
same year that potatoes are to be grown. Lime
and manure increase the risk of potato scab
disease.  
Planting and Care
Potatoes are a cool season crop; ideal
temperatures for crop growth are 65 to 80 during
the day and 55 to 65 at night. The soil should be
cultivated 6 to 8 inches deep in the spring, and
large soil clods should be broken up or removed
before planting. Plant potatoes when soil
temperatures are above 45 F. Cold, wet soil at
planting time increases the risk of seed piece
decay, and planting into cool, dry soils can cause
delayed sprouting and emergence of the
potatoes.
Figure 6: Plant seed pieces 3 to 4 inches deep and
space 9 to 12 inches apart.
Plant tuber seed pieces 3 to 4 inches deep.  
Leaving 30 to 36 inches between rows and
spacing seed pieces 9 to 12 inches apart in
the row will generally produce an acceptable
yield of medium‐sized tubers (Figure 6).  Five
pounds of seed potatoes should plant 40
feet of row with 12 inches between seed
pieces.  You can expect  to harvest 3 to 5
pounds of potatoes per potato plant.  Larger
tubers are produced at wider plant spacings,
though some varieties, for example, Yukon
Gold, develop growth defects such as hollow
heart at a wider spacing.
Potato plants should be “hilled” when the
plants are 8 to 12 inches tall (Figure 7).  
Figure 7: When the plants are 8‐12 inches tall
they should be hilled to keep tubers covered and
prevent greening.
Mound the soil to a height of 3 to 6 inches and
approximately 12 to 15 inches from the base of
the plant.  Use care to prevent damage to the
plant roots, which may extend 8 to 12 inches
from the base of the plant. Hilling maintains
suitable soil cover for tubers as they expand.  
Tubers that break the soil surface may have
green areas that contain bitter tasting
glycoalkaloids and should not be eaten. Discard
or cut off the green portions.
Planting and Care of Potatoes in Your Garden
Avoid planting potatoes in the same location
year after year.  To lower the risk of disease
and insect problems, do not plant in areas
where tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, radishes
or beets were grown the previous year.
Water Requirements
Potatoes are very sensitive to soil moisture
and do best with a consistent soil moisture
level.  Even soil moisture levels throughout the
root zone should be maintained, though over‐
wet and saturated conditions should be
avoided.  In general, 1 inch of water per week
from rainfall or irrigation is adequate.  As
much as 2 inches per week may be required
on sandy soils with low organic matter.  
Dry soil alternating with periods of saturated
soil can result in poor quality tubers with
defects such as knobs, growth cracks, hollow
heart and internal browning.  Long periods of
excess moisture, particularly near maturity,
may lead to decreased yields and poor quality
tubers.
Pest and Disease Control
You can help alleviate pest problems by
changing the location in your home garden
where potatoes are planted, through regular
inspection, and by removing “volunteer”
potato plants, which can serve as a host for
diseases that can damage the new crop.
Shallow cultivation is preferred for weed
control.  For late season weed control, pull
weeds instead of hoeing them to prevent
tuber damage.  Mulches can be beneficial in
weed control as well as helping to maintain
soil moisture.
Scab disease may be a problem (Figure 8).  
Scab is caused by a common soil borne
organism that causes disease only on tubers.
Some varieties are more resistant than others
to scab; tolerant varieties include Onaway and
Superior.  Tubers with scab are fine to eat.  Just
peel or cut off the circular rough skin.
Figure 8: Common scab disease in potato.
Insects such as the Colorado potato beetle
(Figure 9) can be controlled by destroying eggs
which are laid on the underside of the leaf.  This
can be done by crushing the eggs or removing
the leaf with the eggs and disposing of them in
the trash away from the garden.  Additionally,
you will want to remove larva and adults by
hand, disposing of them when the numbers are
small.
The potato is subject to several seed, foliar and
tuber disorders that may affect quality and
appearance.  See Table 1 (Page  6)  for
information on the potato disorders most
common to home gardeners.
Figure 9: The Colorado potato beetle eggs, larvae
and adult stages.
Common Problems in Home Potato Gardens
Table 1.  Potato disorders, causes and remedies
Symptom Possible Cause Remedy
Seed Disorders
Rotted seed pieces Soil too wet/cold or too hot/dry at planting Plant whole seed when soil temp. is > 45°F
Foliar Disorders
Reddish brown decay or lesions on
sprout, below‐ground stem and stolons
Rhizoctonia: develops in cold wet soils and
when seed is planted too deep (> 3‐4
inches)
Plant when soil temp. is above 45°F; plant
seed pieces 3‐4 inches deep
Black, wet rot of stem, mostly at ground
level
Bacterial soft rot; referred to as ""Blackleg"" Plant whole, certified seed  
Reduced plant growth, pale green or
yellow leaf color and inward rolling of
lower leaves
Leaf‐roll virus Purchase new certified seed and control
aphids to prevent spread
Older leaves have small, dark
brown/black lesions with concentric
rings.  Usually on maturing or stressed
plants.
Early blight Remove infected foliage from garden area
Avoid plant stresses by supplying
adequate water and nutrients
Dark, water‐soaked areas on leaves and
stems. May see a white mold growth on
the underside of infected leaves.
Late blight Remove infected foliage from garden area
Keep foliage  dry by watering at the base
of the plant.
Yellowing of lower leaves and early leaf
drop
Normal maturing or nitrogen deficiency Add nitrogen to the soil and water
Leaf and petiole defoliation; presence
of larvae, adult beetles and/or bright
orange egg masses on the underside of
leaves.
Colorado potato beetle By hand collect insects in a container,
place in freezer for 1 hour and discard.
Leaf damage including: irregular holes,
dry brown leaf margins, inward leaf
rolling
Insect damage from potato leafhopper  or
cabbage looper
By hand collect insects in a container,
place in freezer for 1 hour and discard.
Tuber Disorders
Green skin Exposure to sun or other light
Develops over time
Hill around plants, store potatoes in the
dark
Raised and/or pitted corky areas Common scab Use certified seed of resistant varieties.  
Avoid lime or manure the year potatoes
are grown. Avoid carrots, beets and
radishes as prior crops
Knobby, misshapen tubers Physiological from inconsistent moisture
levels
Provide uniform growing conditions
Splits in the tuber that are healed over‐
""growth cracks""
Physiological (for example: inconsistent
moisture levels)
Provide uniform growing conditions
Large, shallow gouges in tubers White grubs (large brown/cream larvae
often curled into a C‐shape)
Gardens near long grass are at greater
risk
Brown cavities near the heart of the
tuber‐""hollow heart""
Physiological (seed pieces planted too far
apart; inconsistent moisture levels)
Plant seed closer to avoid oversized
tubers; water consistently
Planting and Care of Potatoes in Your Garden
Harvesting
Time of maturity varies for each variety.  
Indicators of tuber maturity include complete
vine death, “skin set” (tuber skin does not peel
from the flesh when pressure is applied) and
desired tuber size.  Mature tubers store better
and are less likely to bruise or decay than
immature tubers.
New or small tubers can be harvested early
without destroying the entire plant by careful
digging and removing some of the tubers.  The
remaining tubers should be left to grow and
reach full maturity.
Harvest potatoes before a severe frost.  Use a
spade or fork to loosen the soil and gently lift
the tubers out of the soil (Figure 10).  To prevent
greening and sunburn damage, do not allow
tubers to be exposed to light after harvesting.
Figure 10:   Since potatoes grow underground,
harvest time is always a big surprise!
Storage
For two to three weeks after harvest, store
tubers in the dark at 55 to 60°F with high relative
humidity to heal bruised and damaged areas that
could provide entrance for disease organisms.  
Store only the healthy potatoes that are
reasonably free from soil.
After healing, proper storage conditions should
include cool temperatures (near 40°F), darkness
to prevent greening, high humidity and adequate
ventilation.  Storing tubers in plastic bags (or any
tightly sealed container) will restrict the
movement of fresh air around the tubers and
can lead to rot.  Store above freezing (root cellar)
or garage if it does not freeze.
Acknowledgements
The authors wish to express their appreciation to
the following for efforts in producing this guide:
MSU Potato Breeding and Genetics Program.
Daniel Zarka, Joseph Coombs, Kimberly Felcher,
Karen Renner, Richard Chase, Anna Zarka, Evan
Zarka
Visit MSU’s Potato Breeding and Genetics
Program website at
https://www.msu.edu/~douchesd/
© Michigan State University and the MSU Potato Breeding and Genetics Program",
,
"l/fr iC>:fiC- - Q O "" O L
Introduction to
potato production
H.P. Beukema and D.E. van der Zaag
""""\
Pudoc Wageningen 1990
'SÀ/z ^?3/J
CIP-Data Koninklijke Bibliotheek, Den Haag
Beukema, H.P.
Introduction to potato production / H.P. Beukema and D.E. van der Zaag. -
Wageningen : Pudoc. - 111.
With ref.
ISBN 90-220-0963-7 bound
SISO 632.4 UDC 633.491 NUGI 835
Subject heading: potato production.
ISBN 90-220-0963-7
NUGI 835
The student edition of this book, distributed by the International Agricultural Centre,
Wageningen, is not for sale.
Cover: Fred Helfrich, Deventer.
Photograph: CABO Photografic Service, Wageningen.
© Centre for Agricultural Publishing and Documentation (Pudoc), Wageningen, 1990.
No part of this publication, apart from bibliographic data and brief quotations
embodied in critical reviews, may be reproduced, re-recorded or published in any
form including print, photocopy, microfilm, electronic or electromagnetic record
without written permission from the publisher: Pudoc, P.O. Box 4, 6700 AA Wageningen, the Netherlands.
Printed in the Netherlands.
Contents
12
13
13
13
14
16
18
19
21
21
23
Foreword
W o
The potato throughout the world, with special reference to the tropics
and sub-tropics
1.1 Distribution
1.2 Recent developments in production
3 Utilization
1.4 Production systems
5 Production cost
6 Farm and consumer prices
7 Potatoes in comparison with other foodstuffs
8 Possibilities to increase potato consumption in the tropics and
sub-tropics
1.9 Estimates of potential yield in the temperate zones and in the
tropical and sub-tropical zones
25
25
26
27
28
29
30
32
32
32
32
32
33
34
34
35
35
35
37
38
38
The potato plant
2.1 Haulm
2.2 Roots
2.3 Tubers
2.3.1 Skin
2.3.2 Cork and wound-periderm formation
2.4 Sprouts
Dormancy and sprout growth
3.1 Dormancy
3.2 Length of dormancy
3.2.1 Variety
3.2.2 Maturity of the tuber
3.2.3 Field and weather conditions during growth
3.2.4 Storage conditions
3.2.5 Injuries
3.3 Initiation of sprout growth
3.4 Sprout growth
3.4.1 Physiological stage of the tuber
3.4.2 Growth rate of sprouts and physiological age of the seed
3.4.3 Growth rate and de-sprouting
3.4.4 Growth rate of sprouts and temperature
39 3.4.5 Humidity and sprout growth
39 3.4.6 Light and sprout growth
39 3.4.7 Variety and sprout growth
39 3.4.8 Tuber size and sprout growth
41 3.5 Growth vigour
42 4 Crop ecophysiology
42 4.1 Introduction
42 4.2 Production determining factors
42 4.2.1 Photosynthesis
42 4.2.1.1 Introduction
43 4.2.1.2 Temperature
44 4.2.1.3 Light intensity and light interception
46 4.2.1.4 Leafage
47 4.2.1.5 Carbon dioxide concentration
50 4.2.2 Respiration
52 4.2.3 Partitioning of assimilates
53 4.3 Factors determining growing pattern
53 4.3.1 Introduction
53 4.3.2 Pre-emergence and emergence
53 4.3.3 Haulm growth - tuber growth
54 4.3.4 Factors affecting haulm growth and tuber growth
54 4.3.4.1 Day length and temperature
56 4.3.4.2 Light intensity
56 4.3.4.3 Physiological age of the seed
56 4.3.4.4 Plant density
56 4.3.4.5 Nitrogen and water
57 4.3.4.6 Varieties and species
57 4.3.4.7 Growth regulators
57 4.3.5 Interaction of factors influencing the growth pattern
57 4.3.6 Flowering
58 4.4 Tuber yield
58 4.4.1 Introduction
58 4.4.2 Tuber yield expressed as daily production and number of days
58 4.4.2.1 Daily production
60 4.4.2.2 Number of production days
60 4.4.3 Tuber yield explained in terms of intercepted PAR, utilization
coefficient of foliage, harvest index and tuber dry matter
61 5 A method for calculating tuber yield
61 5.1 Methods for simulating crop growth and/or calculating tuber
yield
62 5.2 Explanation of this simple model for calculating tuber yield
63 5.3 An example of how to calculate tuber yield, cumulative light
interception and utilization efficiency of foliage
65 5.4 Application of the model
65 5.4.1 Calculating potential yield
66 5.4.2 Identifying production contrains in a region
67 5.4.3 Explaining differences in yield in field experiments
69 6 Marketable yield and plant population
69 6.1 Yield and tuber size
70 6.2 Plant density and tuber size
71 6.3 Plant density and seed rate
71 6.3.1 Number of sprouts per seed tuber
72 6.3.2 Potential number of sprouts and plant density
72 6.3.2.1 Number of sprouts planted and number of main stems
73 6.3.2.2 Sprout damage and number of stems
73 6.3.2.3 Soil conditions and number of stems
73 6.4 Distribution of stems
73 6.4.1 Seed size and distribution of stems
74 6.4.2 Row distance and distribution of stems
74 6.5 Optimum density - seed rate
76 6.6 Density and multiplication rate
77 7 Seed requirements - seed treatment
77 7.1 Standards of health in relation to virus diseases
79 7.2 Seed size - sorting and grading
80 7.3 Physiological age and storage of seed
80 7.'4 Temporary storage of seed
81 7.5 Breaking dormancy
81 7.6 Seed cutting
82 7.6.1 Measures to prevent seed piece decay
83 7.6.2 Seed cutting in practice
83 7.7 Pre-sprouting
85 8 Soil requirements: seed bed preparation, planting and ridging
85 8.1 Impermeable layers
85 8.2 Emergence and seed bed
87 8.3 Planting depth and emergence
87 8.4 Planting depth and covering the developing tubers with soil
88 8.5 Seed bed preparation
88 8.6 Ridging and time for final earthing up
88 8.6.1 Soil moisture and soil temperature
89 8.6.2 Weed control
89 8.7 Planting and ridging systems in the Netherlands
89 8.7.1 Light soils
89 8.7.2 Medium light soils
90 8.7.3 Medium heavy soils
90 8.8 Planting and ridging in other regions
92 9 Manuring
92 9.1 Nutrients affecting yield and quality
94 9.2 Placing fertilizers
95 9.3 Farmyard manure
97 10 Water supply
97 10.1 Effect on growth, yield and tuber quality
97 10.1.1 Period between planting and emergence
97 10.1.2 Period between emergence and beginning of tuber growth
98 10.1.3 Period after the beginning of tuber growth (bulking period)
99 10.2 Amount of water needed
99 10.2.1 Evapotranspiration and transpiration
102 10.2.2 Amount of soil water available for crop growth
103 10.2.3 Water supply to replenish soil moisture used
106 10.3 Irrigation systems
106 10.3.1 Furrow irrigation
106 10.3.2 Sprinkler irrigation
108 11 Specific weather conditions affecting yield and quality
108 11.1 Hail and night frost
108 11.2 High temperatures
108 11.2.1 Second growth
109 11.2.2 Internal brown spot
110 11.2.3 Black heart
111 12 Tuber quality
111 12.1 Dry matter content
113 12.1.1 Variation in dry matter content between tubers of the same
batch
114 12.2 Reducing sugar content
114 12.2.1 Variety
114 12.2.2 Degree of maturity of the tubers
115 12.2.3 Growing conditions
116 12.2.4 Storage temperature
118 12.2.5 Physiological development of tubers
118 12.3 Discolouration after peeling and black spot
120 12.4 Discolouration after cooking
120 12.4.1 pH
120 12.4.2 Ratio of citric acid to chlorogenic acid
121 12.4.3 Factors influencing discolouration
121 12.5 Glycoalkaloids
122 12.5.1 Variety
123 12.5.2 Conditions and circumstances influencing the SG content of
tubers
124 13 Disease and pest control systems
124 13.1 Disease and its control
124 13.1.1 Integrated control of diseases
124 13.1.2 Reduction of crop losses
125 13.1.3 Preventing the introduction of diseases
125 13.2 General methods of disease and pest control
125 13.2.1 Cultural practices
126 13.2.1.1 Soil tillage, planting and ridging methods
126 13.2.1.2 Seed preparation
127 13.2.1.3 Water supply: drainage and irrigation
127 13.2.1.4 Roguing and haulm destruction
128 13.2.1.5 Harvest, handling and storage methods
128 13.2.2 Use of clean seed
128 13.2.3 Tuber disinfection
128 13.2.3.1 Pre-storage treatment
129 13.2.3.2 Wet treatment of tubers
129 13.2.3.3 Fumigation of tubers
129 13.2.3.4 Dusting tubers at the time of planting
130 13.2.4 Soil treatment
130 13.2.5 Foliar application of fungicides
131 13.2.6 Rotation
131 13.2.7 Isolation
131 13.3 Control of virus diseases
133 13.4 Insect control
134 14 Carves*
134
 < ^JAi_JHme
 of harvest^
135 14.2 Haulm destruction
136 14.2.1 Methods of haulm destruction
137 14.2.2 Stem end and vascular ring necrosis
137 14.3 Harvesting operations, transport and storage
138 14.3.1 Time between lifting and collection
138 14.3.2 ! Damage during transport and grading
139 15 Storage principles
139 15.1 Methods and duration of storage
140 15.2 Storage losses and storage requirements
140 15.2.1 Evaporation losses
141 15.2.2 Respiration losses
142 15.2.3 Sprout growth losses
142 15.2.4 Losses caused by fungi, bacteria and insects
143 15.2.5 Physiological stage
143 15.2.6 Chemical composition
144 15.3 'Aspects' affecting the keeping quality of tubers
144 15.3.1 Tuber quality and skin
144 15.3.2 Ventilation
148 15.3.3 Temperature
148 15.3.3.1 Storage in the soil
149 15.3.3.2 Naturally ventilated stores
150 15.3.3.3 Outside air cooling with forced ventilation
151 15.3.3.4 Refrigeration
152 15.3.4 Moisture and humidity
153 15.3.5 Light
154 15.3.6 Chemicals
154 15.4 Storage methods and storage capacity
155 16 Seed potatoes: quality, use, supply and production
155 16.1 Quality
155 16.1.1 Multiplication rate and degeneration rate
157 16.1.2 Physiological age and storage of seed
159 16.1.3 Fungal and bacterial diseases, nematodes
160 16.2 Seed use and supply
160 16.2.1 Methods of improving and/or maintaining seed stocks at
farm level
161 16.2.1.1 Adjustment of planting seasons
161 16.2.1.2 Selection
162 16.2.1.3 Disinfection of seed
163 16.2.2 Seed sources
164 16.3 Seed programmes
164 16.3.1 'Complete'seed programmes versus'incomplete'programmes
165 16.3.2 Organization of a seed programme and its objectives
168 16.3.3 The seed market and seed quantity and quality
168 16.3.4 Management, production and storage
169 16.3.5 Seed quality and rational use
169 16.4 Basic seed production
169 16.4.1 Clonal selection
170 16.4.2 Rapid multiplication
171 16.4.3 Multiplication in test tubes (in-vitro multiplication)
171 J^46.4.4 True potato seed (TPS)
172 16.5 Seed potato production and virus diseases
173 16.5.1 Infection sources and isolated areas
173 16.5.2 Low vector population
174 16.5.2.1 Aphid population
175 16.5.3 Vector control
176 16.5.4 Mineral oils
176 16.5.5 Maturity resistance
176 16.5.6 Resistant varieties
176 16.6 Seed quality and inspection
178 16.6.1 Field inspection
178 16.6.2 Laboratory tests
179 16.6.3 Post-harvest control
179 16.6.4 Bulk inspection
179 16.6.5 Verification plots, check plots or control plots
180 16.6.6 Seed inspection regulations
181 16.6.7 Seed certification in the Netherlands
182 16.6.7.1 Plant quarantine regulations
182 16.6.7.2 Quality of seed planted
183 16.6.7.3 Field inspection and additional laboratory tests
184 16.6.7.4 Lifting dates - haulm destruction dates
184 16.6.7.5 Post-harvest control
184 16.6.7.6 Bulk inspection - certification
185 16.6.7.7 Verification plots
185 16.6.8 Development of seed tolerances
186 17 Varieties and breeding
186 17.1 Developments in potato breeding
187 17.2 Vegetative reproduction
187 17.3 Phenotype variation
187 17.3.1 Tetraploids
188 17.3.2 Diploids
189 17.3.3 Wild and primitive potato species
190 17.3.4 Environmental variation
190 17.3.5 Expected progress in breeding
191 17.4 Breeding objectives and choice of parents
192 17.5 Flowering, pollen and seed
192 17.6 Selection procedures
193 ,17.7 Breeding methods
194 117.7.1 New methods and techniques
195 Î7.1T Varieties and their properties
195 17.9 Determination of characteristics
195 17.9.1 Indirect evaluation
196 17.9.1.1 Yield characteristics
196 17.9.1.2 Tolerance of weather conditions and physiological disorders
196 17.9.2 Direct tests
196 17.9.2.1 Potato leaf roll virus
197 17.9.2.2 Field resistance to viruses X, S, M, Y
197 17.9.2.3 Immunity to viruses A, X and Y
197 17.9.2.4 Virus tolerance
198 17.9.2.5 Resistance to common scab
198 17.9.2.6 Late blight resistance
199 17.10 Variety testing programme
200 17.10.1 Preliminary trials
200 17.10.2 Regional trials
200 17.10.3 Introductory trials
201 References
206 Appendices
208 The authors
Foreword
The contents of this book are similar to the syllabi used in the International Potato
Course, mainly intended for students from tropical and sub-tropical countries, which
is organized annually by the International Agricultural Centre at Wageningen. Soon
after the start of the Course in 1972 wider interest was expressed in these syllabi.
Therefore it was decided to bring them together in a book in a revised edition.
After 9 years the first edition is out of print. In this second edition some new
chapters have been added, some chapters have been drastically revised and in various
other chapters only a few minor alterations have been introduced. However, the
purpose of this book has not changed. It is still the intention of the authors that the
book should help the reader to discover the most important factors which influence
the production and development of the potato crop and to comprehend their interaction. For it is only with an adequate understanding of and insight into the crop that
reliable proposals for crop improvement can be made. Review literature has been
restricted as much as possible to prevent the reader from being unable see the wood
for the trees. If he or she needs more information about literature on a specific topic,
the existing potato handbooks should be consulted. We believe that our publication
does not compete with them, but will serve as a supplement to these handbooks and
to existing practical guides for potato production. At least that was our intention,
although we have to admit that some chapters more closely resemble the syllabus than
others with the consequence that some topics are discussed on more than one place.
Nevertheless, we hope that this revised publication will also find its niche.
1 The potato throughout the world, with special
reference to the tropics and sub-tropics
1.1 Distribution
After maize the potato is the most widely distributed crop in the world. It is grown
in about 140 countries, more than 100 of which are located in the tropical and subtropical zones. However, most production is still concentrated in the temperate
regions in the industrialized countries. Almost a third of the crop is produced in
developing countries, mainly the countries in Asia (table 1).
The potato originates from the mountains of South America where it has been an
important food crop for a long time. In the 16th century the potato was introduced
to Europe as a curiosity. Gradually it became a food crop, especially when varieties
were selected which were adapted to the long day conditions. In the 18th and 19th
centuries it was already an important food crop, especially for the poor in various
countries in Europe. In North America too, where immigrants from Europe had taken
tubers along with them, it found its place among other food crops. During the 19th
century the potato was introduced to several tropical and sub-tropical countries,
mainly by colonists from Europe.
In more recent years the potato has spread to many countries with warmer and drier
climates and it has become important in regions such as North Africa, the plains of
India, Bangladesh and Pakistan, Central America, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay and the
coastal plains of Peru.
1.2 Recent developments in production
During the last decade the total area of the world cropped with potatoes has
decreased slightly. The area decreased in Western Europe, but remained fairly stable
Table I. Potato production throughout the world (FAO Production Yearbook, 1986).
World
Countries with market economies
industrialized countries
developing countries
Countries with centrally planned economies
Europe (incl. USSR)
Asia
13
Number of
countries
129
27
90
8
4
Production
(106
 tonnes)
309
74
38
150
47
14 INTRODUCTION TO POTATO PRODUCTION
1
AREA
Asian (CPE]
^~^~-^____^ '~ËE ' •—.
74/ 75/ 76/ 77/ 78/ 79/ 80/ 81/ 82/ 83/ 84/
/76 /77 /78 /79 /SO /81 '82 /83 /84 /85 /86
7V76
 75/77
 76/78
 77/79
 7 % 0
 7%1
 B%2
 81/83
 82/84
 83 / 8 5
 8V6 6
Fig. 1. Land area in potatoes and potato production in countries in the Northern Hemisphere
with market economies and in centrally planned economies (CPE) 1974/76-1984/86 (3-year
moving averages; 1974/76 = 100; based on data from FAO Production Yearbooks). N.A. =
North America; W.E. = Western Europe; E.E. = Eastern Europe (CPE).
in Asian countries with centrally planned economies (CPE) (fig. 1) and increased
considerably in the developing countries with the exception of Latin America (fig. 2).
During this period total production in Europe and North America did not change
much (fig. 1), but increased considerably in the developing countries (figures 1 and
2). The greatest increase in production occurred in Asia and Africa. Total production
almost doubled in the Asian countries with market economies. This increase in
production is partly due to increases in yield and area (e.g.in Asia) or only due to an
increase in yield (e.g. in Europe, North America and Latin America) or only due to
an increase in area (e.g. in Africa).
1.3 Utilization
Less than half of the total potato production is used for human consumption (table
2). In 1982 almost a third was still used for stock feed, mainly in Eastern Europe
(Poland and USSR). Potatoes for starch' production are concentrated in the Netherlands, Eastern Europe and Japan. The use of potatoes for alcohol production is
negligible.
The large amount of potatoes used for fodder is also demonstrated by the big
THE POTATO THOUGHOUT THE WORLD 15
IbU
150
140
130
i?n
110
100
qn
<<•
AREA Africa ^^
^ /
I l l I I
79/e,
 8%2
 8,/e3
 82 /k
1ÖU
170
160
150
140
130
120
110
100
90
PRODUCTION
F.E„'-
/ ' /
/ / / /
/ / «
/ /' /^ \ / / /Africa
// /
^ /
--""'''S / ^
''''"" / /*^ ,'' / /
s^
''/' /—-—-^ LA
• ' '^ ^
^-—-^""^
i i i i i i i i i i
7V76
 n l n
 76/78
 77/79
 78/80
 7%1 ,2/84
 83/8=
Fig. 2. Land area in potatoes and potato production in developing market economies
1974/76-1984/86 (3-year moving averages; 1974/76 = 100; based on data from FAO Production Yearbooks). F.E. = Far East; N.E. = Near East, L.A. = Latin America.
difference in potato production and consumption per head of population in Eastern
Europe (table 3). Production per capita is still low in the developing countries
particularly in Africa and the Far East. Consequently, consumption per capita is also
low in these regions but is increasing in most developing countries. In Western Europe
and North America consumption per capita has decreased, but has remained fairly
stable during the last decade. In Eastern Europe consumption per capita is higher than
in Western Europe but seems to have decreased slightly.
16 INTRODUCTION TO POTATO PRODUCTION
Table 2. Utilization of the world potato crop (van der Zaag & Horton, 1983; based on datafrom
C1P, 1982).
Use
Human consumption
Stock feed
Seed
Starch
Quantity (106
 tonne)
126
88
39
6
Percentage of total
45
31
14
2
Table 3. Potato production and consumption (in kg) per capita 1980/'82 (Horton & Fano, 1985).
World
Developed market economies
North America
Western Europe
Oceania
Developing market economies
Africa
Latin America
Near East
Far East
Centrally planned economies
Asia
Eastern Europe (incl. USSR)
Production
66
89
69
129
62
15
9
31
29
10
126
54
331
Consumption
28
55
54
73
52
11
7
23
22
7
38
28
94
1.4 Production systems
In the industrialized countries, particularly in North America, and in most countries of Western Europe, potato production has been almost completely mechanized.
One hectare of ware potatoes (50 tonnes) can now be produced and stored in about
20-40 man hours only, whereas some 30 years ago, one hectare (30 tonnes) required
over 200 man hours. This reduction in labour was coupled with heavy investment in
machines and stores. Another consequence of this mechanization is the concentration
and specialization of the crop on special farms and in certain regions.
In Western Europe potato production has greatly decreased e.g. in West Germany
and France, but it has increased in the Netherlands. Approximately two thirds of the
Netherlands' total production is exported in fresh or processed form.
There is a wide variation in production systems in the developing countries,
depending on local growing and market conditions. In the Andes, Central Africa and
the Himalaya region, the potato is produced usually by small subsistence farmers who
grow less than 1-2 ha on a number of small scattered fields. In these areas a typical
rainfed crop is often subject to poor weather conditions such as drought, heavy rains,
frost, hail and typhoons. Part of the crop harvested is kept for seed. In regions where
THE POTATO THOUGHOUT THE WORLD 17
potatoes are relatively cheap, which is usually the case at high altitudes, a large
proportion of the crop is stored in a very simple way and used for home consumption.
In regions where potatoes are relatively expensive, such as in Central America and
South East Asia, the farmers sell a large proportion to purchase cheaper food with
the earnings and possibly means to improve crop production. This is certainly the case
in regions where the crop is irrigated e.g. North Africa, the plains in India, Bangladesh
and Pakistan. Owing to its short growing season the potato plays an important role
, in:
- several vegetable production regions e.g. in Sri Lanka
- in crop rotations with rice and wheat e.g. in the Punjab in India
- in intercropping with beans, maize and sugar cane (e.g. on Mauritius).
The potato is not a suitable crop for the hot and humid lowlands where temperature
is high the whole year round.
On the upper slopes of the Andes old varieties (usually S. andigenum) with a long
vegetative period are used. These varieties are highly resistant to Phytophthora
infestans and are able to regenerate when damaged by extreme weather conditions
such as frost or hail. Moreover, the field of crop which is used for home consumption
is very often planted with a mixture of several varieties. In Colombia it has been
proven that by crossing with S. tuberosum, varieties can be developed with a shorter
growing period which are still suitable for production in the mountains. In most
regions of the world varieties are used with a rather short vegetative period, particularly in the tropics and sub-tropics where under short day conditions the vegetative
period of the imported varieties from the temperate zones becomes even shorter.
In comparison with other food crops the production of the potato, expressed in
dry matter, energy or protein per hectare and per day, is high (table 4). With regard
to energy efficiency the potato may well be the best crop in the tropics and sub-tropics
and it is probably one of the best crops for protein production. Owing to its short
vegetative period (under short day growing conditions usually less than 100-120 days)
and its high efficiency in producing energy and valuable protein it is a favoured crop
in rotations where a short growing period fits in well.
Table 4. Top ranking food crops in terms of production of dry matter, edible energy and protein
in developing market economies (Horton & Fano, 1985).
Rank
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Dry matter
Cassava
Yams
Potatoes
(t/ha)
Sweet potatoes
Rice
Carrots
Cabbages
Bananas
Wheat
Maize
3.0
2.4
2.2
2.1
1.9
1.7
1.6
1.5
1.3
1.3
Energy (MJ/ha
Potatoes
Yams
Carrots
Maize
Cabbages
Sweet potatoes
Rice
Wheat
Cassava
Eggplants
per day)
216
182
162
159
156
152
151
135
121
120
Protein (kg/ha per day)
Cabbages
Dry broad
Potatoes
Dry peas
Eggplants
Wheat
Lentils
Tomatoes
Chickpeas
Carrots
beans
2.0
1.6
1.4
1.4
1.4
1.3
1.3
1.2
1.1
1.0
18 INTRODUCTION TO POTATO PRODUCTION
1.5 Production cost
It is very difficult to make a correct comparison of production costs between regions
or countries. This is due to the wide variation in production conditions and production systems and by differences in methods of calculating these costs. Nevertheless it
is evident that in the developing countries as a whole, the production cost per unit
of energy and protein for potatoes is on average two or three times higher than for
rice or wheat (bread), whereas in an industrialized country such as the Netherlands,
these costs are only slightly higher for potatoes than for wheat or sugar beet (sugar)
(table 5).
Some information about the structure of the production costs may be useful. Table
6 gives some indication about this. In the six developing countries mentioned in this
Table 5. Production cost and consumer price of potatoes and some other foods (in US $) in 1981
(partly after van der Zaag & Horton, 1983).
Yield Production cost Consumer price'
(t/ha)
(ha) energy protein energy protein
(10« kJ) (kg) (10« kJ) (kg)
Developing countries
Potatoes
Wheat (bread) \
Rice
Netherlands
Potatoes
Wheat (bread)
Sugar beet (sug
uf
ar)
10.5
1.4
2.1
45
6.5
50
1520
250
380
2500
1400
1900
47
14
18
18
17
14
7
2
4
3
2
-
114
47
52
95
116
52
18
5
11
15
13
-
1. Edible part of the foods.
Table 6. Cost structure for the potato crop in some selected countries (van der Zaag & Horton,
1983).
Structure
Labour
Equipment
(incl. fuel)
Seed
Fertilizers
chemical
organic
Pesticides
Peru
16
10
29
14
14
17
Colombia
34
6
24
22
0
14
Bangladesh
20
15
36
26
2
1
India
18
6
45
18
9
4
Kenya
54
6
21
4
8
7
Rwanda
62
0
38
0
0
0
Netherlands
20
38
20
12
0
10
1. Fixed costs not included.
THE POTATO THOUGHOUT THE WORLD 19
table, labour and seed potatoes form the major costs (34 % and 32 % respectively),
whilst in the Netherlands the cost of equipment predominates.
1.6 Farm and consumer prices
Obviously a crop which is liable to wide variation in yield and which cannot be
easily stored well in a hot climate, will show wide variations in farm and consumer
prices. In almost all developing countries where potato production is of some importance, prices drop sharply at harvest time in spite of growing more than one crop per
year (fig. 3).
Nevertheless, the farm price as a percentage of the retail price seems to be much
larger in developing countries than in some industrialized countries (table 7).
As the consumer (or retail) price can vary greatly even in one region, it will be
difficult to make a correct comparison between the consumer price of potatoes and
some other foods for different parts of the world. However, table 8 gives the reader
at least some indication about the price ratio between potatoes and other foods in
various parts of the world. As bread or wheat flour is often subsidized and, moreover,
as in most developing countries potatoes must be considered as a vegetable, it is better
to compare potato prices with vegetable prices (table 9). Potatoes appear to be much
cheaper than most common vegetables.
S H/
120
110
100
90
80
70
60
.Harvest 2m 3m 4m 5m, .Harvest 2m 3m 4m 5m,
2 4 6 8 10 12 H 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 3« 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52
weeks
Fig. 3. Average constant weekly wholesale prices for potatoes in Wakulina market, Nairobi
1973-77 (two-week moving average) (source: Ministry of Agriculture in Kenya, published by
Durr & Lorenzl, 1980).
Table 7. Farm price as a percentage of retail price in selected regions and countries (number of
countries between brackets) based on FAO, unpublished; ILO, 1978; van der Zaag & Horton,
1983).
Africa (10)
Latin America (6)
Near East (2)
52
69
54
Far East (7)
North America (2)
The Netherlands
61
22
33
20 INTRODUCTION TO POTATO PRODUCTION
Table 8. Average cost (in US $) of 106
 kJ food energy and 1 kg protein from potatoes, bread and
rice 1977 (number of countries between brackets) (van der Zaag & Horton, 1983).
Potatoes Bread Rice
energy / protein energy protein energy protein
Developed countries
USA
Western Europe (14)
Eastern Europe (4)
Developing countries
Africa (20)
Latin America (13)
Near East (4)
Far East (9)
129
87
126
171
129
142
90
20
14
20
27
20
22
24
90
03
83
61
77
34
61
10
12
9
7
9
4
7
56
79
85
50
40
61
24
11
16
17
10
8
12
5
fresh weight
100
193
157
119
139
energy
100
911
284
338
459
protein
100
186
314
238
139
Table 9. Relationship between the average consumer price of potatoes and some other selected
vegetables in the capitals of several developing countries (number of cities on which the price is
based is given between brackets) (Preise und Preinsindizes im Ausland, Reihe 11, 1984).
Vegetables Consumer price per unit
Potatoes (10)
Tomatoes (9)
Onions (9)
Carrots (6)
Cabbages (5)
Why is the retail price ratio of potatoes, as expressed in terms of energy and protein,
with other staple foods so much higher in developing countries than say, in the
Netherlands (tables 5 and 8)? It seems very likely that the relatively high production
cost of potatoes in most developing countries is the main reason for this fairly high
consumer price and that this high price is largely not caused by a high marketing
margin (table 7), as is often supposed. Differences in the position of the potato crop
in the various growing regions are so wide that after this very general description and
conclusion, a more specific description would be useful.
In the uplands of the tropics and sub-tropics the potato is usually the main food
crop and can compete easily in price with other foodstuffs.
In the irrigated regions at harvest and shortly thereafter the potato is competitive
in price with non-subsidized staple food, e.g. with rice in Bangladesh. After this period
the potato should be considered as a vegetable.
In several regions where the potato has been introduced recently, the potato is still
often a luxury vegetable, but with the potential to become a cheap vegetable provided
that the production conditions are not marginal.
THE POTATO THOUGHOUT THE WORLD 21
1.7 Potatoes in comparison with other foodstuffs
From the point of view of nutritive value the potato is competitive with other
foodstuffs (table 10). The reader is referred to 'The potato in the human diet' by
Jennifer A. Woolfe for further information.
1.8 Possibilities to increase potato consumption in the tropics and sub-tropics
In the industrialized countries potato consumption has decreased with increase in
income. But for the 51 developing countries with a low consumption per capita it has
been estimated that potato consumption will increase by about 2 % if the price
decreases by 1 %, and that consumption will increase by the same percentage as the
increase in income (van der Zaag & Horton, 1983). A decrease in the retail price
should be accomplished by reducing the production cost per unit weight, which can
be done in two ways: by reducing production cost per ha while maintaining yield and
by increasing the yield while holding the cost per hectare steady.
Reducing the production cost per hectare will be achieved by reducing the major
costs which, in the developing countries, are labour and seed potatoes (table 6).
Although this should receive a great deal of attention, even more may be expected
from an increase in yield.
Figure 4 shows that during the last 15 years much has been achieved in the
developing countries. During the period 1965-1980, the accumulated calculated
increase in yield expressed in terms of energy and protein in all developing countries
with market economies was even higher for potatoes than for wheat and rice (van der
Zaag & Horton, 1983). There is no reason to suppose that this increase in yield cannot
be continued, although it should not be expected that a yield level can be attained
in the tropics and sub-tropics which is similar to the yield level in the temperate zones.
To prove this statement we must introduce the concept of potential yield or biological
yield.
7V76
 75/77
 76 / 7 8 ""/79
 7%0
 79/81
 8%2 % ""/u 83/85
 8'/86
Fig. 4. Potato yields in developing market economies 1974/76-1984/86 (3-year moving averages 1974/76 = 100; based on data from FAO Production Yearbooks). F.E. = Far East; N.E.
= Near East; L.A. = Latin America.
22 INTRODUCTION TO POTATO PRODUCTION
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"The University of California Vegetable Research and Information Center
VEGETABLE GARDENING
Growing Potatoes
The authors are Harwood Hall, Farm Advisor, Susan Wada, Technician,
 and Ronald E. Voss, Extension Vegetable Specialist.
POINTS TO REMEMBER
Plant certified seed potatoes.
One potato vine will yield from 2 to 4
pounds of potatoes.
Potatoes are a cool season crop.
Potatoes need a light, well-drained soil.
Store potatoes in a cool, dark place.
PLANTING CALENDAR
North Coast (Monterey County-north):
March through June
South Coast (San Luis Obispo
County-south): March through May, July
through August
Interior Valleys: December through March,
July through August
Imperial and Coachella Valleys: November
through January
Division of Agricultural Sciences LEAFLET
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 2802
Page 1
The University of California Vegetable Research and Information Center
VARIETIES
White Rose: long white; early medium
maturity (100 to 120 days after planting);
does not store well; good for boiling and
potato salad.
Red la Soda: round red; early maturity (90 to
100 days after planting); does not store well;
good for boiling and potato salad.
Norgold Russet: blocky russet; early
maturity (90 to 100 days); does not store
well; good for baking and boiling.
Kennebec: blocky white; early medium
maturity (100 to 120 days); stores
moderately well; good for frying and hash
browns.
Russet Burbank: long russet; late maturity
(120 to 140 days); stores well; good for
baking, frying, hash browns; doesn't grow
well in hot areas.
SOIL PREPARATION
Potatoes need -a well-drained sandy-to-loam
soil. They do not grow well in heavy soils.
Cultivate the seedbed well, making sure that
it is in a loose, friable condition before
planting. Mulching the soil with an organic
mulch before planting is a good idea.
Fertilize at planting time following
instructions given below.
FERTILIZATION
Before planting apply 3 pounds of fertilizer
labeled 5-10-5 or 10-10-5, or equivalent, to
100 square feet of soil. (These numbers refer
to the respective percentages of nitrogen,
phosphorus, and potassium in the fertilizer.
Law requires that these percentages be listed
on all commercial fertilizer labels.) Fertilizer
may be mixed into the soil or applied as a
band. To apply as a band, dig a furrow
alongside the planting row about 2'/2 inches
deeper than you'll plant seed pieces; sprinkle
the fertilizer evenly along this furrow and
cover with at least 2 inches of soil before
planting.
PLANTING METHODS
Potatoes are started from sections of tubers.
Buy certified seed potatoes. (The California
Department of Food and Agriculture
annually publishes a list of certified seed
growers. However, not all of them will
supply small quantities. Contact local
suppliers ahead of planting to insure that
you will be able to purchase the necessary
amount of certified seed.) Non-certified seed
may have been treated with a sprout
inhibitor and probably has potato virus
disease, which will reduce yield. Cut seed
potatoes into pieces weighing from 1'/z to 2
ounces, each having one or more eyes. Store
cut pieces at room temperature and
preferably in a humid place for 1 to 2 days
before planting to allow the cut surface to
form a callus. This decreases rotting.
Prepare a planting furrow 3 inches deep,
drop seed pieces into the furrows, and fill
the furrows to ground level. The rows
should be 36 to 39 inches apart and the seed
pieces planted 6 to 10 inches apart,
depending on the size of the potatoes you
want to harvest.
Leave the furrow this way for 4 to 6 weeks,
and then add 3 more inches of soil so that
the seed pieces will be buried 6 inches deep.
IRRIGATION
Potatoes are shallow-rooted and need
frequent light irrigation, 1 to 2 times a week.
Constant soil moisture is necessary. If soil
dries after tubers have formed, a second
growth will start when soil gets moist. This
Page 2
The University of California Vegetable Research and Information Center
will cause knobby potatoes and multiples.
Alternate wet and dry conditions can also
cause ""hollow heart,"" or cavities near the
center of the potato.
CULTIVATION
Cultivate carefully to remove weeds, taking
care not to injure roots and tubers near
ground surface.
PEST CONTROL
The two insects most likely to cause
problems are aphids and potato tubermoth.
Standard garden procedures for killing
aphids may be used. Potato tubermoth can
be avoided by seeing that potato tubers are
always covered with soil and that the soil
does not crack. The only disease that can be
chemically controlled is blight. Fungicide
sprays or powders may be used.
HARVESTING
Small immature tubers can be ""robbed"" from
growing plants if care is taken not to disturb
the roots and remaining tubers on the plant.
However, most of the crop should be
harvested when vines die and/or the skin of
the tubers is firm, not flaky. Remove vines
before digging.
Potatoes that mature in the fall where frost
and/or heavy rains are not a threat can be
left in the ground until needed. If tubers are
left in the ground, take care not to expose
them to light or soil cracks.
After digging, potatoes should be held at
room temperature for a week, then ideally
stored at 40' to 50a F. They will keep for 6
to 15 weeks at 40"" to 50' F if properly cured
(depending on the variety). Higher
temperatures decrease their storageability.
They will keep longest at 36a to 40' F, but
may taste sweet and fry dark.
Potatoes are a good source of vitamin C. When freshly cooked, one medium potato provides one-half the adult
recommendation (RDA') for vitamin C. It also provides small but useful amounts of other vitamins and minerals
such as thiamin, niacin and iron. By itself, the potato is relatively low in calories; but that doesn't include the
caloric content of the gravy or sauce often served with it. One medium potato contains about 75 calories, only a
little more than the caloric content of an apple. The potato is exceptionally low in sodium content, making it useful
for sodium-restricted diets. It also is essentially fat-free and easy to digest.
Recommended Daily Dietary Allowance, National Research Council, revised 1974.
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
This information is provided by Cooperative Extension, an educational agency of the University of California and the United States Department
of Agriculture. Support for Cooperative Extension is supplied by federal, state, and county governments. Cooperative Extension provides the
people of California with the latest scientific information in agriculture and family consumer sciences. It also sponsors the 4-H Youth Program.
Cooperative Extension representatives, serving 56 counties in California, are known as form, home or youth advisors. Their offices usually are
located in the county seat. They will be happy to provide you with information in their fields of work.
The University of California's Cooperative Extension Programs are available to all, without regard to race, color, or national origin.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United States Department of
Agriculture. James B. Kendrick, Jr., Director, Cooperative Extension, University of California.
Page 3 ",
"ORGANIC POTATO PRODUCTION ON
CALIFORNIA’S CENTRAL COAST:
A Guide for Beginning Specialty Crop Growers
Introduction
Potatoes can be a good addition to a small-scale, mixed
specialty crop system. With access to the proper tools
for mechanized weed management, hilling, and harvest,
they are relatively easy to grow. Multiple varieties offer an array of
shapes, sizes, and colors to make potatoes an excellent choice for
direct sales, including Community Supported Agriculture (CSA),
farmers’ markets, specialty markets, and restaurants.
The Central Coast’s climate is ideal for potato production. Yields
can reach an impressive 10 tons per acre. This guide describes the
steps involved in growing potatoes organically, reviews equipment
needs, and provides information on “new” and “creamer” potato
growth habits and recommended varieties.
Features of potato
production
• Can be harvested as “new,” “creamer,”
or fully cured storage potatoes, all
of which can be grown on the same
production schedule
• Easy to store when fully cured
• Mechanization makes weed
management and harvest extremely
efficient
• A good rotation crop where symphylan
pressure is high, being extremely
tolerant to symphylan feeding
pressure; they have been shown to
reduce symphylan populations in
subsequent crops
potatoes
2 | Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems
potatoes
PRODUCTION PRACTICES — SUMMARY
Soil type and pH
• Potatoes grow best in loose, well-drained, non-crusting,
sandy loam or loam soils with high organic matter content
and pH between 5.5 and 6.5.
Site selection
• Isolate successive potato plantings, and plant as far as
possible from other susceptible crops such as tomatoes
to minimize the risk and impact of late blight (Phytopthera
infestans).
Fertility requirements
• Fall/winter cover crop (bell beans, triticale, vetch).
• Compost, as needed (5 tons/acre).
Soil temperature
• Seed pieces can germinate when soil temperatures are cool
(less than 55ºF).
Bed spacing
• Bed spacing of 48” allows for a balance of workability and
yield potential.
• 30” bed spacing is possible if using 4-gang Lilliston
cultivators, disc hillers, or shovels.
• 60” beds provide for ease of field operations, but may
reduce yield potential.
• Potatoes grow best planted in a single line per row to
allow for “hilling” (see page 5) to ensure that potatoes are
covered with soil. Potatoes exposed to sunlight turn green
and become unmarketable.
Plant spacing within row
• 8–12” between plants in the row. Closer spacing will result in
smaller tubers (see page 9, New and Creamer
Potatoes).
Planting size and depth
• Use 1.5–3 ounce seed pieces with at least 2 “eyes.”
• Place seed pieces 2–4” deep.
Irrigation
• Pre-irrigate beds with overhead sprinklers and cultivate for
weed management.
• Use drip irrigation after planting; overhead irrigation
increases risks of fungal infection, Phytopthora infestans (late
blight).
Days to maturity
• Most varieties suitable for the Central Coast region reach full
maturity in 100 to 120 days.
• Harvest “new” potatoes at the growth stage following
bloom when the canopy is full, typically 8–9 weeks after
planting, depending on variety and weather.
• Harvest “creamers” 10–12 weeks after planting, depending
on variety and weather.
Crop rotation
• Rotate ground out of solanums and strawberries for a
minimum of 4 years to break disease cycles.
Organic Potato Production on California’s Central Coast | 3
potatoes
PRODUCTION SEQUENCE — OVERVIEW
**Some growers use a flame weeder
at this stage, ideally just before
potato leaf emergence, but even just
after emergence, if necessary.
(crop day -25*)
In spring, mow cover crop
to facilitate breakdown. (crop day -25) Incorporate cover crop residue.
(crop day -11) Form beds with rolling cultivator or listing shovels.
(crop day -10) Pre-irrigate beds with overhead irrigation (1–1.5”).
Wait for dry down and weed emergence.
(crop day -3) Cut potato seed in preparation for planting.
(crop day -1) Work bed surface lightly with cultivator
to terminate weeds and re-form beds.
(crop day 0) Create a trench down the center
of the bed using a small furrowing shovel or an
“Alabama” shovel. Plant potatoes, cover seed
lightly with 3–4” of soil using a rolling cultivator
(run slowly).
(crop day 11) As soon as first weeds appear,
cultivate furrow bottoms and bed sides with
sweeps and knives. In the same pass, run
chisels in furrow bottoms to break tractor tire
compaction.**
(crop day 11) Set up drip irrigation
(crop days 30, 40) Hill plants with soil
as potato stems elongate (usually twice
prior to bloom).
(crop day 30) Begin drip irrigation.
Note: Drip irrigate to maintain even
moisture until the tubers for main crop
harvest are ~75% of desired size, then cut
irrigation and let vines die. Potatoes will
continue to size up.
(crop days 55–95) Check tuber size after
flowering. Harvest new potatoes at 8–9 weeks
after planting; creamers at 10–12 weeks.
(crop day 60) Spot weed large flowering weeds.
(crop day 116) Run overhead irrigation (0.25–0.5”) prior to
harvest of main crop to make harvest easier and avoid scuffing.
(crop days 120, 140) Harvest main potato crop.
(crop days 160) Pull drip lines.
(crop day 180) Disc plants,
prepare soil for fall cover crop. Drill cover crop
seed prior to
fall/winter rains.
*Numbers in parentheses
refer to crop day, with crop
day 0 = planting day, based on
a typical season at the CASFS/
UC Santa Cruz Farm.
See Appendix (page 12) for
more on crop days and related
activities.
(crop day -21) Begin chitting potato seed.
4 | Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems
potatoes
Production Practices —
Additional Details
Soil type
Potatoes grow best on light textural soil classes: sands and
silts with organic matter (O.M.) >3%. Potato tubers have a
high respiration rate, and require ample oxygen in the soil.
Lighter soils let in air that allow potatoes to breathe. Lighter
soil textures also offer less physical resistance to tuber
formation; thus the plant can put more caloric energy into
forming large, cosmetically even tubers. Lighter, sandier soils
also make harvest easier.
Heavier soils higher in clay content tend to provide better
fertility and water holding capacity, but can cause tuber
deformation, and make washing challenging. Although
you cannot change the texture of soil, you can enhance its
structure by increasing its organic matter content by adding
compost and incorporating cover crops (green manures).
Fertility
Potatoes yield well when planted following incorporation of
a mixed legume/cereal cover crop, e.g., bell bean (30–35%),
peas (20–30%), vetch (30%), and triticale (10–15%). When
incorporated well, the cover crop residue leaves the soil loose
and friable, and microbial decomposition releases nutrients to
provide adequate fertility (available nutrients).
If applying compost, use a rate of not more than 5 tons per
acre (100 lb. N per acre) to avoid over-application of nitrogen
(N). Excess nitrogen can:
• Make plants more susceptible to late blight (Phytopthora
infestans)
• Delay tuber set and maturation
• Increase water content in tubers, which leads to a shorter
storage life and more post-harvest physiological disorders
Bed spacing
Plant potatoes in a single line system to facilitate hilling.
Depending on equipment available and standard bed spacing
used on your farm, beds can be spaced from 30” up to 60”
center to center. Hilling potatoes is more challenging with
narrower beds; 4-gang Lilliston cultivators, disc hillers, or
shovels are potential options with this spacing. Wider bed
spacing means loss of yield potential. Consider the trade-offs
between ease of hilling operations, efficiencies of land use,
and labor required to adjust equipment. Take into account the
other crops you grow, and choose the bed spacing that works
best for your farming system as a whole.
Timing of planting
Spring is the best time to plant potatoes on California’s
Central Coast. Potato seed pieces can easily germinate in cool
soils (less than 55ºF). Plant following incorporation and initial
breakdown of cover crop residue, typically in late April or early
May. The goal is for the crop to develop prior to the onset
of foggy conditions that favor late blight infestations in late
summer (August). Staggered plantings are not recommended
in areas where fog may be a factor. Some growers successfully
plant in late July, growing a fresh market crop for fall holidays.
In inland valleys, potatoes are usually planted in February
so that tuber maturation takes place prior to high summer
temperatures that can delay tuber formation.
Preparing seed potatoes for planting
“Certified seed” sold for planting has been inspected and
meets the tolerance for pest and disease disorder symptoms
established by an agricultural certification program (e.g.,
White Rock Specialties seed is certified by the Colorado
Board of Agriculture). This use of the word “certified seed”
is complementary to, and distinct from the meaning of seed
that is “certified organic.” The National Organic Program
(NOP) requires that organic growers purchase organic seed,
unless the variety needed (or an equivalent variety) is not
commercially available in an appropriate form, quantity, or
quality.
To prepare seed for planting (also called “greening” or
“chitting”), bring potatoes to room temperature (or warm up
your cooler to 50–55ºF) two to three weeks before planting to
initiate sprouting. Expose to bright shade, but do not let them
dry out while sprouting.
Seed potatoes that are large enough can be cut into smaller
pieces to extend planting stock volume. Cut tubers into
FIGURE 1. Preparing seed pieces for planting. Photo: Elizabeth Birnbaum
Organic Potato Production on California’s Central Coast | 5
potatoes
1.5–3-ounce pieces (a little larger than a hen’s egg) with at
least two “eyes” on each cut piece (Figure 1). Cut through the
center of the potato and allow the cut to heal over for 3 days
prior to planting. Seed cut immediately before planting may
experience decay in the ground, especially if soil is too dry or
too warm at planting.
Planting technique
Because tubers form adjacent to and above the seed piece,
place seed as deep as possible. Deep planting leaves room to
FIGURE 3. Plant potato seed into furrows created by furrowing or
Alabama shovels. Photo: Martha Brown
FIGURE 4. Potatoes developing in a “hill.” Illustration: Laura Vollset
FIGURE 2. Alabama shovels with “drop tubes” for placing seed pieces.
Photo: Martha Brown
“hill” the plant as the stems elongate (see below). However,
plant no deeper than the depth of your harvester to reduce
risk of slicing potatoes during harvest.
Create a depression down the middle of the planting bed—to
the depth of the furrow if possible— using a small furrowing
shovel or an “Alabama” shovel (Figure 2). Drop the seed
pieces into this depression or trough (Figure 3) and cover
with 3–4” of soil (enough to cover the seed pieces and keep
them from drying out) by re-forming the bed using a rolling
cultivator, reverse disc hillers, or shovels.
Hilling potatoes
Re-form the beds after planting deep, then again after the
plants emerge, building the beds higher to keep potatoes
covered with soil as the stems elongate (Figure 4). This
re-forming of the bed, or “hilling,” is essential for potato
production because it blocks sunlight from the tubers as they
form. Any light contact causes “greening”; the presence
of chlorophyll and potential for accumulation of toxins
(glycoalkaloids), render any green tuber unmarketable. Hilling
also facilitates weed management and boosts yields.
Potatoes grow remarkably fast once they emerge (usually
about 14 days after planting). Do the first mechanical hilling
once plants reach a height of 8–10” (within 30–33 days after
planting). Use a rolling cultivator during this time of initial
growth to smother any weeds germinating in the bed, and to
keep furrows clean of annual weeds. Work the furrows with
shallow chisels to break tractor wheel compaction and deepen
the furrows. Do the second hilling 5–7 days after the first
(Figure 5). On small plots, hilling can be done by hand with a
shovel.
6 | Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems
potatoes
IRRIGATION SEQUENCE
• Pre-irrigate with a minimum of 1–1.5” using
overhead irrigation (if available) to bring up weeds
and provide adequate deep soil moisture to
support the early growth stage of the potato seed
pieces. Cultivate before planting. (See Tillage, Bed
Formation, and Planting to Moisture in this Grower
Guide series for additional details.)
• Plant seed pieces into residual moisture.
• Lay drip line at time of planting or once plants
have emerged.
• Initiate drip irrigation after plants have emerged
and are well established (between 2 and 4 weeks
after planting), and the first hilling has taken
place. Depending on weather and soil conditions,
pre-irrigation moisture deep in the soil may be
adequate to support up to 3 or 4 weeks of growth.
• Schedule irrigations based on regional
evapotranspiration (Et) data (available at cimis.
water.ca.gov):
– When plants are at 25% canopy (percentage of
the bed’s soil covered by crop foliage), irrigate
at a rate roughly equal to 25% of the estimated
daily Et.
– Follow this percent canopy rule to determine
irrigation rate; when plants are at 100% canopy,
irrigation will match Et.
– During the period of tuber enlargement (usually
days 60–90), field capacity should not drop
below 60–65%. Uneven irrigation in this phase
leads to uneven tuber formation and jeopardizes
marketability.
– Water can be cut to “dry off” and cure crop
once plants start to show signs of senescence
(yellowing of leaves) and tubers have reached
~75% of marketable size. Wait another 10–14
days before harvest for skins to cure.
– Apply .25–.5” of water prior to harvesting the
main crop to make harvest easier, and to avoid
scuffing spuds, which can compromise salability
and storage life.
Irrigation
Drip irrigation is the best option for potatoes, allowing you to
control irrigation rate and timing, and apply water directly to
the growing plants. At planting, set the drip lines in the center
of the bed on top of the seed pieces; cover it as you close the
furrow and bury it further as you hill the potatoes (note that
you can also lay drip tape after the plants have emerged). See
the irrigation sequence at right.
Potatoes can be irrigated overhead, but this method favors
development of late blight due to prolonged periods of leaf
wetting. If overhead sprinklers are used, irrigate mid-day
following dry-down of foliage from morning dew, and shut
down the sprinklers early enough for leaves to dry prior to
sunset.
FIGURE 5. Hilled potatoes at the UC Santa Cruz Farm.
Photo: Elizabeth Birnbaum
Organic Potato Production on California’s Central Coast | 7
potatoes
GROWTH PHASES
Phase 1: Vegetative establishment, 0–30 days
Most vegetative growth occurs during this phase.
Adequate pre-plant nitrogen (in the nitrite form)
ensures a large, effective plant that can support tuber
development through sugar and starch translocation.
Phase 2: Stolen and tuber initiation, 30–60 days
Flowering begins at approximately 40–50 days (Figure
6). Dig “new” potatoes during this phase (see sidebar,
page 9).
Phase 3: Tuber enlargement, 60–90 days
It is critical to provide adequate irrigation during this
phase. Dry down should be less pronounced than in
phases 1 and 2; never let the plants get to less than
60–65% field capacity. Dig “creamer” potatoes during
this phase (see sidebar, page 10).
Phase 4: Tuber enlargement, skin set and curing,
90–120 days
Tubers enlarge, increase in starch content and
individual varietal characteristics. Skins set and
thicken, allowing for long-term storage. FIGURE 6. Potatoes begin to flower at approximately 40–50 days post
planting. Photo: Elizabeth Birnbaum
8 | Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems
potatoes
Harvest and harvesting equipment
 “New” potatoes (see next page) must be harvested by hand.
Push a garden fork under the cluster of potatoes and gently
lift the plant by the leaves as you push down on the fork
handle to raise the tubers to the surface (Figures 7 and 8).
New potatoes are extremely delicate; handle very gently to
avoid damaging the skin.
When harvesting mature tubers by hand, the process is the
same. Take extra care not to “fork” through the potatoes, but
get under the tubers.
FIGURE 7. Harvest new potatoes using a garden fork. Photo: Elizabeth Birnbaum
FIGURE 8. Handle new potatoes gently to avoid damaging the fragile skins. Photo: Elizabeth Birnbaum
Use a dedicated potato harvester or an under-cutter
pulled behind a tractor for mechanized harvest. For potato
production areas much larger than one-quarter acre, it
is best to harvest mature tubers with a dedicated potato
harvester, such as a single-row PTO- operated digger with
an undercutter bar and shaker cage. The harvester lifts the
spuds and leaves them on the soil surface to pick up (Figures
9 and 10). Break the furrow tire compaction with chisels before
harvest to ensure that the under-cutter or harvester can get
below the lowest tuber and work effectively.
Organic Potato Production on California’s Central Coast | 9
potatoes

CREAMER POTATOES offer another niche market
that can generate some early season income due to
high demand and relatively low supply.
Creamer potatoes are similar to new potatoes in that
they are small (2–4” in diameter, 2–4 ounces). They
may be dug early or at full maturation. The main
distinction is that they have thicker skins and are thus
easier to dig and pack than new potatoes, and rival
storage potatoes in their shelf life.
Although not as moist, light, and sweet as new
potatoes, they do have an intense, earthy taste and
texture that makes them more distinctive than full-size
storage potatoes, and offer more nutritional value
than new potatoes.
Creamer potatoes show themselves off both on
display and on the plate. They can be displayed for
loose pack in small net bags by mixing varieties,
shapes, sizes, and colors.
As with new potatoes, choose early varieties with
plants that mature at <90–100 days. In addition to
those listed for new potatoes, preferred varieties
include:
‘Austrian Crescent’ (fingerling)
‘Early Ohio’
‘Viking Purple’
Fingerling varieties (2–3” long) can also be adapted
for this format.
Tips for Growing Creamer Potatoes
• Use close in-row spacing when planting (5–6”)
• Grow for 10–12 weeks
• Kill vines (mechanically)
• Dry off (no irrigation) 7–10 days before harvest to
set skin
• Hand dig, box, and refrigerate
• Wash only when needed for packing and
distribution
NEW POTATOES are simply young, small, freshly-dug
potatoes. They must be marketed quickly (within a few
days of harvest) and will last only 7–10 days (refrigerated).
The possibility of digging 100–200 pounds per day for
2–3 weeks offers early season income and a premium
price. Also, if well done, new potatoes can create a loyal
following of customers and improve your “brand.”
In theory, any variety can be used for new potatoes, but
those described as early season (maturing in <90–100
days) work best, as they tend to set ample tubers early,
and size up evenly.
Suggested varieties include–
‘Red Gold’
‘Early Red Norland’ (distinct from ‘Dark Red Norland’,
which is a high-yielding, mid-season variety)
‘Mountain Rose’
Planting seed of the above varieties are easy to source.
They are all spectacularly early and high yielding,
producing 2.5–3 pounds/plant at 60+ days from planting.
The following also offer a reasonable ratio of pounds per
plant to days in the ground (most are red varieties)–
‘Anoka’ (very ‘Cherry Red’ ‘Purple Viking’
early, difficult ‘Desiree’ ‘Red LaSoda’
to source) ‘Early Purple’ ‘Rose Gold’
‘Caribe’ ‘Kerr’s Pink’ ‘Yukon Gold’
Tips for Growing New Potatoes
• Use small, whole seed potatoes (1–2 ounces)
• Plant seed 8–9” apart, using standard row spacing
• Plant 2–4” deep in 6–8” deep trenches
• Hill plants at 20–30 days from emergence
• Dig when size of 6–10 tubers reaches 2–8 ounces,
usually 60–75 days post planting
• Dig when soil is dry; box and let sit 1–2 days, then wash
and pack
• Note that some nicked skins are inevitable with new
potatoes. It identifies them as truly new and freshly dug.
“NEW” POTATOES AND “CREAMERS”
Both new potatoes and creamers offer good niche marketing possibilities, including CSA projects, farmers’
markets, roadside stands, and restaurants.
10 | Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems
potatoes
FIGURE 10. Shaker cage deposits harvested potatoes on the soil surface.
Photo: Martha Brown
FIGURE 9. Example of a PTO-driven harvester with “shaker cage.” Photo: Martha Brown
Post-harvest handling
Tubers going direct to market are usually washed immediately
after harvest, especially if the soil is prone to sticking. Tubers
harvested for storage should not be washed, as water can
spread disease (especially fungal spores that cause late blight),
and increase potential for higher incidence of infection while
in storage.
Crop rotation
Because potatoes are host to many of the same diseases
commonly found on other Solanaceae family crops (tomatoes,
peppers, etc.), as well as strawberries, rotate ground out of
solanums and strawberries for a minimum of 4 years.
Late blight (Phytophthora infestans) is the primary disease
of potatoes in the Central Coast region. Because the fungal
spores that cause late blight move easily with water and
wind, it is best to keep a significant buffer between blocks of
potatoes and tomatoes since the blight will most often start on
the foliage of potatoes (early season) and spread to tomatoes.
Organic Potato Production on California’s Central Coast | 11
potatoes
Organic Potato Production on the California’s Central Coast: A Guide for Beginning Specialty Crop
Growers by Jim Leap, Darryl Wong, Orin Martin, and Kirstin Yogg-Comerchero, with contributions from
Ann Baier and Doug O’Brien. Edited by and Martha Brown and Ann Baier.
© 2017 Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems (CASFS), University of California, Santa
Cruz. This information was developed for beginning specialty crop growers and is based on practices
used at the UCSC Farm. CASFS is a research, education, and public service program at the University
of California, Santa Cruz. Learn more at casfs.ucsc.edu, or contact casfs@ucsc.edu, (831) 459-3240.
Additional Grower Guides and related information are available online at casfs.ucsc.edu/about/
publications. This publication was supported by the Specialty Crop Block Grant Program at the U.S.
Department of Agriculture (USDA) through Grant 14-SCBGP-CA-0006. Its contents are solely the
responsibility of the authors and do not necessarily represent the official views of the USDA.
Photos, p. 1: Left, Martha Brown; top right, Elizaeth Birnbaum, bottom right, CASFS;
p. 2: Elizabeth Birnbaum. Icon illustrations, p. 3, Laura Vollset.
 ADDITIONAL RESOURCES
1156 High Street
Santa Cruz, CA 95064
casfs@ucsc.edu
casfs.ucsc.edu
publications-and-presentations-ospudproject
Pest management strategic plan for
organic potato production in the west.
Summary of workshops held on February
16, 2006, Buhl, Idaho and January 9, 2008,
Portland, Oregon. Jennifer Miller, Ronda
Hirnyck, Lisa Downey-Blecker. Issue Date,
December 19, 2008.
www.ipmcenters.org/pmsp/pdf/CA-CO-IDOR-WAOrganicPotatoPMSP.pdf
Potatoes: Organic production and
marketing, by Rex Dufour, Tammy
Hinman, and Jeff Schahczenski.
NCAT IP337, 2009.
attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/summaries/
summary.php?pub=96
Selecting, cutting and handling
potato seed, Bulletin #2412, 2015,
by Steven B. Johnson, Ph.D., Extension
crops specialist, University of Maine
Cooperative Extension
extension.umaine.edu/
publications/2412e/
Introduction to weed management
in a small scale organic production
system (video). Produced by the Center
for Agroecology & Sustainable Food
Systems.
www.youtube.com/user/casfsvideo
Knock weeds out at critical times, by
Mark Schonbeck. eOrganic, 2010.
articles.extension.org/pages/18882/
knock-weeds-out-at-critical-times
Ospud participatory organic potato
project, Oregon State University.
horticulture.oregonstate.edu/content/
Pests and Diseases
Before you select varieties and plant your potato crop, look up
common pests and diseases that affect the crop in your area.
Learn about pest and disease life cycles, preventive practices,
and possible treatments using resources such as the UC IPM
website (ucipm.edu), your county Cooperative Extension
offices, ATTRA’s Biorationals: Ecological Pest Management
Database (www.ncat.org/attra-pub/biorationals), neighboring
farmers, and other knowledgeable professionals.
The main potato arthropod pests in the Central Coast region
are:
• Tuber moth. Phthorimaea operculella: larvae cause
economic damage when they tunnel into potato tubers,
both in the field and in storage.
• Aphids and viruses—Green peach aphid, Myzus persicae
and Potato aphid, Macrosiphum euphorbiae: aphids act as
vectors that transmit Potato Leaf Roll Virus (PLRV), cucumber
mosaic and alfalfa mosaic (calico) viruses.
• Cucumber beetle: Western spotted cucumber beetle,
Diabrotica undecimpunctata undecimpunctata, and Western
striped cucumber beetle, Acalymma trivittatum: damage
foliage.
• Tuber Flea Beetles, Epitrix tuberis: beetle larvae feed on
tubers.
• Wireworms. Common local species of wireworms include:
Pacific coast wireworm, Limonius canus. Sugarbeet
wireworm, Limonius californicus. Dryland wireworm,
Ctenicera pruinina: wireworms are click beetle larvae that
live in the soil. They cause economic damage by eating
potato seed pieces or roots of young plants, or burrowing
into developing tubers.
The main potato diseases in the Central Coast region are:
• Late Blight, Phytophthora infestans: late blight develops
rapidly, and can defoliate a crop within a few weeks.
• Verticillium Wilt, Verticillium dahliae: this wilt appears as
yellowing (chlorosis) and death (necrosis) of lower leaves; it
interferes with the plant water transport (vascular) system, so
the impact becomes visible quickly in hot weather.
• Scab, Streptomyces spp.: causes potato tubers to be
unmarketable.
See Organic Pest and Disease Management in Selected Crops
on California’s Central Coast in this Grower Guide series for
additional information on the pests and diseases listed here,
and suggestions for their control in potatoes.
12 | Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems
potatoes
APPENDIX: PRODUCTION SCHEDULE, ECONOMIC DATA
$42,625.00
-$3,470.48
-$3,595.19
$35,559.33
Per Acre Totals
Income:
Labor + Machine Cost ($):
Expenses:
Production Profit:
Item Cost per unit Cost per acre Notes
Seed - Non-Fingerling $.45/# $816.75 .125#/row'; 1 row/bed; 14520 row'/ac; 1815#/ac;
Seed - Fingerling $1.30/# $2,359.50 .125#/row'; 1 row/bed; 14520 row'/ac; 1815#/ac;
Drip Tape $120/7500' $232.32 1 row/bed; 14520 row'/ac; $.016/row'
Bags $.19043/bag $186.62 25#/bag; 24500#/ac
Total Expenses (per acre): $3,595.19
Input Costs
POTATO BLOCK
Crop day Sub Crop/Variety # beds (1 bed = .02ac) Action work rate (hr/ac) fixed rate (hrs) Total labor cost @ $16.10/hr Total machine cost @ $21.70/hr Unit Price ($/#) Harvest Value ($)
-25 20 Flail Mow:heavy 2.5 0.2 $26.04
-25 20 Spade 4.8 0.2 $46.00
-21 20 Begin Chitting 0.5 $8.05
-11 20 Mark Lines 2 0.2 $21.70
-11 20 List 1.25 0.2 $15.19
-11 20 Overhead Irr:set up 3.75 $24.15
-10 20 Overhead Irr:run 0.5 $8.05
-3 20 Cut Potatoes 24.2 $155.85
-3 20 Overhead Irr:break down 3.75 $24.15
-1 20 Light cultivation 1.25 0.2 $15.19
0 20 Plant:driver 4.84 0.4 $50.69
0 20 Plant:planters 9.68 $62.34
11 20 Cultivate 2 0.2 $21.70
11 20 Drip:set up 10 0.25 $68.43
30 20 Hill 1.25 0.2
30 20 Drip:run x 2/wk; @ 9 wks 2.7 $43.47
40 20 Hill 1.25 0.2
60 20 Hand Weed:spot weed 2 $12.88
80 Yukon Gold, Red Gold 10 Flail Mow:light 1.25 0.2 $9.77
94 Desiree, Austrian Crescent 10 Flail Mow:light -
115 20 Overhead Irr:set up 3.75
116 20 Overhead Irr:run 0.5
100 Red Gold 5 Harvest 83 1 $149.73 $39.06 $2.0 $3,600
120 Yukon Gold 5 Harvest 83 1 $149.73 $39.06 $1.5 $4,350
120 Desiree 5 Harvest 83 1 $149.73 $39.06 $1.5 $3,300
140 Austrian Crescent 5 Harvest 83 1 $149.73 $39.06 $2.0 $5,800
160 20 Drip:break down 2 $12.88
180 10 Disc:x1 0.5 0.2 $6.51
- 10 Drill/Cover Crop 1.6 0.2 $11.28
Sub-total: $1,019.16 $380.31
$1,399.48 Per Block (.4 Acres): 9,800
$3,470.48 Per Acre: 24,500
Harvest Amt. (#)
Per Acre:
Labor + Machine Cost ($)
Per Block (.4 Acres):
1,800
2,900
2,200
2,900
$17,050
$42,625
Yield
Harvest (#/acre)
Red Gold 18,000
Yukon Gold 29,000
Desire 22,000
Austrian Crescent 29,000
Harvest (row'/hr) 180
Harvest Rate (hr/ac) 80
Price ($/#) 1.5-2
Harvest Assumptions
Complete irrigation schedule available online at casfs.ucsc.edu/about/publications/growerguides. Data reflect direct field production costs and do not include other
potential overhead (e.g., water, electricity, land rent).",
"MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
Smallholder Horticulture Empowerment & Promotion Project
for Local and Up-Scaling (SHEP PLUS)
Prepared by SHEP PLUS
“Changing Farmers’ Mindset from “Grow and Sell” to ”Grow to Sell””
Japan International Cooperation Agency Agriculture and Food Authority
Horticultural Crops Directorate
Presented to the County & AFA (HCD) Staff in charge of the
SHEP PLUS Model Farmer Groups during the FT-FaDDE
TOMATO PRODUCTION
Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock and Fisheries
State Department for Crop Development & Agricultural Research
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
Tomato (Nyanya)
1-1
• Tomato is a member of the
Solanaceae family which
includes crops such as Potato,
Sweet Pepper, Chili and Egg
Plant
• One of the most produced and
consumed vegetables in Kenya
• Important cash crop for
smallholder farmers
• Mainly grown in open field but
green house production has also
grown in popularity
• Rich in Vitamin A, C and
Lycopene
• Eaten fresh, added to salads,
cooked as a vegetable or
processed into tomato paste,
jam, sauce, puree and juice
1. Introduction:
1.1 Background
2
Photo: SHEP PLUS
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
1.2 Common Varieties
1-2
Determinate Varieties
“Rio Grande”:
• Fresh market and processing variety
• Plant is slightly bushy and can be
staked or left unstaked
• Tolerant to verticillium and fusarium wilt
• Maturity Period: 75 – 85 days after
transplanting
• Yield: 18,000kg per acre
“Rio Grande”
3
Photo: Flora fields
http://www.florafields.com/index.php?route=product/product
&product_id=189
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
1.2 Common Varieties
1-3
“Cal J”
• Open pollinated determinate variety
• Tolerant to verticilium & fusarium wilts
• The plant produces red blocky shaped
fruits
• The fruits store and transport well
• Maturity Period: 75 - 85 days after
transplanting
“Cal J” • Yield: 11,000 – 13,000kg per acre
4
Photo: Farm Fresh Seeds
http://www.farmfreshseeds.com/heirloom-tomato-seeds-cal-j.html
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
1.2 Common Varieties Cont’
1-4
“Kilele F1”
• Medium-early maturing, determinate
type
• Suitable for drier or humid areas
• Disease tolerance: Tomato Yellow
Leaf Curl Virus, Tomato Mosaic
Virus, Verticillium, Fusarium Wilt &
Nematodes
• Fruits: Firm and elongated and has
shelf life of 21 days
• Maturity Period: 75 days after
transplanting
• Yield: 30,000 – 35,000kg per acre
“Kilele F1”
5
Photo: Syngenta kENYA
https://www.syngenta.co.ke/tomatoes
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
1.2 Common Varieties Cont’
1-5
“Assila F1”
• Determinate early maturing (75 days)
variety
• Tolerant to Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl
Virus (TYLCV) & nematodes
• It produces fruits with attractive red
colour with oval shape & heavy sweet
fruits
• Yield: 23,000kg per acre
• Good keeping quality & transportability
“Assila F1”
6
Photo: seminis
https://seminis.co.za/product/assila/686
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
1.2 Common Varieties Cont’
1-6
“Eden F1”
• Determinate and vigorous growing variety
• Good tolerance to Alternaria Canker,
Verticillium Wilt, Fusarium Wilt, Nematodes
and Bacterial Speck
• Deep red blocky fruits have long shelf life
• Maturity Period: 75 days after transplanting
• Yield: 40,000-50,000kg per acre (9 – 10 kg per
plant)
“Rambo F1”
• Determinate, vigorous plant with uniformly set
and firm fruits
• Tolerance: Bacterial wilt, Bacterial spot,
Fusarium wilt, Verticilium wilt and Nematodes
• Maturity 75 days after transplanting
• Yield: 30,000kg per acre
•Goodshelflife&transportquality“Eden F1”
7
Photo: seminis
https://seminis.co.za/product/eden/687
Photo: Kenya Highlands Seed Co.
https://royalseed.biz/tomatoes
“Eden F1”
“Rambo F1”
1-7
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
1.2 Common Varieties Cont’
1-8
Indeterminate Varieties
“Anna F1”:
• Hybrid and indeterminate fresh market variety that
produces blocky oval red fruits that have a long shelf
life, tolerance to Fusarium, Verticillium Wilt,
Alternaria Stem Canker and Nematodes
• Ideal greenhouse Tomato
• Maturity Period: 75 days after transplanting
• Yield: 64,000kg per acre (18 kg per plant for 8
months)
“Anna F1”
8
Photo: SHEP PLUS
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
1.2 Common Varieties Cont’
1-9
Indeterminate Varieties
“Tylka F1”
• Maturity Period: 75 days
• Plant: Intermediate, very vigorous, good
cover and high yielding
• Fruit: Very firm elongated, non-green
back, smooth and firm oval fruits with an
average frit weight of 120-130g
• Production/ Yield: 70,000-78,000kg per
acre under good agricultural practices
• Shelf life: Over 21 days
• Disease tolerance: Tomato Yellow Leaf
Curl Virus (TYLCV), Tomato Mosaic
Virus (ToMV 0-2), Verticillium & Fusarium
Wilt (race 1&2)
“Tylka F1”
9
Photo:
https://www.syngenta.co.ke/product/se
ed/tomato/tylka-f1
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
1.2 Common Varieties Cont’
1-10
Indeterminate Varieties
“Corazon F1”
• Extended shelf life
• Good resistant to cracking
• Suitable for green house/ net house
production
• High yielding, staking growing system
• Oval shape, weight:130-190g
• Resistant to: Verticillium Wilt, Fusarium
(race 1,2), Bacterial speck, Tobacco
mosaic virus (ToMV), Nematode, Tomato
spotted wilt virus, Tomato Yellow Leaf
Curl Virus (TYLCV)
“Corazon F1”
10
Photo: Amiran THE COMPLETE
FARMERS CATALOGUE
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
1.3 Choice of Varieties
1-11
Selection of variety need to be based on:
• Growth Habit: determinate (bush),
indeterminate (climbing) and semideterminate
• Disease Tolerance/ Resistance:
indicated by initials after variety name e.g.
“F” for fusarium wilt, “N” for
nematodes
• Fruit Type (shape, size & color): Market
requirement will determine fruit type.
– Processing-intense red color & more
solids
– Fresh market- shape, color & size
vary
• Hybrid or Open Pollinated Varieties
(OPV): Hybrid seeds give higher yields
but are more expensive
Tomato crop in the field
11
Photo: SHEP PLUS
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
1.4 Optimal Ecological
Requirements
Altitude 0 – 2,000 Meters Above
Sea Level
Rainfall Over 600 mm of rainfall
annually
Growing
Temperature
20 – 25 0C (day)
15 – 17 0C (night)
Soils •Well drained sandy, loam,
and clay loam soils
•pH range 6.0 – 7.5 12
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
13
2. G20 technologies
 Make sure to support farmers carry out G20
techniques for any crop
1. Market survey
2. Crop planting
calendar
3. Soil testing
4. Composting
5. Use of quality
planting materials
6. Recommended land
preparation practices
7. Incorporating crop
residues
8. Basal application of
compost/ manure
9. Recommended
practices of seedling
preparation/
seedlings from
registered nursery
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
14
2. G20 technologies
10.Recommended
spacing
11.Recommended
fertilizer application
rate
12.Supplementing
water
13.Timely weeding
14.Top-dressing
15.IPM practices
16.Safe and effective
use of pesticides
17.Use of harvesting
indices
18.Appropriate post
harvest handling
containers
19.Value addition
techniques
20.Keeping farm
records
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.1 Raising Seedlings
Tomato nursery
3-4
50 cm
1 m 1 m
10 – 20 cm
15
Photos: SHEP PLUS
3-5
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.1 Raising Seedlings
(GHCP&PHHT20: Q9)
• Tomato can be established through nursery or directly seeded
• Normally, it is raised in nursery before transplanting
• The seed rate is about 40 – 75 g/acre
• Seed trays can also be used to raise seedlings
Nursery Site Selection:
• The nursery should be sited in a plot that has not been planted
with a member of Solanaceae family for the last 3 years
• Choose the site with good drainage
Nursery Establishment:
• Prepare a seedbed of 1 m width and of a convenient length
• Make drills on the seedbed at a spacing of 10 – 20 cm apart
• Thinly sow the seeds in the drills and cover lightly with soil
16
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.1 Raising Seedlings Cont’
Management of Nursery:
• Water the nursery regularly
• Harden the seedlings 1 – 2 weeks before transplanting by
reducing the frequency of watering and gradually exposing
the seedlings to direct sunlight
• Insects such as whiteflies can transmit viruses to young
tomato plants hence should be controlled using pesticides
e.g. Amitraz (Mitac 20EC®), Buprofezin (Applaud 40%SC®),
Azadirachtin (Nimbecidine®), Imidacloprid (Confidor 70
WG®)
• The insects can also be blocked from reaching the
seedlings by use of an insect proof net (agricultural type)
17
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.2 Transplanting
Recently transplanted Tomato seedlings
3-5
18
Photo: SHEP PLUS
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.2 Transplanting
3.2.1 Appropriate Time
• Seedlings are transplanted 30 – 45 days after seed sowing
• It is recommended that transplanting should be done either
early in the morning or late in the evening
3.2.2 Recommended Spacing (GHCP&PHHT20: Q10)
• Spacing: range from 75 – 100 cm (between rows) by 40 –
60 cm (between seedlings) depending on the variety
• Plant Population per Acre: range from 6,666 to 13,333
• Appropriate spacing produces short, stocky plants with
good root system and reduces disease incidences
19
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.2 Transplanting Cont’
3.2.3 Fertilizer Application Rates (GHCP&PHHT20: Q11)
• Make holes and add 2 – 3 handfuls of manure per planting
hole (8 tons/acre)
• The type and quantity of fertilizers will depend on soil
analysis results.
[General recommendations]
• Apply 2 bottle tops (10 g) of Triple Super Phosphate (TSP)
per planting hole (80 kg/acre)
• Apply Muriate of Potash (MOP) to enhance availability of
potassium
20
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.3 Water Requirement
(GHCP&PHHT20: Q12)
• Tomato is sensitive to water deficit:
– Immediately after transplanting
– During flowering and fruit
development
• Plants should be provided with adequate
water
• Tomato plants are sensitive to water
logging and flooded fields should be
drained within 1 – 3 days
Irrigation Methods:
• Furrow and drip irrigation are the most
effective methods
• Furrow irrigation minimizes spread of
fungal diseases, such as “Early Blight”
• Drip irrigation on the other hand is
efficient on water utilization
• Overhead irrigation encourages
spread of diseases such as “Early Blight”
3-6
Drip Irrigation in a Tomato
field
21
Photo: SHEP PLUS
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.4 Top-dressing
(GHCP&PHHT20: Q14)
• Tomato crop should be fertilized with organic and inorganic
fertilizers to produce high yields
• Top-dressing fertilizer such as CAN should be applied in 2
splits at 40 kg & 80 kg/acre at 4 and 8 weeks after
transplanting which is a general recommendation
• Soil analysis results provides specific information for each
farm
• Application method: circular band around the stem
• Inadequate top-dressing can result in physiological
disorders such as:
– Hollow cavities and poor taste in fruits due to
potassium deficiency
– Blossom-end rot due to an imbalance between nitrogen,
calcium and soil moisture 22
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
• Indeterminate varieties
need staking/training to
facilitate pruning,
harvesting and other
cultural practices
• Determinate varieties don't
require staking but may be
staked in wet season to
prevent fruit contact with
the soil. On the other hand,
mulch may be used
instead of staking
• Staking materials: wooden
stakes, bamboo or any
sturdy material
• Strings, plastic strips or
other material can be used
to train the plant to the
stake
3.5 Crop Management
3.5.1 Staking & Training
3-9
Well staked Tomato field
23
Photo: SHEP PLUS
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
• This practice is necessary for
the indeterminate varieties
• It involves removal of side
shoots, extra flowers, fruits
and diseased leaves
• Leads to early maturity of
fruits and encourages fruits to
increase in size and
uniformity
• Sterilize pruning blades by use
of chlorine bleach and water at
a ratio of 1:1. Use of
unsterilized blades and
smoking can lead to spread of
diseases e.g. TMV, Bacterial
Wilt
3.5.2 Pruning
3-10
Training of tomato
plants in the field. A
side shoot has been
pinched
24
Photo: SHEP PLUS
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.5.3 Major Pests
The following are the major pests of Tomato in Kenya:
A.African Bollworm
B.Red Spider Mites
C.Tobacco Whitefly
D.Root-knot Nematode
E. Thrips
F. Tuta absoluta
25
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.5.3.A: African Bollworm
3-12
A fruit damaged by “African Bollworm” 26
Photo: SHEP PLUS
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.5.3.A: African Bollworm
Identification:
• Adult moth is dull yellow to brown
• The female moth lays tiny round & brownish eggs near or on
flowers or small fruits
• Larvae have alternating light and dark colored stripes on either
side of the body
• The pupa is shiny brown
Damage:
• Caterpillars feed on flowers and green fruits causing flower
abortion and sunken necrotic spots, respectively
• Feeding holes made by the caterpillar serve as entry point for
bacteria and fungi which may lead to rotting of fruits
27
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.5.3.A: African Bollworm
Control:
• Tilling & ploughing of old tomato field exposes pupa to
desiccation and natural enemies
• Planting of trap crops (e.g. Cucumber, Maize and African
Marigold) which attract the pest before it attacks tomatoes (Need
to synchronize planting of both maize and tomatoes so that they
flower at same time)
• Use of selective pesticides or microbial control agents like:
– Helicoverpa armigera SNPV virus (HelitecSC®)
– Indoxacarb (Avaunt 150EC®)
– Etofenprox 30%(TREBON 30 EC®)
28
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.B: Red Spider Mites
3-13
Underside of Tomato leaf infested with
“Red Spider Mites” 29
Photo: SHEP PLUS
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.B: Red Spider Mites
Identification:
• Adult red spider mites are oval in shape and appear reddish
and have eight (8) legs
• Eggs are very tiny, spherical and whitish; and are laid singly
on underside of leaves
• Red spider mites spin silk threads/ web which protect/
anchor the pest and their eggs to the plant
Damage:
• Leaves when infected show white to yellow speckling, later
turn pale or bronzed
• High population causes serious drying and dropping of
leaves (defoliation) which leads to smaller and lighter fruits
30
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.B: Red Spider Mites
Control (Scouting & GAP):
• Use of pesticides (miticides) such as:
– Spiromesifen (Oberon SC 240®)
– Hexythiazox (Arsur 100 EC®)
– Abamectin (Avirmec 1.8EC®, Almectin 1.8%EC®,
Agrimec 18EC®)
– Amitraz (Mitac 20EC®)
– Amblyseius californicus (Amblytech®-predatory mite)
• Spider mites rapidly develop resistance to pesticides,
especially when they are used continuously for several
seasons
• To avoid development of resistance, farmers need to:
– Use miticides with different chemical
composition/modes of action
– Avoid routine spraying
– Use the recommended dosage
31
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.C: Tobacco Whitefly
“Whiteflies” on a leaf
3-14
32
Photo: Clemson University - USDA Cooperative Extension Slide Series, Bugwood.org
(CC BY 3.0 US)
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.C: Tobacco Whitefly
Identification:
• Adult whitefly resembles small white moth – like insect
which cluster on the underside of upper leaves from which
they suck sap
• Eggs are laid in arc or circle on the underside of young
leaves
• When eggs hatch they produce greenish white nymphs
which resemble scales
Damage:
• Suck plant sap and remove nutrients which cause
yellowing of infested leaves
• The larvae secrete honey dew which supports growth of
black sooty mould
• Transmit viral diseases, especially Tomato Yellow Leaf
Curl Virus (TYLCV)
33
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.C: Tobacco Whitefly
Control:
• Keep tomato fields weed free
• Use of yellow sticky traps to monitor their population
levels
• Covering tomato seedling nurseries with nylon nets or
insect proof nets to protect seedlings from whitefly
infestations
• Use of insecticides in the morning & ring spray
– Amitraz (Mitac 20EC®)
– Buprofezin (Applaud 40%SC®)
– Azadirachtin (Nimbecidine®)
– Imidacloprid (Confidor 70 WG®)
– Lambda Cyhalothrin (Karate 2.5WG®)
– Lambda- cyhalothrin + Thiamethoxam (LEXUS 247
SC®)
34
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.D: Root-knot Nematode
3-15
Root galls: characteristic of
“Root-knot Nematode” infestation 35
Photo: David L. Clement, University of Maryland, Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US)
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.D: Root-knot Nematode
Description:
• Nematodes are soil inhabitants easily spread by infested
seedlings, soil washed down the slopes or by farm
implements
• Root–knot nematodes are most serious on light sandy soils
under furrow irrigation
Damages:
• Plants are stunted, yellow and tend to wilt without yellowing in
hot weather
• The roots of affected plants are severely distorted, swollen and
bear galls or knots
• Heavy infestation results in severe loss in yield
36
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.D: Root-knot Nematode
Control:
• Burn the top soil using waste plant material after seedbed
preparation
• Solarize seedbeds if possible by covering soil with clear
polythene sheet for 2 – 3 months
• Manuring of soil to reduce nematode population
• Fields should be ploughed deep and harrowed followed by dry
fallow
• Use trap/ repellent crops such as Marigold
• Use of nematicides such as
– Azadirachtin (Nimbecidine®, Achook EC®)
– Paecilomyces lilacinus (Bio-nematon 1.15% WP®, Mytech
WP®)
– Metham sodium (Metham sodium®)
– Abamectin (Adventure 5G®)
– Ethoprophos (MOCAP GR 10®) 37
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.E: Thrips
3-16a
Thrips damage on Tomato
Photo: © A. M. Varela, icipe (CC BY-NC-SA 3.0)
http://www.infonet-biovision.org/PlantHealth/Crops/Tomato#simple-table-of-contents-4
38
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.E: Thrips
Identification:
• Adult thrips are small (0.5 –
2.0 mm), slender and winged
• Wings are long, narrow and
fringed with long hairs
• Nymphs are white or yellow
• Both adults and nymphs feed
on lower leaf surface, buds,
flowers and fruits
• It transmits the Tomato
Spotted Wilt Virus/
Tospovirus (“Kijeshi”)
39
“Kijeshi” symptoms
Photo: SHEP PLUS
3-16b
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.E: Thrips
Damages:
• Attack on leaves causes speckling & small necrotic
patches
• Heavy infection causes premature wilting, delay in leaf
development & distortion of young shoots
• Attack on buds and flowers leads to abortion
Control:
• Ploughing and harrowing before transplanting to kill pupae
in the soil
• Use of insecticides such as
– Lambda-Cyhalothrin (Karate 2.5 WG®)
– Abamectin + Acetamiprid (Amazing Top 100WDG®)
40
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3-17a
Tuta absoluta adult (left)
and larva (right)
Photo: By Marja van der Straten, NVWA Plant Protection Service, Bugwood.org - http://www.ipmimages.org/browse/detail.cfm?imgnum=5432149, CC
BY 3.0 us, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=22440495
3.10.3.F: Tuta absoluta
41
3-17b
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
42
Photo: By N3v3rl4nd - Own work, Public Domain,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6598872
By Goldlocki - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=228832
3.10.3.F: Tuta absoluta
Tomato Leafminer (left)
Tuta Absoluta (right)
3-17c 3-17d
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.F: Tuta absoluta
Identification:
• The moth is gray-brown, same size and posture as diamond back
moth (DBM) and has long antenna & lays up to 260 eggs
• Newly hatched caterpillars are small (0.5 mm) and yellowish
• Mature caterpillars (9 mm: fully grown) are yellow-green, have pinkish
color on the back and a black band behind the head
• Pupae is light brown and size is 6 mm
• The larva (caterpillar) is the damaging stage
• Distribution is through seedlings, containers, fruits, soil & Green
houses
Damages:
• The caterpillar burrows (mines) in the middle of the leaf tissue
• Unlike other leafminers, it feeds indiscriminately and from a distance, it
seems like the leaves are “burning”
• Most distinctive symptoms are the blotch-shaped mines in the leaves
• It bores n fruits, leaving symptomatic tiny holes
• It also burrows on stems causing breakages
• A serious pest and can cause 100% loss if not controlled in time
43
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.3.F: Tuta absoluta
Control:
• Early control is important before the pest pressure builds up
• Carry out cultural practices like field hygiene, crop rotation
• Carry out regular scouting/monitoring of pest population
• Use of pheromone traps to attract male insects for both
monitoring/surveillance and pest control e.g. mating disruption, mass
trapping ‘lure & kill’ method, such as Tutrak, Tutalure (1m above the
ground, 4-6 traps/ acre)
• Use of insecticides like
- Chlorantraniliprole (Coragen®)
- Indoxacarb (Avaunt 150EC®, Merit 150SC®)
- Spirotetramat + Flubendiamide (Tihan OD®)
- Thiocyclam 50% w/w; Thiocyclam-hydrogenoxalate (Evisect S®)
- Imidacloprid (Grizly 175/30 SC®)
- Flubendiamide (Belt 480SC®)
Note: The above pest control tactics should be combined in an IPM
strategy 44
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4 Major Diseases & Physiological
Disorders
• The following are the major diseases and physiological
disorders of Tomato in Kenya:
a. Damping-off
b. Late Blight
c. Early Blight
d. Bacterial Wilt
e. Tomato Mosaic
f. Blossom-end Rot
g. Fusarium Wilt
45
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.a: Damping-off
3-18
General Description:
• This disease is soil borne
Symptoms:
• Decay of germinating seed
• Girdling of stem of young seedling
at ground level
Control:
• Use of certified seed
• Avoid locating the seedbed on
infected fields
• Avoid excessive fertilizer
application and watering to young
seedlings while still at nursery bed
• Apply chemicals such as:
– Metalaxyl + Mancozeb (Amidil
68WG®
“Damping-off” symptoms on
seedlings
46
Photo: Infonet Biovision (CC BY-NC-SA 3.0)
http://www.infonet-biovision.org/PlantHealth/Pests/Damping-diseases
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.b: Late Blight
“Late Blight” on foliage and fruits
3-19 3-20
Photo: Gerald Holmes, California Polytechnic State University at San
Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US)
Photo: Edward Sikora, Auburn University,
Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US)
47
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.b: Late Blight
General Descriptions:
• This is a fungal disease which affects foliage and fruits
• The development of the disease is favoured by cool and wet conditions
Symptoms:
• Irregular greenish-black water soaked blotches/patches on leaves
• The spots on the leaves later turn brown and the attacked leaves wither
but remain attached to the stem giving a frost-damaged appearance
• Water soaked brown streaks on stem
• Grey water soaked spots on fruits – upper half of the fruit with foul smell
Control:
• Crop rotation
• Removal of all volunteer crops that are more susceptible to this disease
• Pruning and staking in order to improve air circulation and reduce
humidity
• Use of fungicides, such as:
– Metalaxyl + Mancozeb (Ridomil Gold MZ68®)
– Propineb + Cymoxanil (Milraz WP76®)
– Mancozeb (Dithane M45®)
– Dimethomorph + Mancozeb (Acrobat MZ®)
48
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.c: Early Blight
“Early Blight” on Foliage
3-21
Photo: SHEP PLUS
49
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.c: Early Blight
General Descriptions:
•This is a fungal disease which affects foliage and fruits
•The fungus is seed borne
•It is well adapted to semi-arid areas; warm wet weather
•The disease is favoured by warm rainy weather
Symptoms:
•Premature loss of lower leaves is the main symptom
•On leaves, brown circular spots with dark concentric rings
•Leaves turn yellow and dry when only a few spots appear
•On fruits, large sunken areas with dark concentric rings appearing
velvety
50
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.c: Early Blight
Control:
•Use of certified seeds
•Appropriate spacing
•Avoid overhead irrigation, water in the morning and keep plants
healthy/ stress-free
•Use of fungicides, such as
– Chlorothalonil (Odeon® 82.5WDG)
– Manconzeb (Oshothane®)
– Propineb (Antracol WP70®)
– Mancozeb + Cymoxanil (Agromax®)
– Propineb + Iprovalicarb (Melody Duo®)
51
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.d: Bacterial Wilt
Symptom of “Bacterial Wilt” infection
3-23
Photo: Don Ferrin, Louisiana State University Agricultural Center, Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US)
52
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.d: Bacterial Wilt
General Descriptions:
• This is a bacterial disease which is soil-borne
• It is easily spread by run off water and infected soil
Symptoms:
• Rapid wilting and death of entire plant without yellowing or
spotting of leaves
• When the stem of a wilted plant is cut across, the pith has a
darkened water – soaked appearance
• When stem of wilted plant is squeezed, a greyish slimy ooze is
produced
• To distinguish this wilt from others, when a thin slice is taken
from the brown stem tissue and placed inside a glass of water, a
milky ooze is produced from the cut surface
53
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.d: Bacterial Wilt
Control:
• Practice crop rotation with crops such as cereals
• Remove wilted plants, with the soil around roots, from the field
and destroy
• Solarize planting beds
• Spot treatment with Sodium Hypochlorite at 10 % dilution (Jik)
or with lime/ ash
• Sterilize pruning tools
• Use of Metam sodium (METHAM SODIUM 51 Liquid soluble®),
Bronopol (ENRICH BM Wettable Powder®)
54
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.e: Tomato Mosaic Virus
Symptoms of “Tomato Mosaic Virus”
infection on foliage and fruit
3-24 3-25
Photo: University of Georgia Plant Pathology , University of
Georgia, Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US)
55
Photo: © A. A. Seif and A. M. Varela, icipe
http://www.infonetbiovision.org/PlantHealth/Crops/Tomato#simpl
e-table-of-contents-4 (CC BY-NC-SA 3.0)
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.e: Tomato Mosaic Virus
General Descriptions:
• This is a viral disease which is easily transmitted by
infected seed and plant debris in the soil
• Mechanically transmitted through transplanting seedlings
and pruning tools
Symptoms:
• Mottling of leaves with raised dark green areas
• The shape of young leaves is distorted
• Internal browning of fruits, especially when fruits are
affected at mature green stage
Control:
• Use certified disease- free seeds
• Remove crop debris and roots from the field
• Do not smoke or touch cigarettes as the virus is
transmitted from tobacco leaves even if it is processed
56
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.f: Blossom-end Rot
3-26
General Descriptions:
• This is a physiological condition
caused by calcium-nitrogen
imbalance in the soil, especially
when moisture level in the soil is low
Symptoms:
• A rot at the blossom-end of the fruit
• The surface becomes dark brown
and sunken
Control:
• Maintain adequate soil moisture,
especially at fruit development
stages
• Soil liming in calcium deficient soils,
reduce N and mulch the field
• Top-dress with CN, Mavuno
Planting and ensure adequate soil
moisture
• Spray the crop with calcium
chloride
• Foliar application of EASY-GRO
CALCIUM®
Tomato fruits affected by
“Blossom-end Rot”
57
Photo: M.E. Bartolo, Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US)
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.g: Fusarium Wilt
Symptoms of Fusarium Wilt
3-27
Photo: © Scot Nelson (Public Domain)
58
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.g: Fusarium Wilt
General Descriptions:
• The fungus is both seed- and soil-borne.
• It causes most damage on light, sandy soils.
• It is most active at temperatures between 25 and 32o
C.
• The fungus can survive in the soil indefinitely even when no
tomatoes are grown.
• It can also survive in fibrous roots of weeds (e.g. Amaranthus,
Digitaria and Malva species).
• Acidic soils (pH 5.0 to 5.6) and excessive nitrogen fertilisation
promote disease development.
Symptoms:
• The lower leaves of the plant usually turn yellow and die.
• Leaflets on one side may be affected while those on the other
side are asymptomatic.
• Diseased leaves readily break away from the stem. When
affected stems just above ground level and petioles are cut
diagonally, a reddish-brown discolouration of the water
conducting tissues will be observed. 59
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
3.10.4.g: Fusarium Wilt
Control:
• Use resistant tomato varieties (e.g. ""Fortune Maker"", ""Rio
Grande"", ""Tengeru 97"", ""Roma VFN“, Eden F1, Rambo F1, Anna
F1).
• Use certified disease-free seeds.
• Do not locate seedbeds on land where Fusarium wilt is known to
have occurred.
• Where soil is acidic, raise the pH by applying lime or farmyard
manure.
• Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilisation and control root-knot
nematodes.
60
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4. Harvest
Harvesting of Tomatoes
4-1
61
Photo: SHEP PLUS
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
4. Harvest
4.1 Harvesting Indices (GHCP&PHHT20: Q17)
• Maturity period range between 3 – 4 months after transplanting
depending on:
– The variety
– Environmental conditions
• Tomato can be harvested at different stages depending on the
market requirement and distance to the market
• There are four (4) main harvesting stages:
– Mature-Green Stage: where the fruit is green but internal gel
is well developed
– Breaker/Turning Stage: up to 30% of fruit surface has definite
color break from green to yellow
– Pink/Light Red Stage: 30 – 90% fruit surface has pink/red
color
– Red/Ripe Stage: over 90% fruit surface has changed to red
color
62
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
4. Harvest
• Fruits should be harvested early in the morning when it is cool
since the fruit temperature is low
• Harvested fruits should be kept in a cool, shaded and ventilated
area in order to minimize heat gain
• When necessary, wipe fruits to remove dirt
• The yields vary from 12,000 – 40,000kg per acre depending on
the variety and crop husbandry
63
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
5. Post-Harvest Handling
5-1
Graded tomatoes packed in crates 64
Photo: SHEP PLUS
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
5.1 Containers & Packaging Materials (GHCP&PHHT20: Q18)
• Pack tomatoes in clean well ventilated containers to transport. Normally
packed in wooden and plastic crates
5.2 Value Addition Techniques: Cleaning, Sorting, Grading, &
Processing (GHCP&PHHT20: Q19)
Sorting:
• Sorting is done to remove damaged or diseased fruits.
Grading:
• Tomatoes are graded depending on the uniformity of ripening and fruit
size
• There are three (3) main tomato grades:
– Grade 1: big size fruits of uniform color and shape
– Grade 2: medium size fruits of uniform color and shape
– Grade 3: small size fruits with slight variation in color and shape
5. Post-Harvest Handling
65
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
5.2 Value Addition
Techniques: Cleaning,
Sorting, Grading, &
Processing Cont’
(GHCP&PHHT20: Q19)
Processing:
• Processing tomatoes
into high value products
such as jam, sauce, and
pickles enables farmers
to earn more income
5. Post-Harvest Handling Cont’
66
Photo: SHEP PLUS
5-2
Tomatoes in crates ready to be
transported to the market
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
Reference
• The proposed agrochemicals are in accordance with “Products Registered for Use on
Crops Version 1_2018”. The registered agrochemicals are subject to change. Please
refer to the latest registered agrochemicals by Pest Control Product Board.
• Infonet Biovision (accessed on 7 Dec 2016) :
http://www.infonet-biovision.org/PlantHealth/Pests/African-bollworm
http://www.infonet-biovision.org/PlantHealth/Crops/Tomato#
• Eden F1 Leaflet (Monsantoafrica)
http://www.monsantoafrica.com/_pdfs/tomato_eden_flier_en.pdf
• Plantwise Factsheets for Farmers “Fusarium wilt of tomato”
https://www.plantwise.org/KnowledgeBank/factsheetforfarmers/20157800181
MOALF/ SHEP PLUS
Contact: SHEP PLUS Office (4th Floor, N.H.I.F.
Building, Upper Hill, Nairobi)
Tel. No: 0737-293867/0712-504095
E-mail: info.shepunit@gmail.com
THANK YOU
ASANTE SANA
DOMO ARIGATO
GOZAIMASU
SMALLHOLDER HORTICULTURE EMPOWERMENT & PROMOTION PROJECT FOR LOCAL AND UP-SCALING(SHEP PLUS) © 2016
68",
,
"Tomatoes
VEGETABLE CROPS PRODUCTION GUIDE
FOR THE ATLANTIC PROVINCES
Prepared by the ADVISORY COMMITTEE ON VEGETABLE CROPS
Published by authority of the ATLANTIC PROVINCES AGRICULTURE
SERVICES CO-ORDINATING COMMITTEE
Introduction
Tomatoes belong to the Solanaceae (the nightshade family) along with potatoes, peppers and
eggplants. Lycopersicon esculentum is a perennial plant in the tropics but in northern climates it
is grown as an annual. Botanically this vegetable is a fruit (a berry). Flowers are generally borne
in clusters of 4 to 8 but small fruited types may have 30 to 50 flowers per cluster. The flowers are
mainly self pollinated by the wind. The fruit has 2 to 18 locules (chambers or sections).
The tomato is a native of the Peru, Bolivia, and Ecuador area of the Andes Mountains. Its
antiquity is uncertain in regard to cultivation but it was being cultivated when America was
discovered by Europeans. It was not until 1835 that the tomato was considered suitable as a food
crop in the northeastern United States.
Tomatoes respond well to high temperatures. The minimum temperature for seed germination is
10 C with a maximum temperature of 35 C and an optimum range of 17 to 20 C. Most field
transplants should not be set out until the danger of frost is past. An optimum growth rate is
obtained at 22 C with reductions occurring above 30 C and below 12 C. Fruit setting is inhibited
above 30 C and below 16 C. Rough fruit (cat faced) results from growing temperatures below 16
C. Root growth does not occur below 16 C. Tomatoes require adequate, even moisture,
particularly at flowering and during fruit set.
Tomatoes grow best in well drained soils that are well supplied with organic matter. Sandy soils
are suited for early production, loam and clay loam soils are suited for later production. Shelter
from wind is important especially for early production. This crop also benefits from the use of
plastics such as ground mulches, row covers, and tunnel houses.
Tunnel house tomato harvest begins about mid-July and field harvest about August 1st.
Production continues as long as economically viable, up to late October. Marketable yields of
ripe tomatoes vary dramatically with the weather. This range is 10,000 to 30,000 kg per hectare.
Tomatoes for green chow may yield as much as 40,000 kg per hectare.
There is a large market for red tomatoes in the Atlantic area within our growing season,
especially on the wholesale market. There is still price competition from other areas of North
America, and in good growing seasons there are local market ""gluts''. There is also interest in
extending our season with the use of tunnel houses for July and August production. There is a
limited market for fresh green tomatoes and a limited processing market. ""Sun dried"" tomatoes
are being processed on a small scale. The warmest areas of the Atlantic provinces can grow red
processing tomatoes.
Crop Establishment
Seeding/Planting - Since tomatoes require a relatively long growing season, they should be
started in a greenhouse or hotbed. Approximately 75 to 150 grams of seed are required to
produce enough plants for one hectare. Sow seeds eight weeks before plants are to be set in the
field or tunnel. A temperature of 27 C for 1 to 2 weeks is required for good seed emergence.
Plants for early crops can be pricked off (when the first true leaves appear) into 5 to 10 cm pots
and plants for late production can be pricked off into a module transplant tray, peat block, paper
pots or peat pots 4 to 5 weeks before transplanting. Plants should be grown firm and stocky by
good light, moderate temperatures and appropriate fertilization. Plants should be developed to the
budding stage by the time of transplanting.
Tomato plants can also be raised by sowing raw seed directly into peat pots, module trays (72,
128 or 200 cell trays), or peat blocks. Under such a planting system a superior plant can be raised
in a shorter time. This system is less labor intensive and reduces transplant shock.
Tomato plants should be hardened for about one week before transplanting to the field. This can
be accomplished by reducing the soil moisture supply and reducing the air temperature to 13 to
16 C. This will improve the survival ability of the plants to adverse weather conditions when
field set.
Tomatoes are normally field set at 11,000 to 18,000 plants per hectare depending on the type of
tomato and its field spacing:
1.Determinate (small-vined) cultivars - plants 45 to 60 cm apart, rows 1 to 1.5 m apart.
2.Indeterminate (large-vined) cultivars - plants 50 to 90 cm apart, rows 1.5 to 2 m apart.
3.Staked Tomatoes - plants 45 cm apart, rows 1 to 1.5 m apart.
Tomatoes for processing will have specific requirements.
Nutrient Content: An excellent source of Vitamin C. They are also a source of many minerals
including potassium, calcium and folate. One medium raw tomato provides 35 kilocalories.
Crop Management
Transplanting - set in the field after the danger of frost is past. Set out only relatively young,
firm and blossom free plants. Severe hardening reduces yields. To obtain good yields and fruit
size, the plants should become established in the field before the first fruits are set. This is
important with early determinate cultivars. Use a starter fertilizer solution.
Mulching - black plastic mulch can be used for weed control and higher yields of marketable
fruit. Clear plastic mulch is the most effective for early growth and yields. However, weeds must
be controlled with the use of herbicides.
Apply mulches when soil moisture is high and well before planting so the soil can heat up.
Hot caps, row covers or tunnels - these are used by growers to foster early growth and
production. Ventilation is critical on warm sunny days. Do not allow temperatures around plants
to exceed 35 C. Grow cultivars suited to this method of culture. Air blasting is necessary for
pollinization of early fruit clusters (flowers must be vibrated).
Staking Tomatoes - advantages in staking, or otherwise training tomato plants off the ground
include a frequent increase in the percentage of marketable fruit, easier harvesting, and reduced
injury to both plants and fruit in harvesting. It is doubtful that staked yields will differ from
unstaked plant yields or that fruits on staked plants are firmer. Staking procedures (many systems
are possible) that require little pruning seem best because pruning is costly, and removing laterals
means removing potential flower clusters, so both early and total yields per plant are often
reduced. The practices of staking and pruning most are likely to be profitable when a long harvest
season is possible and fairly uniform production over the season is desired. (Only staking
greenhouse cultivars should be used in tunnel houses and a limited number of trusses should be
allowed to set depending on the intended market and season).
Irrigation - the soil moisture should be kept at a reasonable level to reduce the incidence of
cracking and blossom end rot from wide fluctuations in soil moisture. A fixed irrigation system
may be used for frost control at planting time or late in the fall. Trickle irrigation may be used in
the field or in tunnel houses with or without soil mulches.
Nutrition
ALL ADDITIONS OF LIME AND FERTILIZER OR MANURES SHOULD BE BASED ON
RECOMMENDATIONS FROM A SOIL TEST.
Manures - Often they are used in tomato production but one has to be careful of excessive
nitrogen since delayed maturity and excessive vegetative growth may result.
Lime - Lime should be applied to maintain the soil pH in the range 6.5 to 6.8. A high pH will
usually ensure a high calcium level which is necessary for this crop.
Nitrogen - Nitrogen is best applied at the time of planting and broadcast at an appropriate level,
since an excess will delay maturity of ripe tomatoes. Soil organic matter and rotations have to be
carefully considered for N contribution. Foliar sprays of calcium nitrate or urea may be used to
apply some additional nitrogen. Where plastic mulches are used the nitrogen application should
be low since the nitrogen does not leach. Approximately 50 kg per hectare or less of nitrogen
may be enough for fresh market vigorous cultivars planted into plastic mulch. Maturity may be
delayed two to three weeks or more by an excessive application of nitrogen. Total yields of green
plus ripe fruit are usually larger but early ripe yields are drastically reduced. For green chow
tomatoes heavier rates of nitrogen should be used. Trickle irrigation can be used for fertilization.
For processing tomatoes the nitrogen rate will vary greatly depending on the variety, soil type,
crop rotation, organic matter and soil management.
Phosphorus - It is most effectively used when banded at the time of transplanting especially
when small quantities of fertilizer are being applied. Band at least 50 kg of phosphorus per
hectare. Use a transplant solution if possible especially on low phosphorus soils
Potash - Broadcast potash requirements before planting and incorporate it into the soil along
with the nitrogen. Banded potash can hurt yields at 60 kg per hectare.
Magnesium - On sandy soils low in organic matter and in magnesium content, foliar applications
of epsom salts should be considered.
Calcium - On sandy soils low in calcium apply foliar sprays of calcium nitrate to prevent
blossom end rot (adjust nitrogen accordingly).
Micronutrients Boron - Tomatoes have a high boron requirement. Apply a boronated fertilizer
and apply at least one foliar spray of soluble boron.
Application Method - Nitrogen and potash should be broadcast prior to planting and
incorporated into the soil. Banded nitrogen and potash can be detrimental to early and total
yields. Phosphorus would be best banded and starter solutions should always be used. More
fertilizer may be needed on staked cultivars.
Pests and Pest Control
Weeds
Control perennial weeds prior to planting. Many growers use black plastic mulch for weed
control, especially when the crop is grown under plastic row tunnels. Most herbicides
recommended for use on tomatoes will not provide complete control of annual weeds and
supplemental cultivation is usually necessary. Often contact herbicides are used to burn weeds
from between the rows of plastic mulch. (Use shields to prevent drift onto the crop).
Diseases
Damping Off (fungi)
Characteristics: Seed may decay, fail to emerge or once emerged develop water soaked
discolored areas on the stem which withers and causes the plant to fall over. Disease incidence
and severity is increased by cold temperatures, over watering, high humidity and over crowding.
Control: Hot water treat seed and apply a fungicide seed protectant. Plant seeds at the
recommended rate into sterilized seeding mix and flats. Supply adequate moisture but do not
overwater and maintain night temperatures above 16 C. Drench immediately after seeding with a
fungicide and if damping off occurs continue to apply fungicides at weekly intervals.
Sclerotinia (white mold)
Characteristics: This disease affects the stems of tomato plants especially those being grown on
the ground. Fields selected for production should be as free as possible from this disease as it can
survive from many years in the soil by means of a hard Sclerotia (resting fungal nuggets).
Control: Rotate with corn or other grass species. Do not rotate with other vegetable crops,
soybeans, field beans or canola. Do not allow weeds to grow out of control. When using over
head irrigation do not over apply. Plastic mulches on the ground will help in combination with
trickle irrigation to prevent disease development.
Septoria Leaf Spot (fungus)
Characteristics: Causes numerous small grayish circular leaf spots with dark borders. Survives
in crop residue and on seed. Wet weather favours disease development.
Control: Hot water treat seed. Apply protective fungicide sprays on a regular basis. Plow down
crop residue immediately following harvest.
Early Blight (fungus)
Characteristics: Leaf spots are dark brown to black with concentric rings or zones within the
spot. On fruit, large, dark, sunken areas develop particularly at the calyx end or on growth cracks.
Control: Apply fungicide sprays if required. Healthy plants which are not stressed can tolerate
some leaf spotting.
Late Blight (fungus)
Characteristics: Irregular greenish black water soaked areas appear on older leaves. Infected fruit
remains firm but becomes rough with greasy greenish-brown patches. This disease is more
common under cool moist conditions and is the same fungus which causes late blight of potatoes.
A new strain of blight is now well established in this region and is extremely aggressive on
tomatoes.
Control: Apply fungicide sprays. Do not plant near potato fields. Control cull potatoes from the
previous season. See the Atlantic Provinces Potato Guide for more detail.
Anthracnose (fungus)
Characteristics: Common rot of ripe fruit causing circular sunken spots which develop dark
centres. Infection by other secondary organisms may cause complete rotting of fruit. Fruit
becomes more susceptible as it ripens.
Control: Apply fungicide sprays. Follow a 3 year rotation.
Botrytis Rot (fungus)
Characteristics: Gray mold rot of foliage, stem and fruit occurs. Pale green silvery ring marks
with a brownish puncture in the center, known as ghost spot, occurs on the green fruit. The same
rings are generally yellow on ripe fruit. This disease is associated with wet, humid weather. This
is a serious disease of tomatoes every year and is a major cause of fruit rot.
Control: Use fungicides for control in tunnel house or field.
Bacterial Speck and Spot (bacterium)
Characteristics: These two bacterial diseases are spread by seed and transplants and can
overwinter from the previous year's diseased crop. Most spread takes place during transplant
production and is increased by high humidity. Symptoms include black spots on the leaves with a
yellow border and small dark spots on the fruit.
Control: Hot water treat the seed and apply a fungicide seed protectant. Use sterilized soil in the
greenhouse and disinfect flats. If these diseases appear in the greenhouse or field, apply
appropriate fungicide plus copper sprays. Premixing the spray for 90 minutes or longer
(overnight) increases efficacy. If tomatoes are staked use a disinfectant on used stakes. Follow at
least a two year rotation.
Bacterial Canker (bacterium)
Characteristics: This bacterial disease is seed borne and can overwinter for one year in infected
plant debris. Leaves wilt, die and brown cankers develop on the stem. White spots develop on the
fruit with dark corky centers.
Control: Hot water treat the seed and apply a fungicide seed protectant. Use sterilized seeding
mix and disinfect flats and tools. Do not plant into fields which have been infested for at least
two years.
Virus Diseases
Tomato Mosaic: Leaves and occasionally green fruit are mottled with light and dark green
patches. Fruit may ripen unevenly and have internal brown streaks. This highly infectious virus
can be spread simply by touching infected plants.
Cucumber Mosaic: Infected plants are stunted with distorted (shoestring) leaves. Most disease
spread is by aphids feeding first on diseased plants and then on healthy.
Double Virus Streak: This disease is caused by infection of the plant by both tomato mosaic and
PVX virus. Infected plants have mottled leaves, brown streaks on the stems and petioles and
brown greasy blotches on the fruit.
Control: Keep young plants virus-free by sanitation measures and aphid control. Avoid
unnecessary handling of plants. Infections of older, well developed plants do not affect yield
appreciably.
Grow seedlings away from mature tomato plants. Eradicate weed hosts in or near the greenhouse.
Do not keep ornamentals in the same greenhouse with tomato seedlings. Do not smoke or chew
tobacco when handling plants. Wash hands with soap (trisodium phosphate, a detergent, is best)
and water before handling tomato plants. Do not harden transplants by leaving them in headlands
or other weedy places. Do not use cultivators in an infected crop and then in a healthy one.
Non-Parasitic Disorders
Blossom-end Rot
A physiological disorder. Lack of adequate soil moisture and insufficient calcium uptake from
the soil to the fruits during dry weather have been shown to cause this disorder. Excessive
magnesium, potassium, sodium, or ammonium salts, or a deficiency of soluble calcium salts, all
tend to decrease calcium uptake.
Control: Timely irrigation will reduce or prevent this disorder. If drought occurs, and irrigation is
not possible, cultivation should be very shallow to reduce water loss. Hoeing or cultivating
should be done no closer than 30 cm from the plants to avoid root pruning. Maintain a high
organic matter content in the soil and a high soil pH. Spray applications of calcium nitrate or a
preplant application of gypsum will help control this disorder.
Blotchy Ripening
Characteristics: Blotchy Ripening is a disorder which involves irregular fruit ripening. Slow
growth due to plant stress seems to be the cause.
Control: Eliminate heat or moisture stress wherever possible.
Yellow Shoulder
Characteristics: Climatic conditions prevent the red pigment from developing in the wall tissue
near the stem. The shoulders of the tomato then became deep yellow in color. Cultivars with
green shoulders are more susceptible and high temperatures during the growing season aggravate
this problem. Fruits exposed to direct sunlight appear to be the most susceptible.
Control: Avoid susceptible cultivars and protect crops from high temperatures where possible.
Insects
Cutworm
Characteristics: Sometimes a serious problem especially near grassy margins of fields.
Occasionally it can be a widespread problem.
Control: Control couch grass and then perennial weeds in the year prior to planting. Apply
chemical sprays as necessary.
Flea Beetles
Characteristics: Adults are 1.5 to 3 mm long, black or bronze beetles. Their hind legs are well
developed for jumping. The white larvae are in the soil, and therefore seldom seen. Depending
on species, there are one or two generations a year. Adults overwinter in the soil. Eggs are laid on
or near the roots where larvae feed. Mature larvae pupate in the soil near the host plant. Adults
emerge in early August for single-generation species. Last-generation adults feed on foliage until
fall, when they return to the soil to overwinter.
Control: Before transplanting, lightly spray the plants in the flats with a field spray insecticide.
Watch closely in the field as damage may occur suddenly and an insecticide may be needed.
Tomato Fruit Worm (Corn earworm)
Characteristics: This pest is not usually a serious problem. Larvae feed on the fruit. See Corn
Guide for description. During years of high populations of this insect, damage can be severe
when pesticides are not used in a preventative manner.
Control: The insecticides applied for flea beetles will control this pest.
The Colorado Potato Beetle
Characteristics: The Colorado Potato Beetle is an occasional pest. Larvae feed on leaves.
Control: Insecticides applied for the flea beetle will control this pest. Insecticide resistance can
be a problem.
Wireworm
Characteristics: Early in the spring, adult wireworms (click beetles) lay their eggs around grass
roots. The larvae hatch in about a week and, depending on the species, will live for 1 to 5 years in
the ground feeding on roots and seeds. Wireworms require 3 or more years to complete their life
cycle. Wireworms of all sizes and ages are present in the soil throughout the year as there is
always an overlapping of generations. The wireworms, or larvae, are yellow, white or darker
shades of brown. Fully developed larvae may be 1.2 to 4 cm long and have a hard, smooth
surface. When a larva is mature, it pupates in the fall. It then becomes an adult beetle and waits
until spring to emerge. Wireworms are often numerous in land that has been in sod for several
years. They are also more abundant in heavy poorly drained soil.
Wireworms are sometimes confused with millipedes. Millipedes have numerous pairs of legs and
coil up when disturbed, while wireworms have three pairs of legs near the front of the body and
do not coil up. Monitor fields prior to planting and
Control: Monitor fields prior to planting and avoid planting crops highly susceptible to
wireworms in a field that has been recently in sod. See appendix III in the Guide to Pest
Management for Vegetable Crops.
SPECIFIC CHEMICAL CONTROLS FOR THE VARIOUS CROP PESTS DISCUSSED MAY
BE FOUND IN THE ‘GUIDE TO PEST MANAGEMENT’ FOR VEGETABLE CROPS.
Harvesting and Handling
Pick fruit at the ripe, pink or mature-green stage depending on its use and distance to market. At
about 21 C, pink fruits ripen in 1 to 2 days and mature-green fruits in 4 to 5 days. Exposure of
green fruit to ethylene supplied as a gas to harvested fruit, or as a field spray of ethephon,
accelerates ripening. Prolonged exposure to temperatures above 30 C can inhibit red pigment
formation.
Ethephon is used for field ripening of processing tomatoes for once over harvesting.
Storage and Conditioning
Mature-green tomatoes should be stored at 13 C to 21 C. Optimum temperatures for ripening are
between 18 C to 21 C, while 14 C to 16 C is most desirable for slowing ripening without
increasing decay. Firm ripe fruit can be held as low as 7 C to 10 C (pink fruit are stored at
intermediate temperatures, 10 to 15 C). Relative humidity in all cases should be 90 to 95%.
Mature green fruit can be held 2 to 6 weeks while ripe fruit can only be held 1 week in
conventional storage. Controlled atmosphere storage may be used to delay ripening and extend
storage life. Botrytis and Alternaria rots may be a problem, especially if fruit have been chilled in
the field or in storage.
Bibliography
(See also General References)
McKeen, C. D. 1984. Tomato Diseases. Agriculture Canada. Pub. 1479E. 58 pp.
Stephens, C.T., D. G. Helsel, and H. C. Price. 1983. Tomato Disorders. M.S.U. Co-operative
Extension Bulletin E-1679. 15 pp.
Tomato Diseases and Their Control. 1972. U.S.D.A. Agricultural Handbook No. 203. 109 pp.
Diseases and Pests of Vegetable Crops in Canada. 1994. Canadian Phytopathological Society and
Entomological Society of Canada. pp 269 to 289 and pp 489 to 501.
Peppers and Tomatoes Research Profile. 1995. Vegetable and Potato Producers Association of
Nova Scotia. 196 pp.
Commercial Production of Staked Tomatoes in North Carolina. 1990. North Carolina State
University (Ag. Extension Services). 23 pp.",
"Grow Tomatoes from Seed
By Suzanne DeJohn
A crop of tomato seedlings growing in Biodegradable Cowpots.
If you've never bitten into a fragrant, vine-ripened, sun-warmed tomato harvested fresh from
your own garden, you haven't tasted a real tomato. And once you do, you'll never again be
satisfied with the mealy supermarket impostors. Fortunately, tomato plants are easy to grow and
remarkably productive.
Tomatoes are long-season, heat-loving plants that won't tolerate frost, so it's best to set them
into the garden as transplants (young plants) after the weather has warmed up in spring. You
can purchase tomato transplants, but there's something especially rewarding about starting your
own plants indoors. Plus, by growing your own transplants you can choose from among
hundreds of tomato varieties that are available as seed but rarely sold as transplants.
Quick to germinate and grow, tomato seeds are best sown indoors about six weeks before your
average last frost date. (To determine your last frost date, ask a gardening neighbor or call your
Cooperative Extension office.)
Here's what you'll need to start tomato seeds indoors:
Tomato seeds
Sterile seed starting mix
Containers
A warm place with sufficient light
Fertilizer
Seeds
There are hundreds of tomato varieties available as seed, and choosing a few for your home
garden can be a daunting task. Here are a few things to consider:
Decide on the type of tomatoes you want; for example, cherry tomatoes, slicers or
tomatoes for making sauce or paste.
Consider the size of the mature plants. ""Determinate"" tomatoes grow to about 3 feet tall
and are the best choice for containers. ""Indeterminate"" tomatoes get very large, up to 6
feet tall. (All tomatoes benefit from support with cages or ladders.)
Look for disease-resistance. Tomatoes are susceptible to a number of diseases that
may or may not be a problem in your region. To be on the safe side, I always grow at
least one variety with resistance to verticillium and fusarium (designated by a V or F after
the variety name).
For more detailed information, read below How to Select the Right Tomato Variety below.
Seedstarting Mix
Always use a sterile, soilless mix to start seeds. Avoid
garden soil, which often drains poorly and may harbor
disease organisms. Look for mixes labeled for
seedstarting, such as our Germinating Mix; it has a fine
texture that's perfect for delicate seedlings. (Learn
more: Choosing the Right Soil for Seed Starting.)
Containers
You can start your seeds in just about anything that
holds soil and has drainage holes — I've used small
yogurt containers and even egg cartons with holes
poked in the bottoms and waterproof saucers
underneath. However, I've found it more convenient to
use purchased pots, such as Biodegradable Cowpots
and seed starting systems, such as APS seed starters.
Warmth and Light
Seeds germinate best at warm room temperature (70-75F); you can speed germination by
providing bottom heat with a heat mat. Once they're up and growing, seedlings grow best in
cool room temperature, about 65F.
Although you can start your tomatoes on a sunny windowsill, you'll get better results growing
them under some type of grow light. Winter and early spring sunlight isn't nearly as intense as
summer sunlight, and there are fewer hours of daylight, too. Insufficient light can lead to weak,
spindly plants. A light garden with adjustable fluorescent lights is ideal for seed starting. Learn
more: Gardening Under Lights.
Step-By-Step Seed Starting
Here are the steps to successfully starting your tomato seeds.
Thoroughly moisten the seed starting mix, and then fill the containers to within 1/2″ of the
top. Firm the mix but don't compact it.
Place two or three seeds into each small container or each cell of an APS. Cover the
seed with about 1/4″ of soil and gently firm it over the seeds.
Tomato seedlings in a self-watering APS
seedstarter.
Water to ensure good seed-to-mix contact. You can use a plant mister or just dribble a
stream of water over the top. You don't need to soak the soil, just moisten the top layer.
Place the pots in a warm spot or on top of a heat mat. At this point, the seeds don't need
light.
Keep the mix moist but not soaking wet. If your seedstarting system has a greenhouse
top, use it to help hold moisture. Or, you can lay some plastic kitchen wrap over the tops
of the pots.
Check pots daily. As soon as you see sprouts remove the covering and place the pots in the
sunny window or under grow lights, keeping the lights just an inch or two above the
Growing On
Continue to keep the soil moist but not saturated. Dry seedstarting mix is lighter in color than
moist mix — a good indication that it needs watering. Some gardeners run a fan in the room
with their growing seedlings; good air circulation reduces the chances of disease problems,
such as damping off.
If you're growing plants on a windowsill, rotate pots daily so plants grow upright instead of
leaning toward the light. If you're growing under lights, raise the lights as the plants grow,
keeping them just a few inches above the plants.
Thinning. For the strongest, healthiest plants you'll
want just one seedling per pot or cell. Thinning
(removing extra seedlings) is a tough task for many
gardeners who hesitate to dispatch the seedlings
they've been nurturing. But it has to be done. Select
the strongest, healthiest seedling and use a pair of
scissors to snip off the others at the soil line. You can
try to transplant the extras into different pots, but you
risk disturbing the roots of the remaining plant and,
realistically, how many tomato plants can your garden
accommodate?
Fertilizing. Once the second set of true leaves
appears, it's time to begin fertilizing. The first two
leaves are called ""seed leaves;"" subsequent leaves are
called ""true leaves."" Use a soluble fertilizer, such as
PHC for Seedlings, diluted to half the recommended
rate. Apply it once or twice a week.
Repotting. Your tomatoes may need to be
transplanted to larger containers if they outgrow their
pots before it's time to set them outdoors. Don't allow
the plant to get pot-bound, with the roots filling the
container, or growth may be stunted. For step-by-step
instructions, read How to Repot a Tomato Seedling.
Transplanting into the garden. Wait to transplant your tomato seedlings into the garden until
after the average last spring frost date. Be prepared to protect the seedlings with garden fabric
(row cover) if a late frost threatens. If all goes well, you'll be harvesting ripe tomatoes in eight
weeks or less.
Use scissors to thin out crowded seedlings.
How to Select the Right Tomato Variety
For most gardeners, just any old tomato won't do
By Kathy LaLiberte
A bowl of several kinds of small tomatoes: cherry-, plum- and pear-shaped.
From North to South, and coast to coast, tomatoes are consistently the most popular vegetable
in American gardens. But for most gardeners, just any old tomato won't do.
Some like them red, some like them yellow, orange or
even purple! Some prefer tomatoes as tiny as a dime
and some want them as big as a melon. Some like
them juicy, some like them dense and pulpy.
Fortunately, there are almost 700 different tomato
varieties in cultivation today. Plenty of choices for
everyone!
If you've been gardening for many years, you probably
already have a few favorite tomato varieties that you
plant every year. In my own garden, I've tried at least
two dozen different varieties over the years. When
spring comes and it's time to decide which tomato
varieties to grow, here's what I think about: fruit
characteristics, time to maturity, growth habit and
disease resistance.
Disease resistance is important, because tomatoes are vulnerable to a number of diseases
that can weaken the plant and reduce yields. Look at the catalog description, seed packet or
plant label to see if that variety has resistance to verticillium and fusarium wilt, two very common
soil-borne diseases that affect tomatoes. Resistance to these diseases is designated by a V or
F after the variety name. If tomatoes in your region suffer from root-knot nematode (N), Tobacco
Mosaic virus (T) or Alternaria (A), look for resistance to these diseases as well. Late blight has
been a problem in recent years. Do what you can to understand the disease and prevent it.
Two varieties with unusual striping.
Growth habit is important to consider because to get a bumper tomato crop, you need to
provide enough room for the plant and adequate support. Tomato plants have one of two growth
habits. Determinate (bush) varieties grow to a certain height (usually 2-3 ft), set fruit, and then
concentrate on ripening that fruit. Indeterminate (vine) varieties keep growing taller and taller,
setting and ripening fruit until they’re killed by frost.
If you have a limited amount of growing space or will be growing tomatoes in a container, you
should probably select a determinate (bush) variety. Determinate varieties are also good for
cold climate gardeners who need to harvest their whole crop within a couple weeks. If you have
plenty of space, prefer to pick your tomatoes over several months, and are prepared to provide
sturdy support with stakes, cages or ladders, select a an indeterminate variety.
Heirloom, Open-Pollinated or Hybrid?
If you want to save your own seeds from one year to the next, you should plant heirloom or
open-pollinated varieties. Seeds collected from these plants will ""come true"", meaning they will
grow into an identical plant the following year. Heirloom tomatoes such as 'Brandywine', 'Red
Calabash', 'Mortgage Lifter' and 'Arkansas Traveler' are all open-pollinated varieties that have
been passed on from one generation to the next.
Hybrids are a cross between two genetically different varieties that have been selected for
certain desirable traits. Hybrid varieties often offer better disease resistance or higher yields, but
they will not come true from seed.
Most varieties of paste tomatoes are determinate. Because most of the fruit ripens within two or
three weeks, I spend those couple weekends canning, making sauce for the freezer, and
running the dehydrator. Then it's over! Because these determinate plants only get about 2 ft
high, they do fine without any support. I just use plastic or straw mulch to keep the fruit off the
ground.
Most cherry and beefsteak tomatoes are indeterminate. This means the plants get huge, but it
also means they produce fruit continuously from early July right to frost.
Time to maturity is important if you have a short growing season. Where I live, I need to
harvest my tomatoes by early September, before the light fades and frost comes. So I look for
tomato varieties that will start ripening fruit in less than 75 days. Many of the really big beefsteak
varieties require a full 90 days to mature.
Fruit characteristics are what I care about most. I use tomatoes in salads, on sandwiches, and
just to eat out of hand. I dry them, can them and also use them in fresh and frozen sauces. So I
select tomato varieties based on how well they're suited to these uses. Here are three of the
varieties I've been planting lately:
Sun Gold is a 65-day, indeterminate golden-orange cherry tomato. The plants are big
and rangy, so they need to be well staked, and should be surrounded by a strong cage,
such as the Tomato Tower. Support them well, and they'll produce an incredible
abundance of 1"" diameter ultra-sweet fruit over a full 3 months. If you live where
summers are hot, you probably don't have much trouble growing sweet, flavorful
tomatoes. But in areas where summer is short and nights are cool, tomatoes never get
very sweet. I have been so spoiled by Sun Gold's dependable super-sweet flavor that I
now add them to my tomato sauces and slice them onto my sandwiches. I even dry
them to toss into winter salads and pasta dishes.
Big Beef is another indeterminate tomato, but it produces big, 4 to 6"" diameter fruit that
are great for tomato sandwiches. At 80 days, this variety is early for a beefsteak-type, so
I usually get a couple weeks worth of ripe fruit before frost. Tomato Ladders work well for
this variety.
Juliet is a 60-day indeterminate that produces a huge crop. The fruit is oval and it's
about 2"" long. It's firm, glossy and quite dense, like a miniature paste tomato. Juliet
ripens fast and furious, and I use it for soups, sauces, salsas and cold salads. They also
get stewed whole for canning, and get halved for drying.",
"Tomatoes are among the most popular and rewarding crops for summer gardens. While all fruit and vegetables
taste better picked fresh from the garden, tomatoes are in a class of their own. The flavor of a ripe, homegrown
tomato picked on a warm summer day is hard to beat.
Homegrown tomatoes are packed with goodness. Tomatoes provide lycopene, which is an antioxidant found in red
fruit, along with vitamins A and C, carotene and dietary fibre. They consist of approximately 94.5% water.
Tomatoes originated in South and Central America and are part of the Solanaceae or nightshade family, which
also includes potato, tobacco and chilli. First domesticated by the Aztecs before 500BC, there are now
believed to be more than 10,000 tomato cultivars.
Growing Tomatoes
for more info:
Toll Free 1800 335 508
www.seasol.com.au
When to plant
Tomatoes can be grown in most part of Australia. Check with garden centres
and hardware stores for varieties available in your local area.
1. In subtropical and tropical climates tomatoes can be planted and grown
year-round.
2. In cool and temperate regions climates grow tomatoes in the warmest
parts of the year, planting out around October or November. Seeds can be
sown from late winter onwards, but seedlings should not be planted out
until the soil has begun to warm and all chance of frost has passed. If the
weather does turn cold, cover plants overnight to protect them from frost.
3. In warm temperate areas tomatoes are planted from August onwards.
Make several plantings through spring and early summer to keep the fruit
coming well into autumn.
Location
• They grow best in full sun (or with light afternoon shade in hotter
climates). Protect young seedlings with shade cloth.
• In smaller spaces or in containers select patio tomatoes, which are small,
sturdy plants that don’t need large stakes and can grow without support,
or cascading or tumbling varieties that can be grown to spill over the
edge of a pot or raised garden bed. Cherry-style tomatoes have small
fruit but form large plants.
• Do not plant tomatoes in the same location as last season, as this can
expose tomatoes to soil-borne diseases.
• Companion plant with basil, parsley, garlic, marigolds and nasturtiums.
Soil
Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic to neutral,
light, well-drained soil but will also grow well
in slightly alkaline soil.
Dig in compost or well-rotted manure before planting
or apply Seasol Liquid Compost.
In areas with heavy or poorly drained soils, grow
tomatoes in raised garden beds.
A soil rich in nutrients helps build strong plants so add
Seasol Plant + Soil Booster (100g per square metre)
and a fertiliser such as PowerFeed Controlled
Release Tomatoes & Vegetables.
*Check application rates on product
labels or go to the Seasol website.
LIFE CYCLE OF TOMATOES
1
Seed Germination Baby tomato
seedlings
Planting out
tomato seedlings
Tomato
plant growth
Tomato flower and
fruit growth
Tomato harvest
2 3 4 5 6 7
4. Planting out tomato seedlings
Growing Tomatoes
for more info:
Toll Free 1800 335 508
www.seasol.com.au
*Check application rates on product
labels or go to the Seasol website.
1. Sowing seeds 2. Germination
3. Baby tomato seedlings
• Grow from seed sown into individual seed cells or punnets to
transplant in around six weeks.
• Press two or three seeds about 1-2cm down into moist seed
raising mix and cover lightly cover with more mix or vermiculite.
Do not plant the seeds too deep as they will not germinate.
• Water in well with Seasol GOLD or Seasol as this will help to
increase seed germination rates. Soil should be moist but not wet,
so check soil moisture daily to ensure tomato seeds have the
right conditions to germinate.
• Tomatoes can be grown in individual 10-15cm pots or large
containers. Continue to shelter until conditions warm and all threat
of frost has passed before moving seedlings outside.
• Tomatoes need warm conditions to germinate
(16°C and above). Expect germination in 6-14 days
(slower rates in colder conditions).
• For faster seed germination rates in seed trays, put them
inside on a heating pad.
• When tomatoes sprout, they only have two leaves. These
seedlings leaves look like two narrow leaves on either side
of the stem.
• Water gently and apply Seasol GOLD or Seasol weekly
(30mL of concentrate per 9 litres of water)
as this will help to stimulate strong root
development and healthy growth.
• About two weeks after the seed leaves have opened, the true
leaves will appear; these are the first tomato leaves.
• If overcrowding occurs, select the strongest seedling and thin
out or transplant the rest.
• Use scissors or tweezers to thin out seedlings to avoid
disturbing young roots.
• Tomato seedlings need a lot of nutrients to grow to produce
a tasty bumper crop so liquid feed with PowerFeed PRO
SERIES for Tomatoes & Vegetables every 2 weeks. Increase the
application rates from 20mL to 50mL of concentrate per 9 litres
of water as the plants mature.
• Check soil moisture daily and water as needed.
• Transplant homegrown seedlings when they
form two to three true leaves and are large
enough to handle. Space 50-60cm apart (depending on variety)
in rows at least 60cm apart (greater spacing makes it easier to
manage and train vines).
• Most tomatoes are tall-growing vines (indeterminate) that need
plenty of space and the support of 2-3m high stakes, a tripod or
trellis to grow strong and healthy.
• Where seedlings have been purchased, plant according to the
directions on the plant tag.
• Seedlings or grafted plants should be planted deeply, burying the
bottom few centimetres of the stem in the soil to encourage extra
root formation which not only gives the plant extra support but
also can source extra nutrients and water.
• Check the moisture level of the soil daily and water when needed.
5. Tomato plant growth
• Tie growth to supports using
a soft tie so as not to damage
the stem. Tie below a leaf stalk
or flower cluster.
• Control the bushiness of the plant by pruning out laterals
(shoots from the leaf axils). This also allows more sunlight to
reach developing fruit.
• As the plant reaches the top of the stake, it can be tip pruned
to control its size.
• Every 6-8 weeks apply another application of PowerFeed
Controlled Release Tomatoes & Vegetables to produce a
bumper crop of tasty tomatoes and to revitalise depleted soils.
Remember to water it in thoroughly after application.
Growing Tomatoes
• In fruit fly zones begin to protect fruit as
soon as it is fully sized and well before it
ripens.
• Green fruit ripen indoors but flavour is at its best when tomatoes
are vine ripened.
• Healthy tomato plants continue to fruit and grow until cold conditions
halt growth.
• Keep tomato plants healthy by removing dead and diseased leaves
and stems. This will also opens up air circulation around the plant.
for more info:
Toll Free 1800 335 508
www.seasol.com.au
*Check application rates on product
labels or go to the Seasol website.
• Remove weeds as they appear as they
compete for space and nutrients.
• Mulch around each plant suppresses
weeds and helps retain soil moisture
and can prevent the spread of
mites to the leaves.
• Fruiting quickly follows
flowering and will form in
12-20 weeks from sowing seed.
• As flowers begin, apply
PowerFeed PRO SERIES for
Tomatoes & Vegetables and
Seasol GOLD or Seasol weekly.
7. Tomato harvest
6. Tomato flower & fruit growth
Things to watch out for...
• Fruit fly These pests (Queensland fruit fly and medfly), which are found
in all parts of Australia except South Australia, Tasmania and Victoria,
can ruin tomato crops. To protect tomatoes as they ripen, regularly
apply baits containing spinosad such as Eco Naturalure (follow the
instructions on the container), bag fruit or pick fruit to ripen indoors.
• Tomato russet mite While this tiny mite is hard to see, its damage is
obvious particularly in hot weather. Leaves start to brown and die from
the base of the plant moving upwards. It can also cause corky damage
to fruit. Control with regular applications tomato dust, which will also
control other pests such as caterpillars and thrips. Removing lower
leaves can also slow the attack.
• Blossom end rot Water-stressed tomatoes fail to take up enough
calcium from the soil and their fruit can be affected by blossom end
rot, which causes brown, leathery patches to form at the base of the
fruit. Increase frequency of watering.
• Target spot Brown spots and yellowing leaves indicate the fungal
disease known as target spot, which can also spread to stems and
fruit. Control with registered fungicides. Crop rotation is important to
control this disease, which also attacks potatoes and weeds in the
Solanaceae family.
• Tomato viruses There are a range of viruses that cause tomato plants
to wilt or die back. Most are also found on other Solanaceae plants
including potatoes and weeds. Sap-sucking insects such as thrips can
spread viral diseases. Manage by following crop rotation (not growing
Solanaceae crops in the same beds in successive seasons), controlling
weeds and controlling pests. Remove any affected plants. There are no
chemical controls.
• Tomato ripening Tomatoes may stop flowering and fruiting when
temperatures rise above 35°C however, when the temperatures drop
below this level, they’ll return to productivity.",
"TOMATO	PRODUCTION
Introduction
Tomato	is	a	popular	garden	vegetable	used	in	salads,	as	a	vegetable,	processed	into	 tomato	
paste,	sauce	and	puree.	Tomato	is	very	rich	in	vitamins.	 It	belongs	 to	 the	Nightshade	 family	
along	with	potatoes,	peppers	and	eggplants.
Types	of	tomato
There	are	2	types	of	Tomatoes	– determinate	and	indeterminate	types.
Determinate	types
The	 determinate	 tomatoes,	 or	 ""bush""	 tomatoes,	 grow	 to	 a	 height	 3	 - 4'	 and stop	 growing	
when	 fruit	 sets	 on	 the	 top	 bud.	All	 the	 tomatoes	 from	 the	plant	 ripen	at	approximately	 the	
same	 time	 (usually	 over	a	period	 of	1- 2	weeks).	They	are	mainly	grown	 for	canning.	They	
require	a	limited	amount	of	staking	 for	support.	Examples	of	determinate	 tomato include –
Oxyl,	Rambo	F1,	and	Sandokan	F1.
Indeterminate	types
Indeterminate	tomatoes	can	grow	to	well	over	6’.	They	flower,	set	new	fruit	and	ripen	fruits	
for	many	months.	 They	 require	 substantial	 staking	 for	 support.	 Examples	 of	indeterminate	
tomatoes include – Chonto	F1,	Bravo	F1,	and	Mavuno	F1.
Image:	Wikihow.com
Indeterminate	variety	keeps	growing	while	determinate	stops	growing	after	the	first	harvest
Ecological	requirements
Temperature	
Tomato	is	a	warm-season	crop	that	is	sensitive	to	frost.	An	average	temperature	of	20	-24	°C	
is	 needed	 for	 good	 growth	&	 yield	 and	 high	 fruit	 quality.	 Fruit	 set	 and	 quality	 are	 poor	 at	
temperatures	 below	 12	 °C	 while temperatures	 above	 35	 °C	 with	 hot,	 dry	 winds	 cause	
excessive	 flower	drop.	Continuous	moist,	 rainy	weather	conditions	 result	in	 the	occurrence	
and	spread	of	foliar	diseases.	
Soil	requirements	
Tomato	grows best	in	deep,	well-drained	loams.	The	soil	should	be	rich	in	organic	matter	and	
plant	nutrients,	with	a	pH	value	of	6	-7.
Tomato	does	well	under	the	following	conditions:
• Medium	rainfall	range	of	760	- 1300	mm	though	can	be	done	under	irrigation
• Optimum	temperature	of	20-25℃ during	the	day	and	15-17℃ at	night
• Well-drained light	loam-fertile	soils	with	a	pH	of	5-7.
Use	certified	tomato	seeds.	These	are	disease	free	and	give higher	yield.
Varieties	preference	may	depend	on	where	to	grow	(greenhouse	or	open	field),	target	market	
i.e. canning	or	fresh	market.
Growing	tomatoes
Tomatoes	are	first	started	in	a	nursery	for	3-4	weeks	before	transferring	to	the	field.	
Nursery	establishment
Tomato	is	first	started	in	a	nursery.	Nursery	should	be	an	area	that	does	not	flood.	Make	it on	
a	 level	 ground	 to	 avoid	 erosion	 of	 soil,	 seed	 &	 nutrients.	 You	 will	 need	 about	 100g	 of	
seed/acre.	
Follow	the	steps	below	to	make	a	good	nursery:	
1. Select	 a	 site	 and	 a	 field	 in	 which	 a	 crop	 of	 tomato	 family	 e.g.	 potato,	 eggplant,	 pepper,	
tobacco	 had	 not	 been	 previously	 grown.	 Since	 same	 pests	 and	 diseases	 attack	 them,	
seedlings	can	easily	be	affected.
2.	Make	 raised	 nursery	 beds	 15	 cm	 above	 the	ground	 and	 1	metre	wide	 to	 easily	 reach	 all	
plants.
3.	Put	1	debe	of	manure	for	every	square	metre	of	nursery	bed	and	mix	well	with	soil.
4. To	plant	make	shallow	furrow	(about)	1cm	&	15-20	cm	apart	across	the	bed	and	place	the	
seeds.
5. Cover	lightly	with	soil	and	put	dried	grass	as	mulch	on	the	nursery	bed
6. Spray	the	soil	with	an	insecticides	like	Pearl	50SC	and	a	fungicide	like	CONTROL	70DF	to	
stop	early	pests	and	diseases	in	the	nursery
7. The	seeds	will	sprout	within	8	days.
8. When	seedling	sprout,	remove	the	mulch	and	make	a	shade	over	the	bed
9. Water	the	seedlings	2-3	times	a	week.
Image:	Shamba	Shape	Up
Make a	raised	bed	15cm	high	&	have	a	shade	
Image:	Shamba	Shape	Up
Drench	in	the	nursery	and	after	transplanting
Transplanting
Transplant	Tomato	seedlings	from	the	nursery	when	they	have	developed	strong	root	&	top	
growth.	This	is	after	3-4	weeks after	planting	in	the	nursery	&	seedlings	are	6-10	inches	tall.
Image:		Shamba	Shape	Up
For	transplanting,	select	healthy	seedlings	6-10	inches	tall	and	with	at	least	3-4	leaves
Procedure	for	transplanting:
1. 6-9	 days	 before	 transplanting	 reduce	 amount	 of	 watering	 &	 remove	 shade	 to	 harden	 &	
prepare	seedlings	to	outdoor	conditions.
2.	To	reduce	transplant	shock	of	seedlings,	transplant	seedlings	in	the	evening	or	on	a	cloudy,	
cool	day.	Avoid	transplanting	in	a	hot,	sunny,	windy	day.
3.	When	transplanting	the	seedlings	from	nursery,	pull	them	up	with	a	lump	of	soil.	This	will			
stop	roots	drying	out	&	seedling	with	establish	faster.
Planting	Out
1.	It	is	recommended	to	make	a	soil	test	3-5	months	before	crop	is	planted.	 This	will	enable	
you	to	make	an appropriate	fertilizer	management	programme	for	good	growth	and	high	
yield	 without	 wasting	 fertilizer.	 You	 will	 also	 detect	 if	 soil	 has	 serious	 diseases	 like	
Bacterial	wilt.
2.	If	soil	testing	has	not	been	done,	make	holes	about	15cm	deep,	put	a	handful	of	manure	&1	
bottle-top	of	Mavuno	planting	fertilizer.	Plant	1	seedling/hole	(with	leaves	5-10cm	above	
the	soil)	&	firm	the	soil	around	the	plant.
3.	 Water	 Tomato	 plants	 regularly,	 putting	 water	 at	 the	 stem	 (not	 leaves),	 water	 early	 in	
morning	or	later	in the	day	but	not	at	night.	This	will	reduce	some	fungal	diseases
4. Mulch	the	seedlings	3-5	weeks	after	planting	(not	earlier)	by	placing	dry	grass	at	the	base	
of	the	plants.	The	grass	will	keep	off	weeds,	stop	soil	from	drying	&	also	stop	pests.
Image:	Shamba	Shape	Up
The	 right	 spacing	 for	 transplanting	 tomatoes	is	 45cm	 from	 on	 plant	 to	 another	 on	 rows	
60cm	apart
Fertilization	(Top-dressing	&	Foliar	Feed)
1.	 Top-dress	 the	 plants	 with	 MAVUNO	 TOPDRESS	 26:0:0	 at	 10g/plant	 after	 3-4	 weeks	 of	
transplanting.		Leaf	establishment in	the	plant	uses nitrogen	in	the	fertilizer.	
2.	 Top-dress	 again	 with	 MAVUNO	 NPK	 15:10:22	 at	 10g/plant	 when	 plants	 flower.	 The	
compound	 fertilizer	 is	 necessary	 for	 the	 supply	 of	 Nitrogen,	 Phosphorus	 and	 Potassium	
that	is	needed	for	flowering.
3.			The	NPK	(compound)	fertilizer	NPK	top-dress	should	be	repeated	after	the	first	harvest.	
4. In	addition	 to	NPK	Tomato	 require	other	nutrients	 (known	as	micro-nutrients)	in	small	
quantities.	To	provide	these,	foliar	feeds	should	be	applied	regularly.
5. During	 flowering	 &	 fruit	 setting	 avoid	 excessive	 Nitrogen;	 it	 leads	 to	 excess	 vegetative	
growth,	poor	fruit	set,	smaller	fruits,	hollow	fruits	and	poor	keeping	quality.
6. Inadequate	calcium	can	lead	to	Blossom-end	rot	disease;	this	disease	can	be	corrected	by	
applying	calcium	fertilizers	or	foliar	spray	such	as	EASYGRO	Calcium.
Weeding
1.	 Weeds	 use	 food	 from	 the	 soil,	 space	 and	 water	 that	 Tomato	 crop	 needs.	 Pests	 stay	 on	
weeds	and	will	jump	across	and	cause	harm	to	your	crop.	Take	off	the	weeds	often.	
2.		If	weeds	are	left	uncontrolled,	severe	infestations	can	reduce	yield	at	least	50%
3.	 Use	 of	 mulch	 acts as	 a	 barrier	 to	 the	 growth	 of	 many	 weeds	 and	 at	 the	 same	 time	
conserving	moisture	in	the	soil.
4.	Hand	weeding	is	recommended	both	for	the	greenhouse	and	outdoor	tomatoes.
Image:	Shamba	Shape	Up
Take	out	weeds	using	a	jembe to	keep	field	weed-free.	Mulching	stop	weeds	from	growing
Supporting	the	plant
Tomato	 plant	is	 supported	 to	allow	 free	air	movement	and	 reduces	moisture	accumulation	
thus	reducing	disease	incidences.	
1.	 Tying	 the	 plant	 on	 poles	 and	 wires	 does the support.	 This	 is	 usually	 done	 early	 at	 3-4	
weeks	after	transplanting	– to	avoid	plant	damage.
2.	Tie	a	string	lightly	on	the	tomato	and	then	gently	twine	the	string around	the	plant	to	avoid	
snapping	the	stem.	Alternatively,	a	peg	can	be	inserted	in	soil	just	adjacent	to	the	tomato	
and	a	string	tied	on	to	it	and	then	tied	on	the	barbed	wire	above; the	tomato	is	then	made	
to	wind	on	the	string.
Staking
Staking	 is	 required	 to	 support	 plants	 once	 the	 fruiting	 starts	 especially	 for	 indeterminate	
types.
§ It	keeps	vines	and	leaves	off	the	ground; fruit	is	cleaner	with	less	rotting.
§ It	makes	harvesting	easier.
§ It	makes	it	easier	working	around	plants.
Image:	Shamba	Shape Up
Support	tomato	stems	by	staking	for	clean	and	quality	fruit
How	to	stake
1.	Use	 stakes	 (wooden,	 metal,	 bamboo	 cane)	 and	 push	 them	 into	 the	 soil	 1-2	 inches	 away	
from	the	main	stem.	
2.	Loosely	tie	the	main	stem	to	the	stake	with	a	soft	thick	cord	that	will	not	cut	into	the	stem	
over	time.
Image:	Wikihow.com
Fix	stakes	close	to	plants	and	tie	loosely	around	the	plant	
Pruning
This	is	the	regular	removal	of	side	shoots	to	remain	with	two	healthy	stems.
1.	Weekly	scout	for	side	shoots	before	they	develop	into	big	shoots.
2.	Remove	 side	 shoots,	 laterals,	 old	 leaves,	 diseased	 leaves	 &	 branches	 and	 overshadowed	
lower	leaves	by	hand.
3.	Remove	flowers	to	5-6	per	cluster	so	as	to	get	medium- large	sized	fruits.
4.	To	avoid	the	spread	of	diseases	from	plant	to	plant,	do	not	use	secateurs	or	a	knife,	‘pinch	
out’	instead	using	your	thumb	and	forefinger.
5.	After	 formation	 of	 the	 first	 fruit	 cluster	 of	 mature	 green	 tomatoes	 remove	 all	 the	 lower	
older	leaves	to	allow	for	ventilation	and	disperse	food	to	the	fruits.
Image:	Wikihow.com
When	pruning,	remove	old	leaves,	excess	flower	clusters	and	side	shoots
Pests	and	Diseases
Regularly,	look	out	for	pests	&	diseases	in	Tomato	crop	&	control	them	as	soon	as	possible.	
Pests
Scouting	 two	 to	 three	times	per	week,	however,	allowing	 for	early	detection	of	infestations	
and	 timely	 application	 of	 pest	 specific	 control	 measures is	 the	 most	 cost-effective	
management	strategy.
The	best	time	to	look	for	pests	is	in	the	morning	when	they	are	on	the	plant	before	leaving	to	
feed.
Common	pests	include;	Aphids,	 thrips,	whiteflies,	cutworms,	bollworms,	leaf	miners,	spider	
mites	and	nematodes.
Disease
Diseases	 cause	 Tomato	 to	 have	 poor	 yield	&	 poor	 quality.	 They	 are	more	 serious	in	 hot	&	
humid	weather.
Common	diseases	include:	Wilts,	Blight,	Leaf	spots	and	mildews.
1. For	the	control	of	pests,	cultural	methods	are	the	best	e.g.	clean	weeding,	use	of	certified	
seed,	destroying	alternate	hosts	etc.
2.	Do	not	wait	till	the	pest	or	disease	symptoms	begin	to	show.	Carry out	preventive	spraying;
observe	the	product	label	recommendations	in	each	case.	For	diseases	e.g.	mildews,	blight,	
copper-based	or	sulphur-based	fungicides	are	used.
3.	Viral	diseases	can	be	controlled	by	controlling	vectors.	Key	vectors	include;	aphids, thrips,	
whiteflies	and	nematodes",
"Tomatoes
NEP-224
Growing Your Own
A beginner’s guide to gardening
Tomatoes are a popular summer crop that many consider to be a basic part of the home garden. Growing
tomatoes can require more labor compared to other vegetables, but the results can be very rewarding.
Varieties
There are two different kinds of tomato plants. Indeterminate tomatoes keep growing taller all season. Determinate tomatoes grow to a certain height and then stop.
Early Girl
(Photo: Johnny's Selected Seeds, johnnyseeds.com)
Terenzo
(Photo: All-American Selections)
Determinate tomato plants
are shorter than indeterminate
plants. They can be staked, caged,
or trellised, and need to be pruned
only once. The harvest period is
shorter compared to indeterminate types. You will harvest more
tomatoes over a shorter period of
time compared to indeterminate
types.
Some varieties of determinate
tomatoes are:
• Celebrity
• Mountain Fresh
• Carolina Gold (golden yellow)
• Plum Dandy (paste)
• Terenzo (cherry)
This institution is an equal
opportunity provider.
This material was partially
funded by USDA’s
Supplemental Nutrition
Assistance Program—SNAP.
This work is supported by the Expanded
Food and Nutrition Education Program
from the USDA National Institute of
Food and Agriculture.
Indeterminate tomato plants
must be trellised in order to stay
upright. Pruning lower suckers
(side branches) as the plants grow
taller is recommended. Tomato
harvest continues throughout the
summer season as the plant grows.
Some varieties of indeterminate
tomatoes are:
• Better Boy
• Beefsteak (large fruit)
• Early Girl
• Juliet (grape)
• Jolly (pear shaped)
• Supersweet 100 (cherry)
• Sungold (golden yellow cherry)
• Cherokee Purple (heirloom,
dark purple)
• Brandywine (heirloom, red,
pink, and yellow types)
2
How much to plant
Plan for two or three plants for each person in
your family. This should provide enough fresh
tomatoes for everyone for most of the summer.
For a family of five, that would be 10 to 15 plants.
If you set out five plants for each person in your
family, you should have enough to eat all summer and early fall. Plus, you should have enough
to be able to can tomatoes for meals next winter
and spring. That would be 25 plants for a family of
five.
A wire cage is one of the easiest ways
to keep the plant off the ground,
which results in better quality fruit.
(Photo: Matt Barton, UK CES Agriculture
Communications)
Tomatoes can be supported by a
stake, but you will need to loosely tie
the plant around the stake as it grows
taller.
(Photo: Matt Barton, UK CES Agriculture
Communications)
Several tomatoes in a row can be
supported by a trellis. There are many
different options to create a trellis.
Even using a wire fence is an option.
Plants will need to be loosely tied to
the trellis.
When and how to plant
Tomatoes are a warm-weather crop. They should
not be planted until all danger of frosty weather is
past. Safe days for planting in Kentucky are about
May 1st (Western) and May 15th (Central and Eastern). Try to plant the tomatoes in the evening or on
a cloudy day so they will not dry out.
It is best to buy tomato plants ready to set in
the garden in early May. You can try starting
tomato seeds indoors in mid-March, but you will
need a very bright window for plants to do well.
• Plant tomatoes in rows about four feet apart.
Put plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the row. Dig
a hole six inches deep for each tomato plant.
• Stake the plants. Put a six-foot stake about four
inches from each plant. Drive the stake 8 to 10
inches deep into the soil.
• Prune and tie the plants. As the plant grows,
new shoots start where the leaves join the stem.
Let the first shoot grow into a second main
stem. Each week pinch off all other shoots
Cherokee Purple
(Photo: Johnny’s Selected
Seeds, johnnyseeds.com)
3
Pests and
diseases
Tomatoes are susceptible to pests and
diseases throughout the
season. Protect young
plants from cutworms
by placing a cardboard
tube around the base of
the plant. Hornworms
will eat both leaves and
fruit and can be taken off by hand or by cutting
away the foliage they are feeding on. They can be
squashed under foot or disposed of in the trash.
Corn earwoms feed on fruit and may burrow
inside. Pull the worms off or use a pesticide.
As tomato plants mature, portions of the plant need to be
removed, which improves fruit quality and yield. The arrow
in the photo is pointing at what is called a “sucker,” or side
shoot, which needs to be removed. Otherwise, the plants
will produce more leaves and less fruit.
(Photo: Matt Barton, UK CES Agriculture Communications)
A cutworm eating the
stem of a plant.
(Photo: R.J. Reynolds
Tobacco Company Slide
Set, R.J. Reynolds Tobacco
Company, Bugwood.org)
Tomato
hornworms
eat the leaves
and stems of
tomato plants.
This reduces
the amount of
tomato fruit
that is produced.
(Photo: Fox & Hen
Farm, LLC)
There is a beneficial wasp that
lays eggs in the
body of tomato
hornworms.
Worms that have
been affected
by this will have
white cocoonlike structures
on their back.
This is good
for hornworm
management.
Do not remove
hornworms that
show signs of this
wasp.
(Photo: Fox & Hen
Farm, LLC)
growing on the two main stems, but be careful
not to remove flower clusters close by. When
the plant reaches 12 to 15 inches high, tie it
to the stake. Use a heavy twine. Tie the twine
tightly to the stake and then loop it around the
plant. Each time the plant grows another 12
inches, add a tie.
• Fertilize in summer. Once tomato fruit has
reached a large size (about two weeks before the
first harvest), scatter some urea fertilizer along
sides of each row. Use only four to five tablespoons full per 10 feet of row. Add the same
amount of fertilizer two to three weeks after
first harvest. You may switch the urea fertilizer
with a water-soluble fertilizer, which is dissolved in water and poured around the plants.
Follow the advice from the label when preparing and applying water-soluble fertilizer.
4
Corn earworms will feed on the surface of the tomato fruit
and may also tunnel into the fruit.
(Photo: Alton N. Sparks, Jr., University of Georgia, Bugwood.org)
Tomato blossom end rot is often caused by high temperatures and low soil moisture. Be sure to water your plants
regularly. You may also put a light layer of straw around the
base of the plants to help keep soil moist.
(Photo: Brenda Kennedy, University of Kentucky, Bugwood.org)
Blossom end rot may be prevented by keeping
even soil moisture during the growing season. A
mulch of straw or leaves may help. Move tomatoes
to a new part of the garden every few years. This
will lessen soil-based disease problems.
Tomato plants may be very attractive to bees
and other pollinators. Do not apply pesticides
when pollinators are present. For more information on managing pests and diseases, contact your
county Extension agent or consult the UK Cooperative Extension publication Growing Vegetables
at Home in Kentucky (ID-128) at www2.ca.uky.edu/
agcomm/pubs/id/id128/id128.pdf.
Harvesting
Tomatoes can be picked from the vine when
they first start to ripen. They will fully ripen indoors. Waiting until the tomatoes are fully colored on the vine does not make them taste better.
Birds and rodents may be drawn to the bright
color. Before the first frost, pick off all tomatoes,
even the green ones that are the right size. Wrap
them in newspaper, place in a box, and store in
a cool place indoors. Check tomatoes every few
days and move the ripened ones to a warmer, lit
area. This method may result in “fresh” tomatoes
for four to six weeks, but the flavor may lessen
with time. Lastly, green tomatoes are edible. If
you wish to eat green tomatoes, harvest when
tomatoes are full size but before any red color is
present.
Clean Up
Pull plants out of the ground after frost kills
them and throw them away or place them on a
compost pile.
Many people think tomatoes are one of the best things
about growing a home garden. Pick them when they first
start to ripen and let them ripen fully inside.
(Photo: Fox & Hen Farm, LLC)
5
Serving
Tomatoes are rich in nutrients that promote
good health, including fiber and vitamins A and
C. A medium tomato contains about 25 calories,
20 mg sodium, and is a good source of potassium.
Tomatoes can be eaten raw or cooked.
Storing
Store ripe tomatoes at room temperature and
use them within three days. Keep out of direct
sunlight. Place green tomatoes in a paper bag to
ripen. Tomatoes will store longer when refrigerated but may lose quality.
Preserve your garden’s harvest by home canning tomatoes and tomato products. This can
help save money and gain control over what is in
your food. When canning, do not use tomatoes
Serve tomatoes raw or cooked.
(Photo: Fox & Hen Farm, LLC)
that are overripe or beginning to spoil. To ensure
safe, high-quality home-canned products, always
follow research-based recommendations when
canning. For more information on home canning
tomatoes, please refer to University of Kentucky
Cooperative Extension publication Home Canning Tomatoes and Tomato Products (FCS3-580) at
http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/FCS3/
FCS3580/FCS3580.pdf or contact your county
Extension agent.
Canning is a good way to preserve tomatoes for future use.
(Photo: Fox & Hen Farm, LLC)
Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin,
national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or
physical or mental disability. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Nancy
M. Cox, Director of Cooperative Extension Programs, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Food and Environment, Lexington, and Kentucky State University, Frankfort.
Copyright © 2020 for materials developed by University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its entirety for educational or non- profit purposes only. Permitted users shall give credit to the author(s) and include this copyright notice. Publications are also available on the World Wide Web at www.ca.uky.edu.
8-2020
Cooperative Extension Services | Agriculture and Natural Resources | Family and Consumer Sciences | 4-H Youth Development | Community and Economic Development
Authors:
Rachel Rudolph, Extension Vegetable Specialist,
and Rick Durham, Extension Consumer
Horticulture Specialist
Contributions by:
Matt Barton, Agriculture Communication
Specialist, Jann Knappage, Food System Specialist,
and Katie Shoultz, Marketing and Media
Specialist",
"Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 1 of 10
Growing food at home series
Growing tomatoes
Pack D Notes 7
Types of tomatoes
There are many different types of tomatoes to choose from and a great variety in the fruits they
produce; some are better for cooking others best straight from bush to salad or sandwich. Home
gardeners can grow varieties that are not commonly available in the grocery stores as they have
limited storage ability even though their flavor maybe excellent.
Select varieties for the use you prefer.
There are four broad shape classifications for tomatoes:
 Globe tomatoes: the most heavily commercially-cultivated fruit are large and round good for eating raw
or cooking e.g. mande
 Beefsteak tomatoes: biggest fruit used for sandwiches e.g. brandywine, mortgage lifter, grosse lisse
 Plum/Paste tomatoes: small oval thick-walled fruit used to make sauces .e.g. romas, amish paste
 Cherry tomatoes: smallest fruit good for snacks and salads e.g. tommy toe, black cherry
Growing habit (shapes)
The plants themselves grow in different shapes and heights; some require
staking or can be let ramble, whilst others are smaller and bushier.
Taller types e.g. Grosse Lisse, need to be supported by a stake (unless you
want them to ramble and climb - this can make it difficult to keep pests and
away and trim off diseased leaves) are also called indeterminate. These plants
tend to produce fruits all season long with the fruits produced at intervals
along their stems. Space these 80 – 100 cm apart.
Smaller and bushier types e.g. Roma, called determinate and don’t require
staking. They produce their fruits at the end of their branches and tend to bear
most of their fruits all at once for a couple of weeks and then production fades
out. That’s because it eventually forms a flower cluster at the terminal growing
point, which causes it to stop growing in height. Space these 50 – 60 cm apart.
Images: http://squarefoot.creatingforum.com/t3013-tomatoes-determinate-vs-indeterminate
Growing tomatoes
Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 2 of 10
Tomatoes may take 4-5 months until harvest, so some consideration of which varieties suit your interests
and capacity needs to be taken. Plant at interval for extended crops.
Site selection
They will need at least 6 hours of sunlight, preferably morning sun and shelter
from strong winds and western sun after 3pm. Orient your beds to maximise
sunlight. In extreme heat periods- 35° to 40°, they will need to be shaded.
Because of potential diseases that stay in the soil, plant in a section of the vegetable patch where
tomatoes have not been grown for 2-3 years.
Preparing the soil
Tomatoes prefer a pH range of 5.5 – 7. The clays soils feature in most of the suburbs of City of
Salisbury are alkaline. Test your soil with a pH testing kit these are readily available at garden
stores. If the soil pH is too alkaline add Agricultural Sulphur at the recommended rates, and if too
acid, use lime as per instructions on the packet.
Tomatoes are heavy feeders that need rich, well-draining soil. Deal with drainage first, if you have
clay soils add 60% or more of course builders to make it crumbly, or gypsum at a rate of a 9 litre
bucket per 1 metre square. Then build up the nutrients in garden beds. We have found preparing
the soil early, at least 6-8 weeks before planting, maybe the end of July for late September
planting, advantageous. Too much nitrogen will give you big plants with little fruit, so make sure
the any manures you add are well rotted, and check the nitrogen component of any other
fertiliser is relatively low. Build the soil for feeding the plant when it is larger by mixing in the bed:
 Organic matter including compost, gypsum (for calcium), pelletised chicken manure (Yate’s
“Dynamic Lifter” or Neutrog’s “Gygantic” or “Sudden Impact for Roses”) or well- rotted manure -
sheep or cow,blood and bone, and Sulphate of Potash
 Water in and let sit until the weather is better and soil warmer for planting. Check the moisture
levels if there is no rain you may need to water to keep the soil moist and the microorganism in the
soil active
Lyn’s preferred soil preparation:
Start in winter about 6-8 weeks before planting. Lightly turn the soil, and make sure its moist
 Pelletised chicken manure- 2 good handful of per square metre
 Blood and bone- 1 good handful per square metre
 Seamungus - 2 good handful per square metre
 Sulphate of potash-1 small handful per square metre
 Egg shells pulverised- scatter ½ handful per square metre
 Turn over lightly and water
 Repeat at 2 week intervals but don’t add any manure later than 4 weeks before planting.
 When planting add a small amount of Sulphate of Potash, and throughout growing season when they
flower to help set fruit
Growing tomatoes
Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 3 of 10
Selecting healthy seedling
Select healthy young seedlings for planting. A healthy seedling is upright with a strong stem, not
spindly, has lush green leaves not any yellow leaves or ones with spots on them and has some new
growth. A few roots coming out of the holes in the bottom of the pot means its roots are
established, too many roots coming through come may mean it is pot bound and not worth
purchasing. Mildly pot bound where the roots are occupying the container is fine, and should help
the plants establish flowers early. Add pinch of potash to the seedlings will help them flower too,
which helps them get off to producing fruit early, not foliage.
Before planting remove side shoots and suckers from the lower part of the stem and plant them
deep (7.5-10cm) with only the last two leaves just above the ground. This will encourage strong
root growth as roots will develop along the buried stem.
Remove side shoots and plant deep to
encourage strong root development
Staking and supports
Plan how you are going to grow your tomatoes and put their supports in when planting
Imageshttp://www.vegetablegardener.com/item/5157/how-to-support-tomatoes
Staking should be done before planting with consideration as
to how you are going to prune as this will determine your
staking requirements. Staking is important as the weight of
fruit can cause the stems to strain and possibly split which
allow access to diseases. You can use 1 stake per plant, one
on each side, three for a triangle. Trellis can be made fence,
wire; anything that will provide support to the plant will do,
although metal can heat up in the sun and burn tomato
leaves. Tree tomatoes and vigorous varieties e.g. Grosse Lisse and Sweet Bite need staking.
Growing tomatoes
Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 4 of 10
Note: Reduce disease by using only clean and sterlised materials
Clean and sterilize stakes by soaking them in diluted bleach at the end of the season to prevent
transferring soil borne diseases.
Use soft material as ties such as stocking, old tee shirts ripped into strips or plant tie ribbon;
anything with some give in it. String will quickly cut into a stem on a windy day so avoid.
Planting
In Adelaide planting out when the soil temperature is
warm; in spring is the best time. But the overnight
temperatures can still be low then so late spring may be
better. Harden the seedling up before you plant them by
leaving them in the same conditions that they will be
growing in for a few hours over a few days prior to
planting.
 Plant tomatoes when the soil temperature is in the 15-20°C range - the preferred growing
temperature, which is around late October to mid November. It’s best to plant when the
night time temperatures are about 15°C. When planting, ensure that the temperatures on
the following days are not going to be too hot
 Space plants, still in containers, on the raised mound between trenches. Spacing depends
on growing habit they need to be a reasonable distance apart to allow space to grow,
access soil nutrition and have plenty of air around them
 Position stakes before planting to prevent root damage. Taller growers will be easier to
harvest and take up less space if grown up a wire frames, tee-pee like sticks, stakes or
trellis.
 Place 1tsp of blood and bone either side of the plant
 Water in seedlings with a diluted seaweed extract 1:10 ratio
Tip: Growing tomatoes in trenches is useful to channel water and fertiliser to plant roots. It’s also
beneficial to prevent fungal infections which are easily spread by watering on their leaves.
Dig the trench, and fertilise as you would for growing in normal beds
Plastic tube attached to stakes or on the ground around plant roots left over night on cold nights can keep
the soil temperature warmer and keep plant growth more consistent in spring.
Growing tomatoes
Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 5 of 10
Watering
Tomato plants require regular to establish good growth and fruit set. Stress due to lack of water
will reduce the quality and yield, and ultimately shorten the life of the plant. The soil type and
rainfall will determine how frequently you need to water; clay soils hold water and will need to be
watered less frequently than sandy soils. Soil around the roots needs to be always moist.
 During the growing period if rain has not been regular you will need to water. Train the
roots to go deep by a slow deep soak once a week. During extreme heat period you may
need to water every 2 or 3 days depending on the conditions. Check first
 Check the soil to determine whether to water or not by sticking your finger in the soil. If it
is damp, do not water. If there is no moisture at all, then water
 Creating trenches to water in can help channel water to reach the roots
 Do NOT overhead water as this will encourage fungal or bacterial diseases
Feeding
With good soil preparation the plants should be fine to grow for
a while before applying the first lot of fertiliser.
 Hold back from fertilising until the first flowers appear, and then sprinkle sulphate of
potash (3 tablespoon and water in, repeat each month during growing season) around the
base of each plant to encourage the flowers set into fruit.
 We add 1 teaspoon of granule sulphate of potash and water it in at the 1st flowers and 1st
fruiting and continue as new flowers and fruit develop.
 Nitrogen is good for initial leaf growth, but if too much is used it will prevent good fruit set.
A fertiliser higher in potash commonly called ‘for fruiting and flowering’ such as Neutrog’s
“Gyganic” or “Sudden Impact for Roses” is better as it encourages flowering and fruiting.
Or use pelletised chicken manure or compost and sulphate of potash as described above.
 Over the life of the plant it should be fed at least 2 or 3 times to ensure adequate growth
and development. Look at the leaves of the plant, if they are yellowing or fading, or if the
tips are black or purple the plant needs fertilising. Place fertiliser in the trench. Plants that
are overfed are very lush green and soft and are susceptible to wind and insect damage.
 Plants lacking in calcium (often due to inadequate watering or too much nitrogen) are
susceptible to getting blossom end rot. Many of the liquid tomato foods (like Phostragen)
contain added calcium. The calcium needs to be added before planting – it’s too late if the
problem occurs.
 Consider liquid fertilising approximately once every three weeks. Fish emulsion/Seaweed
extracts gives them a good boost. Feed them early in the morning 7 am, not in the heat of
the day.
Growing tomatoes
Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 6 of 10
Img:http://forums.gardenweb.com/
discussions/1887577/container-tomatoes
Pruning
Reasons to prune are based on reducing fungal infections and directing
the growth of the plant so that it is easy to harvest and manage. To
reduce fungal infections increase the airflow by clearing away the leaves
from the base of the plant.
Heavy pruning is usually unnecessary, and can reduce growth and yields.
Be aware that too much pruning can lead to scalded fruit in hot spells,
so you may need to provide shade during very hot weather.
 Pruning from the soil up to about 12"" or 25 cm
so that no leaves are touching the ground will
avoid disease transmitting from the soil to the
plant
 The taller growing indeterminate types can be influenced in how they grow by pruning and
pinching them out. Do think about how you are going to grow these varieties and place
stakes and trellising supports early for their eventual shape. Pinch off the soft shoots (apart
from the tip shoots) that grow from the leaf junctions
 If you wanted to grow a tall plant up a pergola pole you may only want the one main leader
(the main leader is at the top of the plant). The second strongest leader is the next one,
below the first flower truss. The less leaders the slightly bigger your fruit may get
Side shoots
The side-shoot or suckers are new growths
between the stem and the shade leaf. Don’t
remove the shade leaves, as they protect the
plant. Pinch the side-shoot out if it is only a
couple of cms in size. If it is bigger, cut it off
with a scalpel type knife so as not too open up a
messy wound which could become a disease
entry point. Prune side shooting laterals and
lower shooting stems as the plants grow. This
will need to be done nearly daily once your
plants take off!
The determinate varieties (often busher, shorter growing varieties) don’t need any pinching – ever
as their growth structure is already determined.
Growing tomatoes
Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 7 of 10
Shelter in extreme heat
Tomatoes can become sunburnt when they are exposed in extreme heat
and it ruins the fruit. The burnt section appears as a white to greyish
sunken area on the skin of the fruits. To prevent this train the plant and
manage pests and diseases to ensure good foliage cover, and shade them in
hot weather. The late afternoon sun is most damaging. In extreme heat (38
C+), use 50/50 shade cloth. Make sure the shade cloth does not touch the
plant, nor can be blown into it on windy days as this will damage the leaves.
Also, ensure enough air flow and access.
Mulching
As the weather becomes hotter increasing apply a mulch of straw, pea straw around. According to
Peter Cundall, if you spread a thick mulch of straw enriched with rotted sheep or cow manure
around each plant, pressing it against the lower stems and watered in, it will not only keep the
soils moist and temperature lower, it also will stimulate new root growth into the decomposing
straw mix and result in bigger yields.
Harvesting
For the best flavour, ripe fruit is best so leave it on the bush until ready to use where possible.
Semi-ripe fruit can be harvested and will ripen (but not in the refrigerator).
Tomatoes are better NOT stored in the fridge.
Selecting different varieties to grow will extend your harvest season.
If you leave fruit on the bush and don’t water enough, heavy rain can cause the fruit to split.
Pest and disease control
Tomatoes are prone to suffering from a vast array of pest and disease. Early intervention is
important to prevent them from spreading. Continually check for pest and diseases and treat
accordingly. Good gardening hygiene measures to help prevent the spread of diseases.
We apply a regular dusting of tomato dust on the leaves to control caterpillars being careful not to dust the
flowers as this can kill bees. Also sprinkle a light dusting to the soil around the stem, prune the lower leaves
so none contact the soil to prevent fungal infections from the soil. Maintaining good airflow through the
plants, and never overhead water will also prevent fungal infections.
A diseased plant can still keep on producing if you cut off and dispose of the diseased leaves (put
them in the green bin, not your home compost). We remove diseased leaves weekly. Don’t
compost infected plants and fruit. Insects can be controlled by sticky traps
The list of pest and diseases is long and an internet search or consulting a few books from the
library will be informative. Common diseases and pest include:
Growing tomatoes
Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 8 of 10
Pest and disease control continued
Tomato russet mite.
Usually after the first period of hot weather it can wipe out previously
healthy plants. Leaves become dull brown and papery, dying from the
bottom up, which exposes fruit to sunburn.
They live on back of leaves are about .25mm, cream, and toredo shaped.
They love dry. dusty conditions s apply some mulch to the soil. Squirt off
with water in morning. If severe in early morning spray with Wettable sulphur rate of 1teaspoon spray per
litre onto front and back for leaves, or miticide or horticultural oil (which you can’t use in hot weather), or
insecticide soap spray such as natrasoap.
Nematode
Root nematode will cause plants wilt. To control drench soil with 1lt
molasses mixed in 4L of water over 3 m square. Look for swelling on the
roots of a dead plant to confirm.
Bacterial Wilt
Plants will wilt and there is no cure. To test slice s stem lengthwise if the
centre is white it is OK, if it’s brown then its infected.
Fungal problems
Prevent by practicing crop rotation, pruning to reduce air flow; water the base of the plant not the foliage.
Only water when plant needs as over watering increases fungal problems.
Blossom end rot
Fruit goes rotten on the bottom where flower was caused by lack of
calcium. Irregular watering can also cause- water as plants need and
prevent water stress.
Fruit Split
Caused by excessive water. If heavy rainfall is forecast you may wish to pick crop early.
Sunburn
White patches on the upper surfaces. Use shades and be careful not
to prune off all the leaves!
Aphids – tomato dust and spray
Growing tomatoes
Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 9 of 10
Growing tomatoes in pots
Pots
Choose pots with good drainage holes. They should have them on the side,
and on the bottom. Many terracotta pots have only one hole, flush to the
ground. These pots should be at least raised slightly, raising the hole off the
ground. The size of pot depends on the variety. Tall growers need large
tubs. Smaller sized tomatoes e.g. Floriana’s San Marzano can go in much
smaller pots (as small as 25cm diameter. If you go too small, the plant will
forever dry out.
Deep saucers are extremely handy, particularly if you go away for a few days. They also save
water. The trick is to let the plant use all the water, rather than continually topping them up,
which can give the plants ‘wet feet’ (lack of oxygen to roots, often resulting in poor growth).
Soils
Garden soil in pots can also cause ‘wet feet’. The fine granules in garden soil are so small, that
they compact down in the pot causing poor drainage. A good potting mix has both large and small
chunks of pine-bark, allowing more air around the roots. Like most things in life, you pay for what
you get – expect poor performance from a $3.00 potting mix and $10.00 plus for a top of the line
with all the extras. No other fertilisers or manures should need to be added initially.
Staking
Staking is something to think about now. The more support, the better. Some of the bush types,
like Tumbler or San Marzano, can simply be left to cascade over the pot. Taller growers will
appreciate wire frames, tee-pee like sticks, stakes, or by growing the pot near a fence or verandah
pole.
Plants in pots may need to be fed more often. Look at the leaves of the plant. If they are yellowing
or fading, or if the tips are black or purple, then the plants are hungry. They have that hard look.
They are lacking in nutrients and will gradually become weaker. An overfed plant is very lush green
and soft – this plant would be susceptible to wind and insect damage.
Watering
Check the soil regularly and don’t let it dry out. Don’t water a small amount, instead when the soil
is dry water enough so that the water drains through the bottom holes and then repeat to
saturate the soil. Tomatoes don’t like ’wet feet’ so we don’t recommend placing saucers under the
bottom of the pots as the lack of oxygen to roots, often resulting in poor growth.
Growing tomatoes
Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 10 of 10
Growing tomatoes from seed
If are collecting you own seed makes sure you are using non-hybrid seeds.
 Sow them in late July and keep seedlings in a warm spot, a window sill is good but move
them away during the cold nights. The ideal soil temperature is 25◦C
 Containers - jiffy pots, plastic punnets, paper cups, milk cartons (cut in half). All containers
must have drainage holes
 Fill containers with seed raising mix or good potting soil and cover seeds with coir, leaving
about 1cm from top for watering. Do NOT use regular potting mix or garden soil
 Plant 1-3 seeds in each pot
 Water with fine spray, cover with cut-off plastic bottles. No NOT over water
 When the young seedling emerge make sure they are in a bright light spot otherwise they
will be ‘leggy’
 When seedlings are about 3-5 cm high and have developed the second pair of leaves,
transplant to a pot. Add a pinch of sulphate of potash
 Plants need to be hardened up by putting the pots out into a similar position to where they
will be growing during the day, but taken back to their previous situation at night before
planting out into beds
 Mulch the bed well, keeping the mulch away from the stem
 Tomato plants do not like cigarette smoke so smokers need very clean hands before
touching plants
 Basil is a good companion plant for tomatoes
 Over-watering may cause weak seedling
Complied by
David Clayton, Shannan Davis, Lyn Hancock and Leslie Wightman
for Grow Your Own Food Workshops, August 2015
updated By Shannan Davis, October 2020
http://www.graphicgardener.com/gardenblog/2011/03/t
omatoes-seeds-and/",
"TOMATO PLANTING GUIDE
Kenya Highland Seed Company LTD has an outstanding portfolio of selected
determinate (Open Pollinated Varieties and Hybrid tomato varieties) that are
segmented to perform well across different regions. Our Indeterminate varieties
have the ability to perform well in the open field and under greenhouse units.
Nursery Establishment
o The plot should be well prepared by digging and mixing the soil with well
decomposed farmyard manure.
o Poultry manure is not advisable to be used at the nursery level due to high
nitrogen levels that inhibit proper seedling establishment.
o Drench the nursery bed with an insecticide and fungicide to prevent early
attacks from soil borne pests and any fungal disease.
o For ease of nursery management practices such as weeding and irrigation,
ensure the nursery bed is 1m wide and of a conventional length.
o Make shallow drills of 2cm - 3cm depth at a spacing of 10cm – 20cm apart.
Thinly sow the seeds and cover them lightly using soil or well decomposed
and fine farmyard manure.
o Irrigate the nursery bed frequently in the morning hours maintaining damp and
not wet conditions.
o Seedlings are ready for transplanting in 3-4weeks time. Allow some extra
days for seedlings to harden. This ensures reduced transplanting shock.
o Alternatively, the seeds can be sowed using seeding trays with appropriate
propagation media such as Peat moss and Cocopeat.
LAND PREPARATION
o Tomatoes require well – drained deep fertile soils with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 for
optimal growth. However, most of the soils in Kenya are nutrient poor which in
turn makes it difficult for farmers to achieve good yields.
o It is advisable for farmers to implement good soil management practices such
as crop rotation and fertilizer application as per the recommendations from a
soil test analysis.
TRANSPLANTING
o Tomato seedlings are ready for transplanting 3-4weeks from sowing. The
nursery bed should be watered for ease uprooting the seedlings and
transplanting in the evening hours to minimize risk of transplanting shock that
arises from excessive evapotranspiration leading to permanent wilting which in
turn makes the young seedlings dry up.
o Spacing depends on the variety grown and irrigation system used. For
determinate (bush varieties) 60cm by 60cm or 75cm by 75cm is recommended
and indeterminate varieties 60cm by 45cm.
o Furrow irrigation is an effective way for minimizing risks brought about by
fungal diseases such as early blight. On the other hand, drip irrigation is
efficient in water utilization.
o Overhead irrigation is not recommended to Solanaceous crops as this
encourages spread of fungal diseases due to leaf wetness in which the
pathogen spores landing on the host plant, an irrigation event allows the
infection process to begin. As the disease progresses, overhead irrigation can
splash the pathogens (spores) from infected plants to healthy plants leading to
further disease spread.
NUTRITIONAL REQUIREMENT
o During transplanting, it is important to have the planting holes mixed with well
decomposed manure and a basal fertilizer rich in Phosphorous for proper root
development such as D.A.P or N.P.K.
o Top dressing should be carried out 3weeks after transplanting with a basal
fertilizer rich in Nitrogen and a second application carried out 2-3weeks from
the first top-dress.
o At the onset of flowering, top dress using a balanced N.P.K and repeat after
harvesting to replenish nutrients lost through the harvesting process.
o Foliar fertilizers can be applied to substitute basal fertilizers applied especially
during periods of high stress such as hot periods that can hinder nutrient
uptake such as Calcium.
TOMATO SUPPORT SYSTEM
o Staking tomatoes should be done when the plants are still young to avoid
stem damage by breaking which can in turn act as a secondary entry point of
pathogens.
o It is not advisable to prune determinate (bush) varieties as this side shoots
contribute to the overall yield by holding more fruits.
o Indeterminate varieties are pruned and this involves removal of extra flowers,
side shoots and diseased leaves.
o Under good agronomic practices, determinate varieties can be harvested for a
period of up to 3months while indeterminate varieties can be harvested for a
period of over 6months. ",
" COMPREHENSIVE TOMATO FARMING GUIDE
2 | P a g e
Introduction
In the recent past demand for tomatoes in the region has increased tremendously. This demand can
only be met by increasing production area and yield. Better production methods, high-yielding and
disease-resistant varieties will play a key role keeping up with the market demand.
Growing requirements
Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, deep, uniform clay or silty loams. They are very sensitive to water
logged soils and prefer a soil pH of between 6.0 -7.5. They do best in temperatures of between 20°C
– 27°C. Tomato production can be adversely affected when the temperatures get below 10°C or
exceed 30°C, as fruit setting is affected. When choosing the field ensure tomatoes or a related crop
(Solanaceous family) has not been planted in the field for at least 2 years to avoid high diseases
presence in the soil.
Choosing a variety
The various tomato varieties that are available possess different benefits which include high yields,
resistance to diseases and long shelf-life. It is up to growers to choose those that will meet needs and
are also suited to climate where they are to be grown. No single variety will combine all the best
features.
Common Tomato varieties in Kenya
VARIETY COMPANY OPENDOOR/GREENHOUSE
Assila F1 Monsanto Hybrid Opendoor
Eden F1 Monsanto Hybrid Opendoor
Milele F1 Freshco Hybrid Opendoor
Africa Revolution F1 George Holland Hybrid Opendoor
Rambo F1 Royal seeds Hybrid Opendoor
Kilele F1 Syngenta Hybrid Opendoor
Shanty Improved Amiran Hybrid Opendoor
Star 9065 Stark Ayres Hybrid Opendoor
Commando F1 Continental seeds Hybrid Opendoor
Eva F1 Amiran Greenhouse
Steve F1 Continental seeds Greenhouse
Tylka F1 Syngenta Greenhouse
Anna F1 Monsanto Greenhouse
Corazon F1 Amiran Greenhouse
Bravo F1 Royal seeds Greenhouse
Chonto F1 Royal seeds Greenhouse
Prostar F1 Simlaw seeds Greenhouse
Consider the following when choosing a variety
Resistance to Diseases: Farmers need to select varieties that are resistant to diseases. Varieties that
are resistant to Verticillium wilt (Vd), Fusarium wilt (Fol), Fusarium Crown and Root Rot (Fol)
Nematodes (N), Alternaria solani (As) and Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV)
3 | P a g e
Shelf life: The variety must guarantee that the fruit will remain fresh through the chain and
especially during transportation.
Hybrids: Compared to open pollinated varieties (OPVs), hybrids produce higher yields, uniform
fruits and possess other preferred quality attributes such as disease resistance and pest tolerance. It is
better for the farmer to spend a little more money for Hybrid (F1) seeds but be assured of optimal
production.
Nursery Establishment
Because of the small nature of tomato seeds, the seedlings are first raised in the nursery then
transplanted into the main field. Though some farmers carry out direct planting, it is usually difficult
to maintain planting depth as well as moisture levels, leading to poor germination. In the nurseries
proper care of the seedling is made possible avoiding the harsh environmental conditions that the
seedlings might face if directly seeded. Seed beds also help the farmer ensure that only healthy and
strong seedlings are transplanted; translating to better and uniform plants and high production.
Another plus for nursery beds is that less seeds are used -80-100gms/acre for the Nursery, compared
to 250-500gms/acre for direct seeding.
Location: The nursery should be located in a flat area that is secure and accessible, to allow close
monitoring. It should be established near a source of clean usable water and on well-drained soils.
The area should be exposed to the sun, well-aerated, protected from strong winds and strategically
located to avoid exposure to pests.
Sowing lines: Seeds should be sown at a 1cm depth marked with a finger, with 10-15 cm spacing
between the sowing lines. Keep the nursery well irrigated and free of weeds; loosen soil to allow
water percolation.
Transplanting
Proper field preparation is essential for optimum performance. Recommended spacing for
transplanting is 60cm by 60cm. The seedlings are hardened before transplanting by reducing water
application and directly exposing them to sunlight 6-9 days before transplanting. This is done to
prepare them for the harsh environment they will face in the main field. A good seedling that is
ready for transplanting is usually in its fourth or sixth leaf stage (about 4 weeks old) and is vigorous
and stocky. Thoroughly water the seedlings about 12 hours before transplanting to the field.
Transplanting late in the evening is recommended to allow the seedling longer cooler hours to
increase chances of survival.
Irrigation
Tomatoes must be regularly watered especially during critical periods like flower-setting and growth
of the fruits. Watering should be reduced towards the end of a crop. Excess moisture on the leaves
can lead to diseases especially early blight.
Weed management
Depending on the type of weeds and growth stage of both the weeds and the crop, appropriate
control measures can be adopted. Manual weeding can be done on small fields but use of herbicides
can be considered in extensive farming.
4 | P a g e
Plant Nutrition
To optimize performance, soil nutrition amendment is necessary. It is a requirement that farmers do
a soil analysis which will serve as a base for coming up with a fertilizer program. Apply farmyard
manure at a rate of 8 tonnes per acre during land preparation to improve soil structure.
A guideline to fertilizer application will include:
• Basal application of Phosphorus during the early stages for root and shoot development. This can
be applied before transplanting.
• Top dressing with Nitrogen based fertilizers such as Urea and CAN for vegetative growth.
• During flowering and fruit formation use of compound fertilizers (NPK) is recommended. Plants
require the three primary nutrients; Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium at various levels; fertilizer
with high K (Potassium) in formulation will give best results.
• Weekly application of foliar feeds (can be mixed with pesticide sprays) can also foster better plant
development.
• Magnesium and Calcium fertilizers can be applied to ensure better fruit development but also when
symptoms of blossom end rot manifest.
Staking and pruning
This is done to reduce excess canopy as well as to get rid of old leaves which contribute to high
moisture accumulation leading to increased disease incidences. This can be done using sticks and
strings to give the plant an upright growth.
Advantages of staking
Increase in the percentage of marketable fruit, easier harvesting and reduced injury to both plants
and fruit in harvesting. A farmer may opt not to stake but it’s highly recommended
Management of pest and diseases
Major tomato pests include white flies, aphids, thrips, and bollworm. Whiteflies are known to
transmit Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus(TYLCV). While major tomato diseases comprise the
blights, wilts and rots. Pest and diseases remain the greatest challenge in Tomato production.
The general principles in pest and disease management include:
Disease prevention
Preventing problems is usually easier than curing them. So, here are ten strategies to help prevent
diseases and other problems:
1. Although many heirloom varieties have better flavor than newer varieties, they lack disease
resistance. Purchasing disease resistant cultivars can help, but keep in mind that disease resistance
does not mean immunity. Preventive strategies are still important.
2. Disinfect tools, tomato cages and stakes with a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water.
5 | P a g e
3. Rotate the planting location every three to five years.
4. Do not plant in cold soils. This weakens plants making them more susceptible to diseases and may
stunt them permanently.
5. Do not crowd tomatoes. Good air circulation around plants is vital in keeping the foliage dry and
preventing diseases.
6. Remove lower branches, leaving the stem bare up to the first set of flowers and then mulch (straw
is a good choice). Many fungal diseases are in the soil or in bits of plant material left over from
previous years. When it rains, fungal spores splash up onto the lower leaves, infecting them. The
next time it rains, the spores from the infected leaves splash up onto the next set leaves. Unchecked
the infection will spread all the way to the top of the plant.
7. Water in the morning to give the foliage time to dry out before nightfall.
8. Remove any diseased looking leaves as soon as possible.
9. If a spray program becomes necessary, use a fungicide (such as, chlorothalonil) alternated with a
copper based fungicide to help with bacterial diseases because even an expert can have difficulty
distinguishing between fungal diseases and bacterial diseases.
10. At the end of every growing season, remove as much of the plant as possible from the garden
and do not compost.
DISEASES
Late blight

Late blight is a very destructive and very infectious disease that affects tomato and potato (not sweet
potato). It is the same disease that led to the Irish Potato Famine in the 1840s. It is caused by the
fungal-like pathogen, Phytophthora infestans. It is prevalent during the rainy season and when there
is excess moisture or humidity
What are its symptoms?
Lesions develop on leaves and stems as dark, water-soaked spots. These spots enlarge until the entire
leaf or stem turns brown and dies. Dead leaves typically remain attached to stems. The undersides of
the lesions may be covered with a white fuzzy growth that contains the spores of the pathogen. On
the stems, late blight lesions appear brown to almost black. Infected tomato fruits develop shiny,
6 | P a g e
dark or olive-colored lesions which may cover large areas and in particular the upper half of the
fruit.
How is it different from other diseases with almost similar symptoms?
When diagnosing for late blight examine all parts of the affected plants thoroughly. The late blight
pathogen produces most of its spores at night and as a result it is more visible in the morning and
these calls for scouting early in the day for the disease. Generally Late blight can affect all parts of
the plant whereas some of the ‘imitators’ cannot. Below are some of the diseases that portray
symptoms most similar to LB and how they differ from the latter:
1. Gray mold - This is the disease most commonly confused for late blight because the pathogen
causes large leaf spots, stem lesions, and affects fruits. These symptoms are often associated with
dead plant tissue (flowers, leaves). The pathogen typically needs to become established on these
dead tissues before it can attack living plant tissue. Affected fruit are soft and are not brown. The
pathogen growth is fuzzier and gray to brownish, not white as with late blight.
2. Early Blight - Leaf, stem and fruit spots are all smaller than those for late blight and often have a
characteristic concentric ring pattern or target-shape appearance.
3. Septoria Leaf Spot - Leaf and stem spots are all much smaller in comparison to those for late
blight and often have a characteristic tan center. Fruits are not affected.
7 | P a g e
4. Buckeye Fruit Rot - Fruit turns brown with white spores forming when moist. Unlike late blight,
buckeye fruit rot is most likely on fruit on or near the soil where the pathogen can survive between
crops, the fruit stays firm and smooth (not rough) and leaves and stems are not affected. Causal
pathogens are closely related to late blight, but don’t travel far or fast because their spores move by
splashing water and soil, rather than air.
5. Drought Stress - When plants’ roots cannot deliver enough water to leaves, large sections of leaf
tissue can die. In contrast with late blight lesions, symptoms of drought stress always extend from
the leaf edge, they lack a border of wilted tissue, and there is no fuzzy pathogen growth. Also, no
symptoms develop on stems or fruit.
What can you do about it?
• Start with disease-free tomato seedlings.
• Scout daily in the morning hours for any symptoms on the crop.
• Rotate tomato fields with non-solanaceous crops. Crop rotation is for the early blight and Septoria
leaf spot diseases which are an annual problem, not late blight. The late blight organism requires
living tissue to survive; it does not survive in the soil or carry in tomato seed.
• Control tomato volunteer plants as well as solanaceous weeds such as hairy nightshade.
• When late blight is found in small, localized areas, promptly destroy all symptomatic plants plus a
border of healthy appearing plants to prevent disease spread.
• Apply late blight specific fungicides in affected fields and nearby fields on a regular basis until
tomato harvest is complete. Shorten spray interval when disease pressure is high or environmental
conditions remain favourable for the late blight pathogen (cool and wet).
• Alternate fungicide applications among different chemical classes; include a contact (protectant)
fungicide in each application (chlorothalonil, mancozeb, or copper). Addition of a protectant
fungicide enhances resistance management and fungicide effectiveness; e.g. copper oxychloride,
Mancozeb+cymoxanil or propineb+cymoxanil or Metalaxyl+Mancozeb
8 | P a g e
• Good fungicide coverage is necessary.
• Work in affected field last and clean equipment between fields.
• Disk under the field or kill with herbicide after harvest is complete.
Tomato yellow leaf curl
Tomato yellow leaf curl virus (TYLCV) is a viral
disease transmitted by whiteflies; it is one of the most
damaging diseases in tomatoes. TYLCV is the most
significant tomato virus in areas where whitefly is a
big problem. The disease incidence is higher
particularly when temperatures are high. Locally, it is
known as: Gathuri or ngumi
Symptoms
• Plants are severely stunted with shoots becoming erect
Leaf symptoms include;
• Small leaves which are cupped, thick and rubbery. Tops of infected plants may look like a head of
broccoli.
• Leaflets are reduced in size and puckered
• Leaflets that develop soon after infection curl downwards at the margins; leaves produced later curl
upwards, become distorted, and have prominent yellowing along margins and/or intervenal regions
• Flowers wither
• Plants will set very few fruit after infection occurs; when older tomato plants are infected, they
produce abnormal growth above the point of infection. Any fruit already on the plant ripens almost
normally, but flowers often drop or fail to set fruit. The appearance of the fruit is unaffected
Conditions for Disease Development
• The virus is not seed-borne. It is only transmitted by the whitefly, Bemisia tabaci
• The whitefly vector has a very wide host range but it usually does not cause symptoms in these
hosts. Most solanaceous plants such as tomato, eggplant, potato, tobacco, and pepper can be infected
with TYLCV but remain healthy in appearance. Common bean is also a host and will sometimes
display leaf curl symptoms when infected. Many common weeds are also host to the virus and may
or may not develop symptoms when infected.
• Hot and dry conditions favor the whitefly, and therefore aid the spread of TYLCV. Whitefly
populations decrease after heavy rain showers.
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Management
1. Use resistant varieties: Hybrid Tomato Assila from Monsanto is resistant to Tomato Yellow Leaf
Curl Virus (TYLCV)
2. Under stress, however, these resistant varieties can lose their protection and develop symptoms of
tomato yellow leaf curl. As such, it is important to keep plants healthy by proper irrigation and
fertilizer regimes and to keep them free of other pests and diseases.
3. Grow seedlings in an insect-proof net house or in a greenhouse, and maintain good control of
whiteflies in these structures in order to prevent early infection of seedlings by whitefly feeding. If
non insect-proof nets are used in seedling nurseries, then they should be sprayed with insecticides to
control entry of whitefly into the structures.
4. The whitefly vector favors younger plants. To reduce this effect, tomato plants should be about 30
days old at the time of transplanting.
5. Timing of transplanting can also be effective in avoiding high populations of whitefly and
therefore reducing or high populations of whitefly and therefore reducing or preventing TYLCV
infection. Separate plantings of tomatoes in time and space from plantings of crop hosts which are
good sources of whiteflies (i.e. cabbage, cucurbits, potato)
6. Avoid overlapping tomato crops that allow the vector to subsist and develop new populations.
Pulling out volunteer tomato and tobacco plants and weed control are also important in reducing
sources of virus inoculums.
7. Plant new tomato crops in isolated fields. If possible, plant a tall border crop, such as maize,
around the tomato crop.
8. Chemical control methods include the application of systemic insecticides as soil drenches or
regular sprays during the seedling stage to reduce the population of the whitefly vector. A second
application may be necessary to control adults that have emerged from the egg and nymph stage
since the application of the first spray. Rotation of insecticides may be necessary to prevent the
development of resistance in the vector. However, chemical control may not be effective in areas
where disease incidence is high
9. Symptomatic plants should immediately be carefully removed, bagged, and discarded to prevent
the spread of whiteflies on them that may be carrying the virus. Cover plant in plastic bag and tie at
the stem at soil line. Cut off the plant below the bag and allow bag with plant and whiteflies to
desiccate to death on the soil surface for 1-2 days prior to placing the plant in the trash. Do not cut
the plant off or pull it out of the garden and toss it on the compost! The goal is to remove the plant
reservoir of virus from the garden and to trap the existing virus-bearing whiteflies so they do not
disperse onto other tomatoes.
Buckeye fruit & root rot
Symptoms On fruit:
Brown spots appear on green and ripe fruit, often at the blossom end. The spots have bands of dark
and light brown rings. A white cottony fungal growth appears under moist conditions. Young green
10 | P a g e
fruit, when infected, usually become mummified. Fruit touching or near the soil are most likely to
become infected
On Root:
Phytophthora can cause a root and crown rot of tomato plants at all ages. Damping-off symptoms
occur on seedlings while infections of the roots and crowns of young plants cause rapid wilt. On
established plants, brown water-soaked lesions appear on roots, extending into the lower part of the
stem. Severely affected roots become necrotic and decayed. The leaves become bronze and later
dieback from the tip.
On Stem
The canker that develops is pale green to brown and may extend more than 15 cm. The canker
girdles the stem and causes wilting and death
Doses:
1. Thiophanate methyl
2. Carbendazim
Alternaria stem canker
It appears on stems, leaves, and fruit .Dark
brown to black cankers with concentric
zonation occur on stems near the soil line or
above ground. Canker enlarge girdle the stem,
and kills the plant. Dark brown to black areas
of dead tissues between leaf veins are caused
by a toxin produced by the fungus. Dark
brown sunken lesions with characteristic
concentric rings develop on green fruit
11 | P a g e
Doses:
1. Copper fungicides
2. Carbendazim
Gray mold
Foliage of plants from seedlings to mature plant
stage is affected. Brown to black specks appear
on both the young and older leaves. The lesions
expand slowly into 1- to 2-mm-diameter round
spots that remain brown or develop a gray center
surrounded by a yellow area.
Early blight (Alternaria solani)
In tomatoes, it causes stem cankers on seedlings and small irregular dark brown spots on the older
leaves leading in partial defoliation of the crop. The fungus survives on the crop debris. Infections
begin as small brown spots on older leaves that quickly enlarge. The lesions develop a ""bulls-eye""
pattern of concentric rings that can be seen

.Fusarium &verticillum wilt
12 | P a g e
Both of these fungal diseases are soil-born. Fusarium often causes yellowing on one side of the plant
or leaf. Yellowing begins with the older, bottom leaves, followed by wilting, browning, and
defoliation. Growth is typically stunted, and little or no fruit develops. Brown, vascular tissue can be
found when the infected stem is cut at its base. Infected plants often die before maturing.
Verticillium is less common, usually occurring late in the season when soils are cooler. It begins as a
v-shaped blotch on lower leaves, followed by browning veins and dead, chocolate brown blotches. It
spreads up the plant. Discoloration of the vascular tissue is limited to the bottom 12 inches of the
stem. Look for tomatoes with the resistance letters VF on the plant tag or seed packet, indicating
resistance to both verticillium and fusarium wilt.
Lookalikes: all the leaf spot diseases and “bottom-up” diseases
Bacterial cankers (Clavibacter michiganensis)
The symptoms of bacterial canker are brown leaf margins with a yellow border next to the inner
green leaf tissue, spreading between the veins (top image). It often affects only one side of a plant.
As plants wilt, yellowing leaves usually remain attached to the plant. Unlike the leaves, the petioles
remain green. The vascular system shows a yellowish brown discoloration (bottom image). This is a
serious infectious disease with no cure and no resistant varieties available. It will kill the plant and is
highly infectious, easily spreading to other plants. Infected plants should be removed from the
garden immediately and extensive measures implemented for disinfection.
Lookalikes: other foliar diseases, particularly fusarium wilt, viruses

Bacterial wilt (Pseudomonas solanacearum)
13 | P a g e
The disease causes wilting of tomatoes and potatoes. In tomatoes it is mainly seed borne.
Control: Control is mainly cultural as: - Strict crop rotation, Removal and burning infected plant
debris & Planting certified seed.
Damping off
Affected plants usually occur in patches in nursery beds or in low parts of sloped fields. In preemergence damping off, the seeds fail to emerge after sowing. They become soft, mushy, turn
brown, and decompose as a consequence of seed infection. In post-emergence damping-off, the
seedling emerges from the soil but dies shortly afterwards.
Septoria leaf spots
Septoria leaf spot usually appears on the lower leaves after the first fruit sets. Spots are circular,
about one-sixteenth to one-fourth inch in diameter with dark brown margins and tan to gray centers
with small black fruiting structures. Characteristically, there are many spots per leaf; they do not
14 | P a g e
look target-like. This disease spreads upwards from oldest to youngest growth. If leaf lesions are
numerous, the leaves turn slightly yellow, then brown, and then wither. Fruit infection is rare.
Lookalikes: bacterial leaf spot and speck (no tan centers); and other diseases that progress from the
bottom up
Powdery mildew
Leaf symptoms consist of yellow blotches or spots on the upper leaf surface. A white powdery
growth occurs on the underside of the leaves. This fungus penetrates within the leaf tissue. The older
colonies of the fungus may turn a dirty white color with age. The severely affected leaves turn
yellow, then brown, and later become shriveled. Generally, the lower leaves are affected first and the
disease gradually moves up the plant. Vines may become defoliated under severe infections, leading
to lower yields and possible sunburn damage to the fruit.
Bacterial spot and speck
These are two separate but very similar diseases. Symptoms of bacterial spot are small dark brown to
black circular spots, initially water-soaked, coalescing and becoming angular, sometimes with a
yellow halo.
Symptoms of bacterial speck are tiny, dark brown to black spots with a surrounding yellow halo.
Severity of both diseases is increased by wetness of fruit and foliage from sprinklers, rain, or heavy
dew. There are some tomato varieties with resistance to bacterial speck but very few with resistance
to bacterial spot.

15 | P a g e
Lookalikes: Septoria leaf spot (tan centers)
Anthracnose
DISORDERS
Blossom end rot – not a pathological disease, but mainly physiological
This is caused by calcium deficiency. The early
sign of the disease is a water soaked spot near the
blossom end of the fruit. The surface of the spot
becomes dark and leathery but no soft rot develops
unless bacteria or fungi invade the spot. Other
causes are; Too fast growth during the early stages
followed by sudden drought, excessive nitrogen
and infrequent irrigation.
 Gray wall sunscald concentric cracking
Concentric crack Catfacing
16 | P a g e
 Catface Radial cracking
FRUIT ROTS
Gray mold rot Rhizoctonia rot Rhizophus rot
Sour rot Pythium fruit rot
17 | P a g e
PESTS
Root knot nematodes
These are galls and swellings on the roots causing stunting of the plants and eventual death.
Control:
Good agricultural practices and chemical controls are used. Planting nematode free seedling through
application of Nematicides
Tobacco whitefly
Whiteflies are tiny, soft-bodied insects. They are not true flies. They secrete a white waxy substance
through special glands on their abdomen. The adults coat their bodies, particularly their wings, with
this wax, hence the name “whiteflies.” In their immature stages (nymphs) they also secrete wax in
various forms.
Damage caused by whiteflies
Like aphids, whiteflies have piercing-sucking mouthparts so the damage caused is very similar to
that of aphids. Damage to the crop is usually caused by larvae and adult insects that suck the leaftissue and young fruit secreting sticky undigested sap (honeydew) during feeding. It is documented
that about 2,000 nymphs can be found on a single leaf; each nymph is capable of producing 20 drops
of honey dew in an hour! Sooty moulds grow on the sugary secretions (Cladosporium spp.) hence
reducing the photosynthesis area of the leaves and resulting in stunted growth and poor quality
produce. Heavy infestations cause decline of plant vigor. Stunting, yellowing of foliage and
premature leaf drop are among the symptoms of injury.
Feeding by whiteflies can also cause deformed fruit and discoloration of your tomatoes.
18 | P a g e
Whitefly adults can also transmit several viruses from diseased to healthy plants including the
destructive Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV). If your plant gets infected with a virus, pull it
out.
Monitoring
Check the undersides of leaves regularly with a hand lens to monitor for both adults and nymphs.
Look for flying whiteflies regularly by knocking tomato leaves. This is an easy way to monitor adult
activity and abundance because they are easily disturbed and will flutter away. Monitoring your
populations, especially during hot dry weather will help you decide if or how to manage whitefly
problems. Generally, tomatoes (and other plants) can tolerate some whiteflies (up to 10-25 nymphs
per leaf) but population explosions (50 and up nymphs per leaf ) can quickly rob you of your
tomatoes
Whitefly Control
Because of the large number of eggs laid by an adult whitefly their population can multiply quickly
within a short period of time. Adults mate within 10 to 20 hours of hatching and live between two
and three weeks. Control is complicated by the nature of the eggs and the pupae which cannot be
killed by contact insecticides as they are covered by waxy substance.
To control whiteflies:
• Use varieties tolerant or resistant to viruses
• Remove Solanaceous plants and weeds which are in the vicinity of the tomato crop.
• Rogue diseased plants and destroy by burning. Ploughing infested crop at night and weed
management can help to bring the population below threshold levels.
• Use of oil sprays (DC-tron) helps discourage spread of whiteflies.
• Practice a good crop rotation program.
• A maize crop ‘guard row’ can be planted around the tomato field to reduce the ability of whiteflies
to reach the crop.
• Adult whiteflies can be controlled by overhead irrigation with soapy water (sodium based soaps)
• At larval stages system growth regulators such Applaud (buprofezin) can be used
• Biological control options.
• Perhaps the most common is the use of whiteflies natural predator Encarsia formosa. This parasitic
wasp attacks the whitefly by depositing an egg within the host body then, after about 10 days, the
parasitized host will turn brown as wasp pupation occurs. After another 10 days the emerging adult
wasp will appear and will, in turn, parasitize more whitefliesand Entomopathogenic fungi such as
Beuaveria bassiana and Verticillium lecanii.
• Effective insecticides for control of whiteflies include Pyrethroids and other contact
insecticides.Imidacloprid, Azadirachtin, Dimethoate, Lambda- Cyhalothrin, Deltamethrin, Acephate,
19 | P a g e
Pyrethrin and Thiacloprid among others. Farmers MUST adhere to the recommendations on the
product label and observe the Pre-Harvest Intervals as advised on the product label.
Red spider mites

The minute, spider like animals are visible by the naked eye and feed on sap from the underside of
the leaves. They cause speckling and tarnishing of the leaves turning yellowish to whitish. The pest
has wide host range including wild e.g. sodom apple and cultivated plants such as cassava, maize
American boll worm (Heliothes armigera)

The caterpillars bore into fruit and feed on the inner of the fruit releasing plenty of excreta which is
noticeable.
Tuta absoluta

20 | P a g e
Hornworm

Hornworms are the larval stage (caterpillars) of sphinx moths. They are called hornworms because
of the tell-tale horn or spike on their tail end (top image). These caterpillars have voracious appetites
and can consume entire leaves and small stems in a short time. Hornworm damage is obvious when
the infestation is moderate to heavy because of the large amount of defoliation. Search for the large
caterpillars and the large, black droppings on the leaves or ground beneath the plant.
Hornworms that are not feeding should be left on the tomato plant. They may have been infected
with Bt, an organic pesticide that only attacks caterpillars, or they may have been parasitized
(bottom image). The tiny white cocoons sprouting from the hornworm are the pupal cases of tiny
wasps that have eaten the hornworm from the inside out. If left alone, the adults will emerge and fly
off in search of other caterpillars to parasitize and kill.
SOME COMMON PEST AND DISEASE IN TOMATOES
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TABLE OF COMMON PESTS AND DISEASES AND THEIR MANAGEMENT
PEST/DISEASE
PEST
STAGE AFFECTED PART PRODUCTS TO USE
Whiteflies Adults Leaves
Synthetic pyrethroids,chlorpyrifos,dimethoate,thiocyclam
hydrogen oxalate
Larvae Leaves Abamectin,thiacloprid
Leafminer Adults Leaves
imidachloprid,acephate,dimethoate,thiacloprid,azadiracht
in
Larvae Leaves abamectin,spinosad,cyromazine
Tuta absoluta Adults leaves dimethoate,thiocyclam hydrogen oxalate
Larvae leaves,fruits
chlorantraniliprol,abamectin,emamectin
benzoate,flubendiamide
Spidermites All stages Leaves&stems synthetic pyrethroids,abamectin
Aphids Adults Stems,leaves&flowers lambdacyhalothrin,dimethoate
Thrips pupa,adults Flowers&leaves spinosad,lambdacyhalothrin
Caterpillars Larvae Leaves&fruits synthetic pyrethroids
Nematodes All stages Roots Azadirachtin,othoprophos,metamsodium
Late blight leaves&stems
Azoxystrobin,mancozeb,propineb,chlorothanonil,metalax
yl,copper oxychloride
Early blight chlorothalonil,azoxystrobin,mancozeb,metalaxyl
Bacterial wilt Copper oxychloride, copper oxide
Rootrot Fusarium chlorothalonil,metalaxyl
Pythium chlorothalonil,metalaxyl
Rhizoctonia chlorothalonil,metalaxyl
Powdery mildew
Tebuconazole,azoxystrobin,mancozeb,chlorothanonil,met
alaxyl
Downey mildew
Propineb,
chlorothalonil,metalaxyl,azoxystrobin,mancozeb
Bacterial speck Copper oxychloride, copper oxide
Viral infections uproot and control vector
22 | P a g e
Harvesting and handling tomatoes
Since tomatoes are perishable, proper after-harvest handling is very crucial for maintaining quality
and increasing shelf life.
Cleaning
Tomatoes should be washed in clean water to sufficiently remove dust and foreign material, then
wiped dry with a clean soft cloth. To eliminate the problems with disease build-up that normally
occur, wash water should not be reused. When washing ensure the wash water is several degrees
warmer than the pulp temperature of the tomatoes to avoid drawing water and disease organisms in
the fruit
Grading
During grading of fruits, damaged, rotten and cracked fruits should be removed. Only ",
,
"Tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum) can be grown
throughout the year. You can start harvesting
tomato fruits 8 - 9 weeks after transplanting.
One tomato plant can yield 4 - 6 kg (10 - 15 lbs.)
of fruits.
Tomato belongs to the Solanaceae family.
Other crops belonging to this family include
pepper and melongene.
Tomatoes are high in vitamins A and C and
lycopene.
VARIETIES
Some recommended varieties are:
Royal Pearl Royal Gold
Chandini Dianne
Hybrid 61 Akash
PREPARATION OF THE GROWING MEDIUM
Tomatoes can be planted both in the
ground and in containers. They require a
well-drained, fertile growing medium.
Land preparation
If planting in the ground, loosen the soil using a
garden fork to encourage drainage and aeration.
Remove all stumps and large stones. Make drains
to remove excess water from the garden if
needed.
Too much water in the soil will kill the plants
and encourages disease.
Container preparation
If planting in containers, use a container at least
45 cm (18 inches) by 40 cm (16 inches) and 30
cm (12 inches) deep.
Mixed cropping:
Tomato can be interplanted with other crops
in the home garden. Allow 0.5 m2 (5 feet2) per
tomato plant.
TRANSPLANTING
Transplant healthy seedlings late in the
afternoon (3:30 – 4:30 p.m.) when they are
3 - 4 weeks old.
Make a hole 10 cm (4 inches) in diameter and
10 cm (4 inches) deep.
Prepare the container and the growing
medium and transplant your seedlings as
described in the home gardening factsheet on
“Container Planting”.
SPACING
Planting tomato seedlings in the ground:
Space seedlings 30 cm (12 inches) within
rows and 60 to 90 cm (2 - 3 feet) between
rows.
How To Grow Tomato
HG/TT: Ag Ext 97:08
Figure 1: Aerial view of tomato
plot showing plant spacing
WATERING
Water tomato seedlings immediately after
transplanting and twice daily, in the absence
of rain.
Water plants in the morning and early
afternoon to prevent fungal problems.
A mature tomato plant needs 2 - 3 litres of
water daily.
Insufficient water will cause flower drop and
blossom end rot.
FERTILISING
Plants need nutrients in the correct
proportions for healthy growth and
production. Nutrients are usually provided
by the growing medium. Use fertilisers to
provide additional nutrients as needed.
You can use granular, or foliar fertilisers.
Method of application
If using a granular fertiliser, apply it at the
drip circle of the plant.
If using a foliar fertiliser, dissolve it in water
and apply to the plants’ leaves.
Timing of fertiliser application
One week after transplanting:
Use a complete NPK fertilizer high in
phosphorus e.g., 10:40:10 at the
manufacturer’s recommended rate.
Place one seedling in each planting hole. Pull
the mixture around it and press it lightly to
hold plant upright and firmly in position.
Agricultural limestone is required since most
soils in Trinidad are too acidic for tomato. Mix
1/2 cup of limestone and two handfuls of
cured (well-rotted) pen manure or compost
with the soil that was removed and refill the
hole with the mixture.
Make a hole just big enough to hold the
seedling’s root ball.
Figure 3: Planting Hole
Figure 2: Dimensions of Figure 5: Planted Seedling
‘planting hole’
Figure 4: Transplanting
Repeat once in the 3rd week after
transplanting.
When new leaves appear (2 - 3 weeks after
transplanting):
Use a complete NPK fertiliser high in
nitrogen e.g. 20:10:10 at the manufacturer’s
recommended rate.
When flowers form (4 - 6 weeks after
transplanting):
Use a complete NPK fertiliser high in
potassium (e.g. 12:12:17+2) according to
manufacturer’s recommendation to promote
flowering and fruit development.
A tomato plant can continue to flower and fruit
for 3 - 4 months.
PEST AND DISEASE CONTROL
If pests and diseases are left unchecked, they will
affect the health of plant and its yield. These
problems can be managed using a
combination of recommended cultural
practices, biological control and use of
safe pesticides.
This is known as Integrated Pest Management.
Use the information provided in the factsheet
on “Integrated Pest Management for Home
Gardeners” as a guide to controlling pests and
diseases in your garden.
CULTURAL PRACTICES
Prepare the growing medium as
recommended.
Put in enough drains to remove all excess
water from the garden.
As far as possible, plant varieties that are
resistant to diseases.
Practice crop rotation; Don’t plant tomato
or any member of the solanaceous family in
the same spot continuously. Members of this
family include tomato, melongene and
pepper. After a crop of tomato, plant a
crop from another family such as lettuce
or cabbage. Figure 7: Tying plants to stake
Figure 6: Individually Staked Tomato plants
Practice mixed cropping; Plant different
crops within the same plot. For example
intercrop tomatoes with lettuce.
Remember to leave adequate root room
for all plants.
Control weeds as soon as you see them
throughout the life of the crop.
Grow pungent plants such as marigold
and basil in the garden to keep away some
pests.
Stake tomato plants. Tomato stems are
weak and grow along the ground. Staking
keeps the plant upright and prevents the
soft fruits from lying on the dirt. Stakes
should be at least 2 metres (6 feet) tall.
Plants can be individually staked, or if
many are planted together they can be
staked in rows. The stakes should be put
in when preparing the growing medium at
transplanting.
BIOLOGICAL CONTROL
There are many beneficial insects that can
help control pests and diseases that affect
tomato. Encouraging helpful insects such as
ladybird beetles, spiders and dragonflies can
help to reduce pest problems in the garden.
PEST CONTROL USING NATURAL
PESTICIDES
Natural pesticides are recommended for use
in the home garden. Use the information
provided in the factsheet “Making Natural
Pesticides Using Local Materials” as a guide.
When staking in rows, insert the stakes next to
every fourth plant. Tie the twine from stake to
stake on each side, enclosing the plants.
Continue tying the plant as it grows.
Published and printed by
the Extension Training and Information Services Division
Ministry of Food Production
Trinidad and Tobago
July 2005
Revised July 2009
Revised December 2012
“All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, transmitted in any
form, or by any means reproduced without permission in writing, of the Ministry of Food Production.”
Technical content edited by - Roshni Sita Ramsingh
Figure 9: Harvesting fruit
HARVESTING
Harvest fruits when they are mature or ripe.
Tomato fruits are ready for harvest when they
have changed colour from green to streaks of
red, all grooves are filled and they have lost
their shine.
Do not harvest fruits when they are wet or
when it is raining because this can lead to
rotting.
Harvest the fruit with the stem attached to it.
This will encourage continued flowering.
Hold the fruit and snap upwards; mature
tomatoes will easily separate from the main
stem of the plant.
Figure 8: Staking plants in row
Twine
Stake",
" Crop Production Guide
Asparagus
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable crop adapted to
temperate climates such as Newfoundland and Labrador.
The plant requires a rest period, satisfied in Canada
by winter dormancy, and is dioecious, meaning that it
produces male or female sexual parts within their flowers.
In this way plants can be described as male or female.
Growth Requirements
Asparagus responds well to a deep, well-draining soil
with a light texture profile (sandy loam). Ideally, the soil
should contain at least three per cent organic matter and
have a pH between 6.0-6.8. Asparagus will not tolerate
standing water at the root system so soil needs to drain
properly and be free of hard-pans. The soil should
also be free of stone and gravel, as these can injure
growing stems making them unmarketable. Asparagus
will develop a large, proficient root system that can
reach 1.5 metres deep at maturity. New plantings
should not be placed in fields that have been previously
used for asparagus cultivation - two soil born Fusarium
diseases can cause serious production problems and as
a perennial crop there is no opportunity for crop rotation
in an established asparagus stand.
Cultivars
There are no cultivar recommendations for asparagus
in Newfoundland and Labrador. The University of
Guelph cultivar “Millennium” and U.S. developed
Introduction
1
“Jersey Giant” are the most widely grown cultivars
in Ontario and have given superior yields to other
cultivars when tested in other parts of Canada. Both
cultivars are male-hybrid. Both “Millennium” and
“Jersey Giant” are male-hybrid genotypes, in most
commercial settings all-male hybrid seed is preferred,
to mixed seed as male plants are known produce 20-
25 per cent greater yields than females
Nutritional Value
Asparagus stems are a good source of vitamins A and C,
and potassium. Asparagus is also low in calories with 90g
of spear providing 18 kcals.
Crop Establishment
Seed Germination:
Asparagus seed requires a minimum of 10˚C to
germinate, however germination success and seedling
development are enhanced at temperatures between
15-30˚C. The optimum temperature for asparagus seed
germination is 24˚C. Germination may also be enhanced
by soaking seedlings in water at 32˚C for three to four
days prior to sowing. Soil should be at least 15˚C when
sowing asparagus seed.
Due to Newfoundland and Labrador’s short growing
season it may be advantageous to plant greenhouse
grown seedlings or nursery grown asparagus crowns
as opposed to direct seeding of asparagus. Asparagus
transplants can be started in a greenhouse in middle to
late February and transplanted into the field after eight
to 12 weeks or when soil has reached an adequate
temperature (15˚C). Asparagus crowns are started
in nursery beds and left in the ground for one year;
plants are dug up in the spring and then replanted
as soon as possible. Selection of the best crowns is
essential. Damaged, diseased or under sized (less than
25g) crowns should be discarded. Selection of the best
asparagus crowns is essential, all damaged, diseased or
under sized (less than 25g) crowns should be discarded,
this may be up to 40 per cent of the crowns in the
nursery beds. Crowns should be planted at a depth of
15-20 cm.
 Crop Production Guide: Asparagus
2
Seeding/Planting:
Permanent field spacing for plants should be at a
distance of 1.25-1.75 metres between rows and a
spacing of 30-45 cm between plants within the row.
Asparagus seed should be planted at a depth of
between 2.5-4 cm. Crowns should be placed in a 15-
20 cm deep furrow and covered with 5 cm of soil. Soil
should continue to be added through the season, usually
during cultivation to control weeds.
Crop Management
The first two to three years of establishment are
critical for the productivity and yield of the mature
asparagus stand. During these first couple years young
asparagus plantings can suffer from weed competition,
inadequate soil moisture and/or soil fertility. It is also
highly detrimental to over harvest plants during the
first years of establishment. After the last harvest of
the season the asparagus bed should be shallowly
cultivated to control weeds and incorporate nitrogen
fertilizer. Care must be taken to not damage the root
system of the asparagus during these activities. The
remaining stems will begin to unfurl their frond-like
leaves which will photosynthesize and capture energy
to recover from the harvest period and store reserves
for winter dormancy and regrowth in the spring. While
stems are still green they are still connected to the root
system of the plant and should not be removed. When
the stems turn yellow they can be removed, however
the stems tend to catch snow which can help insulate
the plant during winter. The stems can be cut and
incorporated in the spring before the plant breaks out
of dormancy. Incorporation of dead stem tissue can
add 10 tonnes of organic matter per hectare.

Nutrition
All soil fertility recommendation begin with soil
analysis. Test soil before any agricultural activities.
Recommendations given here refer to results from a soil
test using a Mehlich-3 extraction solution.
Nitrogen
Yearly nitrogen requirement for mature asparagus stand
are approximately 110 kg/ha. Generally for mature
stands half is applied prior to harvest and then the
remainder is applied after last harvest. For new plantings
all nitrogen is applied before planting. Asparagus
responds well to manure application. Production of
asparagus crowns require approximately one half the
nitrogen needed for regular production.

Phosphorus
A mature asparagus stand is unlikely to respond to
increases in phosphorus when soil levels are 125 mg/L
or greater. As phosphorus is difficult to incorporate into
established stands, the optimum time to apply nutrient is at
planting. Up to 135 kg/ha of phosphorus should be applied
within the trench before planting crowns or transplants.
Potassium
Although asparagus has a relatively high potassium
requirement, the plant is unlikely to respond to
applications of potassium when soil levels are 250 mg/L
or greater.
Micronutrients
Asparagus has a high boron requirement and the soils
of Newfoundland and Labrador can naturally have
suboptimum levels. Asparagus is unlikely to respond to
Boron application when soil test levels of 1.5 mg/L or
above. Soil nutrient analysis should be consulted before
the application of micronutrients.
Application
For mature asparagus stands fertilizer applications are
usually broadcast and incorporated using a light disking.
For new plantings, fertilizer, especially phosphorous,
should be banded within the row.
Climatic Limitations
Late spring frost can be damaging to asparagus plants.
Generally frost will damage the first flush of stems
produced by the plant in the spring, this is unfortunate as
this first flush of stems tend to be the largest in terms of
both size of the stem and the number of stems. Losses
during this early period can cause major reductions in
overall yield for the growing season. In addition stems
damaged by frost must be removed from the field.
Asparagus beds can be protected from frost by covering
the beds with black plastic; however the practicality of
this activity will depend on how large the asparagus field
is. Early fall frost can also cause damage, however this is
generally minor in comparison to spring frost issues.
 Crop Production Guide: Asparagus
3
Wind damage can cause a hooking of the stem, counter
intuitively, into the wind. This is caused by reduced
growth of the wind exposed tissues. Hooking of the
stem does not change the flavor quality of asparagus
and hooked stems can still be sold, although sometimes
as a lower grade.
Pest and Disease
Disease: Asparagus rust (Puccinia asparagi)
Characteristics: Red/orange lesion develops on
leaves and stems. This disease can cause premature
defoliation of leaves which results in reduced yields in
subsequent years.
Control: Monitor for the appearance of the disease so
fungicides can be applied before significant buildup of
infection and spore production. All infected material
should be removed from the field or incorporated into
the soil. A trifloxystrobin based fungicide is registered for
rust control in asparagus production in Canada.
Disease: Fusarium crown and root rot (Fusarium
oxysporum f.sp. asparagi) and (Fusarium moniliforme)
Characteristics: Rotted and hollow root system (both
feeder and storage roots), can be accompanied by a red/
brown discoloration. Above ground parts can appear
stunted and/or wilted. F. oxysporum is wide spread in
Canada and can be found in most soils. F. moniliforme is
capable of infecting both asparagus and corn.
Control: It is imperative that new asparagus planting be
placed in fields that have not been used for asparagus or
corn production within the last five years. Avoid damage
to the asparagus roots during cultivation. Fungicides are
generally ineffective against this disease; however soil
fumigation prior to planting may reduce the population
of Fusarium in the soil.
Disease: Botrytis blight (Botrytis cinerea)
Characteristics: Causes tan lesions with brownish
borders, in more advanced cases fuzzy gray spores will
be visible. Disease can completely kill newly emerging
stems, and is most problematic when high moisture is
present either during wet weather or when air is unable
to move in the canopy.
Control: Botrytis is a common invader of wounded or
weakened plant tissues and is also prevalent in storage.
Reducing injuries to plants will reduce infection point.
Remove and destroy infected tissues to reduce further
spread. Trifloxystrobin registered for asparagus rust
control will provide some control of Botrytis.
Insects: Common asparagus beetle (Crioceris
asparagi) and spotted asparagus beetle (Crioceris
duodecimpunctata)
Characteristics: The most significant damage caused
by these two beetles is feeding damage on stems and
leaves of asparagus. Defoliation of stems can occur in
serious cases, which can cause impacts on the following
years yield. Larvae of the spotted asparagus beetle feed
within berries, which will decrease seed yield.
 Crop Production Guide: Asparagus
4
gov.nl.ca
Control: The beetles can be trapped by allowing a row
or small group of asparagus to produce leaves early in
the spring which will attract the mobile adult beetles.
When a significant population has infested these plants
they can be sprayed. There are currently seven different
products registered to control beetles in asparagus
production in Canada.
Harvest and Handling:
Asparagus should not be harvested for the first two
years. This gives the plant an establishment period to
develop an adequate root system and enough storage
reserves to tolerate being harvested in the subsequent
years. Stems of asparagus can be harvested from plants
after two to three years of establishment, depending on
the planting material. No data is available on asparagus
yields in the province of Newfoundland and Labrador. In
Ontario, yield from three-year-old plants can reach
1000kg/ha; four-year-old plants can yield 2000kg/
ha; yields as high as 3000kg/ha can be produced from
mature plants in years five to 15.

During the first harvest year (year three) stems should
only be harvested for one to two weeks. During year
four stems should only be harvested at three to four
weeks. At year five and on through maturity of the
asparagus stand stems can be harvested for up to seven
weeks. Harvest should stop when size/diameter of the
stem starts to diminish, as this is a sign that the plant is
being over harvested and could have an adverse effect
on the following year’s crop. As a rule of thumb harvest
should stop when ¾ of the stems have diameters smaller
than one cm.
Storage:
Asparagus stems should be moved to cold storage as
soon as possible after the harvest because the quality
of the stems will decline rapidly. Store the stems at 2˚C
and with 95 per cent relative humidity. Asparagus can be
held in storage for between two to four weeks; however
quality can decline rapidly if temperature increase or
humidity decreases.
 Crop Production Guide: Asparagus
For more info please contact:
Crop Development Officer – West
James Dawson Ph.D
709.637.2078
jamesdawson@gov.nl.ca
Crop Development Officer – East
Jane White B.Sc
709.729.6867
janewhite@gov.nl.ca
5",
"Easy Gardening
Joseph Masabni, Assistant Professor and Extension Horticulturist, The Texas A&M University System
asparagus • asparagus • asparagus • aspar
-1-
Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a
highly desirable, early-spring vegetable best suited to the cooler areas
of North and West Texas. It can also be
grown in areas such as Dallas and Houston. It produces poorly in areas with mild
winters and extremely long, hot summers.
With proper care and in a suitable climate,
an asparagus crown can last 15 to 25 years.
Asparagus is good source of vitamin
A and C and minerals, and it tastes better
when homegrown than when shipped into
Texas from other areas.
Asparagus is dioecious, meaning that
it has separate male and female plants.
Grown for its stems or spears, asparagus
yields 8 to 10 pounds or more per 100
square feet of bed if tended well. For most
home gardeners, a 20-foot row or 100
square feet of bed is adequate for a family of four. That’s equivalent to 20 planted
crowns or 10 pounds of harvested asparagus per season.
Site selection
Because asparagus remains in the
same place several years, it is important
to select the right spot and prepare the
seedbed well. Asparagus does best in full
sunlight and deep, well-drained, sandy or
light-textured soils. Asparagus plants make
a good border around the edge of a garden
or along a fence.
Soil preparation
Before planting, make sure that the
soil is free of trash, soil insects, and perennial weeds such as johnsongrass or bermudagrass. Avoid sites where yellow nutsedge
grows, as this indicates poor drainage,
which is unsuitable for asparagus production.
In late fall, spread a 3-inch layer of
organic matter such as manure, rotted
sawdust, or compost over the beds. Till or
spade them to a depth of 10 to 12 inches,
EHT-066
5/14
nursery, garden center, or seed catalog.
After the asparagus beds are tilled,
mark rows 5 feet apart. Dig a furrow 4
inches wide and 4 to 12 inches deep. Separate the crowns by size, and plant those of
similar size together for best uniformity in
spear size at harvest.
Spread super phosphate fertilizer (0-
46-0) as a band in the furrow at a rate of
2.0 pounds per 1,000 square feet or 0.75
ounce per 20-foot row. Place the crowns 12
to 14 inches apart in the furrow. Planting
too closely can cause small spears. Wider
planting results in larger spears but lower
total yield. In loose soils, plant the crowns
6 to 12 inches deep; in heavier soils, plant
them 4 to 6 inches deep (Fig. 1). Cover the
furrow with 1 inch of compost topped by 2
to 3 inches of soil. Firm the soil around the
roots.
Over the season, fill the furrows gradually as the shoots grow. This covers small
weeds, and they die from lack of light.
By the end of the first season, the furrow
should reach its normal level (Fig. 1).
Control weeds, but do not injure the
crowns. If the crowns are planted deeply,
you can cultivate the bed with garden tools
or tiller (do not till too deep) without damaging the crowns.
An alternative planting method is to
plant the crowns at the suggested depth
and turn the soil to cover all organic matter.
Asparagus grows well in high-pH soils
and poorly if the soil pH is below 6.0. Test
the soil before planting the beds and add
lime if needed to adjust the pH to 6.5 to
7.5.
Varieties
The hybrid asparagus cultivars ‘Martha Washington’, ‘UC 157’, ‘Jersey Giant’,
and ‘Mary Washington’ produce better
than the standard cultivars. Male asparagus cultivars such as Jersey types (‘Jersey
Giant’, ‘Jersey Knight’, and ‘Jersey Supreme’) are more productive and resist
disease better than the female cultivars
(‘Washington’ types). Also, female cultivars are less vigorous and produce many
red, berrylike fruits that become volunteer
weeds in the garden.
A purple asparagus cultivar (‘Purple
Passion’) with green flesh and large spears
is available for home gardens.
Planting
Asparagus is grown from 1- or 2-yearold crowns planted in January or February,
or as soon as the ground can be worked.
Crowns can also be grown from seeds
planted in flats or peat cups. It takes at
least a year to
grow a good
crown. To
shorten the
period from
planting to
harvest, buy
and plant
healthy, vigorous, 1- or
2-year-old
crowns from a
Figure 1. (a) Planting crown; (b) immediately after planting; (c) several weeks after
planting; (d) at the end of the season
-2-
 (a) (b) (c) (d)
4-12” 2-3”
Care during the season
Asparagus competes poorly with
weeds. For asparagus to grow vigorously,
weeds must be controlled in the first 1 to
2 years of its establishment. To suppress
weeds, spread a 4- to 6-inch-thick layer of
organic mulch, such as hay, stray, compost, wood chips, or grass clippings.
Asparagus beds require little care after
the first 2 years of establishment. Keep
weeds pulled or hoed from the beds. To
avoid damaging the spears, control weeds
early before the spears emerge. Till the soil
when fertilizer is applied early in the season before the spears begin growing (Fig.
2).
At the end of the harvest season, control weeds by raking lightly or mulching.
Apply fertilizer and till lightly 1 to 2 inches
deep to kill weeds. Cover the bed with a
3-inch layer of clean straw, compost, or
other mulch material. Water it thoroughly,
and allow the asparagus to grow the rest of
the year. This helps ensure a good harvest
the next year (Fig. 3).
After the first hard frost or freeze of
fall, cut off the fern tops at ground level
and mulch the bed with manure. Burn or
compost the fern tops to eliminate sources
of insect eggs or disease reinfestation. In
southern areas, the fern may not be killed
-3-
and immediately fill in the furrow with
soil to its original level. Using this method,
you do not need to gradually cover the
crowns with soil, as long as the soil is not
compacted over the newly planted crowns.
It takes 2 to 3 years from the time the
crown is planted until the bed is in full
production. When conditions are favorable, buds arise from the crown and develop into edible spears. If not harvested,
the spears will develop into fernlike stalks.
From these stalks, the mature plant manufactures food and stores it in the underground crown. This reserve supplies the
energy necessary to produce spears the following year.
Fertilizing
Before planting a new asparagus bed,
broadcast and spade in or incorporate ¼
pound of nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium per 20 feet of row or as directed by a
soil test report.
For established beds, scatter 2 pounds
of 10-20-10 fertilizer (or its equivalent) per
20 feet of row before growth begins in the
spring, late January, or early February in
most areas of Texas.
After the last harvest, apply an additional 1 to 2 pounds per 20 feet of row. If
available, use a nitrogen fertilizer such as
21-0-0 at this time. Always water the fertilizer into the soil.
Watering
Asparagus plants need frequent, deep
watering. Water the beds thoroughly, and
allow the top 1 inch of soil to dry before
watering again. The time varies from 3 to 5
days, depending on soil type and temperature. In sandy soils, asparagus roots can
reach 10 feet deep if adequate soil moisture
is available.
Figure 2. Till the soil early in the season before the
spears emerge.
Growing
the developing buds in the crown, never
cut the spear too deep. However, this
method is not recommended because the
knife may spread diseases from crown to
crown.
Stop harvesting when the spear diameter becomes less than 3
⁄8 inch or when the
spear heads open up with rising temperatures.
Some gardeners prefer white asparagus. This is grown by using mounds of soil
or mulch to deprive the spears of light.
White asparagus has a milder flavor and
is preferred in gourmet cuisine. When the
asparagus head barely emerges through the
mulch mound, use a knife to cut the spears
at the desired height.
-4-
by a freeze, so
it should be
removed in
late November
when the ferns
turn yellow.
Any spears that
sprout may be
removed and
eaten.
A post emergent herbicide such as
glyphosate could be used against weeds
before asparagus growth begins in early
spring.
Harvesting
Harvest asparagus spears from established beds for about 8 weeks, depending
on the area. Do not harvest during the first
2 years after planting. This waiting period
enables the underground crown to grow
and store enough reserves for a strong harvest for many years to come.
Harvest the spears when they are 4 to
10 inches long. To prevent the spears from
becoming fibrous, harvest at least every
other day. The fibrous condition is caused
by overmaturity or inadequate fertility.
Spears with loose or opened heads are too
mature.
To harvest, snap off the spears by
hand at ground level. Never snap asparagus spears above the ground or allow a
stub to remain.
An alternative method is to use a
knife to cut the spears 1 to 2 inches below
the soil level (Fig. 4). To avoid damage to Figure 4. Some asparagus gardeners harvest by
cutting the spears 1 to 2 inches below the ground
level.
Ground
level
Figure 3. (a) Remove mulch, fertilize and till; (b) harvest; (c) after last harvest, fertilize
and mulch; (d) remove tops and mulch with manure.
Late Jan./early Mar. Late Feb./early May April/May After first freeze
(a) (b) (c) (d)
10-20-10 21-0-0
Cut tops
to ground
level
prevent the establishment of many asparagus diseases. Common diseases that attack
asparagus are crown rot and rusts; they can
be controlled with organic chemicals such
as sulfur or potassium phosphite.
Serving
After harvest, asparagus loses
quality very rapidly––the sugar
content declines and the amount
of fibrous material increases. Use
spears with compact heads; those
with loose heads are fibrous and
do not keep well.
Asparagus can be stored up
to 3 weeks in plastic bags in the
refrigerator. For longer storage,
blanch the asparagus spears 3 to
5 minutes, package, and freeze
them.
For information on preserving and
serving asparagus, contact the county Extension agent.
-5-
White asparagus is grown by covering an asparagus row with black plastic
supported by wire hoops. The covering
is opened on one side for harvest, then
placed into position again immediately
after harvest. The plastic
tunnel structure is
removed when the harvest season is over. Culture and pest control
of white asparagus are
similar to that of green
asparagus.
Insects
The most significant
pest of asparagus is the
asparagus beetle. Left unchecked, this beetle can
greatly damage asparagus
in a short period. The beetle overwinters
(spends the winter) in crop residue or trash
in the garden or in the border.
If you see beetles feeding on asparagus, remove them by hand or spray them
with Surround (organic insecticide) or
Sevin.
Diseases
If you select a good site with proper
drainage and pH, you can reduce if not
Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service
AgriLifeExtension.tamu.edu
More Extension publications can be found at AgriLifeBookstore.org
Educational programs of the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard
to race, color, sex, religion, national origin, age, disability, genetic information, or veteran status.
 The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating.
Revision
Acknowledgments
This publication was revised from earlier versions written
by Jerry Parsons, Professor and Extension Horticulturist, and
Sam Cotner, Professor Emeritus and Extension Horticulturist.",
"Agriculture and Natural Resources
FSA6002


Craig
R.
Andersen


Associate
Professor


Arkansas
Is


Our
Campus


Visit
our
web
site
at:

https://www.uaex.uada.edu
Asparagus

Home
Gardening
Series

Environment
Light –	sunny	
Soil –	well­drained,	deep	
Fertility –	medium­rich	
pH –	6.0	to	7.0	
Temperature –	cool	
Moisture –	average	
Culture
Planting –	one­year­old	crowns,	
spring	
Spacing –	18	x	60	inches	
Hardiness –	hardy	perennial	
Fertilizer –	medium­rich,	summer	
Asparagus – Asparagus
officinalis altilis
Asparagus	is	a	native	of	
temperate	Europe	and	western	Asia	
and	still	grows	in	a	wild	state	in	
saline	areas.	It	has	been	known	to	
and	prized	by	epicures	since	Roman	
times.	It	is	widely	grown	and	used	
throughout	Europe	and	was	introduced	early	into	the	United	States.	
Asparagus	is	a	perennial	
vegetable	that	produces	spears	each	
year	without	replanting.	A	wellplanned	row	or	bed	can	last	for	20	to	
30	years.	Therefore,	plant	asparagus	
at	the	side	or	end	of	the	garden	
where	it	is	not	disturbed	by	dayto­day	gardening	activities.	
Asparagus	is	one	of	the	earliest	
vegetables	harvested	in	the	spring.	
Cultural Practices
Planting Time
Asparagus	crowns	can	be	
planted	as	early	as	the	ground	can	
be	worked	in	the	spring	and	as	
late	as	June	1.	Use	one­year­old	
crowns	or	plants	because	it	takes	
one	to	two	years	longer	to	produce	
asparagus	from	seed.	Purchase	the	
plants	from	a	garden	store,	
nursery	or	through	a	seed	catalog.	
The	young	plants	have	compact	
buds	in	the	center	(crown)	with	
dangling,	pencil­sized	storage	
University
of
Arkansas,
United
States
Department
of
Agriculture,
and
County
Governments
Cooperating


Cultivars
Cultivar
Days to
Maturity
Plants/
100 Ft
of Row
Disease Resistance
or Tolerance Remarks
Mary Washington Perennial 50 crowns Rust Good quality.
UC157-F2 Perennial 50 crowns Rust, fusarium rot Good quality and yield.
Jersey Knight Perennial 50 crowns Rust, fusarium rot All male hybrids, large uniform spears.
Jersey Gem Perennial 50 crowns Fusarium, cercospora All male hybrids, large spears, purple bracts.
Jersey Giant Perennial 50 crowns Rust, fusarium rot All male hybrid.
Purple Passion Perennial 50 crowns Large purple spears turn green when cooked.
roots. Thick, firm storage roots indicate a
healthy crown.
Spacing and Depth of Planting
Place the plants in a trench 12 to 18 inches wide
and 9 to 12 inches deep. Space the crowns 18 to 24
inches apart. Spread the roots out uniformly with the
crowns in an upright, centered position. Cover the
crowns with 2 inches of soil. Gradually fill the remaining portion of the trench during the first summer.
Asparagus tends to “RISE” as the plants mature;
during the winter, many gardeners apply an additional 1 or 2 inches of soil over the rows in later years.
Care
As asparagus plants grow, they produce a mat of
roots horizontally rather than vertically. In the first
year, the top growth is spindly. As the plants become
older, the stems get larger in diameter.
Asparagus plants are dioecious (either male or
female). The male plant develops more spears or
stems than the female plant, but the stems are
smaller in diameter. Gardeners plant both the male
and female plants in an approximate ratio of 1:1.
Yields are not appreciably different between the
sexes. After the first year, small red berries form on
the female plants in late summer.
Fertilize asparagus the same way as the rest of
the garden during the first three years. In spring,
apply a complete fertilizer such as 13-13-13 at the
rate of 3 to 4 pounds per 100 feet of row and
incorporate with cultivation. Starting the fourth year
and after, apply the same amount of fertilizer but
delay application until after harvest in June or July.
Weeds can be a major problem for asparagus.
They compete with developing spears and decrease
yield and quality. Start frequent, light cultivation in
the spring in both young plantings and patches that
are being harvested.
Harvesting
Harvest asparagus in the second year after
planting crowns, but do not harvest for more than
one month the first time. When the diameter of the
spears is less than the size of a pencil, cease harvesting. The plant is still expanding its feeder roots and
storage root system, and excessive removal of spears
weakens the plant. Starting the fourth year, spears
may be harvested from April into June.
Harvest spears that are 5 to 8 inches in length by
cutting or snapping. To cut a spear, run a knife under
the ground where the spear is emerging. Since the
spear will be cut below the point of fiber development,
snapping the stem is necessary. Cutting may damage
some spear tips that have not yet emerged from the
ground. To snap a spear, bend it from the top toward
the ground. The spear breaks at the point where it is
free of fiber.
Asparagus deteriorates rapidly after harvest.
If it is not eaten immediately, it should be processed
or refrigerated.
Common Problems
Asparagus beetles are common in home plantings.
They may be controlled by using a suggested
insecticide or by hand picking.
disease – rust, fusarium crown rot
insects – asparagus beetles, cutworms
cultural – weak, spindly plants and/or too few
spears caused by harvesting the first year after
planting or too heavy a harvest in later years; crown
rot or poor production from inadequately prepared,
heavy soil
Harvesting and Storage
days to maturity – 2 to 3 years
harvest – third-year spears; snap off just under
soil surface when 6 to 8 inches tall, before tips begin
to separate; use or refrigerate immediately
approximate yields (per 10 feet of row) – 3 to
4 pounds per year
amount to raise per person – 6 pounds
storage – process or refrigerate immediately in
plastic bags
preservation – can or freeze
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. What causes my asparagus to have
loose heads?
A.	 When the weather turns hot, the growing point
expands rapidly and the bracts (green modified
leaves) are spread by the early development of
the stems and ferns.
Q. Early spring freezes caused asparagus
spears in my garden to turn brown and
wither. Are they safe to eat?
A.	 Frozen tips should be harvested and thrown
away. These spears, although not poisonous, will
be off-flavor.
Q. Can I start asparagus from seed?
A.	 Yes, you can grow your own plants by planting
seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in the
row. Start the seed in the spring when the soil
temperature has reached 60 degrees F. Dig the
plants the following spring and transplant them
to the permanent bed as soon as the garden can
be worked. Growing your own plants delays the
establishment of your bed an additional year.
Q. I have just purchased some asparagus
plants. How should I plant them?
A.	 Prepare planting bed by digging out unsuitable
soil. Replace it with an organic mixture of onethird sand, one-third soil and one-third
sphagnum moss, compost or potting soil. Plant
the asparagus 18 to 24 inches apart in a trench,
with the crowns 9 inches below ground level.
Cover the crowns about 2 inches and gradually
fill in the trench as the season progresses.
Q.	 When should asparagus plantings
be divided?
A.	 Divide asparagus crowns during the late winter
after the tops have been removed. The crowns
can be divided easily into individual plants
for replanting.
Q.	 How long after planting asparagus can I
harvest the first spears?
A.	 Wait three years before the first harvest if you
plant from seed. If you start from one-year-old
crowns, harvest can begin on a limited basis the
next year. Harvesting early reduces yield and
quality of home-grown asparagus.
Q.	 How long can I harvest asparagus in
the spring?
A.	 Generally, harvest should extend four to six
weeks from the first harvest in early spring.
Stop harvesting when the diameter of the spears
is less than that of a pencil. Complete harvest in
late spring. Harvest selectively afterwards to
allow a few spears to develop into ferns.
Q.	 When I finish harvesting asparagus spears,
how should I care for the plants during the
rest of the year?
A.	 Allow the remaining spears to develop into
ferns. Occasional fertilizing and adequate
moisture help the plants develop sufficient top
growth for good spear production the next year.
Q.	 Each year my asparagus produces quite
well, but many of the spears are bent and
crooked. What causes this?
A.	 Asparagus spears grow fast and are highly
sensitive to mechanical injury from cultivation,
insect feeding or wind-blown soil particles.
Injured spears grow slowly. The noninjured side
of the spears grows rapidly causing them to
curve and bend toward the injured side.
Q.	 Can table salt be used for weed control in
my asparagus bed?
A.	 Yes, in limited amounts. Asparagus is more salt
tolerant than most vegetable plants. Use salt to
control weeds. Asparagus plants and later spear
production will be reduced by excessive
amounts of salt usage in any one season or
salt accumulation over the years.
Q. What causes my asparagus spears to get
smaller and smaller each year?
A.	 This condition occurs in warmer areas. Spear
production is mainly the result of food
accumulated in the root system the previous year.
The amount of food stored decreases with high
temperatures during fall or poor growing conditions.
Spears will be smaller the next spring. Water the
asparagus bed in July and August. Do not cut down
the ferns until late September. Remember to stop
harvesting asparagus when the diameter of the
spears is less than that of a pencil. If poor growing
conditions prevail, smaller and smaller spears will
result each year.
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"
Growing Vegetables: Asparagus
Becky Sideman, UNH Cooperative Extension Professor & Specialist
Asparagus is a perennial crop that produces spears year after year for
10 to 15 years or longer if the plants are given adequate care. Because
it remains in the same location for many years, it’s important to select
a planting site that’s convenient, as well as having good growing
characteristics in mind. The edge of a garden might be preferable to
the middle to accommodate future gardening activities.
Asparagus
Asparagus is grown for its succulent, immature shoots that, if allowed
to grow, will eventually become the bushy foliage called ferns. In
southern New Hampshire the young spears emerge about the first
week in May or when the soil temperature reaches about 40 degrees
F. Growth continues into late fall or early winter until the ferns are
killed by frost.
Growth Characteristics
The asparagus plant is made up of top (ferns), crown (buds) and
roots. All three are vital to a productive plant. The ferns are the
“factory,” which, through the process of photosynthesis, produces
food stored in the crown and roots below ground. The number of
vigorous spears in the spring depends upon the amount of food
produced and stored in the crown during the preceding summer
and fall. Producing a good crop of ferns is necessary to ensure a
good crop of spears the next spring.
Do not cut back the old ferns at the end of the season until they are
completely dead. In the fall, nutrients move from the dying ferns
to the crown. Removing the ferns too early weakens the crown and
may thereby reduce the size and number of spears the following
spring.
Growing Conditions
Site
Full sun is ideal. Asparagus needs at least 8 hours of sun per day.
Since asparagus is a long-lived perennial, do not plant where trees
or tall shrubs might eventually shade the plants or compete for
nutrients and water.
Soil
The crown and root system can grow to an enormous size: 5 to 6
feet in diameter and 10 to 15 feet deep. Therefore, where possible,
Freshly harvested asparagus.
Bringing information and education into
the communities of the Granite State
Asparagus is the most delicious when it is
freshly harvested. Maintain short-term freshness by standing an asparagus bunch in about
an inch of water in a flat-bottomed container in
the refrigerator.
Did You Know?
UNH Cooperative Extension • 2
select a soil that is loose, deep, well-drained and fertile. On sites with
poor soil, incorporate manure, compost, and/or green manure cover
crops into the soil before you plant asparagus.
Fertilizer
Have soil tested before planting and every three years thereafter. Soil
testing can be done through a number of private and public labs. UNH
Cooperative Extension offers this service. Forms and instructions are
available on our website: https://extension.unh.edu/Problem-Diagnosis-and-Testing-Services/Soil-Testing, or you can call our Info Line at
1-877-EXT-GROW (1-877-398-4769).
Adjust the soil pH to 6.5 to 6.8 by adding the appropriate quantity of
limestone or wood ashes as recommended by a soil test. Fertilizer
requirements are also determined by the same soil test. A general
recommendation is to add the equivalent of 2.5 pounds of 10-10-10
fertilizer per 100 square feet. All lime and fertilizer materials should
be thoroughly incorporated into the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches
before planting.
Planting
Asparagus is planted in the spring. The simplest method is to plant
one-year-old crowns purchased from local garden dealers or through
home garden catalogs. Even though the young crown will appear to be a
lifeless mass of stringy roots, it will begin to send up small green shoots
(spears) shortly after planting.
Set plants 18 inches apart in rows five feet apart. Dig holes or trenches
about 8 inches deep and 10 inches wide. Spread the roots in the bottom
of the hole or trench and cover the crown with about 2 inches of soil. As
the young shoots continue to grow during the first summer, gradually
fill in the hole with soil. The tops of the crowns should be about 6 inches
below the soil surface when the trenches are completely filled. This
allows for cultivation by hoe or rototiller and also provides a sufficient
depth of soil for new buds to develop on top of the crown.
An alternative to using one-year-old crowns is to start asparagus
transplants from seeds as you would start other vegetable transplants.
About 6 to 8 weeks before planting, sow the seeds directly into pots.
Thin to one plant per pot and, after all danger of frost has passed, plant
the young seedlings as described above for crowns. Do not cover the
young shoots (ferns) with soil.
Weed Control
Weeds are the most common problem in asparagus plantings,
because they compete with the crop and reduce productivity.
Do not plant asparagus or any vegetable in an area heavily infested with
quackgrass or other weeds that spread by rhizomes. If
necessary, begin a year in advance to clean out the quackgrass, either by
Asparagus crowns are planted in
trenches 10 inches wide and 8 inches
deep (top). As the young shoots start to
grow, continue to add small amounts of
soil to fill in the trench without burying
the young ferns (bottom). By the end of
the season, the trench should be filled
to the top.
The border between this row of
asparagus and the adjacent lawn is
tilled throughout the season, every 3-4
weeks to prevent grasses and other
weeds from creeping in and taking over
the planting.
8” deep
10” wide
UNH Cooperative Extension • 3
hand or mechanical cultivation or by spraying with an approved
herbicide when the grass is 6 to 8 inches tall. If using herbicides,
follow label directions precisely for safety and good weed control.
In addition to planting in an area free of weeds, it can be helpful to
maintain a tilled border around the asparagus planting, to prevent
weeds from outside the patch from migrating into the planting.
To manage annual weeds, mulch with straw, grass clippings,
chopped leaves, or pine needles after the trenches have been filled
in. Hand-hoeing while weeds are small is also effective.
Pest Control
The asparagus beetle is the most serious insect pest that affects
asparagus. The larvae are dark and slug-like and are found on the
ferns. There are two types of asparagus beetle; the common
asparagus beetle (Crioceris asparigi) and the spotted asparagus
beetle (C. duodecimpunctata). The adult spotted asparagus beetle
is red with black spots, and the adult common asparagus beetle is
metallic-colored with yellow spots. You can also reduce the
damage caused by these insects if you practice “clean harvest”,
meaning that you harvest all of the spears every time you harvest
during the time that you’re harvesting, and then let all of them
grow to ferns. At the end of fall, remove all of the dead ferns and
crop debris that would otherwise shelter the adult beetles. If these
practices do not control the pest, several insecticides are labeled for
management of asparagus beetle.
Asparagus rust and Fusarium crown and root rot are common
diseases. Both diseases can weaken asparagus plants, so that the
planting becomes less productive over time. Most varieties are
fairly resistant to rust. Removing old ferns provides additional
protection. Fusarium is more difficult to control. Use vigorous
varieties listed as tolerant and do not plant new asparagus in areas
that were previously planted to asparagus.
Harvest
Do not harvest asparagus until the third year after planting. The
plants need at least two full seasons of growth before they build up
ample food reserves to sustain harvests. In the third year, harvest
only 2 to 3 weeks. In years thereafter, harvest no longer than 6 to 8
weeks (until about July 1 in southern New Hampshire).
Harvesting for a longer period of time will not allow for maximum
fern growth. Harvest the spears when they are 6 to 8 inches tall.
Either snap or cut the spears off at ground level. To avoid injuring
spears beneath the soil surface, do not cut more than one inch
below the surface.
Storage
Do not harvest asparagus until the
third year after planting. The plants
need at least two full seasons of
growth before they build up ample
food reserves to sustain harvests.
Did You Know?
These are very healthy asparagus ferns,
a few weeks after harvest. Compost
has been added and weeds have been
killed by shallow hoeing.
UNH Cooperative Extension brings information and education into the communities of the Granite State to help make New Hampshire’s
individuals, businesses, and communities more successful and its natural
resources healthy and productive. For 100 years, our specialists have been tailoring contemporary, practical education to regional needs, helping create a well-informed citizenry while strengthening key economic sectors.
The University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension is an equal
opportunity educator and employer. University of New Hampshire,
U.S. Department of Agriculture and N.H. counties cooperating.
Asparagus is of highest quality when freshly harvested. It can be stored for
a couple of weeks if the temperature is held at 34 degrees F and high relative
humidity, but sweetness and flavor will deteriorate. Maintain short-term
freshness by standing an asparagus bunch in about an inch of water in a
flat-bottomed container in the refrigerator.
Care of Established Plantings
Remove ferns in the late fall, once they have completely died back. Early
each spring, cultivate to remove any perennial weeds, and apply
fertilizer materials over the surface. Apply the equivalent of 10-10-10
fertilizer at about 2,5 pounds per 100 square feet. Incorporate very lightly
into the soil, no deeper than 1 to 2 inches. If you choose to use compost or
animal manures, apply them just after you stop harvesting for the year. Keep
the asparagus planting weed free with mulches or by hand-weeding.
Updated: June 2016
For More Information:
State Office
Taylor Hall
59 College Rd.
Durham, NH 03824
http://extension.unh.edu
Education Center and
Information Line
answers@unh.edu
1-877-EXT-GROW
(1-877-398-4769)
9 am–2 pm M–F
Search key words:
“UNH Education Center”
About the Authors
Original fact sheet by Otho
S. Wells, UNH Extension
Vegetable Specialist. Reviewed
and revised by Becky
Sideman, UNH Extension
Vegetable & Berry Specialist.
Dr. Becky Sideman is an
Extension Professor in the
Dept. of Biological Sciences
at UNH, and is the state
specialist for Sustainable
Horticulture for UNH
Cooperative Extension. Her
program emphasizes vegetable
and berry crop production
including season extension for
Northern New England.
Visit our website:
extension.unh.edu",
"Publication 426-401 (SPES-250P)
Asparagus
Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Horticulture, Virginia Tech
Alan McDaniel, Extension Specialist, Horticulture, Virginia Tech
Reviewed by Dave Close, Consumer Horticulture and Master Gardener Specialist, Horticulture, Virginia Tech
Seeds may be started in peat pots; they are
slow to germinate (up to three weeks indoors),
so be patient. Seedlings may be transplanted
in June, either to the final growing site or to a
temporary transplant bed. Direct transplanting
to the permanent site allows simple planting
techniques and avoids disturbing plant growth
with a second move. However, the seedling
plants will require more attention to weed
control in the larger, permanent site compared
to a smaller transplant bed where the plants are
closer together. If using a transplant bed, dig
the one-year-old crowns the next spring before
growth starts. Use a spading fork, digging 6
inches under the plants, to gently loosen the
soil and lift the crowns. Carefully separate the
intertwining roots of neighboring plants, then set the crowns
in the permanent site.
Choose a site with good drainage and full sun. The tall ferns of
asparagus may shade other plants, so plan accordingly. Prepare
the bed as early as possible and enrich it with additions of
manure, compost, bone or blood meal, leaf mold, wood ashes,
or a combination of several of these. In heavy soils, double
digging is recommended. To double-dig, remove the top foot
of soil from the planting area. Then, with a spading fork or
spade, break up the subsoil by pushing the tool into the next 10
to 12 inches of soil and rocking it back and forth. Do this every
6 inches or so. Double digging is ideal for the trench method
of planting asparagus since a 12-inch-deep trench is usually
dug anyway. The extra work of breaking up the subsoil will
be well worth the effort, especially in heavy soil. The trench
is dug 12 to 18 inches wide, with 4 to 5 feet between trenches.
The same method may be used in wide-bed plantings, with
plants staggered in three rows. Mix the topsoil that has been
removed with organic matter, and spread about 2 inches of the
mixture in the bottom of the trench or bed. Set the plants 15 to
18 inches apart, mounding the soil slightly under each plant so
that the crown is slightly above the roots. Crowns should be of
a grayish-brown color, plump and healthy-looking. Remove
any rotted roots before planting. Spread the roots out over the
mound of soil and cover the crown with 2 to 3 inches of soil.
Firm well. As the plants grow, continue to pull soil over the
Environmental Preferences
LIGHT: Sunny.
SOIL: Well-drained, deep sandy loam.
FERTILITY: Medium-rich.
pH: 6.0 to 6.7
TEMPERATURE: Cool (60 to 65°F).
MOISTURE: Average; a flush of spears often
follows a soaking rain.
Culture
PLANTING: 1-year crowns, early spring.
SPACING: 18 inches by 4 to 5 feet; or in wide
beds of three rows with plants 18 inches apart in all directions.
HARDINESS: Hardy perennial, should be mulched in autumn.
FERTILIZER NEEDS: Medium-heavy feeder, high phosphorus
and potassium and organic matter at planting; annual nitrogen
in late winter or very early spring; may sidedress after harvest;
benefits from early topdressing of compost.
Cultural Practices
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that will live from 12 to
15 years or longer. It is one of the most valuable of the early
vegetables and is well adapted to freezer storage. During
the harvest period (traditionally spring, but see below for
summer harvest instructions), the spears develop daily from
underground crowns. Asparagus does well where winters are
cool and the soil occasionally freezes at least a few inches
deep; it is considered very hardy.
Start asparagus either from seed or from 1- to 2-year-old
crowns. For fastest results, crowns purchased from a reputable
nursery are recommended. There is risk of disease from less
reputable dealers’ asparagus. Starting plants from seed requires
an extra year before harvest. Seed may be started in peat pots;
they are slow to germinate, so be patient. Seedlings may be
transplanted in June. Crowns are usually shipped and set out
in March or April.
Visit our website: www.ext.vt.edu
Produced by Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, 2020
Virginia Cooperative Extension programs and employment are open to all, regardless of age, color, disability, gender, gender identity, gender expression, national origin, political affiliation, race, religion, sexual orientation, genetic
information,veteran status, or any other basis protected by law. An equal opportunity/affirmative action employer. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Virginia
State University, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating. Edwin J. Jones, Director, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg; M. Ray McKinnie, Administrator, 1890 Extension Program, Virginia State
University, Petersburg.
VT/0920/426-401(SPES-250P)
2
www.ext.vt.edu
crowns (about 2 inches every two weeks) until the trench is
filled. Water if rainfall is inadequate.
According to recent research, total yield is unaffected by
asparagus planting depth; however, deeper plantings produced
larger spears, but fewer of them. Shallow plantings send up
shoots earlier in spring, thus are subjected to possible frost
damage.
Asparagus shoots or spears should not be harvested the first
season after crowns are set. Research plots harvested one year
after planting crowns had a 23% smaller cumulative yield
after five years than did plots harvested for the first time two
years after planting. Harvest lightly for three to four weeks the
second year. The fleshy root system needs to develop and store
food reserves to produce growth during subsequent seasons.
Plants harvested too heavily too soon often become weak and
spindly, and the crowns may never recover. An extra year is
added to the above schedule for asparagus started from seed;
i.e., do not harvest at all the first TWO seasons, and harvest
lightly the third. When the asparagus plants are in their fourth
season, they may be harvested for eight to ten weeks per year.
Weed the bed each spring before the first shoots come up, to
avoid accidentally breaking off spears. During the production
period, it is best to pull rather than hoe weeds if possible.
Harvest spears daily during the eight- to ten-week harvest
period. The 6- to 8-inch spears are best and should be snapped
off just below the soil surface. If the asparagus is allowed to get
much taller, the bases of the spears will be tough and will have
to be cut; cutting too deeply can injure the crown buds which
produce the next spears. Blanched asparagus is a gourmet
item; to blanch (whiten) the spears, mound soil around them
or otherwise exclude light from them so that chlorophyll is
not formed in the stalks.
When harvest is over (after 8 to 10 weeks), allow the spears
to grow. Asparagus has attractive, fern-like foliage that makes
a nice garden border. Some gardeners prefer to support the
growing foliage with stakes and strings to keep them tidy. In
high-wind areas, it is a good idea to plant the rows parallel
to the prevailing winds so that the plants support each other
to some extent.
There are several ways to extend the harvest period of your
asparagus planting. One method is to plant at different depths
(3 inches, 4 to 6 inches, 6 to 8 inches, and 8 to 10 inches).
The shallow plantings will come up first and can be harvested
while the deeper plantings are just forming. This method will
result in a slightly longer harvest, but may result in some plants
being less vigorous than others.
Another way to extend the harvest for a few weeks is to
remove mulch from half of the asparagus bed. Leave the
mulch on the other half. The exposed soil will warm up more
quickly, and the crowns will sprout earlier. This process may
be speeded up even further using black plastic, but be careful
not to encourage growth too early, as heavy frost can make
spears inedible. Remove mulch from the second bed when
spears begin to appear.
A third technique for extending asparagus harvest has been the
subject of university research and is recommended for home
gardeners who have plenty of space. Plant double the amount
of asparagus needed for your household. Harvest half of the
plants as you normally would in spring and early summer, then
allow the foliage to grow for the rest of the season. During the
early harvest period, allow the ferns to grow in the other half
of the asparagus planting. Then, cut the ferns in the second
half in late July. This causes the crowns to send up new spears,
which can be harvested till late in the season. If rainfall is
short in summer, it will help to water this bed for good spear
production. Light mulch will help keep the soil surface from
becoming too hard for the shoots to break through easily. If
using this method, harvest the spring bed only in spring and the
fall bed only in fall! Otherwise, you risk weakening the crowns.
In all asparagus plantings, cut the foliage down to 2-inch stubs
after frost when the foliage yellows, before the red berries
fall off to reduce overcrowding caused by sprouting of selfseeding. A layer of 4 to 6 inches of mulch of compost, manure,
leaves, or other material added at this time will help control
weeds and add organic matter and nutrients.
Common Problems
DISEASES: Rust (use resistant varieties); Fusarium root rot.
INSECTS: Asparagus beetles, cutworms.
CULTURAL: Weak, spindly plants and/or too few spears from
too early or too heavy a harvest; crown rot or poor production
from inadequately prepared, heavy soil; moles/voles can be
a problem.
Harvesting And Storage
DAYS TO MATURITY: 2 to 3 years.
HARVEST: Third year spears; snap off just under soil surface
when 6 to 8 inches tall, before tips begin to separate; use or
refrigerate immediately.
APPROXIMATE YIELDS: 3 to 4 pounds per year, per 10-
foot row.
AMOUNT TO RAISE: 6 pounds per person.
STORAGE: Process or refrigerate immediately in plastic bag.
PRESERVATION: Can or freeze.",
"Developed by James Manning, Undergraduate Research Assistant, and Daniel Brainard, Vegetable Extension Specialist;
MSU Department of Horticulture; Gary Heilig, MSU Extension educator.
Variety selection
In Michigan, the most commonly grown
varieties are Millenium and Jersey varieties
(e.g. Jersey Giant; Jersey Knight). Millenium is a
newer variety from Canada that is well adapted
to Michigan’s climate. It does well on heavier
soils, but is somewhat more susceptible to foliar
diseases than the Jersey varieties.
Preparation and planting
Asparagus is a perennial crop that can be
expected to produce for 10 years or more, so it is
particularly important to take the time to find a
suitable site, and prepare it carefully. Sandy, welldrained soils with pH between 6.8 and 7.5 are
preferred. Relatively high levels of phosphorous
should be provided (up to 200 lbs P/A) and
incorporated before planting. Perennial weeds,
such as quackgrass, should be eliminated before
planting. Plant asparagus crowns in a trench
10 to 14 inches deep. After planting, cover the
crowns with 2 inches of soil.
Care
As new shoots grow, fill in the soil around
them, but don’t cover the tips of the shoots.
Do not harvest the first year after planting and
only harvest sparingly in the second year. Add N
and K sources (about 50 lbs N/A) after harvest
in subsequent years. Asparagus has relatively
low water requirements, and generally doesn’t
need irrigation in Michigan on most garden soils.
However, on very sandy soils, irrigation is helpful
during fern growth.
Major pests
Insects: Asparagus beetle, Asparagus miner.
Diseases: Rust, Fusarium, Phytophthora, purple
spot.
Harvesting and storage
You will get the first large harvest in the third
and fourth years. The season begins in May and
can continue through June. A 25-foot row should
yield 7 to 12 pounds of asparagus. Snap off 8- to
10-inch spears that are less than 1 inch in diameter
before the buds open. Leave those that are smaller
than a pencil. Complete the harvest before July
1. The ferns that grow following harvest should
not be cut until they are completely dead in the
fall or just before growth begins in spring. Store
asparagus under cool and moist conditions, such as
the crisper of your refrigerator.
Asparagus (Asparagus officianalis)
Family: Liliaceae
Hardiness: Hardy
Ease of growing: Difficult
Nutrient needs: Moderate
Water needs: Low
Common propagation: Crowns (one-year-old
nursery grown)
Transplants
Weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 12
Start: February
Plant out: May
Planning facts
Typical spacing: 12” to 18” in 4’ to 5’ rows
Depth: 10” to 14” trench
Plants per square foot: 0.25
Time to first harvest: 2 to 3 years
How to grow asparagus
www.migarden.msu.edu
WCAG 2.0 AA
MSU is an affirmative-action, equal-opportunity employer, committed to achieving excellence through a diverse workforce and inclusive culture that encourages all people to reach
their full potential. Michigan State University Extension programs and materials are open to all without regard to race, color, national origin, gender, gender identity, religion, age, height,
weight, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, marital status, family status or veteran status. Issued in furtherance of MSU Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in
cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Jeffrey W. Dwyer, Interim Director, MSU Extension, East Lansing, MI 48824. This information is for educational purposes only.
Reference to commercial products or trade names does not imply endorsement by MSU Extension or bias against those not mentioned.",
"Garden Gate Greenhouse, Inc.
3415 E 500 S
Peru, In 46970
 765-473-4992
Compliments of
Harvesting Asparagus—continued
about 4 to 6 weeks. The third year after planting and thereafter, harvesting can continue for
6 to 8 weeks. This will all depend on weather
conditions.
It is best to pick all spears each time, not allowing spears to fern out initially. This is to
prevent asparagus beetles from laying their
eggs in the ferns. A general rule is to stop harvesting when the diameter of most of the asparagus spears becomes pencil thin.
For the last harvest, snap all the spears off at
ground level. To encourage foliage growth for
the rest of the growing season, apply 1 lb. of 12-12-
12 fertilizer per 50 feet of
row. The foliage should be
allowed to remain as long
as it is green. This year’s
growth is making the food
reserves to store for next
year’s crop.
Storage of Asparagus
Asparagus is perishable and should be harvested in the morning when air temperatures are
cool. After picking, immerse spears in ice-cold
water to remove the heat; then drain the water
and place the spears in plastic bags. Store in
the refrigerator at 38 to 40 degrees. Asparagus
will keep for 1 to 2 weeks with little loss of
quality.
Crunchy Almond Asparagus
1 lb. fresh asparagus
2 c. crushed seasoned croutons
8 oz. shredded cheddar cheese
1 can cream of chicken soup
1/2 c. chopped almonds, unblanched
1 T. melted butter
Cut asparagus into 3/4-inch pieces. Cook in 1
cup lightly salted, boiling water until tendercrisp. Drain asparagus; reserve liquid. Combine seasoned crumbs and cheese; set aside.
Combine soup, reserved asparagus liquid, and
asparagus. Layer 1/2 the crumb mixture in a
buttered 3-quart casserole dish. Top with 1/2
the asparagus. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Toss chopped almonds with melted butter. Sprinkle over casserole. Bake at 350o
for
30-35 minutes. Yield: 6 servings.
Grace Reed, Mt. Zion
from Homemade Happiness:
Dunkard Brethren Cookbook, 3rd edition, 2007.
How to Grow
Asparagus
For more information on growing asparagus, visit
the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Web site, and download HO-96W, “Growing
Asparagus in the Home Garden.”
Asparagus has been cultivated for over 2,000
years in the eastern
Mediterranean region. It
was brought to America
with the early colonists.
Its name derives from the Greek word asparagos, which means “sprout” or “shoot.” Ancient
Greeks and Romans prized it for various medicinal qualities. Today, we value asparagus
because it is loaded with nutrients, contains
fiber, folate, chromium, vitamins A, C, E, K,
and the amino acid asparagine.
Asparagus should be considered a long-term
perennial vegetable crop (15 years or more)
that will require generous space, preferably in
an out-of-the-way spot. It grows best in fertile,
well-drained soil in an area that gets at least 6
hours of sun a day. Soil pH should be 6.5 to
7.5.
Preparing to Plant
Asparagus is most often planted from crowns,
which are the base and roots of
one-year-old asparagus plants.
Plant from early April to late
May after the soil has warmed to
about 50o
F. They will not grow
until the soil warms. If the
crowns are exposed to cold wet
soils over a prolonged period,
Fusarium rot can become a threat. Plant the
asparagus at the west or north side of the garden so that it will not shade other vegetables.
Dig a Trench!
Dig a furrow or trench about 6 inches deep,
piling the excess soil to the sides of the trench.
Scatter about 1 lb. of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 50
feet of row in the bottom of the furrow. Then
rake the fertilizer in well. This will make phosphorus immediately available to the crowns
without the risk of burning them by direct contact.
Carefully spread crowns to loosen them, then
place in the furrow, about 18 inches apart. If
the crowns seem too
stiff, soften them ahead
of time in water. If you
plant more than one
row, space the rows five
feet apart from center to
center. There are two
schools of thought on covering the crowns.
Some prefer to loosely backfill the trench to a
little over its original soil level, taking care not
to compact the soil. Others prefer to cover the
crowns with about two inches of soil, then, as
the shoots emerge, continue to sift soil into the
trench until it is slightly mounded at the top.
Weather may dictate the best method for you.
Heavy rain could cause problems with the second method.
Weed Control
Weed control is essential to establish a strong
asparagus bed. Early hand pulling of weeds,
hoeing, and cultivating are the best methods.
An organic mulch can also help to suppress
weeds. Note: the dense fern canopy that
forms later will also help to shade out weed
growth.
Do not use salt as a weed
killer! This is an old homespun remedy. Although salt
will not harm the asparagus,
it inhibits water penetration
in the soil. More important,
rain can leach the salt out of
the asparagus bed and into
the rest of the garden, injuring other vegetables.
Harvesting
You do not have to wait two years after planting to harvest asparagus spears. Research
shows that harvesting one year after planting
stimulates more bud production on the
crowns. Harvest asparagus
by snapping 7 to 9 inch
spears with tight tips. It is
best not to cut asparagus below the soil with a knife, as
this may injure other buds on
the crown.
Most often, the first year after planting, you will harvest
several times throughout a
three-week period. Two
years after planting, the harvest can increase
to
How to Grow Asparagus",
"Caring for the Site
For the first two years, gently pull weeds taking care not to disturb the asparagus’
roots. Water regularly but do not allow the bed to become
saturated. While the asparagus plants are becoming established water them once or twice a week.
After the first season, if the area has no measurable
precipitation, water once a week.
Fertilize in the spring. In the fall, after the
foliage dies, cut it off about an inch above
the ground and lay it on the bed to
provide protection during the winter. When winter ends, destroy the
foliage as it may harbor disease.
Add an inch or two of mulch
each spring. Inspect the plants
regularly looking for signs of
disease.
Planting
Recommended varieties include Jersey Giant, Jersey Prince, Jersey Knight, and Millennium. Starting with crowns, as opposed to seeds, is recommended as it cuts down on the
length of time from planting to harvest. Plan to plant the crowns two to four weeks before
the last average frost date in your area.
• Soak the crowns in water for approximately twenty minutes.
• Dig a trench that is six inches deep and twelve inches wide.
• Lay the crowns eighteen to twenty–four inches apart in the trench and fill with about two or three inches
of soil on top of them.
• Examine the site weekly looking for plants to emerge.
• When they emerge add another inch or two of soil.
• Repeat this process until the trench is completely filled in, leaving a small mound to allow for future
settling of the soil.
• Add an inch or two of mulch to smother weeds and conserve water.
Selecting and Preparing a Site
Choose a site that is well–drained and receives eight or more hours of full sun daily. A loose,
deep soil is preferable. Late spring frosts can damage the plants so find an area that is not
low-lying or exposed to frost. If the asparagus bed will be part of a larger vegetable garden,
choose an area that will not be shaded by other plants.
Prepare a four feet wide bed, removing all weeds and their roots. If planting more than one
row, allow for five feet between rows. Add a generous amount of well–composted manure or compost. Incorporate the nutrients recommended by the soil test results into the top six inches of soil.
Asparagus plants may take 2 to 3 years to get started but, once established, can be productive for
15 to 20 or more years. Before planting asparagus, have your soil tested to determine if it has the
right amount of nutrients for asparagus to thrive. It is best to test and prepare the soil a year prior
to planting.
Growing Asparagus
Developed by the Pennsylvania Department of Education and Penn State University (Project PA).
This project has been funded at least in part with Federal funds from the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The contents of this publication do
not necessarily reflect the view or policies of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, nor does mention of trade names, commercial products,
or organization imply endorsement by the U.S. Government. USDA is an equal opportunity provider, employer, and lender.
Harvesting
Do not harvest during the planting year. Asparagus needs time to develop strong crowns.
Harvest during a couple weeks in the second year and for up to two months in the third
year.
Harvest asparagus shoots when they are six to eight inches tall shoots by cutting them with
a sharp knife or scissors at ground level. Stop harvesting when the diameter of the spears decreases to the
size of a pencil. After harvesting, fertilize the asparagus in early summer. Do not cut down the remaining
ferns in the summer. Allow them to grow and mature as this replenishes the nutrients. Usually in early winter
the foliage will turn brown or yellow. At this time, cut the ferns back to the ground. Fertilize and top with
straw or mulch. Spears will push up through the mulch in the spring.",
"Asparagus
VEGETABLE CROPS PRODUCTION GUIDE
FOR THE ATLANTIC PROVINCES
Prepared by the ADVISORY COMMITTEE ON VEGETABLE CROPS
Published by authority of the ATLANTIC PROVINCES AGRICULTURE
SERVICES CO-ORDINATING COMMITTEE
Introduction
Asparagus is a member of the Liliaceae (lily family) and has separate male and female plants.
Asparagus officinalis is a perennial crop which is productive for fifteen years or more after
establishment. It originated along the seacoasts of Europe and Asia and has been cultivated for
over 2000 years.
Asparagus is adaptable to temperate regions where low temperature or drought give the crop a
rest period. The minimum temperature for germination is 10 C. The optimum range for
germination is 16 to 30 C. The optimum temperature for germination is 24 C. The crop does well
under cool season conditions; however, the rate of growth is temperature sensitive. The length of
time required for the asparagus shoot to grow from 10 cm to 25 cm varies from 5.3 days at a
mean daily temperature of 11 C, to 1.9 days at a mean temperature of 25 C. Rhizome buds form
at temperatures between 16 and 32 C. This plant requires a good water supply but will not
tolerate wet soils. Asparagus is frost sensitive so areas subject to late spring and early fall frost,
should be avoided if high yield is to be obtained. Dormant asparagus crowns are rarely harmed
by winter cold.
The preferred soil is deep, reasonably free of stones and gravel, loose, a fine loamy sand to sandy
loam with reasonable organic matter. Good drainage is essential. Heavy soils such as clay loam
should be avoided. A site should not have had asparagus production in the past. This crop
requires a rooting depth greater than 1.5 m.
The first asparagus harvest occurs in the spring of the third year from planting (1 year old
crowns). A potential yield in the third year would be 1000 kg/ha, in the fourth year 2000 kg/ha,
and in the fifth and succeeding years 3000 kg/ha. Recent cultivar trials show large variations
between cultivars in yield potential during the first few years but no long term data is available.
Presently asparagus is a specialty crop in the Atlantic area and small amounts are delivered to
roadside markets, restaurants and retail stores. However, there is potential for increased fresh
market consumption, export potential and also enough land resources for processed asparagus
production. (White or blanched asparagus is a specialty crop that can be grown).
Nutrient Content: Very good source of Vitamin A and potassium. Good source of Vitamin C.
Contains small amounts of other nutrients including iron. Very low in sodium and calories. 3 to 4
spears provides 10 kilocalories.
Crop Establishment
Seed harvested from strong, productive parent plants will produce plants that are more
productive and less susceptible to disease than those grown from seed taken from weak plants.
Seed of older varieties are continually being re-selected for increased performance. Many high
yielding F1 hybrid male cultivars are on the market. Male plants are usually higher yielding than
female plants within a cultivar.
Seed Treatment - Asparagus seed is soaked for 3 to 4 days at 30-35 C before planting. This
soaking softens the seed coat, swells the seed, and starts the germination process which results in
earlier emergence of up to one week. There is no advantage if seeding is done into a dry soil.
Seeding/Planting - Asparagus seed should not be planted deeper than 2.5 to 4 cm, depending on
soil type and seeding date. Choose a light, well drained sandy loam seedbed with pH about 6.6
and free of perennial weeds. Sow 1 kg of seed per 1000 square meters of seedbed, to produce
approximately 25,000 crowns, enough for 1 ha, after plant selection. Select 1 year old crowns the
following spring, weighing 30 to 50g.
Permanent field spacing of the crowns should be in rows 1.25 to 1.75 m apart with 30 to 45 cm
between plants. This requires approximately 20,000 plants per hectare. Close spacing usually
results in higher total yields but the spears are thinner and life of the stand may be shortened. Lift
1 year old plants in early spring. Discard small crowns (under 25 g) and crowns with
close-spaced, narrow buds. Grade plants so that similar sized crowns are planted in the same
field. Plant in furrows 15 to 20 cm deep, shallower on heavier soils. Spread roots as much as
possible, place buds upward and cover with not more than 5 cm of soil. Fill the furrow gradually
by cultivation during the first year. Good weed control will maintain a high plant population and
vigorous growth.
Fields can also be planted with asparagus seedlings that are 8 to 12 weeks old. Start transplants in
containers or cells that are 5 cm or larger. Use a sterilized media containing half sand and half
peat mix. Use normal greenhouse growing practices. Seeds are planted individually in blocks,
modules (large) or flats in February. Transplants are planted to the field in late May. Direct
seeding may be possible in some situations.
Crop Management
Establishment - Site selection and preparation should begin two years prior to planting in order
to properly adjust the pH and eliminate perennial weed problems. It is essential to maintain
healthy fern growth during the first two growing seasons or the crown growth will be restricted
and the plants permanently damaged. Weed control during the first season is easily accomplished
by slowly filling in the trenches during the season. These cultivations can be timed with flushes
of weeds as long as ferns are not covered. During the second year the beds must be kept weed
free, especially during the late summer and fall. Weed competition late in the season will restrict
crown growth. Close attention must be given to insects and diseases that attack young ferns. As
ferns become vigorous and full, diseases can cause the ferns to die prematurely, especially in the
late summer and early fall during periods of humid weather. Fungicides can be applied to control
this foliage decline.
Mature Stands - After the last cutting of the season, plantings are usually disked lightly for weed
control and to incorporate fertilizer. Then the fern is allowed to grow for the remainder of the
year.
Asparagus fern growth should not be removed while it is still green as it supplies food to the
roots. Ferns should be left to trap snow which protects crowns from low temperature winter
injury. The fern can be cut with a rotary or flail-type mower early in the spring and lightly disked
into the soil. This can provide 10 to 15 tonnes of organic matter per hectare. All cultivation for
fern disposal, weed control and fertilizer incorporation should be shallow and kept to a
minimum.
In a vigorous stand the harvest period in year 3 is 1 to 2 weeks, in year 4, 3 to 4 weeks and in
year 5 and thereafter 5 to 7 weeks. Harvest should only proceed if the spear size is large. When
the size starts to decrease then harvest should stop. Over harvesting results in small diameter
ferns which initiate small buds which give rise to small spears the next harvest season.
The fall seeding of rye can be done in late August or early September (if herbicide residues are
low). The rye can be burned down with a herbicide in the spring after mowing the fern and before
fertilizer is applied. The rye will serve to reduce sandblasting. This may result in a slightly later
harvest date. In some fields, this will prevent soil erosion over winter which can be a serious
problem in this crop.
Nutrition
ALL ADDITIONS OF LIME AND FERTILIZER OR MANURES SHOULD BE BASED ON
RECOMMENDATIONS FROM A SOIL TEST.
Asparagus responds to manures. Use it prior to planting crowns and with annual top dressings.
Not only does it contribute nutrients but also significant organic matter to the soil. Caution
should be used with poultry manure as excess nitrogen may be detrimental.
Lime - Lime should be applied to maintain the soil pH in the range 6.8 to 7.0. Asparagus is
particularly sensitive to soil acidity which is a frequent cause of crop failure. Heavy applications
of limestone must be deeply and evenly incorporated to be sure the crown is surrounded with soil
which has a high pH.
Nitrogen - The needs for crown production are lower than in established fields. For crown
production half the nitrogen is applied at planting time and half is side-dressed in August
depending on weather conditions and the vigor of the stand. For new plantings all of the nitrogen
is applied preplant. For established plantings apply half the nitrogen before harvest and half the
nitrogen immediately after harvest.
Phosphorus - This nutrient is important to crown producing fields and new plantings. It is
important to band phosphorus in new plantings to ensure the stand will be well fertilized in this
element as it cannot be effectively applied later. Approximately 450 kg of 0-20-0 mixture should
be banded with the crowns per hectare in addition to the recommended broadcast applications.
Potash - Asparagus has a relatively high potash requirement and an additional sidedressing in
established fields in early August may increase yields the following year.
Micronutrients - Asparagus has a high boron requirement. If a deficiency is suspected apply a
soil spray of 1.75 to 2.25 kg of actual boron per hectare or apply a boronated fertilizer. Also,
foliar sprays of boron may be used.
Sulfur may be beneficial on sandy soils with low organic matter.
Application Method - Generally in established fields nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium and
magnesium are broadcast with shallow incorporation. On newly established fields a wide band
over the row may be used for nitrogen and potash.
Pests and Pest Control
Weeds
Perennial weeds such as quackgrass, must be completely eliminated during the year prior to the
planting of asparagus crowns or seeds. During the establishment year use the ""stale seedbed
technique'', whereby emerged weeds are chemically ""burnt-off'' with a post emergence herbicide
prior to crop emergence. Additionally, herbicide(s) that control germinating weeds
(preemergence) can be applied before and after spear emergence.
Established asparagus can be disked in the spring and then treated with one of several residual
herbicides prior to spear emergence. Alternatively emerged weeds can be treated with a
postemergence ""burnoff'' treatment and then a residual herbicide prior to spear emergence. A
second treatment of herbicide should be applied after the last harvest to provide weed control
through the summer.
Diseases
Fusarium Diseases (fungi)
Characteristics - Growing stalks are stunted, yellow and may wilt. Fern growth is also yellow
and stunted. Crowns, roots and stems may show discoloration of vascular bundles and varying
amounts of decay.
Control - Avoid replanting land which previously grew asparagus. Treat seed and crowns before
planting. To avoid injuring the crowns, do not cultivate deeper than 10 cm. Irrigate sandy soil
under high moisture stress. Use tolerant cultivars.
Rust (fungus)
Characteristics - This is a potentially serious foliage and stem disease which causes elongated
orange red powdery areas on stems and foliage. All commercial cultivars are susceptible to rust.
Control - Disease control is achieved only with thorough spray coverage on a regular schedule
once the disease is observed. This spray must protect the new foliage as it grows, before rust
spores can land on it and germinate (a 7 to 10 day schedule from late May to late August).
Physiological Disorders
Hollow Stem - This problem tends to be more prevalent during periods of warm, wet weather
resulting in rapid spear growth and is found in crops that are ready to be harvested. You may
have a problem in specific years with certain cultivars. Plant vigor and spacing may also play a
role.
Hooking - This results in bent spears. This problem has many causes but is always because of
some sort of injury to the spear - either above or below the ground. Spears will hook into
prevailing winds where sandblasting or cold air is a problem. Under the soil, cutworm feeding,
cutting knives, stones, etc. can cause severe hooking.
Insects
Asparagus Beetle
Characteristics - The adult beetles are 6 mm in length, blueish black in color with three creamy
yellow spots on each wing cover. The larvae are dark gray with black heads. Adults feed on the
asparagus shoots. The larvae feed on the leaves and stems.
Control - Apply insecticides as necessary when damage becomes significant.
Spotted Asparagus Beetles
Characteristics - The adult beetles are 6 mm long and reddish-orange with 6 black spots on each
wing. They feed on the young shoots and fronds. The orange larvae feed inside the berries.
Control - Leave uncut rows in the spring to serve as traps for the beetles. When temperatures are
above 21 C and the beetles are seen on the uncut rows use one of the recommended chemicals.
Cutworms, Tarnished Plant Bugs and Aphids
These insects may cause problems in some seasons but they have not been identified as
significant pests of asparagus in this area.
FOR SPECIFIC CHEMICAL CONTROLS SEE THE ATLANTIC PROVINCES ""GUIDE TO
PEST MANAGEMENT"" FOR VEGETABLE CROPS.
Harvesting and Handling
New plantings can usually be harvested for about 2 weeks in the spring of the third year after
field setting. Harvest by cutting or snapping spears at ground level when 18 to 25 cm tall. In
established plantings, the harvest season is from about May 20 to early July. Harvesting should
be terminated early if emerging spears are too thin to meet the grade standards. Over cutting
causes a rapid decline in stand vigor. Harvesting and trimming must be done efficiently if this
crop is to be profitable.
Storage and Conditioning
Asparagus is usually not stored. It can be kept 3 to 4 weeks when hydrocooled immediately after
harvest and stored at 2 C. Storage at 0 C for more than 10 days can cause chilling injury. High
relative humidity is important to prevent excessive moisture losses. High relative humidity is
obtained by placing the butts of asparagus on wet pads or pre-packaging spears in perforated
bags. A moisture loss of 3 to 6% will markedly affect the quality. The average freezing
temperature of asparagus is -1 C. At 0 C half the initial sugar in an asparagus spear is lost after 2
weeks of storage, at 10 C it takes 1 week, at 20 C it takes 2 days, and at 30 C only about one half
day. Spears should be held upright to avoid undesirable curvature.
Controlled atmosphere storage benefits asparagus by reducing decay and toughening. When the
temperature can be held between 0 and 3 C, 12 ± 2% carbon dioxide and normal oxygen makes
an acceptable atmosphere; at higher temperatures the carbon dioxide should be reduced to 7 ±
2%. Exposure of spears to ethylene which can cause toughening should be avoided.
Bibliography
(See also General References)
Asparagus Production in California. Feb. 1977. Bulletin # 1882. University of California, Dept.
of Vegetable Crops, Davis.
Insect Pests of Asparagus O.M.A.F. Factsheet. June 1982. Agdex 254/625. R.T. Wirkasch, Dept.
of Environmental Biology, U. of Guelph.
Diseases of Asparagus O.M.A.F. Factsheet. May 1982. Agdex 254/635. R.T. Wirkasch, Dept. of
Environmental Biology, U. of Guelph.
Asparagus Production in Canada. April 1983. L.R. Mapplebeck and H. Tiessen, Dept. of
Horticultural Science, U. of Guelph, Guelph, Ontario.
Sandsted, R.F., D.A. Wilcox, T.A. Zitterand, A.A. Muka. 1985. Asparagus Information Bulletin
202. Cornell Cooperative Extension Pub. 11 pp.
Diseases and Pests of Vegetable Crops in Canada. 1994. The Canadian Phytopathological
Society and Entomological Society of Canada. pp. 43-49 and 404-406.",
"MontGuide
For More Online MontGuides, Visit www.msuextension.org
YARD AND GARDEN MT198365AG Revised 6/19
Asparagus in the home
garden
by Cheryl Moore-Gough, Extension Horticulture Specialist
This publication offers basic instructions for successfully growing asparagus,
from choosing plant materials to maintaining beds.
ASPARAGUS (ASPARAGUS OFFICINALIS) IS A
perennial plant that will provide delicious and nutritious
food for many years, if started correctly and with proper care
of the bed properly. Asparagus is low in calories and a great
source of vitamins C, A, and K, as well as folate.
Most cultivars of asparagus are hardy to USDA Zone
3, but some cultivars are hardy to Zone 2. Asparagus does
best on sites with moist soil and full sun. Beds reach peak
production in about eight years, when the yield of spears can
reach five pounds per 100 square feet. A properly managed
bed remains productive for 12 to 15 years; some over 30 years
old are still fairly productive. Asparagus tolerates higher soil
salinity than most other garden plants and can be planted in
low, wet areas where other crops will not grow.
Establishing a bed
Plant Materials
Start by purchasing one- or two-year-old crowns, or divide
and transplant old crowns, leaving one bud per division. An
old clump can be divided into as many as 50 new plants.
Direct seeding is possible, but not recommended due to
variability of resulting seedlings. Planting newly purchased
crowns is the most popular way to start an asparagus bed.
Be sure crowns for planting are dormant and have large,
fleshy, whitish-tan roots without mold or rot.
Soil Preparation
Because an asparagus bed will last many years, have the soil
tested prior to preparation to determine existing nutrients
and obtain fertilizer recommendations (see the MontGuide
Home Garden Soil Testing & Fertilizer Guidelines,
MT200705AG, for a list of soil testing laboratories).
Destroy all perennial weeds by mulching or cultivating.
Then spade or till the soil deeply, working in 50 to 100
pounds of rotted organic matter or compost per 100 square
feet (two to four inches on the bed).
Also apply fresh or highly nitrogenous manure (like
poultry manure) at one fourth that rate (½ to 1 inch). Like
other plants, asparagus needs ample supplies of phosphorus,
potassium, calcium and other minerals, as well as nitrogen.
Planting
In spring, when soil temperatures have reached at least 50°F,
use the trench method to plant or dig individual holes: Dig
your trench 10 inches deep by 10 inches wide with 2-inch
mounds 18 inches apart. Rehydrate crowns by soaking in
tepid water for one or two hours, then spread the roots over
the mounds. Leave 2½ to 3 feet between rows. Or, dig holes
about 6 to 8 inches deep and 10 to 12 inches in diameter.
Place a crown into each hole with the central bud pointing
upward. For either method, fill with about three inches of
topsoil, covering crowns.
As the tips of the young shoots extend above the soil, add
additional soil to the hole. Finish filling the hole when the
tips of the shoots extend above the ground level.
Apply fertilizer at
planting according to
the soil test results.
Most Montana soils
contain adequate
calcium, but acid
soils in the high
mountain valleys and
some sandy soils in
other areas may need
additional calcium.
Follow soil test
recommendations.
Cultivars
Cultivars can be all- or predominantly male. Female stalks
are thicker and produce seeds, while male stalks are more
prolific and smaller in diameter. Rust-resistant varieties are
recommended.
‘Mary Washington’ is the most time-proven cultivar.
It yields well, survives under our conditions, and is rust
resistant. Other cultivars for Montana include the disease
resistant ‘Jersey’ series (including the all-male ‘Knight’
and ‘Giant,’ and the predominantly male ‘Supreme’), the
predominantly male ‘Millennium’ that is adapted to heavier
soils, and ‘Purple Passion and ‘Pacific Purple,’ which are
photo by Dan Spurr
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Montana State University, Bozeman, MT 59717.
beautiful cut on a slant and eaten raw in salads (they lose
their purple color when cooked).
Weed Control
No herbicide should be used in the home asparagus patch.
Some weed control can be done early in the spring before
spears come up by hoeing or by very shallow tilling. Later,
after the cutting season, hoe or cultivate again to destroy
broad-leaved weeds. Pull grassy weeds.
Insect Control
Asparagus beetle. This insect resembles a ladybug but is
considerably more elongate and can defoliate large areas in
a short time. Handpick the insects or use an appropriate
insecticide registered for their control.
Cutworms. Cutworms cut off underground shoots and
feed on tips of new shoots, causing crooked spears. Remove
injured spears. Inspect the soil around the injured plant and
destroy the worm. Placing a ring of wood ashes around plants
can deter cutworms, but don't let the ashes contact green
plant tissue.
Diseases
Asparagus rust. This disease is more likely to be found in
areas with high rainfall and high humidity. Nevertheless, it
does occur in Montana. Small, reddish-yellow spots appear
on the main stem near the ground and on the slender
branches of the stalks that grow up after the cutting season.
Plant resistant cultivars such as 'Mary Washington' or the
‘Jersey’ series. Burn diseased material or otherwise remove
from the garden. Do not compost.
Harvesting
Don’t harvest the first season, and harvest only lightly the
second. The first full harvest begins in the third season after
planting. Harvest time varies by season and area. In an early
spring in warmer areas or at lower elevations, spears may
be ready for harvest by late April. Gardeners in higher areas
in a cool spring might not harvest spears before mid-June.
Harvest can last up to July 1, but not in every area every year.
Spears are ready to cut when they are eight to 10 inches
tall. Cutting too soon reduces yield; cutting too late increases
spear toughness.
Remove the spears by snapping them off at the soil line or
by cutting them with a sharp knife at or just below the soil
line. Don't cut deep enough to damage the crown.
Avoid Over-Harvest
No planting of asparagus will last long if all spears are
removed every season. Cut spears for no more than the first
six weeks. Stop harvesting when the spear diameter becomes
noticeably smaller. Then let all remaining spears grow into
tall plants (“ferns”). As they die back each year, the sugars
produced by these ferns will be reabsorbed into the plant
roots. Take care to not cut them until they are browning, to
assure strong plants for the following year.
Maintaining Established Beds
Fertilizer. Water and minerals used by the plants need
replenishing. Unless the soil is high in organic matter, apply
nitrogen early each spring at the rate of 1 to 2½ pounds of
actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Every three to five
years, apply 2 to 3½ pounds of actual phosphate (P2O5) per
1,000 square feet and work it into the soil between hills. If
the soil is deficient in potash, apply it at the same rate and
time as the phosphate. Have soil tested if the asparagus patch
appears to be declining.
Mulching. Apply an insulating mulch of straw or similar
material to the bed after the soil freezes and remove it in early
spring when danger of severe cold has passed. If not removed,
it will keep the ground cool and delay emergence of the
spears. This is especially important in cooler locations.
Asparagus plants extend roots and crowns horizontally,
making it difficult to maintain the plants in a straight line.
Acknowledgements
The author would like to acknowledge the original author of
this MontGuide, Bob Gough, former Extension Horticulture
Specialist.",
"Growing Asparagus in Wisconsin
Karen Delahaut
Fresh Market Vegetable Program Coordinator
Asparagus (Asparagus officianalis) is a member of the lily family (Liliaceae). It is
a hardy perennial that will yield for up to 40 years or more once the crop is
established. The fern-like foliage grows to about 4-5 feet tall if the young stems
are not cut. The plants are dioecious meaning that male and female flowers are
borne on separate plants. The female plants will produce spears like the male
plants but they will also produce flowers once the plants are allowed to produce
ferns, thereby putting energy into the production of berries that arise from the
female flowers and taking energy away from rejuvenating the crowns. The
production of seed also leads to seedling weeds growing in the asparagus bed
which will crowd the desirable crowns and reduce their vigor as the seedlings will
compete for water, nutrients, and space. This has led, in recent years to the
production of all male varieties of the crop. These all male varieties are much
more vigorous than the older, open pollinated varieties such as Mary Washington
or Martha Washington.
Asparagus is thought to have originated near the Mediterranean Sea and was a
Greek delicacy. Its culture dates back to about 200 B.C. In Greek, the word
asparagus means “stalk” or “shoot”. Asparagus has been grown in America since
the early settlers came from Europe but it was not until the mid-1800s that it was
planted extensively.
Cultivars:
There are both open pollinated hybrids and predominantly male hybrids. Male
plants yield more than females so I’d encourage you to consider planting one of
them. Some cultivars will have resistance to Cercospora leaf spot, crown rot,
Fusarium wilt, and rust. Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight, Jersey Supreme, Jersey
Gem, and Jersey King are all male varieties that yield more than Mary or Martha
Washington. This yield increase can be 1 ½ - 2 times that of traditional cultivars.
These all-male varieties are available from the Jersey Asparagus Company
(www.jerseyasparagus.com).
• Jersey Knight is probably the best for the home gardener and has the best
spear quality.
• Jersey Giant is also a popular home garden variety. It is more tolerant of
the cold Wisconsin climate than Jersey Knight.
• Jersey Supreme is a relatively new variety that is also well suited to colder
climates and will produce spears earlier in the season.
Another unique variety is Purple Passion, a purple variety of asparagus for the
gardener looking for a unique crop. Purple Passion was a new variety in 2004. It
produces a purple spear and has s high sugar content. Purple passion will turn
green when cooked. Keep in mind that this is not an all male variety like the 3
varieties previously listed.
Culture:
Select a site, preferably in full sun, where the plants can remain for years. Deep,
well-drained soils are essential to good asparagus production.
The soil should have at least 2% organic matter and high levels of phosphorus
and potassium before planting. Soil pH should be 6.5-7.5 for best production. Get
a soil test prior to planting and indicate on the form that you are planning on
planting asparagus so recommendations can be made accordingly.
Use transplants of 1-year-old crowns from a reputable dealer that are certified
disease-free. The crowns should be planted in early to mid-spring, depending on
your area. Dig trenches 8 inches deep loosening the soil below and adding
compost to the bottom of the trench. Rows should be 4-6 feet apart and the
plants should be 9-12 inches apart in the row. Place the plants in the trench and
spread out the roots. Cover with 2 inches of soil. Gradually fill in the trench as the
spears begin to emerge. Poor stands result if the plants are covered too deeply
at the beginning. Ridge the soil moderately over the rows after the plants are well
established.
Asparagus plants grow outward from the central crown by fleshy roots called
rhizomes. After 10-15 years the crown and resulting rhizome radius can reach 2
feet or more in diameter.
After the 8 week harvest period – late June in southern Wicsonsin, fertilize with a
complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 to help rejuvenate the crowns that have
been depleted of nutrients during the harvest season. In the fall after the ferns
have yellowed, cut the foliage back to prevent overwintering of the asparagus
beetles and rust in the crop.
Harvest:
Do not harvest the plants until they are well established – generally when they
are 3 years old. Snap or cut spears when they are 8-10 inches tall but before the
tips begin to open. Because asparagus crowns must have a rest period to
rejuvenate before the next crop, stop harvesting when the emerging spears are
about the diameter of a pencil or your little finger.
A unique European production practice used by some market growers is to grow
white asparagus called spargel in Germany. This method includes the exclusion
of light when the spears are emerging. The absence of light inhibits
photosynthesis and thereby the production of chlorophyll which produces the
green color. Using inverted 5 gallon buckets work well in small plantings. The
white spears are more tender and have a milder flavor than the traditional green
spears. Keep in mind that by eliminating the production of chlorophyll, white
asparagus will not have the nutritive value found in its green counterpart.
Pest Problems:
Weeds are a problem in asparagus production. The primary weed problems are
perennial weeds because this is a perennial crop. Avoid planting asparagus in
beds infested with perennial weeds such as Canada thistle, quackgrass, and field
bindweed or eliminate these weeds before planting. If you are plagued with
perennial weeds in existing plantings, you can try using Round-up early in the
spring before the spears emerge or in the fall after you’ve cut back the ferns.
Mulching heavily with organic mulch will prevent the germination of annual weed
seeds. If you plan to use compost as your source of mulch because it will also
add nutrients to the soil, make sure the compost you use has been “hot
composted” to kill any weed or crop seeds that may be present.
Other pest problems include Fusarium wilt which will require you to move the bed
to rejuvenate it and prevent future problems. Fusarium is a soil-borne fungus that
can live in the soil almost indefinitely. It also infects many weed species which
can serve as an alternate host to the disease. It will weaken the crowns thereby
producing smaller spears.
Rust is another disease that plagues asparagus. The ferns of rust-infected plants
will defoliate prematurely or die back altogether so it’s best to plant rust resistant
varieties. In addition to causing fern dieback, rust can also weaken the plant and
predispose it to Fusarium if this fungus is present in the soil. Rust can be
identified by small, yellow or orange spots that first appear on the tips of the
plants. Later in the season, dusty brick-red pustules appear on both the shoots
and the ferns. Rust is most severe in years with heavy rains or high humidity.
The incidence of rust can be reduced by cutting back the ferns in the fall and
burning them so the rust cannot complete its life cycle.
Asparagus beetles are an annual insect pest of asparagus. The twelve spotted
asparagus beetle is more common in Wisconsin than the common asparagus
beetle. Injury first appears early in the spring on the emerging shoots. The
insects feed on the shoots as they develop, causing them to bend in the direction
in which the feeding damage occurs. Once the plant begins to fern, the beetle
populations can increase to numbers that can totally defoliate plants if left
unchecked. Common insecticides used to control asparagus beetles include
Sevin, Dursban and Rotenone. ",
"How to Grow Asparagus
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable and once established can have a productive life of up to 15 years.
The edible Asparagus spears are the young shoots which are produced in Spring. When harvesting for the
season is finished, the shoots are allowed to grow to provide food for the underground root system (the crown).
The shoots grow into attractive fern-like fronds which can reach heights of 1.5-2m under good conditions. In
the winter the shoots die down and are cut at ground level. Growth recommences in late winter-spring when
the spears emerge. Asparagus is frost tolerant and is quite easy to grow. It does well in the Perth metropolitan
area and the South West.
Planting: The prime requirement of Asparagus cultivation is well drained soil and it is best grown in a full sun
position. It is a long term crop which will be in the same spot for years, so choose your site carefully.
When Planting Potted Asparagus Plants: Potted plants can be planted year round. Improve the planting bed
by blending in plenty of Dawson’s Soil Improver to at least a spades depth. Add a sprinkle of Dawson’s All
Purpose Fertiliser or Eco Prime Garden. Potted Asparagus plants are usually seedlings and once planted
should be left to grow for 2-3 years before you commence harvesting.
When Planting Crowns: Asparagus crowns are usually only available in July-August and should be planted
as soon as possible after purchase. Dig a trench 30-40cm deep and 30cm wide, then lay a 10-15cm layer of
Dawson’s soil Improver and Cover this layer with a 5-10cm layer of improved soil. Then make a mound of
soil along the centre of the trench. Crowns are planted top of the mound with roots spread out either side (the
crowns should be placed so that they are about 10cm below the surface soil). Cover the crowns with about 5cm
of soil, then gradually fill to soil level as the plant grows.
Care: Asparagus should be fertilised with Dawson’s All Purpose fertiliser in Spring prior to the spears
emerging and again when you have stopped harvesting spears. Asparagus requires a regular water supply and
in Perth watering will be required from Spring until April-May. The idea being to try to maintain some soil
moisture at all times while the fern is actively growing. To this end the application of a good quality, straw
type surface mulch will greatly assist. In winter the shoots(fern) will start to yellow and die off, so cut the old
shoots off at ground level.
Harvesting: Spears can be harvested when they have grown about 15-25cm above ground level, they should
be cut with a sharp knife just below ground level. No spears are cut during the first season of growth, this
allows the crown to establish itself. In next spring (one year from planting) harvesting should be restricted to
the thickest spears only. In later years you can cut most of the spears that emerge. Remember once spear size
begins to fall off it’s best to allow the shoots to grow to provide food to fuel the crown for the next season.
You need to harvest spears regularly several times a week or even daily as spears emerge very quickly and if
left too long will start to fern out before you get to them. If you’d like to grow white Asparagus, you’ll need to
mound soil up over the rows in late winter to a height of about 30cm and then harvest the spears as soon as the
tips break through the of the surface.
Varieties: Dawson’s sell UC157. Developed by the University of California. Known for very high yields,
UC157 is suitable to growth in warmer areas with mild winters. Smooth green spears, tight tipped, non stringy.
The plant has tall feathery, graceful stems. It is the most commonly grown commercial variety world-wide.
Prepared by Tim Parker. Acknowledgments to P & J Frost in the preparation of this Fact sheet.",
"Growing Asparagus
Asparagus is a good source of vitamins A, C, and minerals and is a highly productive vegetable when grown in
cooler areas. Below is a quick guide for growing asparagus.
Category Directions and Notes
Location • Cool area.
Soil
• Grows well in high pH soils but does not do well if pH is below 6.
• New beds: till in 2-3 lbs of 6-12-12 fertilizer (or similar) per 20 feet of row.
• Established beds: scatter 1-2 lbs of 6-12-12 fertilizer per 20 feet of row before
growth begins in the spring.
Planting
Directions
• Spread a 3” layer of organic matter (manure, rotted sawdust or compost) over the
planned planting area.
• Till or spade to a depth of 10-12” and turn the soil so all organic matter is covered.
After tilling, mark rows 4-6’ apart.
• Dig a furrow 4” wide and 6-12” deep.
• Place the crowns in the furrow, cover with 2-3” of soil and firm the soil around the
roots. Do not fill the entire furrow at once. Plant crowns 6-12” deep in loose soils
and 4-6” in heavier soils. Place crowns 12-14” apart.
• Fill the furrows gradually as the shoots grow. This covers small weeds, and they die
from lack of light. By the end of the first season, the furrow reaches its normal level.
Maintenance
• Asparagus plants like frequent, deep watering. Allow the top 1” of soil to dry before
watering again.
• Control weeds without damaging the spears.
Harvesting
• Harvest spears when they are 4-10” long.
• Cut asparagus spears 1-2” inches below the soil level. At least ½ the length of the
spear should be above the ground. Never cut the spear within 2” of the crown to
avoid damage to the developed buds.
• Harvest asparagus spears from established beds for about 8 weeks. Do not harvest
too soon from a new planting.
• Discontinue harvest when spear diameter becomes less than 3/8”.
• After the last harvest, cut back all top growth. Apply fertilizer and till lightly 1-2”
inches to kill weeds. Cover the bed with a 3” layer of clean straw, compost or other
mulch material, water thoroughly and allow growing the rest of the year. This helps
ensure a good harvest the next year.
Special Notes
• An asparagus planting lasts 15 to 25 years without replanting if it is well cared for
and the climate is suitable.
• Asparagus is grown from 1-year-old plants or ""crowns"". It requires 3 years from the
time the crown is planted until the bed is in full production. Since an asparagus
planting lasts many years, good planting bed preparation is essential.
Varieties • Jersey Giant
Murray’s Info Sheets
P.O. BOX 601, 1525 PORTUGAL COVE ROAD, PORTUGAL COVE, NL, CANADA A1M 3R6
TEL: (709) 895-2800 • FAX: (709) 895-1000 • E-MAIL: murrays@nl.rogers.com • www.murraysgardens.com",
"Growing Asparagus
for more info:
Toll Free 1800 335 508
www.seasol.com.au
When to plant
Asparagus can be grown in all regions, but does best in areas
with long, cold winters and mild summers. Check with your
hardware or garden centre for advice on the suitability of
asparagus to your location.
1. Asparagus can be sown from seed, it is the cheapest
option, but take three to four years from germination
to harvest.
2. For a quicker harvest, asparagus is usually planted in
winter when it is available as a crown, the name given to
the dormant root system.
3. Potted plants are also available from spring to autumn and
are ready to plant directly into a prepared garden bed.
Location
• Once established asparagus can grow and crop for 25 years
or more so it’s ideal to plant them in their own garden bed.
• Plants grow best in a full sun position in soil that holds
moisture well, sheltered from wind.
• Too much shade causes asparagus to become spindly with
fewer and thinner spears.
Soil
Asparagus enjoys well-drained
sandy or loamy soil, with pH of around
6.5 to 7.0. Prepare the soil prior to planting
by digging in well-rotted manure and compost or
apply Seasol Liquid Compost.
Some growers recommend planting asparagus
into a trench with a layer of well-rotted manure in
its base. Cover manure with a 5cm layer of soil to
keep asparagus out of direct contact with manure.
A soil rich in nutrients helps build strong plants
so add Seasol Plant + Soil Booster
(100g per m2
) and a fertiliser such
as PowerFeed Controlled Release
Tomatoes & Vegetables.
 Water in well and let the soil
 rest for a week or two
 if possible.
*Check application rates on product
labels or go to the Seasol website.
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that dies down in winter and regrows each spring.
It is part of its own asparagus family (Asparagaceae) but was formerly considered part of the lily family, which also
includes onions garlic and leeks.
Asparagus is native across much of Europe. The edible part of asparagus is the new shoot known
as a ‘spear’. Left unharvested, it forms clumps of tall, woody, cane-like growth with
ferny leaves. Asparagus spears are low in calories but high in folates,
dietary fibre and vitamins A, C and K. It can be eaten raw,
steamed, or grilled.
2
Planting crowns
(the easiest and most popular)
Planting
potted plants
3
Planting
from seed
1
Second year’s growth
5
Third year’s growth
6
Asparagus harvest
7
First year’s growth
4
LIFE CYCLE OF ASPARAGUS
for more info:
Toll Free 1800 335 508
www.seasol.com.au
*Check application rates on product
labels or go to the Seasol website.
• Plant crowns in winter, burying them in
the base of a 30cm-deep trench.
• Alternatively dig a hole for each crown that’s about
30cm deep and wide enough to accommodate the
crown’s root system.
• Space crowns about 45cm apart then cover with about
5-10cm of soil. As the crown begins to grow, cover it with
more soil until the trench is filled to encourage deep roots.
• Apply a layer of mulch to protect them from cold and
frost and once growth appears water them in with
Seasol or Seasol GOLD for a strong root development
and healthy growth.
2. Planting crowns
• To plant potted plants, simply dig a hole in
well-prepared soil that’s large enough to
accommodate the root system. Plant so the
base of the plant is well covered with soil.
• Make a shallow depression around the plant to capture
run-off and help to keep the plant well watered.
• Water in with Seasol or Seasol GOLD to reduce transplant
shock and aid plant establishment and mulch around the plant.
• Apply a liquid fertiliser such as PowerFeed PRO Series for
Tomatoes & Vegetables every couple of weeks to promote
strong, robust growth and thick stems.
3. Planting potted plants
Growing Asparagus
1. Planting from seed
4. First year’s growth
• Fill a pot or seed tray with potting mix or seed raising mix
and sprinkle with asparagus seeds over the top.
• Cover the seeds with mix and water in with Seasol or
Seasol GOLD for fast germination.
• Pop the the pot or tray in a sheltered position, keep the
soil moist and protect from pests like snails and birds.
• When the seedlings are about 10-12cm high, plant them
in well-prepared soil as above. Take care not to disturb
the roots.
• Every two weeks apply PowerFeed PRO SERIES for
Tomatoes and Vegetables for strong, healthy growth.
• Choose only male asparagus plants for
cultivation (see notes on male and female plants).
• Shoots (spears) appear in spring but don’t plan to eat fresh
asparagus just yet. Leave shoots to grow to help form strong
roots for good future crops.
• Over spring and summer check soil moisture daily and
apply Seasol and PowerFeed PRO Series for Tomatoes &
Vegetables every two weeks for strong, vigorous growth and
to reduce stress from heat and drought.
• Hold off harvesting for the first two years and apply organic
mulch to keep soil cool.
• Keep plants well weeded through summer and apply
PowerFeed Controlled Release for Tomatoes & Vegetables
every 6-8 weeks to ensure strong growth.
for more info:
Toll Free 1800 335 508
www.seasol.com.au
*Check application rates on product
labels or go to the Seasol website.
5. Second year’s growth 6. Third year’s growth
• Plants will start to yellow off in the first
autumn after planting.
• Without harvest, plants produce stems of ferny growth.
By autumn the stems will yellow and begin to die back.
• Stems can be pruned in late autumn as the plants
become dormant.
• If stems are too thin it could be a case of not enough water
or nutrients. Check soil moisture and remove weeds by
topping up with organic mulch ready for
next year’s growth.
Things to watch out for...
Well grown, asparagus has few pests or disease problems.
Problems that can occur include:
• Thin stems These indicate a lack of nutrients or water.
Improve spear quality by applying a complete fertiliser,
adding a mulch of rotted manure and increasing the amount
and frequency of water.
• Poor soil drainage In heavy clay soil grow asparagus
in raised beds to avoid problems with water logging
or root rot.
• Over watering If plants and leaves are yellow it could be a
sign they are being over watered. Refrain from watering and
check soil before applying more.
• At the end of winter start to prepare for
the first spring harvest and the formation of
long spears by hilling soil over the rows.
• Watch for the spears to appear and harvest the thickest.
Leave the rest to mature as ferny growth.
• In cool areas, produce an autumn crop by cutting mature
growth to ground level in late summer.
• Spears appear from August until September (or later in cool
climates) and can be harvested for up to 10 to 12 weeks from
well-established plants.
Growing Asparagus
Male and female plants
• Female plants have thin stems and form green berries that
ripen to red berries in late summer.
• Male plants have thicker stems and don’t form berries. They
are selected for cultivation.
• If asparagus is raised from seed, both male and female
plants will grow. Cull female plants after their first flowering
and allow male plants to grow for a better crop.
7. Asparagus harvest
• Expect to harvest spears every two to
three days from each plant during peak
the peak growing season.
• Use a long, sharp knife to harvest asparagus
spears cutting below ground once the spears protrude
10-15cm above the soil.
• Cut spears each day as they’ll quickly become tall
and woody.
• After harvest, feed with PowerFeed Controlled Release
Plant Food Tomatoes & Vegetables for strong ferny growth
that feeds the crown.
• Keep plants well-watered (especially if summers are dry)
and free of weeds.
• Yellowing leaves in late summer and autumn indicate that
plants are dying back. Cut plants back to ground level.
Regrowth and harvesting will begin again in late winter
and spring.",
"",
"Page 1
© 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents
Growing Asparagus
Rhoda Burrows | Professor & SDSU Extension Horticulture Specialist
David Graper | SDSU Extension Horticulture Specialist & Master Gardener Program Coordinator
gardens
SOUTH DAKOTA STATE UNIVERSITY ®
AGRONOMY, HORTICULTURE & PLANT SCIENCE DEPARTMENT UPDATED FEBRUARY 2019
Many look forward to fresh asparagus each spring.
Once established, this perennial vegetable is relatively
easy to grow; in fact, it often thrives in roadside ditches
or abandoned farmsteads in the higher rainfall areas of
the state. An asparagus bed in good soil can easily last
15 years or longer.
There are a number of asparagus species, but only
one, Asparagus officinalis L., is cultivated for food.
Not only is it low in calories, asparagus is an excellent
source of vitamin A and contains significant amounts
of calcium, phosphorus, riboflavin, and vitamin C as
well. In past centuries, it was sometimes prescribed as
a gentle diuretic and kidney tonic. Edible asparagus is
native to Europe, and has been cultivated for over 2000
years. An ancient Roman author, Cato the Elder, in 200
B.C. wrote detailed directions for growing asparagus
that are close to current recommendations.
In South Dakota, the eastern end of the state and the
Black Hills are two areas where asparagus can be
grown most successfully, but other areas can grow it if
extra attention is paid to watering during dry spells, and
hardy varieties are used.
Climatic Requirements
During the growing season, warm days and cool nights
with low relative humidity are preferred. Asparagus
produces best when temperatures during harvest range
from 78° to 85°F during the day and 55° to 65° at night.
To be productive, the asparagus plant needs a long
rest period (dormancy); this can be met by cold winter
temperatures or a prolonged period of drought. Cultivars
vary in winter hardiness (see below), but there are a
number that will do well in our state.
Site Selection
Asparagus needs full sun for good production. Good
soil drainage is also essential - the highest yields are
obtained on deep sandy loams, since asparagus roots
may extend six feet deep. Heavy soils that form a crust
after rain or irrigation can damage the emerging spears.
A soil pH of 6.5 to 7.0 is best, but asparagus is quite
tolerant of higher pH soils and salinity. The bed or field
should be fairly level to avoid soil erosion, and avoid
low-lying areas subject to late spring frosts that could
delay harvest and reduce yield. The soil should be free
from stones, which can cause crooked spears. The
field should also be free of perennial weeds, which are
difficult to control as there are few herbicides available
for newly planted asparagus. To avoid root and crown
diseases, choose an area that has not been in asparagus
for the last eight years.
Varieties
Mary Washington and Viking are perhaps the two
varieties that have been most readily available to home
growers through mass markets, although newer hybrids
such as “Jersey Giant” are becoming more common.
It is worthwhile to seek out these newer varieties,
such as the male hybrids “Jersey Giant” or the even
higher-yielding “Jersey King.” These hybrids have been
Page 2
© 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents
developed to have greater disease resistance and higher
yield, along with good cold hardiness, and have done
well in trials in North Dakota and Minnesota. A newer
male variety that has greatly out-yielded other varieties
in many northern trials (including Saskatchewan),
and has also done well in heavier soils, is “Guelph
Millennium”. It tends to emerge about a week later
in the spring than other varieties, which can help it to
avoid spring frosts, and the spears stay tight in high
temperatures, so that it maintains good quality over a
range of conditions.
Growers may also want to consider the novel variety
“Purple Passion”, which has performed well in Iowa
trials. It may have special consumer appeal with its
purplish-colored, tender, large-diameter spears.
Avoid varieties bred in California, such as UC 157, as
they are not hardy enough for us.
Plant options
Asparagus production beds are most often established
from 1-yr-old crowns which are purchased or grown
from seed. Direct-seeding is not recommended, but
transplants grown in a greenhouse or protected area can
also be used for planting the permanent bed.
One-year-old crowns (Fig. 1) are more vigorous and
have greater productivity as compared to 2- or 3-year-old
crowns that suffer more root damage during digging,
which may reduce quality. Good-quality crowns weigh
about 1.5 pounds per 10 crowns.
Fig. 1 One-year-old crown.
Growing Crowns
Crowns can be produced from seed in a separate bed
for later transplanting. If producing your own crowns,
choose soil that is well-drained, deep, loose, and light.
Generally, one acre of seedlings will produce enough
crowns for ten acres of asparagus. There are 900-1200
seeds per ounce. One ounce of seed can produce 550
high-quality crowns. You can figure out how many
crowns you need and plant the seed accordingly. For
example:
Area per plant: 4 ft. row spacing x 1.5 ft. between
plants = 6 square feet
Plants per acre: 43,560 (square feet per acre) / 6 ft
per plant = 7,260 plants per acre
To hasten germination, soak the seed for 48 to 96 hours
in warm water before planting; change the water several
times a day to avoid fungal growth. It is also advisable to
use a seed fungicide before planting. Plant seed ½ inch
deep, 2-3 inches apart in rows that are 24-30 inches
apart. Optimal temperatures for germination are 60-85
degrees F.
Cultivate during the growing season to control weeds.
When seedlings are one year old, they may be
transplanted to their permanent location. Dig the crowns
in the spring before the buds begin to grow. Old plant
tops can be mowed if they interfere with the digging. A
modified potato digger or moldboard plow can be used
to lift crowns from larger plantings.
Transplant production
An alternative to planting one-year-old crowns is to
use transplants, which can be grown in a greenhouse.
To do this, seed can be treated as above, but then
seeded into peat pots filled with a good potting media
(not field soil). Plant two seeds per pot, and thin to
one after emergence. Transplants can be started
either in the early spring for setting out after danger of
frost has passed, or in late summer for transplanting
in mid-September. Transplant when seedlings are 10
to 12 weeks old into the permanent bed prepared as
for crowns: Pots should be covered with at least one
inch of soil at the time of planting in the furrows, and
the furrows filled in gradually over the season as with
crowns. If peat pots are used, when planting be sure
none of the pot is exposed above the soil as it can act as
a wick, drying out the plant. A transplant starter fertilizer
solution should be applied at the time of planting.
Planting crowns
Discard any small or badly injured crowns. Sort crowns
according to size. Plant crowns of the same size in a
row to avoid competition for food. If needed, crowns
can be stored at 38°-40°F and 85-90% humidity until
planting. Do not allow them to freeze. To avoid decay,
Page 3
© 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents
the crowns should not have any damp or moist areas on
them during storage. Before planting, dip the crown in a
recommended fungicide solution.
Before planting the crowns, prepare the land so the
soil is free of stumps, rocks and other coarse debris
that might cause crooked spears. Any existing weeds
should be controlled; spraying any perennial weeds
with a glyphosate herbicide (for example, RoundUp
or KleenUp) two to three weeks before planting is
recommended.
Open the planting furrow to a depth of 8-10 inches (8
inches in heavier soils). Position the crowns, upright
with the roots spreading (Fig 2), in the furrow about 8
inches below ground level and then cover with about
two inches of soil. Close spacing may be practiced in
the home garden, but when planting half an acre or
more, space rows 3 to 4 ½ ft with plants 12-18 inches
apart in the row.
Fig. 2 Planting crowns in furrow
As the crowns grow, gradually work the soil toward
the plants during cultivation until the furrow is entirely
filled. Be careful not to bury the ferns. Each cultivation
should add about 2 inches of soil over the crowns.
Approximately three cultivations should cover the
crowns and completely fill the furrow (Fig 3). Shallowplanted crowns often are injured by spring frosts or by
disking and produce smaller spears. Deeply planted
crowns produce larger spears that emerge later in the
spring.
Fig. 3 Young shoots
Fertilizer
Because asparagus may occupy the land for 15-20
years, good soil preparation before planting is important.
If possible, apply 5-10 tons of good farmyard manure
per acre or plow down a green manure crop in the fall.
Otherwise apply 600-1,000 pounds of 8-32-16 per acre
(20 lbs per 1,000 square feet or ½ lb per 10 ft of row)
before planting. A soil test (0-12”) is the best way to
determine fertilizer needs, as some soils may require
only additional nitrogen.
Once the crop comes into production, commercial
growers should test the soil at least every other year
for phosphorus and potassium. Broadcast any needed
fertilizer and then either water in or work into the soil by
shallow cultivation.
The crop will also require about 50 lbs of nitrogen
(about 140 lbs of 35-0-0) per acre each year after
planting. Regardless of the general fertilizer practice, it
is desirable to split the nitrogen application, applying half
of the recommended amount in the early spring before
growth starts and half at the end of the harvest season.
For smaller plantings, apply ½ cup of ammonium nitrate
[35-0-0] per 10 ft row in early spring and again after
harvest. The second application enhances vegetative
growth and carbohydrate accumulation which results
in a higher yield the following year as well as improved
plant vigor to survive the winter.
Page 4
© 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents
Cultivation
Keep the field free of weeds. The spears are less
brittle in the afternoon and cultivation is best done at
that time. Once the plants are established, weeding
problems can be reduced by using herbicides in the
rows. Use a windbreak to shield spears from wind
which can damage spears by blasting the spear with soil
particles, or by retarding growth on the windward side
of the spear, causing them to become crooked or misshapened.
Leave the ferns standing in the field in winter months
to help trap snow, which can help insulate the roots
and crowns from low temperatures. In the early spring
before the shoots develop, cut, and burn the old ferns
(to reduce insects and disease) or disk them into the
soil.
Harvest
Do not harvest the first two years after planting,
and then limit harvest in the third year to 2-4 weeks,
depending on the vigor of the fern the previous season.
Established fields may provide a yield of 2,000 to
4,000 pounds per acre (¾ to 1 pound per foot of row
in a home garden), depending on climate and cultural
practices.
Snap spears by hand or cut 2 inches below ground level,
at about a 45° angle, when they are 6-10 inches tall.
Morning harvest is preferred because the spears then
contain the maximum amount of water and stay fresh
longer.
Lignin fibers make asparagus tough and undesirable.
The tip of the spear has less lignin and the amount
increases toward the bottom. The following practices
can reduce lignin in the spears: Snap asparagus, rather
than cutting at ground level, thus leaving most of the
fiber portion (white portion) of the spear in the field.
During cold weather, harvest shorter spears; the longer
it takes a spear to grow, the more fiber it develops. Do
not harvest very small diameter (thin) spears; they have
more fiber on a weight basis.
Cool spears as quickly as possible after harvest in ice
cold water. Store asparagus at less than 36°F, but do
not allow it to freeze. Avoid water stress by wrapping
asparagus in a wet material or in perforated plastic wrap,
or store upright in a bowl with the stems in water. Do
not store asparagus for more than 7-10 days.
Crooked Spears
Crooked spears generally are the result of dirt clods in
the field, hot dry wind in early spring, or injury due to
insects, frost, disking, or heavy soils. Avoid all these
problems to produce straight, marketable spears.
Irrigation
To help plants become established, apply water at
least for the first two years, if possible. Irrigation is not
essential for established asparagus except in drier years
or areas, but it will increase productivity (spear size
and numbers) and longevity of the planting. Avoiding
drought stress will also increase vigor and decrease risk
of infection by Fusarium, a fungal crown rot.
Male vs. Female Plants
Asparagus is dioecious (male flowers on one plant and
female flowers on another plant). Non-hybrid varieties
will have about 5O% male and 5O% female plants, but
many all-male hybrids are available. Female plants are
less productive and have a shorter life because some
of the plant’s energy is allocated to seed production in
the fall. Male plants produce a larger number of spears,
starting earlier in spring, but they often are thinner.
Female plants produce fewer spears, but they are larger
and are produced later in the season.
Diseases and Problems
Since fusarium root rot and crown rot eventually invade
every planting, cultural methods that maintain the vigor
of the plants will help prolong productivity.
Fusarium root rot: The fungus lives in the soil and
enters the plant through the roots. Plant asparagus in a
field that did not have asparagus for the last eight years,
and dip the crowns in recommended fungicide before
planting. Keep the planting healthy by practicing good
cultural methods.
Rust: Cut and burn the tops in the spring, and use
resistant varieties, such as the Jersey hybrids (Guelph
Millennium is more prone to rust). Fungicides may be
used in commercial plantings.
Feathering: Bracts of the spears are partly spread as a
result of high temperatures.
Planning small-scale commercial production:
Prospective growers should always assess their
potential market before planting, as well as the presence
of other growers nearby. Fresh locally-grown asparagus
Page 5
© 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents
sells out quickly at farmers markets across the state,
and would be a great way to start a CSA season.
Local restaurants may be interested in featuring this
unique vegetable in spring menus. A grower within a
15-minute drive of a population base may also be able
to successfully market as a “pick-your-own,” with about
one acre per 5,000 urban dwellers. Asparagus also may
be harvested and graded according to the specifications
of the local supermarket and sold wholesale to them.
For More Information
• “Fertilizing Gardens in South Dakota” P-00082
https://extension.sdstate.edu/fertilizing-gardenssouth-dakota
SDSU Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer in accordance with the nondiscrimination policies of South Dakota State University, the
South Dakota Board of Regents and the United States Department of Agriculture.
P-00078",
"Reissued 2020-03-01 1 of 2
The University of California prohibits discrimination or harassment of any person in any of its programs or activities. See the complete Nondiscrimination Statement at ucanr.edu.
November 19, 2011 Growing Asparagus
Originally published in
the Contra Costa Times by Chantal Guillemin, UC Master Gardener
Crowns, whips and spears of asparagus...oh my!
SUMMARY
Advance planning and
some patience can
reward the home
gardener with asparagus
for many years.
Site selection and
preparation, cultivar
selection, planting
technique, disease
control, and harvesting
technique are all
important
considerations.
Q: I am planning to grow asparagus this
fall. How do I get started?
A: A long-lived (8 to 15 years), salt and
drought-tolerant vegetable from the lily
family, asparagus has been cultivated for
millennia on seaside dunes along the
Mediterranean and in the British Isles.
California has several asparagus growing
regions including Contra Costa County.
Asparagus is adaptable, yet it has
specific soil, planting, irrigation and
harvest requirements.
Bed Preparation & Planting:
Full sun, sandy soil with a pH range of
6.0 to 7.5, good drainage, no weeds,
temperatures ranging from 65° to 85° F,
and space are prerequisites for
successful home garden asparagus
production. Proper bed preparation and
build-up of organic matter in the soil
begins at least a year prior to planting.
Select an area that is relatively free of
weeds and that drains well such as a
hillside, and condition your soil by
turning in peat moss, leaf mold, straw,
animal and green manures.
Avoid soils with a high water table as
this could lead to a short stand life due
to unhealthy or diseased roots. October
through March is the best time for
planting transplants or crowns. After
applying a little phosphate fertilizer in
the trenches, plant one year old crowns
with buds pointing upward in the
bottom of a 6 to 8 inch deep furrow.
Space crowns 12 inches apart, in rows 4
to 5 feet wide, and cover with 2 to 3
inches of soil. In six weeks, add another
3 inches. Continue to mound the soil
over the plants as they develop to fill in
and form a somewhat raised bed. To
produce enough asparagus for fresh
table use, plant ten crowns for each
family member.
Cultivar Selection:
For an optimum disease-free start, select
year-old field-grown crowns from a
certified grower. In conjunction with the
University of California, California
Asparagus Seed and Transplants, Inc. in
Davis has developed several hybrid
cultivars which include UC 157 F1,
Atlas F1, Apollo, Grande and Purple
ccmg.ucanr.edu November 19, 2011: Growing Asparagus, page 2
<month year>
Reissued 2020-03-01 2 of 2
“With planning,
preparation and
patience, home
gardeners can grow
and enjoy asparagus
for many years.”
Passion. These varieties differ in spear
diameter (measured at the widest point
of the spear), tip tightness, yields and
tolerance to fusarium root rot, rust and
other fungal diseases.
Disease Control & Watering:
Proper sanitation is an important tool in
controlling asparagus fungal diseases.
For prevention, remove the debris of the
previous year’s fern and destroy or
compost it to kill the over-wintering
pathogens. Wide row spacing may also
help to improve air movement and
drying of the fern. Do not plant a second
crop of crowns in an old asparagus bed
because levels of fusarium are already
high in that location. Severity of the
disease can be reduced by starting out
with non-infected one-year old crowns
grown in uncontaminated soil, and
practicing good irrigation management.
Asparagus requires frequent furrow
irrigations in the spring and near the soil
surface at harvest time. Water
applications are cut back in late summer
and early fall to curtail new fern growth
before winter dormancy.
Harvesting & Post-Harvest Care:
The main harvest season is in spring but
some spears may be cut in September
and October. Do not harvest asparagus
the first growing season. Harvesting too
early and too many results in weakened
plants and small spears. The asparagus
plant needs to grow and establish a
healthy crown, requiring all its energy at
first.
The third year after transplanting,
asparagus can be harvested for two
weeks. A full cutting season (60 to 75
days) may begin the fourth year after
planting. Harvest whenever the spears
reach 8 to 10 inches, which, in warm
weather, could be every day. Cut at
ground level or snap the spears, taking
care not to damage the emerging ones.
When the harvest season is finished,
allow spears to mature into energyproducing ferns (foliage). Do not prune
or cut back the ferns as doing this could
jeopardize the yield and quality of next
season’s growth.
Immediate post-harvest care such as
washing and cooling can slow fibrous
development and the loss of natural
sugar, flavor and Vitamin C in asparagus
spears. Whips, the small diameter
spears, are usually tougher than the wide
diameter spears. This is because the
tough fibers are in the skin.
For More Information:
With planning, preparation and
patience, home gardeners can grow and
enjoy asparagus for many years. For
more info on growing asparagus, consult
UC publication 7234, available online at:
https://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/7234.pdf",
"1


Asparagus
Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a member of the Lily Family and is a perennial vegetable
that can thrive in the home garden for 25 years or more when properly cared for.
Because an asparagus bed will last for many years, it is wise to plant only carefully selected,
disease-free roots. Check with your supplier for new varieties.
Soil Preparation:
Asparagus can be grown in a variety of soil types but best results are generally obtained on
well-drained, sandy loam soils. Frost and light freezes injure emerged spears, therefore, locate
the crop in areas that are as frost-free as possible.
Because of the length of time the land is occupied by an asparagus bed, it is very important that
the soil be of high fertility and in good physical condition before the plants are set.
Lime & Fertilizing
Asparagus will not tolerate extreme acidity, and should be grown on soil with a pH range of 6.5
– 7.0. Have your soil tested by the UMass Soil and Tissue Testing Lab
(www.umass.edu/soiltest) and follow the recommendations given. Strongly acid soils should be
limed according to recommendations.

In addition to organic matter and line, 1.2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer should be broadcast per
100 square feet prior to planting.
Natural Fertilizers
Natural fertilizers can be effective when the right choice is made from the many types available.
Planting
Asparagus plants or crowns are grown from seed. However, the home gardener will usually find
it best to grow asparagus from one-year-old crown bought from a reputable grower.
Never use two or three-year-old crowns. Two-year-old crops may have been over-crowded in
the nursery with intertwined roots and are much more subject to injury when dug and sorted.
Therefore, use only one-year-old plants. The crowns should have large, well developed root
systems with large, well developed buds.
Asparagus should be planted with other perennial crops on the north or east side of the garden
so it will not shade other vegetables or low-growing fruits.
Follow these steps for planting asparagus:
- Apply recommended amounts of lime and fertilizer to the asparagus bed.
- Rototill into the soil.
- Make a 6-inch deep, V-shaped furrow.
- Place crowns at the bottom of the furrow with the buds on top and the roots spread out.
2
Space crowns twelve inches apart within the row and allow four to five feet between rows. If
only one asparagus row is planted, allow at least three feet between the asparagus and the
closest other vegetable crop.
- Cover the crowns with one or two inches of soil and firm over the roots.
As soon as the young shoots (spears) appear, carefully add more soil around plants in furrow,
but avoid covering asparagus foliage. When spears grow 10 to 12 inches high cultivate or hoe
beds in order to partially fill the trench and control weeds. Repeat this procedure two or three
more times until the trench is finally filled. The furrow should be filled level by the end of the first
growing season.
Watering
Adequate soil moisture is important during the first growing season. Water thoroughly once a
week until the soil is moistened 8 to 12 inches deep.
After the first growing season, asparagus plants do not require frequent irrigation because of the
deep and extensive root system. They should be watered if long, dry periods occur, however.
Annual Maintenance
For the first and second year after planting do not cut any spears in order to allow the plants to
become well established. Early in the spring of the second growing season, remove the old
stalks and overwintering weeds. Broadcast lime as needed to maintain the proper soil pH.
Before the spears appear, apply 1.2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet and
cultivate lightly into the soil.
In July of the second growing season, sidedress with another 1.2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer
per 20 linear feet of row. Prevent burning the roots by applying it three to four inches away from
the plants.
Remove brush during each succeeding spring before the asparagus emerges and broadcast
lime if needed. At the same time, spread 2.5 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet.
Rake the fertilizer and lime one to two inches into the soil, taking care to avoid damage to the
asparagus crowns.
Weed Control
Weeds shade asparagus, compete for water and nutrients, and reduce yield. Cultivate to control
weeds when the weeds are small, in order to avoid damage to crowns.
Asparagus can always be mulched to control weeds. Use organic materials such as leaves and
straw.
It is important to control weeds right from the start to prevent problems in the future.
Pests
The principal insect pests are cutworms and asparagus beetles. Common disease include
fusarium root-rot and asparagus rot. Avoid fusarium root-rot by planting only disease-free seeds
or crowns and never plant in beds that previously grew asparagus.
Other Problems
Problem: Asparagus tough and pithy
Cause: Insufficient fertilizer; poor soil preparation, low pH; spears are getting to old before
cutting.
3
Problem: Crooked spears
Cause: Injury to buds and immature shoots underground; careless cutting; or cutworms
Problem: Plant vigor declines, spear size decreases, feeder roots are reddish brown color
Cause: Fusarium root-rot
Problem: Tips soft and whitish in color
Cause: Frost or light freeze injury
Harvesting
Asparagus must be grown in a permanent bed for two full growing seasons before harvest
begins. This is necessary to allow the plants to develop an adequate storage root system to
produce spears during the first harvest season and beyond. Any harvesting or damage to the
brush during the first two growing seasons dwarfs the plants and can be reduce yields for the
life of the bed.
A good general rule for length of harvest season is the 2-4-6 week sequence. Harvest for two
weeks the third year the plants are in the garden, four weeks the fourth year, and six weeks the
fifth and following years.
When the first spears emerge in the spring, merely snap off the spears with tight heads, 7 to 10
inches long, leaving the tough stub on the plant. The upper portion that snaps off should be
green and tender. Harvest all spears that come up during the harvest season.
Two to three weeks after beginning harvest, 5 to 6 inches of soil may be carefully ridged over
the row. This lowers the temperature around the crown and increases spear size. The ridge
should be raked level right after the last harvest.
It is best to prepare and use asparagus as soon as possible after harvesting. However,
asparagus will maintain fairly good quality for several days if the spears are kept at 35-40F. To
store, was the spears, place the cut ends in a shallow pan of water and immediately put them in
the refrigerator.
UMass Extension Agriculture and Landscape Program 4/12
UMass Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer, United States Department of Agriculture
cooperating. Contact your local Extension office for information on disability accommodations. Contact the
State Extension Director’s Office if you have concerns related to discrimination, 413-545-4800 or see
www.extension.umass.edu/civilrights/.",
"
3352 N Service Dr.
Red Wing, MN 55066
www.sargentsnursery.com
P: 651-388-3847
E: sargents@sargentsnursery.com
Growing
Asparagus
Resource: UMN Extension
Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis L.) is one of the earliest producing vegetables each spring. It
is dioecious, meaning that there are female and male plants, but only female plants produce
berries. Generally, female plants produce larger spears, and male plants produce a greater
number of smaller diameter, more uniform spears. Most of the newer hybrids, such as Jersey
Giant, are all male plants, producing no seeds.
Asparagus is a perennial plant that comes back from the same expanding root system every
year, and needs the rest period that freezing winters provide. A bed of asparagus can last 15
years or more, so choose the bed site carefully. Choose a fertile, sunny, well-drained site with
good moisture. Late spring frosts can kill emerged spears, so find an area that is not low-lying
or susceptible to frost. Because asparagus plants have deep root systems, avoid areas with
shallow soils or soils prone to water-saturation.
Common varieties are the older Washington series (Mary, Martha, and Waltham), the newer
hybrids such as the Jersey series (Giant, Knight, Prince), and an open-pollinated variety called
Viking KB-3. Although all of these varieties have done well in Minnesota, the Jersey series can
suffer winter kill in northern Minnesota at –30° F if there is inadequate snow cover.
PLANTING
Asparagus can be started from seeds in a nursery bed, and then transplanted to its final
location in the second year. Use seed with a high germination rate, plant seed as soon as soil
is workable, into level ground with sandy soil about one inch deep and spaced about two
inches apart within rows. In the next year, dig crowns in early April before buds start to grow,
and transplant them to the desired location. Direct seeding is not recommended because it
would be difficult to establish a good stand due to slow seed germination and competition from
weeds. Alternatively, purchased crowns can be planted.
Most people plant asparagus from purchased crowns because this is easier and you get a crop
at least one year earlier than if planting seeds. If buying crowns, try to purchase ones that are
one-year old. Older crowns can be damaged during transplanting. Plant crown buds upward in
a trench or furrow, about 12-18 inches apart and 6-8 inches deep. Cover the crowns with 2-3
inches of soil immediately after planting to keep them from drying out, and then continue to
add soil as the shoots emerge, until eventually the furrow is filled by the end of the first growing
season. Asparagus crowns will continue to enlarge both vertically and horizontally over several
years so planting at the appropriate depth is critical. The consequences of planting too
shallowly could result in premature spear emergence in the spring increasing risk of freeze
damage, and winter kill of the crown.
SOIL PH AND FERTILITY
It grows best in soils with pH of 6.5-7.0, and does not tolerate extreme acid soils. Have your
soil tested to determine its pH and whether you need to amend it. It is best to test soil at least
every 3 years and follow test recommendations. You can add some well-rotted manure or
compost, or a garden fertilizer.
In the second and third years after planting, you can incorporate well-rotted manure, compost
or fertilizer in the spring prior to spear development, and again as the soil warms up. Addition
of manure or compost can add micronutrients and organic matter to soil (see Composting and
Mulching). After the planting is established, it is generally unnecessary to add fertilizer until
after harvest because the root system can store large amounts of nutrients.
WATERING
Adequate soil moisture is necessary at planting for good root and fern development. Although
asparagus plants have deep roots, most of the water uptake takes place in the top 6-12 inches
of soil. Asparagus plants will not show signs of drought stress, so use extra care to ensure that
there is adequate water during the growing season.
CONTROLLING WEEDS
Eliminate all perennial weeds before planting crowns. Annual weeds can be managed using
shallow cultivation and by adding 3-4 inches of mulch on top of beds. Do not till soil more than
3-4 inches deep to avoid damaging feeder roots.
HARVESTING
Asparagus needs 3 years to develop a large root system. Spears may be harvested for
two weeks the season after it is planted and up to four weeks the 2nd year. A full harvest
is ok in the 3rd year. Leave the old asparagus ferns until spring before chopping or mowing
them. After spears appear, harvest when they are 6-8 inches long. Snap spears off at the soil
surface. Do not cut the spears because of the danger of damaging neighboring spears not yet
emerged. Allow spears remaining after July 1 to develop into ferns.
COMMON PROBLEMS
Insects
The most common insect pests on asparagus in Minnesota are the common and spotted
asparagus beetle. They primarily damage asparagus by feeding on the spears resulting in
browning and scarring. The feeding can also cause asparagus shoots to bend over into a
shepherd’s crook.
Diseases
Common diseases of asparagus include asparagus crown rot, asparagus rust , and purple
spot. Asparagus rust causes yellow to rusty orange spots to form on asparagus stems after
harvest. These release powdery orange spores that can easily be seen if a white tissue is
rubbed across the infected stem. Purple spot causes sunken purple spots on asparagus
spears, and tan spots with a purple border on mature stems. Plants suffering from crown rot
have poor growth; leaves and stems may yellow and die back. When cut open infected crowns
are brown and decayed.
If rust or purple spot appears in the garden remove and destroy all fronds after the first hard
frost in the fall. Plant new asparagus plants far enough apart so that there is room for good air
circulation around mature plants.",